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^+1 And to add... Look up 'stroker' builds on NASIOC and Legacy Central BBS. There are a # of these around the US. Also, Wiseco makes an oversized piston for the EJ22T Some of the issues w/your build are the pistons, Turbo size and EM (engine management). A 20G is a BIG turbo. People who use it are running a custom built engine - or will be after they blow the ringlands on the stock turbo pistons. The TD04 might work, but still pushing it. You wouldn't want NA pistons in a turbo build. For all the machine work you're planning there's no sense in not going w/forged pistons and better rods. Plus you've got to lower the compression to make decent boost #'s (unless you're running a newer Direct Injection turbo like on the Ford Ecoboost or Hyundai turbocharged engines). I'm not sure what you mean by the "2.5x" ECU?? The X wasn't turbo'd and the XT wasn't 'til '04 and won't work w/your '01. EM is crucial for running a turbo. Esp. on a non-turbo ECU. This means a piggy-back, standalone, or full harness swap from a WRX or similar. I've not read where the stock NA ECU's can be tuned. You can look on the RomRaider forum to see what's been done.... I know we're playing devil's advocate, but I've been thru this more than once and it gets $$ and frustrating when it doesn't work as planned. Seriously consider the fact that your car will be down TWICE as long you think it will take to install of this and COST TWICE as much as you budget. I'd get some Delta Cams and call it good on your Forester or sell it and save up for an XT or WRX. If you want a cheap(er) turbo car, you can buy an older Legay and swap it. Much easier and cheaper. GL, TD

I have a 2004 Impreza TS that had the Check Engine LIght (CEL) on for a P1443 - " EVAP Control System Vent Control Function Problem ". The fix was to replace Purge Valve control solenoid, P/N: 16102AA080 - located under the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine. This part is the same as on a '97 Legacy that I recently had, so it's a common part that Subaru has used for years. And due to the cost, would be worth trying a used one (if you can return it). New runs $90+. This didn't cause the car to run/drive any differently but it did have a related side-effect: When refilling the fuel tank, the car would stumble / Idle poorly / fail to start on the 1st try. This only lasted for 30 seconds and the car started and ran fine otherwise. I did NOT have the refueling issue that causes the gas nozzle to turn off prematurely, which seemed to come up more often with the P1443 code (see attached for diagnosing that issue.) If you get the code, use the Diagnostic tests attached FIRST before spending a dime. Basically, w/the key off, connect the green connectors under the driver's side of the dash, key to ON >>>engine OFF, and ensure all the solenoids involved are clicking and airflow isn't continuous while clicking...the valve should open/close causing the airflow to be interrupted. History (but not a recommend troubleshooting sequence!): I spoke to a Subaru parts supplier that I've used for the last few years and he suggested, after talking to a tech, to replace the Canister Vent Valve also known as the Drain Valve, P/N: 42084FA120. This is in the back behind the passenger rear wheel underneath the car for the 1999-2004 Subaru Impreza (includes the WRX and STi) and Forester. I think it's the same for Legacy and Outback. (Based on other threads, the Canister Vent/Drain valve was integrated into the charcoal canister on '05+ models.) This is a pic of the parts in the EVAP system. The Canister vent valve solenoid/Drain Valve (top of pic next to the cylindrical drain filter) and the pressure control solenoid on the lower right located in back of the car, the Charcoal Canister (underneath everything) and the purge valve control solenoid (the separate part w/the hose) from the intake manifold. After this had no effect I replaced the Charcoal Canister and cleaned out the Drain Filter. This was also a no go. For reference the charcoal canister weighs less than 3 lbs. when new but when diagnosing issues, many techs will replace it if it weighs 4-5 lbs.. Also, if you have a habit of 'topping off' - STOP IT - you're likely back feeding fuel into places it's not supposed to go - such as the charcoal canister. Finally, I got my act together and found a document online and was given one by the Subaru parts dealer (see attached) that recommended using the green diagnostic connectors under the dash (Video ). This cycles all the solenoids, radiator fans, etc on/off to verify that they are @ least getting power. Also Fairtax4me gave me the following good info: I checked that the two in the back - Canister vent valve solenoid/Drain Valve and Pressure Control Solenoid, and then the Purge Valve Control Solenoid @ the intake manifold. The Purge valve wasn't cycling and when I blew thru it, air was able to flow continuously....it was stuck OPEN. I swapped in an extra Purge Valve I had and tested it. As well as cycling on/off, it also turned the air flow on/off as i blew thru it......problem found! I drove the car for 30 minutes and the CEL stayed off, whereas before it would come on w/in 5-10 minutes of cruising on the freeway AND when I put in some fuel it started and ran fine. I'm calling it FIXED....after much frustration. Here's a pic of the Purge Valve disassembled. I can't see anything wrong w/it, but some have indicated they might be able to be fixed???: p1443 diagnosis.pdf

Hi, Please refer to this POST about diagnosing the flashing light codes. I'm betting that the OP has the 16 flashes not 'just a few' as that would be very unusual. The 16 flashes DOES NOT TELL THE CODE only that they are issues w/the transmission and the diagnostic procedure needs to be followed to pull / get the codes from the TCU. GL, TD

Here's the LINK I'm guessing was 'sposed to be in the above post. 'darsdoug' links back to this thread.

