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If you remove the IAC, You 'should' be able to access the crossover connection.

It goes to the coolant crossover pipe. See it here...it's that black hose in the upper middle of the pic (this is an EJ25 crossover, but should be the same as the EJ22). I labeled the other end, too:

My '91 Turbo 4EAT appears to be on its way out. Using the Manual button it works fine in Reverse, 1st, 3rd and D, but in 2nd it barely accelerates and has hard time shifting to 3rd. EDIT: Just found THIS post w/the exact same issue - changed fluid and it would work OK but then start slipping again.....so, I'm in for some trans work, regardless. :-( The car had about 30K miles since I originally swapped in the transmission and shifting didn't seem as crisp as it was originally. So, about 1 month ago, I changed the fluid doing the Drain/Refill, repeat 3X job, w/some regular ATF fluid. I didn't think the fluid looked too bad. But no real improvement in the shifting and it actually started getting worse this last couple of weeks. Car would over-rev while shifting, and would kind of 'hang' between shifts when getting on it (see below). I decided to try the Red Line D4 ATF fluid as it's supposedly the 'good stuff'. This time around I pulled the line off the AT cooler, ran it into a gallon jug, filled it about 3/4's and then added 3 quarts and repeated twice. Here's a pic of the new Red Line on the left and what came out on the right: As stated, the 'old' fluid has less than a 1K miles on it.... I checked the fluid level, and took it for a drive, and it ran a bit better.....for about 10 miles. When I was returning to home, it started over-revving in 2nd again and then barely shifted into 3rd. Reverse works fine. No POWER Light blinking indication of a stored Code. History: The transmission was rebuilt prior to when I installed it back in 7/2007, per the PO, but no paperwork to confirm and unknown miles since rebuild, so I took the chance. I added an AT cooler and transmission filter, too. This trans has had a HARD LIFE. It's regularly been subjected to 17-19 psi of boost - double-what the stock turbo engine puts out. Thanks, Td key: Automatic, AT, Auto

Leaning toward a Vac leak too. Possibly you bumped something that finally came loose? That is a Phase 2, EJ22, so not sure what sensors changed from the EJ22e, but the TPS/IAC were on the early years. The coolant temp sensor can also go bad and seems to cause frequent issues w/idle. If it's still a MAF-based system, I'd clean the MAF - carefully! - read up on here. GL, Td

HG on an EJ22? Not common. If you recently replaced the coolant ensure you 'burped' it properly! Td

Hi, Legacy Central has the ECU pinout HERE. It shows a "barometric pressure sensor" for the '90-92 models only. As already noted, I'm 99% sure I read this is internal to the ECU...can't find it now. The '92-94 ECUs should work, but I believe your '91 TCU may be looking for the ECU's sensor from the '90-91...not sure if it'll throw a code - flashing 'power' light'. This POST has a link to pics of the FSM's TCU pinout w/the 'atmospheric sensor' in the TCU. Td

Last I heard she's working @ DirtFish - a rally school, I believe. Sorry for the Hi-Jack, samneric! TD

I sent an email to SubieGal that used to work there, and she replied w/Nick Chaplin's email address, the Subaru Manager there: Here was my email:

Any issues shifting into 1st or Reverse since this issue started? I recently had a pressure plate fail and when the PP failed the clutch didn't totally disengage. I initially replaced the TO bearing, slave, clutch MC, pilot bearing...didn't fix it...replaced the PP/clutch disc and was good to go. GL, Td

^+1 - make sure the car has body damage..not a guarantee, but otherwise it may be there for the same reason - dead 4EAT. My '95 (same generation trans) lost reverse AFTER I had a flush done. Another shop replaced the clutches only-not a rebuild - as mentioned and was good to go.....$900 later. TD

Year, Model, and Mileage needed. The sleeve kit like this? Needed if the 'snout' on the trans is worn on the left - like this: Only needed if damaged, but won't know 'til you have it apart....won't hurt to install it either way..just extra $$. I used a couple and they work fine, but can't state whether it'd help a performance/power issue. TD

Hi, Check the date...old Thread. Check out THIS LINK...it's also in the Owner's Manual. Td

Sorry to bump again, but I wanted to update this post for those that assisted in getting it fixed: It was an O-ring - NOT a bad injector. I tested the injector today b4 taking it out of the fuel rail and it tested OK - WTH? - so I removed it and the bottom O-ring was torn??? I'm dropping it off w/the other set I just bought to be tested/cleaned to verify, but appears it was my poor install that caused the issue. I did not rush the install, and have installed many injectors before, but obviously was careless enough to screw one up. What do people recommend to lube the O-rings to aid installing these dang things? I've heard vasoline and motor oil...is there something else?? Thanks

The '05 LGT is the 1st year w/the Turbo. If still stock it's 250/250 @ the FW; 200ish @ the wheels. If upgraded (tune and/or turbo, etc.) you'll want to look @ the performance clutches. GL, Td

