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Hi, ***I found this LINK that states: I read that as meaning it can be added to an existing system?? If you buy the whole replacement/retrofit kit it will have the fittings and hose. They should also be avl. separately. IIRC, the R12 and R134a schrader valves are different sizes.....the kits may have both. GL, Td

Hi, My '00 OB had no EGR and neither did the '01 I swapped in (rod knock). Wikipedia states '00-'04 for the EJ251 - but I guess that doesn't mean it didn't have EGR. The EJ22 had EGR on the '95 Automatics but not on the Manuals...so..... EDIT: Just checked Opposedforces.com and it shows EGR on the '02+ - HERE. Pic of '00 w/out EGR: Pic of '02+ EGR: I've wondered about this swap - I've read on here the intake manifolds supposedly swap, so you could just use that if needed. Please let us know how this works out. GL, Td

It's going to be cheaper overall to change over to the R134a. There are multiple ways to do it - you can buy the kits @ most auto parts stores...but is probably bad for the environment and illegal (if you don't have it evacuated @ a shop); and taking to a shop to convert may be more $$ than the car is worth. Check CL for someone selling R12 - may get lucky. GL, Td

-Best 'bang for buck' is Cobb AP- about $400 each used (can't share between your cars, btw - it's 'married' to the car once a tune is applied). Cobb has OTS (off the shelf) maps that are free to download and install, but a Pro/Custom tune (~$300-500) will get you even more - this is all on the stock car. EDIT: Ensure you get the one for YOUR YEAR/MODEL. -Next, I'd get a Downpipe, which the Cobb can tune for. ($150 ebait>>$600 Cobb) -They both come stock w/the TD04, which is small. Both can benefit from a relatively easy upgrade to an STI VF39/43/48 turbo, and the AP can tune for those as well. ($350-500 - Used) -Intercooler- if you get a bigger turbo, you'll want more cool air. One issue is getting the correct scoop/splitter/diffuser to ensure the incoming air is getting to ALL of the bigger IC. ($200++) -Intake and Exhaust once you decide to get a bigger turbo, as the existing ones are good to @ least 250 WHEEL HP. (too many options to price) Yes, I know people like to get an exhaust and intake, but they're not the best bang for your buck....unless your 'ear-dyno' is more important than the 'butt-dyno'. And no offense to the USMB, but it's time to go Searching on subaruforester.org for the XT, and NASIOC for the WRX, if you haven't already. Just watch out on NASIOC...Search well b4 asking or you'll be wishing you had. I HIGHLY recommend reading Unabomber's Manifesto - it covers a TON of stuff related to your upgrades. GL, TD

That is some impressive mileage...I'd be feeling my age @ 364K miles/22 years old too. +1 on just replacing the whole TB. Does it idle poorly when started cold - after sitting overnight? If so, it's not the 02 sensor, IMHO, as I've read they don't do anything 'til the car is in closed-loop and @ operating temp. 1. I'd clean out the IAC - don't use WD-40 or something that will leave a residue. I think brake cleaner is best? POST on cleaning. 2. Also, clean the MAF sensor w/MAF-specific cleaner. 3. Coolant sensor, aka CTS - if it's giving faulty readings everything else the ECU controls will be messed up. Does it start OK when cold or crank more than usual? 4. O2 sensor 5. ECU could be bad...but unlikely. 6. Fuel pump GL, Td

Here ya go>>LINK

That one injector being unplugged and not changing anything is likely one good symptom....but can't help w/exact issue. Could be it's still drying out. Can you read CELs from the EJ22 ECU? Pull the codes? Until it all dries out, I think you're going to have issues. Besides the snorkel, do you have a full coverage skidplate or other means to prevent water/mud splashing from underneath? It sounds like fun, but water fording/mud bogging are going to get water/mud where 'they ain't 'sposed 2B' unless you've taken extra precautions. I drive a street-only Forester and have water/mud splater on the engine w/one missing little cover.....can't imagine how it'd be w/actually going off-road. GL and have fun tomorrow, TD

Hi, That error # points more to the Secondary Air Pump - P2444 is the Secondary Air Pump 1 Stuck On B1 - not an injector. I didn't read much of the Thread but this POST has some info, and I'd spend time searching on NASIOC anyway. Here's another WRX SITE Post. Also, I'd push the dealer to fix it as I read there's an 8 year/ 80K warranty on emissions stuff, which this should fall under depending on many miles you have on it. If you find it's either the pump or an injector you can buy used parts on NASIOC for your '06. A lot less than new. Also the Forester XT (and maybe Legacy) turbos use this pump. GL, Td

Knock sensor: Buy a used one if you've got a yard that sells parts nearby. Uncommon for the '95+ years to fail. Fuel filter: I'd change it. Not difficult technically, but those darned hoses are a pain to remove. Let the car sit overnight so there's little/no pressure on the fuel lines. Spark Plugs: The EJ25 should have platinum plugs, per the owner's manual, which are good for 60K. Pull one to check. If they're not NGK platinums nor NGK coppers, I'd change them to one of those. And 'ditto' on the wires - get the NGK brand. Your MPG should be closer to 20 around town; 27 highway, from my experience w/a couple different OBs. GL, Td

Hi, As stated do the flush/fill 3X to see if that helps and ensure it's Full. And try the Trans-X ATF stop leak. BTW, the ATF is a PITA to check, and make sure you fill in small amounts once it starts to show on the dipstick, as it takes only 1 pint to from Low to Full, from what I've read. For Subaru OEM prices, I recommend: 1: Jason Douglas jdouglas@mikescarffsubaru.com Mike Scarff Subaru of Auburn 3025 Auburn way north Auburn, WA 98002 1-866-456-3025 253-737-1345 Tell him your from the Subaru forum for best pricing. 2. http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ I read where Jamie is back. If she is, then this site also has good prices and service. GL, Td

