wtdash

Getting stale, but since I just saw this.... Something to answer one of the initial questions, maybe, regarding a socket in the EJ22T ECU. This is/was the ill-fated Revtronix chip that I was one of the initial buyers/guinea pigs for - w/a TD04 and 440cc's I made 50% more power: The cable allowed 2 modes that could be switched. IIRC, recommended to turn of the car to switch modes- Power 16.5 psi and Normal 14 psi. Mike, the creator of the chip, had to carry an EEPROM (?) programmer w/him to recalibrate the chip: pull it, change the settings, replace, test. He was supposedly working on a tunable chip, but he disappeared over 2 years ago....never heard from him again. There's more info on Legacy Central. There is the Revscan software avl (I have a copy somewhere) that allowed datalogging AND w/the chip installed, the fuel tables could be modified and Codes reset via a cable connected to the SSM. I 'think' the Revscan worked on the un-chipped ECU, too??? But can't recall. I do NOT understand the software-side of this (although I'm supposedly an 'IT Professional') and tuning my Forester project w/a Greddy EMU did not go well. For Torxxx, the SSM interface on the older Legacy (pre-OBD2 connector) is a limiting factor, and using a USB-Serial adapter or straight Serial may be the only viable to way to 'get in'. FWIW, I also ran the Rob Tuned EJ20G ECU on the same car - more info HERE, if you're bored. Td

Shawn, I thought this too, but he was going 'backwards' and they will fit....unless they were OB tires - 205-70R-15. They won't fit under the strut spring perches. TD

Good point....I was wondering that too.....if the tire dealer 'sold the stock tire size' they didn't look up the year.... Td

I'd only suspect the replaced parts if you have a CEL, ABS or other light on. You searched/asked over on the SubaruOutback.org site? I just read thru the LGT thread offered up by Brus and it stated that some people had success w/the ECU reflash. You could fudge and state your CC is stopping when asking the dealer for a reflash, which seems to be the more common or @ least more readily fixed by the reflash. If you don't get anywhere asking specifically for this w/the local service mgr, I'd put in a call/email to SoA and 'nicely' push for getting the reflash....it may cost you $85 or if you're regular customer (maintenance or otherwise) they may split the cost w/you. I'd also be calling other dealers (gotta be more than 1 in St. Louis??). What trans? If yours is the MT, I'd replace your Neutral sensor, too, as noted. Also, have you tried to reset your ECU? Read on here/line how to do that....if you have an alarm or security code on your stereo/head unit, you'll want to get info on resetting those b4 'pulling the plug'. After the reset, see if the cruise is any better initially. GL, TD

'95 is the the legacy w/the 'trim'; '96 got the body lift, suspension and 205/70R-15's. '95 PICS HERE.

Gloyale, your PM is full.

Just for future reference, the soon to be dropped Tribeca is also 5x114. Td

Huh...no responses.... My .02 is the cable is worn out and is stretched...that's why adjusting helps. A new cable isn't that expensive or hard to replace, IIRC. I put in a new one when I did my AT>>5-speed swap on my '90 Legacy. GL, TD

ECU's are the same for manual and auto 'til '99 or '00, I believe. I know my '98 Forester's was. There is AT/MT tranmssion ID pin, which tells the ECU if a TCU/TCM is connected....but no wiring changes are needed when doing the swap. See attached.

Hi, If your brother nor you ever 'burped' the cooling system do a search on here on 'how to' and do it....may need some coolant/anti-freeze. But, yes, check your thermostat 1st otherwise you're @ risk of overheating issues. You'll need to drain the system and re-burp it to change it out. Afterwards, let the car idle 'til warm where the temp gauge should be just below 1/2. Go for a drive and find a hill or just drive it hard - LEGALLY - for 10-15 minutes, and see if the gauge budges @ all - it shouldn't move. I have read about people who have a car that only overheats after driving for longer distances - 50 miles - but that's usually on the 2.5's (yours is a 2.2/EJ22), which have their own headgasket issues. You can also check your overflow tank for oily residue and bubbles (after it's warmed up from driving), which indicates a head gasket issue. Td

Hi, What does 'OES' mean? Thanks Td

Legacy? Go check out Legacy Central. there is a 'sticky' under the Suspension category. But the fronts will work 'as is'. The rears will need top hats @ least as the '90-91 had different bolt patterns...but the springs may be tapered and not fit your Legacy top hats. You'll likely have the 'saggy butt' issue on the rear, too. GL, Td

Heads up - this was an 8-year old post..... Td

I believe that's what GD was referring to: I'd also be looking for leaks - likely around the turbo inlet. They tear where the hose clamps on the turbo. If you're getting un-metered air into the engine, it could cause issues. Also, the coil on plug (CoP) connectors were an issue on older WRX/STi models (EJ20G)...I'd look it up on NASIOC to see if they're still a failure point. The connector cracks and causes misfires, IIRC. Are you getting the CEL on when the 'bucking' occurs? That would help diagnose, too. Some auto parts stores read codes for free (Autozone). GL, Td

Well...I sit (in the corner) corrected. I'll trust your and Shawn's mechanics' experience. And never heard/read about the Sedona doors...that's not cool @ all. Td

Tangent Thread Hi-jack: Maybe 10 years ago, but the last 5 years both models are much better and if you read that 'leading consumer magazine' they are actually very competitive - a Hyundai is/was the top pick in the compact sedan category, IIRC. Back to your CVT discussion.

