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What are the codes ? Common issue is a cracked Knock Sensor, esp. on the <'95 models.

I used Evoscan on a '90 I turbo-swapped running both a '92 SS ECU and and an early EJ20G with a RobTune. Also, used it on my '96 Legacy NA-T, which still has the SSM connectors. I'd focus on getting the cable to work...sounds like that's your first hurdle. Post I found on NASIOC, but not sure how useful it is. Here are the parameters I used:

Thanks GD. I had the Cruise and a one-way valve (so the MAP wouldn't code in boost) in-line. Removed them both and back to stock and runs better and no Code. EM: Wiring sux and unless there's a 'plugNpray' option, it's not worth it (to me @ least) to go stand-alone. I had a Greddy EMU on this same Foz and had two tuners fail to tune it, so I gave up and removed it. If I keep the boost under about 8PSI and install my Vortech, it should be OK from what others have done.

Edit: I fixed the P0400 code after following GD's advice to check the vacuum hoses. I had some non-stock connections and one-way valve going to the pass. side pressure MAP sensor (so the MAP wouldn't 'see' positive pressure under boost). Fixed the stutter / stumble - Possible cause of stutter / stumble issues: Fuel injectors tested and cleaned. One was sticking a bit...but the shop thought it would have shown up during idle,too, not just during accel. The IAC / Idle air control valve has 3 bolts in the corners. Upper two are longer than the one on the bottom right corner. I noted that bottom was tight....but was too long and likely contributed to a vacuum leak???? '98 Forester with P0400 code: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow -Running an EJ22E block with EJ25D heads. Turbocharged (7 PSI). Stock ECU/ECM. (I've done this 2 times previously with NO issues.) - Engine stutter/stumbles until I get over 3K RPM. Cruises at 65 and idles just fine. What Causes the Stutter/STumble???? - Car seems to run rich? Black residue coming out of tail pipe. - Checked injectors' resistance - OK; new fuel filter; tune-up is current. What I've done so far: - Replaced EGR valve, BPT (common cause), and EGR solenoid from a used working IM. - Cleaned out the hard lines/ pipes. - Checked vacuum lines. At this point I just want to figure out What Causes the Stutter/STumble???? Thanks

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Finish up this thread. Everyone gets a Pleiades star cluster for naming the condenser as the cause. Replaced with a new one, charged it up and the cold air is back. For future reference, I found out during the diagnostic phase that I could jumper the connector at the AC Dryer to cycle the Compressor's clutch. I'd also read that connecting the green diagnostic connectors under the dash would cycle the clutch but that didn't work on my '98 Forester. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. I'll give the condenser some attention after the holiday (and the heat!) TD

AC Issue: The AC on my '98 Forester is not working. I changed the common failure point where the O-rings are on the low and high side pipes that connect to the compressor. (This has fixed every other Subie I've had. ) The AC light on climate control comes on. Fuse is good and I tried a different relay. I jumpered the Dryer's connector (by the pass. front strut tower) and the comp. clutch moves in/out. When I started to fill it with new refrigerant the clutch on the AC never turned on and then I got a really loud hissing/pressure noise coming out of the front of the car by the radiator. I’m assuming that’s the condenser but I don’t know whether that means the condenser is plugged or if there is a valve in that area that could also be broken? I don't have AC gauges or a way to pull a vaccum. Thanks for any insight.

Thanks for the info. I haven't been getting update notifications. I updated my password.....oops.

