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As far as I know it's correct. It was working fine up until the last couple of weeks, and the shop that turned it was pretty sharp - they'd done a lot of Subaru FWs. Thanks, Td

Subaru PowerTrain warranty - engine and transmission - is for 5 yrs/60K last I checked......so you may not be out of warranty yet...just the bumper-to-bumper. Td

Edit: It was the Pressure plate and/or clutch disk. 1998 Forester 'S', 167K miles. Question: How can I diagnose if the clutch's Pressure Plate is bad vs. the transmission itself? Issue: Starting about 2 weeks ago, car won't shift into 1st or Reverse easily. Usually have to turn off car. Sometimes going into 2nd then into 1st, or into 4th then into Reverse works. Car shifts OK into 2-5 gears. On advice we replaced the Slave and Master cylinders as there was a TSB on the Slave cylinder. Didn't help. Edit: Put in Subaru Extra-S fluid <3K miles ago. We pulled the engine (w/2 people it went quickly), and I noticed the Tranquil sleeve kit TO bearing looked bad so we replaced it along w/the pilot bearing, which looked fine. TO bearing: Here's what a new Tranquil bearing should look like (on the left): After reinstallation (smoothest install ever!) it was a bit better for a few shifts but quickly returned to the same condition. -Took it to the shop and they re-bled the master/slave cylinders which didn't help. They stated it appears the clutch fork is moving properly, just not fully disengaging the clutch. So they're leaning towards the PP vs. the transmission. History: -July '10, during a turbo project, a freshly (properly) turned FW and new clutch/PP/TO(tranquil)/pilot bearing all installed. Shifted and drove fine for about 2K miles, 'til I gave up on turbo project (due to tuning issues). -In March '11 original engine w/new HG's installed. All the same clutch pieces reused - but I had a hell of a time getting the engine installed. Once installed seemed to shift/drive fine 'til 2 weeks ago. But due to the PITA install I'm thinking I messed up something...... Thanks for your time! Td

The '98 OB is a Push-style clutch (affects the clutch/flywheel/pressure-plate type) and uses a hydraulic actuation. I 'think' all EJ25/2.5 used this type, since it was on my '98 Forester and used on a '97 Legacy GT that I know of. I know the '96 OB w/the 2.2 and 5-speed was Cable actuated, FWIW. The FD ratio should be 4.11 on the OB. I've read that this version/generation of 5-speed is strong enough to handle 300HP; I know mine was still good for the brief period my Forester was close to 250HP. Td

The dealer has the latest version and P/N. Subarugenuineparts.com has good prices. GL, TD

I'd caution on using the '99 specs as it's the Phase 2 2.2, based on what I've read. Likely the same but be aware. GL, TD

From THIS POST: can i exclude this sensor ? Yes. Wire a 100-ohm 2-watt resistor between the ECU's purge control pin and an ignition-switched +12v source. GL, Td

The Delta cams are another $200 last I checked, so if this is a 'budget build' I can see why not. HERE'S a link from NASIOC, and there are many more - search on Frankenstine or Frankenstein and such, for more info than you may have time to read! GL, TD

Hi, Do you have the steering wheel lever, too? I'm wondering if the 'roll connector/clock spring' is the same? There may be a different switch actuated by the brake pedal that turns off the Cruise too....if the cruise controller doesn't see that the cruise may not work. Also, you don't have AC or power windows, correct? If you do then something 'just ain't right'. Looking on cars101.com the 'Value Plus' package included cruise/AC/PW. Td

The '95 OB had wider tires and bigger rims (cars101.com) - 195/60R-15 vs. the L's 185/70R-14, but they are essentially the same height so the speedo would be the same, if both are still 'stock'. Are they both on stock tires??? They should have the same transmission, too, as JC pointed out. The '96-99 OB ran the taller 205/70R-15, and had the 4.44 FD ratio in the 4EAT/4.11 in the 5-speed. I don't know about the 'stamping'....sometime in '94/'95?? Subaru stopped putting the ratio on the rear diff, like this one from the '80's:

HI, Sounds like you're doing it correctly, but this LINK from the cars101.com may have some hints about programming. GL, Td

As stated, double-check or have a shop make sure nothing else is worn out. I recommend new struts w/STi springs. Great combo: Firm but not pogo like full STi takesoffs. You can just grab some springs and struts off NASIOC, or get the struts new, take 'em to a shop to swap out for you if you don't want to deal w/the spring compressor, etc. But these are not adjustable...you'll want to do some research b4 you pull the trigger if you want to consider coilovers, etc. for AutoX. ENSURE you get the right strut for your year, as the '02-03 were different (and sedan is different from wagon) than the '04+, from my research. There is a great 'sticky' on NASIOC HERE. Look online for 'how to installs' as this is not tough, but you'l want to see what you're getting into. GL, Td

My '90 has/had this issue. I'd have to push/pull/push the stalk to get the Hi-beams to work. Do you get Hi-beams if you pull the switch toward you for the 'flash-to-pass' feature? If so, then it's likely in the stalk like mine. Mine seems to be working again, for now, but I don't drive much where I need them, so it's not something I'm going to worry about fixing. TD

The JECS 22680AA160 and AUTECS 22680A160F are interchangeble and used on the USDM NA Legacy/Impreza/Forester- 2.2 and 2.5 - from '89-98 ('99 for the Legacy). I have used them both on my cars successfully. I've read the MAF-specific cleaner isn't as harsh and is a lower pressure spray??? So it doesn't damage the element, I'd guess?