Hi, Always curious about these New>>>Old 4EAT swaps. What TCU are you using on your SVX? The 2 trans connectors must be the same, but I've read the wiring is different. If the '98>>>'91 works let us know one way or another. Thanks, Td

Can you post a pic? I know it's a PITA but may help on getting it out. Td

The car must have a tune to run the Pink injectors - 565cc vs 440cc stockers. I'd agree on getting another stock TD04 and run it....that's actually good news in that you don't need more tuning. IF it indeed has the stock turbo...... BUT I'm not sure why they'd put Pinks and Cobb exhaust w/out a bigger turbo??? - Is that include a Cobb downpipe? There's the Turbo>>Downpipe>>Mid-pipe>>Axle-back>>Muffler. A 3" TBE (turbo-back exhaust) could include an aftermarket bell mouth downpipe (with or w/out catalytic converter). I'd guess it does have the Cobb DP (downpipe) based on the other mods..... Td

1. Please clarify.. You stated: Is that: - turbo -pipes (exhaust??) - XS BOV - Pink Injectors Pink injectors are probably STi 565cc injectors, from an JDM STi (Called JDM since they were only avl. on Japanese Domestic Models). Even though WRX and STi's are built in Japan, cars have different components depending on where they are being sold - Japan, Australia, Europe, USA, etc. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 2.How do you know it's a bigger turbo? Better off to buy a USED lower mileage TD04 from NASIOC or Ebay. GET A REAL SUBARU turbo - not a 'knock-off' or you'll likely be buying another one in less than 10K miles. Guess how I know??? You MUST get a TD04 to be stock.You cannot just swap turbos and expect the car to run correctly,unless you use the exact same model of turbo that's currently installed. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 3. Also, if you do have something bigger on there now, it's VERY likely you'll need to get your ECU re-tuned. In other words, your ECU/Computer is setup to run the leaking turbo you have now, and will not run correctly w/a TD04. Do you know what kind of tune is on the car? There are Cobb Accessport, Opensource, and other possibilities. And they'll all cost money to tune, unless you have the knowledge to learn how to use RomRaider and flash (tune) it yourself. Do you know the previous owner??? Where did you buy the car??? IF you knew who/what/where/how/etc it'll save you a LOT of grief figuring out the tune on the car. GL, Td

Should .........LINK.......

Hi, As mentioned in other posts, opposedforces.com is a great resource for this info. Yes, they are both 4.11. Choose your model>>Year>>Engine (choices can be a bit confusing)>>etc and under the TRAIN heading look for "Gear set-hypoid", which shows the FD ratio. Go back to Manual Transmission and choose the Trans Assembly category and under the Supplement heading you'll get the Trans ID which should match what is on your trans. I've noticed that many Trans ID's don't match between models, but the transmissions ARE interchangeable. And you can use a transmission from a '96 - 1999, as long is it's from an Outback/GT/LSi that had the 2.5 (the 2.2 used a 3.90, I believe). Newer models will work, too, but not sure on what years. In '99 Subaru went to the different bellhousing w/more bolt holes (w/the Phase 2 block), but the older trans will still bolt up just fine. BTW, I 'think' the 5th gear ratio on the Legacy OUTBACK model is different than the Forester. There is/was a Subaru transmission chart on the 'Net w/that info....5th on the Outback is higher RPM @ a given speed, IIRC. TD

Thanks GD and CNY. The missing clip makes sense - however I don't know 'where' this clip goes. Is it listed in this pic of the axle - maybe part of #15? There IS a metal band still on the rubber boot - it has the proprietary/OEM-style connector - like #7 above. I may just put back together and see how it holds w/a hose clamp? DIY LINK on RS25.com

2004 Forester 4EAT Auto trans. -Replacing front strut and when installing the new one the hub flopped outward and the rubber boot came off the inner CV joint and grease leaked out. -Can I just put some more grease back in, push it back on, put a hose clamp on it and run it? Or is it 'bad' since it came loose? Here is a pic of what came loose (not my car). The top piece -bearings - was pulled out of the bottom housing. Thanks, TD

Hi, As GD stated you need to match the turbo to what you have to ensure your tune still works. But for $150-200 you can't buy anything more than the original stock TD04 - over on NASIOC. VF39 and bigger are $300+. GL, TD