Don't forget the rear Separator Plate 11831AA210 COST $25.22 (subarugeniuneparts.com*) and its 5 bolts (no P/N handy)....I don't think they're included in the Gasket kit you listed. The oil pump is usually just removed, tighten the philips head screws on the back of it, replace the O-ring, and resealed....Like THIS. And you'll read it A LOT on here, don't touch the Rear Main unless you're sure it's leaking. It's a PITA to reinstall....if there is a leak, it's probably the Separator Plate. * I don't know what happened, but since Jamie left, there service really SUX....they don't reply to my emails (maybe Jamie warned them about me??). GL, Td

Hi, If you swapped the Eng/Trans, did you also change the rear diff? If it's an AT, the OB is 4.44 FD ratio; Legacy is 4.11. And the Limited was only avl. as an AT, according to Cars101.com. Those injectors O-rings are PITA, to be sure. The EJ25D's only use 2; some have 4 w/the spacers. PIC GL, Td

Swapped in another set of injectors and the car is running normal again, and starting OK. The last time I had a bad injector I got a code so I thought I would've w/these, too. But as noted above...it wasn't bad enough to throw a code; just affect starting/running. Thanks for the help! td

Last time I had a bad injector I also had a CEL...so if the injector IS bad, not sure why it's not showing up in the codes. In this case, the injectors were cleaned/tested about 2500 miles ago (but I bought 'em used), and installed w/new O-rings. I cleaned the rails w/in the last 10 miles - just before installing them....coincidentally I also had the Last set of injectors cleaned/tested shortly before they failed.....WTH?? I may swap in my other set of injectors/rails to verify....they were recently cleaned/tested, too.... Thanks

Thanks for the replies. CTS is new, but swapped it anyway - same issue. Checked the resistance on the injectors and one is 25 ohms; other 3 are 13 ohms.....guessing that is the issue? Thanks

I swapped in another engine* to my '90 Legacy and it ran well for a day. I drove to work fine and then @ lunch, it cranks and cranks, and finally runs, but idles rough. It smells of fuel after it starts, too. If I turn it off and restart it immediately it starts right up, but if it sits for a couple of hours it's back to the same issue of needing to crank excessively before it'll run. NO CELs. My initial guess is I have a fuel flooding issue, but where do I look? If it's one or more leaking injectors, is that an 'bad injector' or an issue w/the fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator (FPR), fuel filter, fuel pump or ??? Thanks! TD * The engine is an EJ22T (turbo) w/bigger injectors and turbo. I'm running a tuned ECU desiged for the injectors, and as stated, it ran fine when initially installed but just started 'acting stupid' yesterday.

Hi, For others that might be interested, this is sounds like the 'Power Mode' switch mod for the 1st Gen Legacys. It keeps the trans in Power mode all the time (except when the cruise control is engaged). On the '89-94 models it 'lights up' the Power light on the dash for Automatics when the TCU/ECU senses a rapid application of the throttle. I've read that the '95 - '9? models have the same feature, but no light. BUT, this appears to only work on the '92+ Legacys...didn't work on my '90 or '91, until I swapped in a '93 TCU. My install notes: 1. Disconnected TCU's B46/Pin4, connected B46/Pin4 to Ground -Result - POWER Light in D, 3, 2 and Cruise Control still worked! TCU pinout HERE. Notes: -When CC is engaged, the POWER light goes out. Hit the brake, and it comes back on (My '90 didn't come w/a Cancel option on the CC lever). - RPMS @ 70 are same as before @ about- 2750. So I think the TC/OD are working correctly, too. Td

You don't say what year Legacy, but the OB's had dual-piston calipers w/10.7" (?) rotors from ~'96-'00. These will fit under the 15" rims. The '01/'02/'03+ OB/WRX/Forester used the dual-piston calipers w/11.4" rotors, and yes- you'll need the mounting brackets, but they work perfect on my '90 Legacy....you'll also need @ least 16" rims to clear 'em. p.s. make sure you know the exact year if you get the 11.4" version..there were multiple versions installed by Subaru during the '02-03 period, @ least on the WRX, so getting the correct pads depends on the year. GL, Td

We replaced the clutch disk and pressure plate and the issue is fixed. I couldn't see any issues w/the old parts, but not sure what to look for. The pedal also was better - came back quicker and more normal engagement- was what I was told by the driver. Thanks for the replies. GD- Looks like 5-speed is back for sale....unless I do a 5-speed swap into my turbo wagon.

I just (last 1/2 hour) thought of that, too....and I can't be sure we bothered to check...we'll verify when we check the PP. I read about them bending/breaking, so I had a new OEM just in case. We did inspect the fork and it looked fine. Thanks

PITA= Pain in the Arse :-) Not sure what you're asking....but when I installed the engine back in March I had a lot of trouble getting the engine/trans to come together. I probably forced something I shouldn't have and damaged one of the clutch components. Thanks, TD