As 'Brus' points out, the Cat Conv. could be causing you issues and the O2 sensor code. But I'd check the KS for cracks (common problem). GL, TD

^ +1 I'd also try swapping the TCU. A '92-94 will be a direct replacement. Td

It's been stated on here many times to use OEM plugs/wires, so maybe worth a shot....esp. since it worked for 2 weeks...me thinks the Bosch just didn't like their new home. Try some NGK plugs, and let us know. GL, Td

Hi, If you buy a NEW or even a 2-3 year old NA Impreza, and put on a turbo kit, say GOOD-BYE to your warranty. If that's not an issue, they you may as well just buy a WRX or STi. :-) P.s. That cheaper insurance may also do you no good when they find it you modified it. TD

^Yeah, All Legacy/Outback/Impreza/WRX/Baja/Forester from '91-2009 (@ least) that are 15" or bigger wheels will fit. The 16" 215/60R-16 from older Foresters are the same height as the stock 205/70R-15's on your OB, FWIW. The only ones to avoid are SVX/'05+ STI/Tribeca, which are all the 5x114.3 bolt pattern. GL, Td

Hi, I may have misunderstood but the '99 Forester in your 1st post will have the same SOHC 2.5 as the 2000. As stated: '96-'99 Legacy OB/GT/LSi are the DOHC EJ25D, Phase (version) 1 - also used in the '98 Forester and '98 Impreza RS. '99 Forester/Impreza RS = SOHC EJ25 Phase 2 '99 + Legacy (non-GT/OB)/Impreza = SOHC EJ22 Phase 2 Trans: -'98 5-speed - (been down this road myself) - it's a 4.11 FD ratio, PUSH-style clutch - hydraulic. Lots of interchange options from (@ least) OB's of the '96-99 era and the GT. The OB's have a different 5th gear ratio (same FD) than the GT or Forester, and will spin higher RPM @ a given speed, based on what I've read. FWIW, I did the common '95 EJ22 swap into a '99 OB (yes, '99), which does have the extra bellhousing bolts. Other than (re)moving the locating dowls, I just used the 2.2's existing 4 bolts and was good to go....used the stock '99's computer to run it - no CEL. GL, TD

I did this on my '98 Fozzie last fall.... Just a heads up - that double-clip on the air bag connector plug is a PITA. I've seen posts on other Subie sites - subaruforester.org? - that had some hints (that I can't recall), but I still futzed w/it for longer than I should have. Other than threading the harness (requires a bit of patience), getting the wheel loose (mark its location b4 you get too busy and forget), and the plug , it's not too bad a job. Remove the Neg. battery cable, push on the brake (I've read it helps clear out any residual charge in the electrical system), and you'll keep your nose in place. GL, Td

Learn something new every day! I thought 'air injection' was an '80's thing. Isn't the '95 EJ18/Auto an OBD1? That would (help) explain the ECU differences. I'm 99% sure the '95 EJ22/Auto were OBDII. Let us know what the MPG is.....curious if it's better or worse. TD

The ECU will compensate automatically. This POST on a related site will give you the details. GL, Td

Larry, If you can figure out the push/pull clutch type, get an '05-08-ish Legacy GT/FXT/OBXT 5-speed. They sit behind turbocharged 2.5's and can handle the 3.0, I'd bet. I've seen them for <$1K. Edit: The '97-99 5-speeds in the '97-99 Subies w/2.5 are also rumored to be capable of handling 300HP. I was running 250WHP on my turbo'd Forester and it's still fine.....been there done that one. The GT/Forester's 5th gear is slightly better for MPG (2800 RPM @ 70 in my '98 Foz) vs. the OB - (IIRC I was @ 3100 RPM @ 70). Td (note: No, I've not done the 5 or 6-speed behind the 3.0 myself, so I'm out of compliance w/the new Sticky @ the top - which I do agree w/BTW.)

Due to your title, I'm guessing you're only interested in the EJ25 - non-turbo, but there were also the turbo in the XT model and 3.0 in the higher-end models - both are DOHC according to Cars101.com. Also from the Cars101.com site for a 2006 Outback: Break-in period: vary speed for 1000 miles 1st oil change 3months/3,000 miles. 3,750 oil change interval or 7,500 interval under easy driving conditions 7,500 miles or so: rotate tires 15,000 miles: check hoses, belts, brakes etc every 30,000 miles: 4 cylinder: replace spark plugs, all fluids, filters etc every 30,000 miles 4cylinder turbo & H6: replace all fluids, filters every 60,000 4 cylinder turbo and H6: replace spark plugs, all fluids, filters 105,000 miles: timing belt except on 6 cyl which has a timing chain GL, TD