HI, Probably too basic, but: The CC worked b4 the work was done correct? (You didn't buy the car to fix and then found the CC doesn't work??) If the horn doesn't work and the Airbag light is on, the roll-connector/clockspring is likely bad and will need replaced to fix it. GL, td

Hi, Subaru is planning on discontinuing the Tribeca, per cars101.com. If you plan on keeping it forever, and can get it for Trade-in value on KBB.com, then it may be worth it. Otherwise, you'll pay too much for a car that will be worth a lot less when you go to sell it....and Yes, I am a Subie fan (I own 3). They don't get very good MPG, among other things...per CR: GL, TD

Hi, I've bought multiple cars on ebay and (keep telling myself) won't again due to the hit-or-miss nature of it. The 'hit' is I've bought @ least 3 cars from back east due to their low cost-even w/shipping. The 'misses' - One had undisclosed body damage, another had piston slap so bad I thought it was rod knock (one of my first Subies), another had low compression, etc. In most of these cases I didn't lose money when I went to resell it, but I certainly didn't get the deal I'd budgeted for. I've actually gone thru eBay's 'refund policy' and got $$ back on 2 of the car deals due to poor descriptions on the Seller's part (and threat of Negative Feedback). It's very important to find all the 'undisclosed' issues as soon as possible, in order to make a claim, if warranted. There are pre-inspection companies that for $100+ will do a 'buyer's inspection'- that may be a good idea - can't tell ya for sure as I never had one done. Usually a link on each ebay listing. So, I've just learned to buy local so I can check it out myself, and avoid the hassles of a long-distance 'relationship'. On the CarFax vs. Auto check, I believe the Carfax will sometimes include maintenance (esp. if done @ a dealer) info that Auto check does not - @ least in the dozen or so reports I've seen over the years. The Carfax will show the dealer/shop's name and what was done, which can be useful if the Seller discards all previous maintenance history that may contain their personal info, due to today's ID Theft concerns. (Side-note: the 'free' V I N c h e c k loophole has been fixed by Auto-check, last I heard.) And I agree that a salvage/rebuilt/etc title isn't always bad, but more and more people are 'getting smart' and pulling a report to know the history. Of course, there are likely a ton of cars that get repaired and are put back on the road w/out any report being filed. TD

A guy w/a sense of humor AND a poet (does he know it?). (((not my ad!!!))) http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/4082701650.html *To the tune of Hot Rod Lincoln* Wife says, boy, you got me to beggin', for you to sell that Outback Wagon. Did you hear the story of the Subaru. Built in '98, it's nowhere new. The facts are true, as you will see, Cause I am selling that Legacy. It's got the two five motor, that's just all stock, Blew a headgasket once, but didnt crack the block. Motor pulled and gasketed it all And a recent radiator, ready for fall. With four titanium plugs and single exhaust And a repaired rearend, that sure did cost. Its got two airbags, but I aint scared. Brakes are good, and tires are 50% fair. Pulled out of Spokane early one day. Headed to the mountain so I could play. We was driving up Chewelah Peak's hill, Passing two wheel drives like their standing still. All of a sudden I began to slide. My friends all thought that we would die. I said "Boys, there is no need to shout!" All four wheels grabbed and straightened us out. This car's the best when it's wintery blind. If you live on a hill, you should keep this in mind. When the heater heats up, man alive I swore it got up to at least 95 I've wound it up once to 86 Had to speed on up to get my fix Friends said "Slow down, I see a cop!" quickly took it down to 60 before I got stopped Now you probably all wonder what else its got. It has AC, that now blows hot Replace the compressor is all you gotta do and it will blow cold, and as good as new! After market stereo stuffed in the console. Some speakers dont work so it wont sound full. I may chase the wires on an open day So the music will be loud when you choose to play. Power steering seems to have a runny nose looks like the reservoir, not from a hose. Simple fix to get the leak to stop Cause on the engine the pump sits right on top. Down a dirt road I felt some chatter Struts are what I gured to be the matter, No time to replace them for I work long days Need to sell this car, for I got bills to pay. Two small dents, I'll tell you where they're at Left hood and fender, where a snowplow sat Also has scratches that may buff out again its not perfect without a doubt. 193,000 miles on the odometer Starts right up with a quiet purr. I need to buy a truck to keep my wife from begging To please try and sell that Out.... Back.... Wagon.

