wtdash

Any issues shifting into 1st or Reverse since this issue started? I recently had a pressure plate fail and when the PP failed the clutch didn't totally disengage. I initially replaced the TO bearing, slave, clutch MC, pilot bearing...didn't fix it...replaced the PP/clutch disc and was good to go. GL, Td

^+1 - make sure the car has body damage..not a guarantee, but otherwise it may be there for the same reason - dead 4EAT. My '95 (same generation trans) lost reverse AFTER I had a flush done. Another shop replaced the clutches only-not a rebuild - as mentioned and was good to go.....$900 later. TD

Year, Model, and Mileage needed. The sleeve kit like this? Needed if the 'snout' on the trans is worn on the left - like this: Only needed if damaged, but won't know 'til you have it apart....won't hurt to install it either way..just extra $$. I used a couple and they work fine, but can't state whether it'd help a performance/power issue. TD

Hi, Check the date...old Thread. Check out THIS LINK...it's also in the Owner's Manual. Td

Sorry to bump again, but I wanted to update this post for those that assisted in getting it fixed: It was an O-ring - NOT a bad injector. I tested the injector today b4 taking it out of the fuel rail and it tested OK - WTH? - so I removed it and the bottom O-ring was torn??? I'm dropping it off w/the other set I just bought to be tested/cleaned to verify, but appears it was my poor install that caused the issue. I did not rush the install, and have installed many injectors before, but obviously was careless enough to screw one up. What do people recommend to lube the O-rings to aid installing these dang things? I've heard vasoline and motor oil...is there something else?? Thanks

The '05 LGT is the 1st year w/the Turbo. If still stock it's 250/250 @ the FW; 200ish @ the wheels. If upgraded (tune and/or turbo, etc.) you'll want to look @ the performance clutches. GL, Td

Don't forget the rear Separator Plate 11831AA210 COST $25.22 (subarugeniuneparts.com*) and its 5 bolts (no P/N handy)....I don't think they're included in the Gasket kit you listed. The oil pump is usually just removed, tighten the philips head screws on the back of it, replace the O-ring, and resealed....Like THIS. And you'll read it A LOT on here, don't touch the Rear Main unless you're sure it's leaking. It's a PITA to reinstall....if there is a leak, it's probably the Separator Plate. * I don't know what happened, but since Jamie left, there service really SUX....they don't reply to my emails (maybe Jamie warned them about me??). GL, Td

Hi, If you swapped the Eng/Trans, did you also change the rear diff? If it's an AT, the OB is 4.44 FD ratio; Legacy is 4.11. And the Limited was only avl. as an AT, according to Cars101.com. Those injectors O-rings are PITA, to be sure. The EJ25D's only use 2; some have 4 w/the spacers. PIC GL, Td

Swapped in another set of injectors and the car is running normal again, and starting OK. The last time I had a bad injector I got a code so I thought I would've w/these, too. But as noted above...it wasn't bad enough to throw a code; just affect starting/running. Thanks for the help! td

Last time I had a bad injector I also had a CEL...so if the injector IS bad, not sure why it's not showing up in the codes. In this case, the injectors were cleaned/tested about 2500 miles ago (but I bought 'em used), and installed w/new O-rings. I cleaned the rails w/in the last 10 miles - just before installing them....coincidentally I also had the Last set of injectors cleaned/tested shortly before they failed.....WTH?? I may swap in my other set of injectors/rails to verify....they were recently cleaned/tested, too.... Thanks

Thanks for the replies. CTS is new, but swapped it anyway - same issue. Checked the resistance on the injectors and one is 25 ohms; other 3 are 13 ohms.....guessing that is the issue? Thanks

I swapped in another engine* to my '90 Legacy and it ran well for a day. I drove to work fine and then @ lunch, it cranks and cranks, and finally runs, but idles rough. It smells of fuel after it starts, too. If I turn it off and restart it immediately it starts right up, but if it sits for a couple of hours it's back to the same issue of needing to crank excessively before it'll run. NO CELs. My initial guess is I have a fuel flooding issue, but where do I look? If it's one or more leaking injectors, is that an 'bad injector' or an issue w/the fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator (FPR), fuel filter, fuel pump or ??? Thanks! TD * The engine is an EJ22T (turbo) w/bigger injectors and turbo. I'm running a tuned ECU desiged for the injectors, and as stated, it ran fine when initially installed but just started 'acting stupid' yesterday.

