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Thanks for the info. I haven't been getting update notifications. I updated my password.....oops.

Hi, IMHO, the CR reliability reports are valid. Why the '10 Forester and OB are rated differently I can't comment. I'd also check the 'carcomplaints.com' site. It's more opinionated in that its title is the 1st clue - complaints vs. overall experience. People frequently share an opinion when it's broken and not when it's working properly. After the '11 FB25 issues, I'd still be suspect if Subaru actually fixed the oil usage. Their policy - in years past - has been 1qt/1K miles oil consumption was normal, which means you're out of oil well before the next oil change (OCI). But I've not kept pace with the current reliability of the new(er) FB-series engines. Ideally, you'd have a local independent Subaru mech- not a dealership tech- that you can trust for info, too. Good luck

Good Day! I'm suffering a leak from the passenger side (right ) rear camshaft cap. It was leaking when I installed the engine, so I just acquired the correct O-ring: Engine Camshaft Seal O Ring 806946030. When I reinstalled it, the cap installed a little more snugly then the last time I'd done this task, and I used the two 'wing' bolts to suck it in to the head. Still Leaked. So, wondering if it (or I did it) was possibly warped or whatever can happen to this part? Example: Any feedback is appreciated. And wondering If I can just use some RTV around it to stop the leak? Thanks P.s. FWIW, the engine ran great (I've since pulled for another engine upgrade), and other than the leak, didn't appear to consume oil.

And for maintenance history only, create a free account on 'mycarfax . com ' to look up what's been done.

Car-fax for < 6 - www gooffood com and Auto-check for 2- lookupauto com They may change in the future, but I've used them both repeatedly w/out issue.

Don't forget your VSS. The 2002 is likely still on the trans. pass. side. That 2005 was about when that went away. The DCC Pro (?) is an option, but may not be worth it.

Edit 3/10/21: Got the Cometic HG: P/N: H1631SPL051S Description: Subaru EJ22/25 Hybrid engine 98mm .051" MLS Gasket SOHC 16V '96 EJ22E is apart and NOW I understand why the port matching - of the coolant ports - isn't that critical. Per the added pics, I have an EJ253 Subaru OEM HG on the EJ22 block (the EJ25x matches the EJ25D heads) and the Cometic HG on both block and heads. Due to the BLOCK's coolant port configuration they'll work 'just fine' as is; and of course since they match the 2.5 config they'll work on the heads, too. EJ22E block (yes, I cleaned it up b4 installing HG): OEM EJ253 HG on EJ22E block: Cometic on EJ22E block: Cometic on EJ25D heads: And oil and coolant ports on the EJ block: Original request: Anyone Modify / Cut a Head Gasket for the EJ22E block with EJ25D heads for the oil and coolant ports? Cometic is 5-6 weeks out for their custom hybrid HG: H1631SPL051S (98MM bore, .051" thickness) I'm not going to install a 'stock' EJ22E HG because it doesn't line up well. This is an EJ22E HG on an EJ22T block. The EJ22T block matches the EJ25D, which is what I built 10 years ago, so I just used an EJ22T HG back then. Here's a pic of the EJ222 - Phase 2. Thinking of using this, if I can modify it. Its ports match the EJ25D's. Thanks

'90-'94 EJ22e (NA/non-turbo) 5-speed manual, Final drive ratio (FDR): 4.11 And the '97-'99 EJ25D models had the same FDR and may be stronger? But if they're from an OB or Forester they'll have different gear ratios and your speedo will be off.

Thanks for the update. Interested what your Manual Trans ID was (TYxxxxxxxx) or the exact year Forester it came from? I may be needing one myself. I know there are many options, but nice to know 'for sure' what someone else installed.

Thanks...that's what this means: "I can put the Forester's keyless system into programming mode: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm" And FWIW, I did this on '99 Foz w/the same system last month and it worked (but with a different key fob).