Please be aware that the 2.5 GT has a different engine - turbocharged - that utilizes a different exhaust, ECU (computer), and other parts. It's a DOHC vs. the SOHC NA engine, too. So, many of the non-engine components will swap, but not the engine stuff. If you want more power, your best bet is to find a low mileage GT ('05-'11 (?)) - ensure you get a compression/leak down test!! - then you'll have access to more power options if the stock engine isn't enough. The power upgrade options on non-turbo Subarus are generally not worth the modest gains you'll get for your $$. Go spend some time on the LegacyGT.com site or http://www.sl-i.net/, too. They'll have more performance ideas. GL, Td

Hi, If the POWER light is on that points to / indicates a transmission related issue, too. If the POWER light flashes at start-up that means it's throwing a code - similar to the 'CEL/Check engine light', which can be retrieved using this INFO. And if it's running that bad, the CEL is likely on and those codes can be checked using this INFO. Gl, Td

Hi, I'd do a compression and leak down test on your engine....just to check its 'health'. The EJ2xx engines are known for breaking ringlands w/higher miles. If you want info on HP/Torque, I'd go over to NASIOC.com to see what Yanks are getting out of their EJ205/207 engines. Some are putting BIG turbos and injectors on their cars and making impressive #'s. The US uses Wheel HP/Torque, not Crank...so don't be surprised to see lower numbers in comparison to the UK. GL, TD

I'm going to play the devil's advocate and tell you to keep looking. The HG repair is good to know, but what is unknown is how long it was run w/the issue and if it was ever overheated...overheating can fry the rod bearings and you'll end up w/a rod thru the block. The early Foresters were good cars, but they had their share of issues, and if you want to keep your friend, I wouldn't put them in this car....go over to Subaruforester.org and spend some time time looking thru their forums. Wheel bearings, misfires, are just some of the notable issues...and you're in the 'rust belt' so could be extra issues related to corrosion. And it's been in an accident - PM me for the 'AutoCheck' (like carfax) if needed. TD

And the SOHC intake manifolds (IM) are all interchangeable from the EJ18 and EJ22, AFAIK. Another point...I wonder if the EJ18's EGR is the same as the EJ22's? The EJ18 were mostly OBD1 and the EJ22 EGR are ALL OBD2/OBDII, and the the OBD2 ECU's may not like the older OBD1's EGR sensor/wiring/etc. Anyone know? Edit: My 'info-gathering' suggests that the '96+ OBD2 EJ18's did NOT have EGR as they were only used w/the 5-speed transmission -just like (most) EJ22's. There are NO OBD2 EJ18 Intake Manifolds w/EGR thru the '97 model year. Td

Thanks...added to original post.

Thanks! Yep...just cut it, loosen nut @ EGR Valve, swivel towards the IAC hose (if needed), tighten nut, clamp a hose on it, and T into the IAC. Eliminates the need for the 'fancy' fitting and saves a few $$. TD

This works w/all the non-EGR EJ22's (most manual cars from '95-98, and any '90-94 EJ22) and should work on the non-EGR JDM EJ25's, too, and doesn't require drilling/tapping the driver's-side cylinder head. (You'll need to get a single-port exhaust header/y-pipe for the '96-'98 EJ22.) BUT REQUIRES an EGR-equipped intake manifold ('95-98) from another EJ22. EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve Edit: Also, the EJ18 from the Impreza should work. (Thanks to Matt167 for the reminder.) But be aware that it gives up 50Hp/Torque to the EJ25. This modification eliminates the EGR pipe that originally attaches to the EGR valve on the IM and the driver's side cylinder head. See pic (from EJ25, but same idea on EJ22): This REQUIRES an EGR-equipped intake manifold ('95-98), but changing the intake manifold (IM) isn't that tough, esp. w/the engine out (remember - the EJ22 SOHC and '96-'99 DOHC use different IM's- not interchangeable!). I don't know of anyone that's successfully bypassed the EGR valve by using a resistor or any other electrical modification. I've put over 2K miles on this and not had an issue. NO CEL/Check Engine Light. Car's MPG is still the same. Installation info: Overview of what I did: I ran a hose from the EGR valve and T'd into the IAC hose so the EGR valve sees flow...it doesn't care where it's from apparently. For the EGR valve connection, I found 2 fittings @ the ACE hardware store that fit together. I believe it's 3/4 that screws into the EGR valve on the IM, then a 1/4 barbed fitting. Put some thread tape on to seal it...it screwed in tight w/out any issues: I then ran short piece of PCV hose into a 90° elbow. PCV hose is same ID as the breather hose on the valve covers. Here's the EGR-side installed: From the elbow I ran another piece of PCV hose to a reducer fitting w/a short piece of PCV hose from the T-fitting in the IAC hose, as the IAC hose has a larger ID than the PCV hose I used. Final installation: So far, I've not had a CEL and car runs the same as before. (Don't tap into the breather hoses as you'll have blue smoke out the tailpipe! ) EDIT: I did this same mod on my '96 Legacy (bought 8/2015) when I used the EJ22T heads (no EGR port), and on 10/25/16 I got a P0400 EGR code. I cleared it and it came back next time I drove the car. I replaced the BPT - back pressure transducer - that sits on top of the EGR valve and has 4 vacuum lines connected - 3 on top; 1 underneath. No codes after a week's worth of driving. I used a TOYOTA part that I PullandSaved months/years ago. I guessed this was the issue, and it takes about a minute to swap it out. Thanks again for the input from everyone on here and to member 987687 for the idea. Td

