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Everything posted by wtdash
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The issue appears to be Impreza and Legacy use different AC compressors. Looking on opposedforces.com to compare. I moved all the '96 Impreza stuff to the '97 Legacy block and the P/S is fine, but the AC isn't installed correctly....I'm 99% sure that bottom bracket mount is different,too....Look @ this pic for a '96 vs. the one for the '97. As the pics show, the AC compressor, main bracket and small bottom bracket are not the same between '96 and '97. I have all the '96 parts shown,but only the '97 Alt/AC bracket (#1 in pic above and 2nd pic below.) vs. the '97 (same as in my 1st post): The differences in both the Alt/AC main bracket - #9 in pic - are different than corresponding parts above. The '96 bottom bracket for the AC uses 14mm bolts.
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Thanks for the replies, but sorry i wasn't clear. I've updated the original Post. On further inspection, It appears I need a '97 AC compressor and bottom bracket (#13 in pic) to make this work like the factory setup. Right now I have the '96 Alt/AC bracket w/the '96 AC compressor and alternator attached, w/OUT the bottom bracket piece - just one bottom bolt installed. It doesn't look like it's going anywhere, but there's gotta be a reason Subaru put that extra bottom bracket on there. Td
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Quick question/summary: What Alternator/AC bracket(s) and accessories do I need from a '97 EJ22 to work on my '96 Impreza? Here's what I've tried: 1. '97 vertical bracket (#1 below): Works w/the '96 Alt but not the AC compressor - the top 2 bolts don't line up. 2. '96 Vertical bracket: Works w/'96 Alt and the top 2 bolts of AC will bolt, but not the bottom piece. I have this installed w/just one bottom bolt - w/out the triangle piece. -Car is a '96 Impreza, automatic, that had a dead EJ22 due the PO running it out of oil (about the only way to kill the EJ22 from what I've read). -Since it was an AT, it has the EGR. -I found a '97 EJ22 from a Legacy - complete engine - block/heads/intake manifold (IM)- but no EGR - (NOTE: IT HAD a Flex plate- not a flywheel.) -Intention was to swap the IM from the '96 to the '97 and put in an EGR port on the '97 head. -I tapped the head on the '97 - not too tough thanks to this POST (other than it was hard to find a 3/8" shank 9/16" drill bit - ended up buying a 1/2" drill). -The '97 came w/no alternator or AC compressor (as expected), but did have the big vertical bracket that the Alternator and AC bolt onto..... BUT the '97 bracket is not compatible w/my '96 AC compressor, although the alternator would fit. The top of the bracket on the '97 is curved slightly and won't allow the '96 compressor to bolt up. When I use the '96 bracket the bottom triangle shaped piece doesn't fit. Here's a visual for the '97 parts- I'm referring to #1 and #13: Before I go buying parts, I just wanted to see if I'm making this too hard! Thanks, Td
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The EJ20's had more power/more boost/bigger turbos as they also had intercoolers - the EJ22T never came w/an IC. All '91-94 Turbo models had a 3.9 FD ratio - both Autos and 5-speeds. The '92-94 NA/non-turbos were also 3.9. ONLY the '91 had the rear VLSD - none of the '92-94 years did. The Turbo trans was stronger - more clutches,etc. to handle the power. Rebuilding it won't be cheap, but if you do, put a trans cooler on it and it'll last longer. Doing a 5-speed swap is not that hard, depending on your experience. Read up on it HERE. If you've not done it yet, you NEED to check out the Legacy Central site. It specializes in the '89-94 Legacy model and has a ton of turbo info, too. TD
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This one STILL Works. Looks legit: Event date Location Odometer reading Data Source Details 10/10/1997 LANCASTER, PA Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL 05/13/1999 LANCASTER, PA 16,819 Motor Vehicle Dept. TITLE (Title #:50314506) 09/18/2001 LANCASTER, PA Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL 09/20/2002 LANCASTER, PA Motor Vehicle Dept. TITLE (Title #:50314506) 09/11/2009 LANCASTER, PA Motor Vehicle Dept. REGISTRATION EVENT/RENEWAL 10/09/2012 PA 51,998 Auto Auction REPORTED AT AUTO AUCTION GL, Td
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Hi, If you can find a new one (limited supply per cars101.com), and you plan on keeping the car for 5+ years then do it. Buying the manual isn't the best option for MPG, as the CVT is better: 2013 MPG(cars101.com): 4 door sedan manual transmission- city/highway 25/34 , combined 28mpg 5 door manual transmission- city/highway 25/33, combined 28mpg 4 and 5 door CVT 27/36, combined 30mpg The older models w/ the 2.5 did have more HP/Torque, but you stated that didn't matter much. Edit: If the body isn't rusted, the trans is still good and you can find a local mechanic to install it, just buy another EJ22/2.2 for the Legacy.....shouldn't cost more than $1500 installed. Read up on here about the differences in '95-98 EJ22....you could even get by w/a '90-94, if you don't need EGR. But if you're ready for a new car, the Impreza's a good choice. GL, Td
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GD is 100% correct on the TT idea. Many have done the EJ22T/EJ20T swap using a WRX (re)harness or other ECU tuning method (piggy back/stand-alone ECU, etc.) to Subaru's during the Subaru USA's 'non-turbo era' of '95-'02. Read this AMAZING thread on a Legacy GT transformation for inspiration and ideas, which is very similar to a '96. There are many more....remember the Impreza shares many of its parts w/the Legacy and RS25.com is another good resource. Td
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Anyone want to get a FREE VIN check?