Happy New Year USMB EDIT: Issue must be w/the under-dash wiring. While filling the tank, I pushed the button (for the heck of it) and the REAR hatch locked/unlocked and the lights flashed. The rear hatch was replaced after a break-in a few years back. So, something, something is amiss with keyless controller. No, I don't know why I didn't notice b4, thanks for asking. Edit#2: Well, it's now working normally for ALL doors. My guess? Is that the actuator was likely just dormant after all these years of non-use? Anyway, I'll take this off the the 'to do (aka Fix) list'. I have one of these CODE Alarm fobs. I'd like to get it to work in a '98 Forester. - I'm 99% sure the fob worked before and it has a brand-new battery - but I don't see any lights (on the fob) even when I tested with the case open so don't know if it's actually DOA or not. - I can put the Forester's keyless system into programming mode: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm - When in programming mode, holding the programming button and pushing the 'Lock' button nothing happens- no door lock cycle occurs to confirm. - Any insight on troubleshooting these fobs? Anyone have an extra they want to sell (I'd like to have a spare/test)?

Drain the fluid and reuse if it's not due to be replaced (every 30K miles ). And some will still have leak out. I don't recall how much but a quart of DEXIII should suffice to top it off. You'll need that rear section's gasket too, and I'd suggest replace the Duty C while in there. From here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_1/ (USMB won't allow bigger pics?)

Hi, Your '94 WRX is not USDM - likely JDM import? If so, I'm not sure we'd all have much knowledge about it. Evidenced by the lack of response. I googled your Trans ID and didn't get much. I'd google and it see what other Subie owners have done overseas and check other int'l Subie sites. My opinion: I'd be very surprised if that '02-'05 was Electronically compatible w/your '94. Yours is considered a Phase 1 trans, and although I'm not sure when JDM stuff converted to Phase 2, I believe it was '02ish. They won't play nice with each other - The '94 TCM (trans computer) won't know what to do w/that newer trans and vice versa. A newer TCM won't connect to your existing harness nor will it work w/that EJ20G under the hood. If wiring is your forte, have at it. EDIT: You stated you have VTD? In '94? Hmm...the below probably won't apply as US didn't get those 'til the '01 OB, AFAIK. I'd bet you could use another 4EAT from a US model. The downside is that there is no transmission (other than an SVX, but you don't want one of THOSE) built for your turbo's power, , esp. if you're WRX is running higher boost. The longevity of an NA/non-turbo trans may be limited. The best option would be to find a low-mileage 4EAT from a '96-'98 Legacy OB or GT, or '98 Forester or Impreza RS - you'll need the rear diff since those are all 4.44. Or better yet, convert to manual, but that may not be an option.

Also...I'd put it in 1st and see if it's as bad. If it's better than you can 'manually shift' when warranted. Not ideal but easier than fixing the clutch packs - unless you're bored and have a heated shop (I sure as heck don't). I had a '99 Foz w/a similar issue that was better in 1st than in D for starting out when slick. Only had 97K miles, but unknown previous ATF maintenance. I'd also do the 3x Drain>Refill>Drive cycles mentioned on here. It didn't help mine, but it was due for fresh ATF anyway.

Hi, If the CEL is on - even if you checked it - double-check it for codes. Does it miss/hesitate with your foot on the go pedal? Wondering if the DBW may be bugging-out. 2014 isn't too old, but how many miles/kms? Maybe you're due for a tune-up? Does this have a CVT or Automatic - either way check the fluid. Td

May have missed it but did you count teeth on the Tbelt? That's the 'safest' way to ensure timing (or so I've read).

1st: Post your Ride - year/model - A$$uming this is a '90-'98/'99 if you're running those heads. 2nd: Did it EVER run right after the engine install? 3rd: Hopefully the smart guys will reply as I'm not an engine expurt....but those #'s comp/LD all seem 'good nuf'. 4th: Those are the good gaskets (depending on STi-based year), but I didn't know they were that skinny. Did you double-check your clearance between pistons/valves etc? The '99 OB/GT/SUS use a similar engine (Phase 1 heads on Phase 2 block) but pretty sure the pistons are Phase 1. 5th: My guess (!) is that you have a vacuum leak - maybe the IM isn't sealed since you had to mod-2-fit? 6th: And if your CEL is on what are the CURRENT codes - after they're cleared/ECU reset? Edit:...I'm thinking 1LT is on track. If you had to mod the IM, the timing is likely suspect, but not sure how it affects the comp/LD tests if it IS off? Td