Just to clarify, you're referring to interchange between the '95-99 2.2 and 2.5 ONLY, correct? The earlier '90-'91 2.2's had gray injectors (Automatic trans ??) and they've been shown by Legacy777 and others to specifically run best w/the matching ECU for that year and model. The ECU can only compensate for small differences in flow rates. Putting in '91-'94 pink turbo injectors (360cc) likely won't work. And the higher flow STi injectors (525cc) will likely flood the cylinders and could hydro-lock the engine, as 'ivans' noted. If putting in bigger injectors, tuning is required to take advantage of the extra fuel. TD

Hi, Welcome to the USMB. Spark plugs need to be NGK's BK6RE-11. And as noted above OEM/NGK wires are best. It definitely sounds like it's not 'hitting on all cylinders' below 2K RPM. Valve train is self-adjusting hydraulic, and 155K isn't much on an EJ22. Also, is the CEL light on? You can 'pull the codes' yourself - HERE. Lastly, I'd check the timing. You can look on here or on the Legacy Central bbs for how to verify timing belt is installed correctly. TD

Here is some light reading on boosting your '98 Foz. Also has some suspension info. GL, Td

Hi, Those are slotted/drilled rotors, it appears. If so, they may be from a newer WRX, etc. and won't fit under the 15" wheels on the front - rears should be OK. They don't look too big in the pics, but b4 buying 15" wheels/tires I'd pull the rotor off and measure its diameter to make sure. 10.7" on the '96-'00 OB's 11.4" '01-'04 OB, '02-'05 WRX GL, Td

www .acraauto .com/vehicle_display_carfax.php?vin= JF1GD67696G509333&sid=5081645 remove spaces The V I N isn't always the last # in the URLs that will work. I don't filter by 'last 24 hours' and get 10+ pages of results.

Used it yesterday. If the 1st post's instructions are followed, it still works. But I did have to look thru more Google results to get one that did work.

This doesn't address the issue if you wanted to use an EJ22 w/a non-EGR intake manifold (IM), but changing the intake manifold isn't that tough, esp. w/the engine out. I found 2 fittings @ the ACE hardware store that fit together. I believe it's 3/4 that screws into the EGR valve on the IM, then a 1/4 barbed fitting. Put some thread tape on to seal it...it screwed in tight w/out any issues: And installed: I used the IAC hose as the source for the EGR. So far, I've not had a CEL and car runs the same as before. (Don't use the breather hoses as you'll have blue smoke out the tailpipe! ) Thanks again for the input from everyone on here and to 987687 for the idea. Td

www .magicmotors51 .com /report%20for%20VIN%201LNHM82W71Y612637.html remove spaces.

As Gary suggested the Cars101.com will tell you what you're after. The '93-96 was the 1st iteration of the Impreza - coupe/sedan/wagon. The Outback Sport (OBS) was a '95 model initially, and was the same as the wagon. The wagon was a 'sport wagon', too, but not an OUTBACK...just to confuse things a little. In '97 they made some minor changes to the front end and added the hood scoop on the OBS. I believe the same basic body style lasted thru 2001 in the US. I currently have a '96 OBS and a '96 LX sport wagon, and they are the same except for a few odds and ends: 2 tone paint (lower gray) Outback cloth Special wheel covers (hubcaps) Roof rack Mud flaps Rear bumper protector Cargo area plastic mat with tie-down hooks Td