Hi, IMHO, the CR reliability reports are valid. Why the '10 Forester and OB are rated differently I can't comment. I'd also check the 'carcomplaints.com' site. It's more opinionated in that its title is the 1st clue - complaints vs. overall experience. People frequently share an opinion when it's broken and not when it's working properly. After the '11 FB25 issues, I'd still be suspect if Subaru actually fixed the oil usage. Their policy - in years past - has been 1qt/1K miles oil consumption was normal, which means you're out of oil well before the next oil change (OCI). But I've not kept pace with the current reliability of the new(er) FB-series engines. Ideally, you'd have a local independent Subaru mech- not a dealership tech- that you can trust for info, too. Good luck

Good Day! I'm suffering a leak from the passenger side (right ) rear camshaft cap. It was leaking when I installed the engine, so I just acquired the correct O-ring: Engine Camshaft Seal O Ring 806946030. When I reinstalled it, the cap installed a little more snugly then the last time I'd done this task, and I used the two 'wing' bolts to suck it in to the head. Still Leaked. So, wondering if it (or I did it) was possibly warped or whatever can happen to this part? Example: Any feedback is appreciated. And wondering If I can just use some RTV around it to stop the leak? Thanks P.s. FWIW, the engine ran great (I've since pulled for another engine upgrade), and other than the leak, didn't appear to consume oil.

And for maintenance history only, create a free account on 'mycarfax . com ' to look up what's been done.

Car-fax for < 6 - www gooffood com and Auto-check for 2- lookupauto com They may change in the future, but I've used them both repeatedly w/out issue.

Don't forget your VSS. The 2002 is likely still on the trans. pass. side. That 2005 was about when that went away. The DCC Pro (?) is an option, but may not be worth it.

Edit 3/10/21: Got the Cometic HG: P/N: H1631SPL051S Description: Subaru EJ22/25 Hybrid engine 98mm .051" MLS Gasket SOHC 16V '96 EJ22E is apart and NOW I understand why the port matching - of the coolant ports - isn't that critical. Per the added pics, I have an EJ253 Subaru OEM HG on the EJ22 block (the EJ25x matches the EJ25D heads) and the Cometic HG on both block and heads. Due to the BLOCK's coolant port configuration they'll work 'just fine' as is; and of course since they match the 2.5 config they'll work on the heads, too. EJ22E block (yes, I cleaned it up b4 installing HG): OEM EJ253 HG on EJ22E block: Cometic on EJ22E block: Cometic on EJ25D heads: And oil and coolant ports on the EJ block: Original request: Anyone Modify / Cut a Head Gasket for the EJ22E block with EJ25D heads for the oil and coolant ports? Cometic is 5-6 weeks out for their custom hybrid HG: H1631SPL051S (98MM bore, .051" thickness) I'm not going to install a 'stock' EJ22E HG because it doesn't line up well. This is an EJ22E HG on an EJ22T block. The EJ22T block matches the EJ25D, which is what I built 10 years ago, so I just used an EJ22T HG back then. Here's a pic of the EJ222 - Phase 2. Thinking of using this, if I can modify it. Its ports match the EJ25D's. Thanks

'90-'94 EJ22e (NA/non-turbo) 5-speed manual, Final drive ratio (FDR): 4.11 And the '97-'99 EJ25D models had the same FDR and may be stronger? But if they're from an OB or Forester they'll have different gear ratios and your speedo will be off.

Thanks for the update. Interested what your Manual Trans ID was (TYxxxxxxxx) or the exact year Forester it came from? I may be needing one myself. I know there are many options, but nice to know 'for sure' what someone else installed.

Thanks...that's what this means: "I can put the Forester's keyless system into programming mode: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm" And FWIW, I did this on '99 Foz w/the same system last month and it worked (but with a different key fob).

Happy New Year USMB EDIT: Issue must be w/the under-dash wiring. While filling the tank, I pushed the button (for the heck of it) and the REAR hatch locked/unlocked and the lights flashed. The rear hatch was replaced after a break-in a few years back. So, something, something is amiss with keyless controller. No, I don't know why I didn't notice b4, thanks for asking. Edit#2: Well, it's now working normally for ALL doors. My guess? Is that the actuator was likely just dormant after all these years of non-use? Anyway, I'll take this off the the 'to do (aka Fix) list'. I have one of these CODE Alarm fobs. I'd like to get it to work in a '98 Forester. - I'm 99% sure the fob worked before and it has a brand-new battery - but I don't see any lights (on the fob) even when I tested with the case open so don't know if it's actually DOA or not. - I can put the Forester's keyless system into programming mode: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm - When in programming mode, holding the programming button and pushing the 'Lock' button nothing happens- no door lock cycle occurs to confirm. - Any insight on troubleshooting these fobs? Anyone have an extra they want to sell (I'd like to have a spare/test)?