wtdash replied to Idasho's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
HI, Did you follow the directions on the 1st page? You can't go directly to the website for Carf a x/Auto c h eck for this for free... you must use the directions. PM me your VIN and I'll check it....also, not sure this works for cars not registered in the USA. Td -
Anyone want to get a FREE VIN check?
wtdash replied to Idasho's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Cool...and still works. Thanks Neighbor -
Sorta/kinda related. My '95 Legacy L (same engine/trans as yours) had a bit of torque bind, so I had it flushed. Two days later I lost Reverse....and it never returned. As this was b4 I got into my own repairs I had it rebuilt for $900 -they just fixed the reverse clutches (?) and it drove fine 'til I sold it a couple of months later. I'd find a lower mileage 4EAT from a '95-98(?) Legacy L/LS to swap in-they have the 4.11 final drive ratio. The '96-99 Legacy Outback were different ratio- 4.44. GL, TD
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Getting stale, but since I just saw this.... Something to answer one of the initial questions, maybe, regarding a socket in the EJ22T ECU. This is/was the ill-fated Revtronix chip that I was one of the initial buyers/guinea pigs for - w/a TD04 and 440cc's I made 50% more power: The cable allowed 2 modes that could be switched. IIRC, recommended to turn of the car to switch modes- Power 16.5 psi and Normal 14 psi. Mike, the creator of the chip, had to carry an EEPROM (?) programmer w/him to recalibrate the chip: pull it, change the settings, replace, test. He was supposedly working on a tunable chip, but he disappeared over 2 years ago....never heard from him again. There's more info on Legacy Central. There is the Revscan software avl (I have a copy somewhere) that allowed datalogging AND w/the chip installed, the fuel tables could be modified and Codes reset via a cable connected to the SSM. I 'think' the Revscan worked on the un-chipped ECU, too??? But can't recall. I do NOT understand the software-side of this (although I'm supposedly an 'IT Professional') and tuning my Forester project w/a Greddy EMU did not go well. For Torxxx, the SSM interface on the older Legacy (pre-OBD2 connector) is a limiting factor, and using a USB-Serial adapter or straight Serial may be the only viable to way to 'get in'. FWIW, I also ran the Rob Tuned EJ20G ECU on the same car - more info HERE, if you're bored. Td
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I'd only suspect the replaced parts if you have a CEL, ABS or other light on. You searched/asked over on the SubaruOutback.org site? I just read thru the LGT thread offered up by Brus and it stated that some people had success w/the ECU reflash. You could fudge and state your CC is stopping when asking the dealer for a reflash, which seems to be the more common or @ least more readily fixed by the reflash. If you don't get anywhere asking specifically for this w/the local service mgr, I'd put in a call/email to SoA and 'nicely' push for getting the reflash....it may cost you $85 or if you're regular customer (maintenance or otherwise) they may split the cost w/you. I'd also be calling other dealers (gotta be more than 1 in St. Louis??). What trans? If yours is the MT, I'd replace your Neutral sensor, too, as noted. Also, have you tried to reset your ECU? Read on here/line how to do that....if you have an alarm or security code on your stereo/head unit, you'll want to get info on resetting those b4 'pulling the plug'. After the reset, see if the cruise is any better initially. GL, TD