Hi, I had a '90 Legacy. I had '93 LS, '97 OB and '02 WRX seats in mine. Even newer seats may work...should be post on here somewhere. The OB seats worked the best and have the up/down adjustment, and if you're handy some were heated -(both the cloth and leather versions) and can be retrofitted to work. The WRX Driver's seat was OK and was well-bolsterd to hold the driver in place, but the passenger seat sat too high and forward- it mounted up fine but something is a bit different between how the Impreza/WRX/Forester and Legacy seats fit. Any of the seats tend to wear on the outside edge by the door, so hopefully you can 'test fit' them in the original car. If not, compare/push down/squeeze the inside to outside to ensure they're similar.....not fun to swap seats and find out the seats are no good! TD

He stated he had the L w/the 15" so, he'll be good to go......and you'll need the mounting bracket for the calipers, if that's not obvious. List: mounting brackets calipers w/pads rotors/discs brake fluid ? TD

Yep...let me know. Thanks, Td

HI, It's been awhile since I did this repair, but I didn't bleed anything. Just put it back together and was good to go. The parking pawl mentioned above is a pain...ensure you note how it comes out! Thanks, TD

Hi check out this POST on cars101.com. The '90-99 EJ22 (?) Legacy L models had the 10.2" single-piston front disc and 10.5" rear. (Brighton had rear drum and NO ABS)....w/either 14" (L) or 15" (LS, LSi-<'96) wheels/rims. Any of the '96-99 EJ25D/2.5 (OB, GT, LSi) and Turbo (Sport Sedan/Touring Wagon) models had the larger 10.5" dual-piston front disc and 10.5" rear disc (vented rear on the turbo models)....and had 15" or 16" (GT) wheels. The Forester had the same as the Outback, AFAIK. More than you asked but may help w/IDing what you need. GL, Td

2004 Forest XT Auto/4EAT This transmission line hose fitting is kinked on my radiator, and I've been told you have to order the radiator to get it! Anyone know the size/dimensions for it? I'd like to buy another 90 degree fitting to replace it. Oh, btw? Tranny fluid is flammable! That hose split, hit the exhaust header and I had a little fire down there! Thanks, Td

Read on CARS101.COM to compare the Legacy versions and for the Outback versions.

2004 Forester XT 180K - NEWLY rebuilt engine, w/new CTS (water temp), plugs, wires, new front AFR / O2 sensor... When cold, car runs poorly - stumbles and hesitates for 1st 1-2 minutes 'til it warms up. No CEL. It's worse w/colder weather we've had the the last week - mid 30's F. It did this BEFORE the Rebuild and After. And it does it on the Stock tune, a Cobb OTS tune, and a Custom -online- tune. Leads me to believe it's an 'Open Loop' issue in the ECU's programming? The front O2 sensor is new - Not the rear, but since they're not used until it gets to Closed Loop, they shouldn't matter? I'm not sure what to log on the Cobb AP but guessing that's a place to start. Thanks for any feedback. Td

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Hi, Similar EJ255 engine as in my '04 Forester, which I just had rebuilt @ 180K. #4 cylinder is a common failure point as the piston ringlands crack and require replacment - doesn't require a rebuild, but lots of labor. As stated, check the DOHC timing belt - actually EXPECT to change it @ 115K, unless it's documented. Might show up on the Carfax/Autocheck the dealer can run for you. The turbos have a propensity to go @ around 150K. I've read numerous thread about the TD04 and VF40s blowing seals well before 200K - Go read up on SubaruOutback.org. If it IS 'beat' then I'd be weary that's it not been maintained - but more depends on how the car looks/runs. If you can determine that the car is unmolested/stock, you might give it a go; I personally will no longer buy a used, modded, turbo car - of any brand....FWIW. GL, TD

This will help w/the pinout on the ECU plugs - HERE. GL, Td

Yes, this is an almost 3 year old thread, but I came across it today, & I decided to close it. (Since I can't update the original...Why?? Every other forum allows it.) I bought a used cluster w/the Tach (Brightons don't have one) and the Speedometer, and it had almost the same Odometer (w/in 5k) reading. IIRC it was out of another Legacy L/LS vs. an OB/LSi/GT. I think those might be geared differently since the rear final drive ratio is different?? Still working fine after swapping it out, and it was a pretty easy job, too. Thanks Td

Axiom, This is called 'hijacking' the thread-it's not related to Topic. Please Search and then start a new thread if needed. Also, this thread was 2 years old when you replied initially.....so you may not get a response from the OP (original poster). TD

I'd ask LMDEW or mdjdc as they have Forester parts. Also, post/look over on subaruforester.org. The '98 was an 'odd' year as it had the EJ25D engine and other differences, but was basically the same 'til the '03 model upgrade, minus a few cosmetic differences in '01 - CARS101.com. Don't forget you should be able to use an Impreza CS, too. TD

^ They'll all bolt in, but they'll fit different. I had '02 WRX seats in my '90 Legacy and they were too tall and forward on the Passenger side - if that matters. But fit OK on the Driver's side, since I could lower them. The '90-'04 Legacy/OB/GT should all interchange, and I believe thru 2007 for the Impreza/Forester. Not sure about the '05+Legacy/outback. I've read mixed reviews on the newer Legacy seats, so might do some reading on here. Depending on $$ you could take your seats to a upholstery shop and get 'em fixed up. Td