Drain the fluid and reuse if it's not due to be replaced (every 30K miles ). And some will still have leak out. I don't recall how much but a quart of DEXIII should suffice to top it off. You'll need that rear section's gasket too, and I'd suggest replace the Duty C while in there. From here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_1/ (USMB won't allow bigger pics?)

Hi, Your '94 WRX is not USDM - likely JDM import? If so, I'm not sure we'd all have much knowledge about it. Evidenced by the lack of response. I googled your Trans ID and didn't get much. I'd google and it see what other Subie owners have done overseas and check other int'l Subie sites. My opinion: I'd be very surprised if that '02-'05 was Electronically compatible w/your '94. Yours is considered a Phase 1 trans, and although I'm not sure when JDM stuff converted to Phase 2, I believe it was '02ish. They won't play nice with each other - The '94 TCM (trans computer) won't know what to do w/that newer trans and vice versa. A newer TCM won't connect to your existing harness nor will it work w/that EJ20G under the hood. If wiring is your forte, have at it. EDIT: You stated you have VTD? In '94? Hmm...the below probably won't apply as US didn't get those 'til the '01 OB, AFAIK. I'd bet you could use another 4EAT from a US model. The downside is that there is no transmission (other than an SVX, but you don't want one of THOSE) built for your turbo's power, , esp. if you're WRX is running higher boost. The longevity of an NA/non-turbo trans may be limited. The best option would be to find a low-mileage 4EAT from a '96-'98 Legacy OB or GT, or '98 Forester or Impreza RS - you'll need the rear diff since those are all 4.44. Or better yet, convert to manual, but that may not be an option.

Also...I'd put it in 1st and see if it's as bad. If it's better than you can 'manually shift' when warranted. Not ideal but easier than fixing the clutch packs - unless you're bored and have a heated shop (I sure as heck don't). I had a '99 Foz w/a similar issue that was better in 1st than in D for starting out when slick. Only had 97K miles, but unknown previous ATF maintenance. I'd also do the 3x Drain>Refill>Drive cycles mentioned on here. It didn't help mine, but it was due for fresh ATF anyway.

Hi, If the CEL is on - even if you checked it - double-check it for codes. Does it miss/hesitate with your foot on the go pedal? Wondering if the DBW may be bugging-out. 2014 isn't too old, but how many miles/kms? Maybe you're due for a tune-up? Does this have a CVT or Automatic - either way check the fluid. Td

May have missed it but did you count teeth on the Tbelt? That's the 'safest' way to ensure timing (or so I've read).

1st: Post your Ride - year/model - A$$uming this is a '90-'98/'99 if you're running those heads. 2nd: Did it EVER run right after the engine install? 3rd: Hopefully the smart guys will reply as I'm not an engine expurt....but those #'s comp/LD all seem 'good nuf'. 4th: Those are the good gaskets (depending on STi-based year), but I didn't know they were that skinny. Did you double-check your clearance between pistons/valves etc? The '99 OB/GT/SUS use a similar engine (Phase 1 heads on Phase 2 block) but pretty sure the pistons are Phase 1. 5th: My guess (!) is that you have a vacuum leak - maybe the IM isn't sealed since you had to mod-2-fit? 6th: And if your CEL is on what are the CURRENT codes - after they're cleared/ECU reset? Edit:...I'm thinking 1LT is on track. If you had to mod the IM, the timing is likely suspect, but not sure how it affects the comp/LD tests if it IS off? Td