Hi, For others that might be interested, this is sounds like the 'Power Mode' switch mod for the 1st Gen Legacys. It keeps the trans in Power mode all the time (except when the cruise control is engaged). On the '89-94 models it 'lights up' the Power light on the dash for Automatics when the TCU/ECU senses a rapid application of the throttle. I've read that the '95 - '9? models have the same feature, but no light. BUT, this appears to only work on the '92+ Legacys...didn't work on my '90 or '91, until I swapped in a '93 TCU. My install notes: 1. Disconnected TCU's B46/Pin4, connected B46/Pin4 to Ground -Result - POWER Light in D, 3, 2 and Cruise Control still worked! TCU pinout HERE. Notes: -When CC is engaged, the POWER light goes out. Hit the brake, and it comes back on (My '90 didn't come w/a Cancel option on the CC lever). - RPMS @ 70 are same as before @ about- 2750. So I think the TC/OD are working correctly, too. Td

You don't say what year Legacy, but the OB's had dual-piston calipers w/10.7" (?) rotors from ~'96-'00. These will fit under the 15" rims. The '01/'02/'03+ OB/WRX/Forester used the dual-piston calipers w/11.4" rotors, and yes- you'll need the mounting brackets, but they work perfect on my '90 Legacy....you'll also need @ least 16" rims to clear 'em. p.s. make sure you know the exact year if you get the 11.4" version..there were multiple versions installed by Subaru during the '02-03 period, @ least on the WRX, so getting the correct pads depends on the year. GL, Td

We replaced the clutch disk and pressure plate and the issue is fixed. I couldn't see any issues w/the old parts, but not sure what to look for. The pedal also was better - came back quicker and more normal engagement- was what I was told by the driver. Thanks for the replies. GD- Looks like 5-speed is back for sale....unless I do a 5-speed swap into my turbo wagon.

I just (last 1/2 hour) thought of that, too....and I can't be sure we bothered to check...we'll verify when we check the PP. I read about them bending/breaking, so I had a new OEM just in case. We did inspect the fork and it looked fine. Thanks

PITA= Pain in the Arse :-) Not sure what you're asking....but when I installed the engine back in March I had a lot of trouble getting the engine/trans to come together. I probably forced something I shouldn't have and damaged one of the clutch components. Thanks, TD

As far as I know it's correct. It was working fine up until the last couple of weeks, and the shop that turned it was pretty sharp - they'd done a lot of Subaru FWs. Thanks, Td

Subaru PowerTrain warranty - engine and transmission - is for 5 yrs/60K last I checked......so you may not be out of warranty yet...just the bumper-to-bumper. Td

Edit: It was the Pressure plate and/or clutch disk. 1998 Forester 'S', 167K miles. Question: How can I diagnose if the clutch's Pressure Plate is bad vs. the transmission itself? Issue: Starting about 2 weeks ago, car won't shift into 1st or Reverse easily. Usually have to turn off car. Sometimes going into 2nd then into 1st, or into 4th then into Reverse works. Car shifts OK into 2-5 gears. On advice we replaced the Slave and Master cylinders as there was a TSB on the Slave cylinder. Didn't help. Edit: Put in Subaru Extra-S fluid <3K miles ago. We pulled the engine (w/2 people it went quickly), and I noticed the Tranquil sleeve kit TO bearing looked bad so we replaced it along w/the pilot bearing, which looked fine. TO bearing: Here's what a new Tranquil bearing should look like (on the left): After reinstallation (smoothest install ever!) it was a bit better for a few shifts but quickly returned to the same condition. -Took it to the shop and they re-bled the master/slave cylinders which didn't help. They stated it appears the clutch fork is moving properly, just not fully disengaging the clutch. So they're leaning towards the PP vs. the transmission. History: -July '10, during a turbo project, a freshly (properly) turned FW and new clutch/PP/TO(tranquil)/pilot bearing all installed. Shifted and drove fine for about 2K miles, 'til I gave up on turbo project (due to tuning issues). -In March '11 original engine w/new HG's installed. All the same clutch pieces reused - but I had a hell of a time getting the engine installed. Once installed seemed to shift/drive fine 'til 2 weeks ago. But due to the PITA install I'm thinking I messed up something...... Thanks for your time! Td

The '98 OB is a Push-style clutch (affects the clutch/flywheel/pressure-plate type) and uses a hydraulic actuation. I 'think' all EJ25/2.5 used this type, since it was on my '98 Forester and used on a '97 Legacy GT that I know of. I know the '96 OB w/the 2.2 and 5-speed was Cable actuated, FWIW. The FD ratio should be 4.11 on the OB. I've read that this version/generation of 5-speed is strong enough to handle 300HP; I know mine was still good for the brief period my Forester was close to 250HP. Td

The dealer has the latest version and P/N. Subarugenuineparts.com has good prices. GL, TD

I'd caution on using the '99 specs as it's the Phase 2 2.2, based on what I've read. Likely the same but be aware. GL, TD

From THIS POST: can i exclude this sensor ? Yes. Wire a 100-ohm 2-watt resistor between the ECU's purge control pin and an ignition-switched +12v source. GL, Td

The Delta cams are another $200 last I checked, so if this is a 'budget build' I can see why not. HERE'S a link from NASIOC, and there are many more - search on Frankenstine or Frankenstein and such, for more info than you may have time to read! GL, TD