Hi, Those are super-cool cars and they also had other factory options - in Japan- that we never got in the USA. You'll want to search online for the 'valley of death' (turbo reference), and this site has some info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy_(second_generation) The engine should be similar to any other EJ20G/K/R series engine: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine#EJ20 These should be Phase 1 versions, until about '98/'99 for the JDM versions. Japan usually got the next generation a year before the USA. The turbos are unique, AFAIK, to the twin-turbo models. So if they fail, it'll be a challenge finding a replacement. I've read that they can be converted to a more 'normal' single turbo setup, but that'll take some Googlin'. They'll also likely have a unique top mount intercooler setup. If the hoses/fittings/etc. fail they can be hard to find. I've had some success using ebay's UK site: https://www.ebay.co.uk/ Check with the SELLER before buying anything to see if they'll 'post' (ship) to the US. Also, there is a member on the Legacy Central site that may be useful for info, see here: http://legacycentral.org/ Joshua Colombo (Legacy777) knows the guy, too. Josh used to post on here but he's the Admin on Legacy Central. I think his name is Michael Block: https://shoutengine.com/CrankJournal/reengineering-with-joshua-colombo-40015 And there may be other online forums based in Australia for info...since they're also RH drive I think they got these. GL, Td

Check resistance on the injectors. Should be 10-12 ohms, IIRC. '92 'should' have the same red, side-feeds as every EJ22/25 until '98-ish - if you have a local used/salvage/wrecking yard. They are a pain to remove from the rails. I'd also 2nd the coolant sensor as suspect. On that year there's one for the gauge (single plug) and the actual sensor (2-wire) for the ECU, next to each other. Also, kind of a pain to access/remove.

OEM...and they show the R and L on the OEM parts. And yeah...they can be installed 'upside' down on the other side. Thanks 'wearever' brand: Pic is from website. Looks universal, from these angles. OEM: I'll take another look at them as this OEM image definitely shows differences in the casting on each end and the other side.

Edit: Had a 'super' senior moment: The brackets ARE labeled HTH did I miss them. Pins: Brackets labeled L and R THERE: I bought a set of Advance Auto Wearever calipers and brackets for an '04 WRX. Took 'em apart to install clips and pads and didn't note that the Brackets are left and right-specific - like the Calipers, until I looked 'em up online today. How do I tell if I put them on the correct side? They looked the same to me. And the Calipers mounted up fine. Thanks

Saw a real '79 FE Coupe today. Snapped a couple pics. NOT MINE. It was a barn find in MT. I was buying parts from the owner and he showed me the car. By no means primo condition out/in, but a 'survivor' if that term applies. A couple of interesting links: https://www.curbsideclassic.com/cars-of-a-lifetime/cars-of-a-lifetime-1979-subaru-fe-it-can-finally-be-told-and-shown/ https://www.autosspeed.com/10-of-the-rarest-subarus-ever/

FWIW, I've noted on a couple of my past Subarus - and anecdotally online - that changing the fluid on a higher mileage car can induce symptoms of a failed/failing transmission as the 'new' ATF causes seals to leak. The old ATF and accumulated sludge creates a seal that prevents leaking and other issues- until it's changed out. It's usually due to a chemical or power flush, so in your case - where it was just drained and refilled- I'm less confident it's related. Otherwise, you have useful info above to work thru. Good luck.

Tangent: Please see http://www.cars101.com/impreza_archive97_98.html '97 was the last year of the 1.8, per cars101.com. And the ebay pics are legit based on the part number 22611AC450. Back to topic: Yes, the EJ22 IM + ECU is good.

HI, Yes....they are...should be able to pull that part off and sand it down. There was/is a Great Post on here that I followed. I can't recall the 'poster' but likely Search will find it or maybe on YT. I did that on mine to repair the TB and delayed AWD. IIRC, you'll want to also replace the Duty-C ...it's easy to do with it all apart and they do fail.