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This was on my '90 Legacy Turbo (swap). I have a 'universal' CC, 3" In/Out, I bought online 2 years ago. It's directly behind a 3" bellmouth downpipe. When I pulled off my exhaust I heard some rattling. The below 'briquets' came out.....Uh, WTH? Any input is appreciated. Here's look inside to the back of the CC: Magnaflow Hi-flow Cat (94139) Pic: Thanks, Td

Can't confirm this, but your post kinda does. ECU will work w/either trans...so maybe that's part of it????....The ECU has a pin for Automatics (I know the '91-94 Turbo ECUs do since they all work for either trans), and if the harness is 'pinned' then the ECU reacts accordingly. Although my '98 Forester EJ25 w/a 5-speed DOES have EGR, too, .....Here's a '99 EJ22 5-speed Legacy on Ebay w/NO EGR.

Thanks for the replies......I added another view of the piston damage above. It's a little clearer, and the piston damage more obvious.

^Even though the piston is cracked down the middle? (That's not sarcasm - as I don't know whether the crack is bad or not.) I just looked @ the cylinder wall and there are 2 marks @ the top of the cylinder wall: That's the only damage....but Should the piston be perfectly flush w/the top of the cylinder when @ the top? One side is slightly lower than the other. Due pistons have a bit of 'wobble'? Thanks

2005 Impreza EJ25 SOHC, 70K (i was told) - pulley seized, broke the T-belt and bent a valve. I bought it to take a chance on the piston being undamaged...well... So THAT'S what happens when a valve hits the piston : edit: Here's head: Can I just replace the piston? I've got another set of heads that I was going to use on this. Thanks, Td

Larry, Did he confirm the TB didn't change w/the FWD fuse in (in case the light is burnt out)? Just would want to make sure it's the Duty-C and not the clutches....although it has to be opened up either way. GL, Td

Yeah..that is the Alarm part of the 'keyless entry system'. I've had both - one with and one without. The alarm is an additional upgrade to the keyless system....there is a probably one of these under the hood: As I keep waiting for lightning to strike, I'll offer this respetful disagreement w/Nipper - the Red light is also a button....I believe the description of its function above is correct - o - mundo. And under the driver's side dash is the other button - brown (or black) - that allows the key fobs/remotes to be programmed and to turn off the alarm when the battery is disconnected>>reconnected. GL, Td

?What is the idle speed in Park (assuming this is an AT)? If it's normal could be trans/TC issues.?

Is it tire type or size that's more important? Remember that if you go smaller/bigger you'll also mess w/your powerband. Bigger will spin less RPM @ at a given MPH, but will be slower off the line. INDY is pretty flat? If you've got hills this may matter. But if you go smaller, you'll end up higher in RPM band...and may get a vibration/resonance @ 70MPH you don't care for....you might try driving around in 3rd (AT) or 4th (5-speed) to see if you've got anything to worry about. Another good tire size and comparison calculator is: http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp GL, TD

What is the idle speed in Park (assuming this is an AT)? If it's normal could be trans/TC issues. What's the history of the engine? Did the low idle follow a major service - e.g. Head gasket, etc? Td

Forester struts (EDIT: Take offs>>Top hats + Spring + Strut) are different than Outback.... Check out my POST w/essentially this same setup (FXT struts fit the same as non-turbo Forester struts). The '93 should have the same top hat bolt pattern and bolt up in the rears w/out issue. There will be a noticeable sag in the rear, so be prepared. You can use 'saggy butt spacers' from Paranoid Fabrications if you want to level it out. TD

Check out subarugenuineparts.com for decent online prices and shipping costs. Also, the 'snout' on the transmission may be worn like THIS. If so, I recommend the Tranquil Snout Sleeve kit. I bought mine from performance@smart-service.com. Make sure you get the right one for your car. GL, TD

Check THIS old post about a dented pan...may help, too. GL, TD

Gary, I read on another Subaru forum that on the SOHC (which this is from - a non-turbo EJ25 on a 2005 Impreza), that since there's only one camshaft per head the valves wouldn't/couldn't collide, so it probably did hit the piston to bend.... Can you verify this? Thanks for your help!

Yep...been there/done that, but thanks for clarifying for others. (updated OP to show it's a SOHC.) Td

So, the valves hit each other, not the pistons, correct? Thanks!

2005 Phase 2 2.5 SOHC from an Impreza - non-turbo, 70K miles, bent valve due to idler pulley failure, which caused the T-belt to skip. (According to wikipedia this is an EJ253...which was also used in the '99 Forester/Impreza??) Can I install my Phase 1 EJ25 DOHC heads (edit: from a '98 Forester Phase 1 EJ25D block) on it and go? I've read the '99 Legacy series used the EJ25D heads and Phase 2 block, but 2005 is new enough to make me wonder. (I know I'll only use 1/2 the mounting bolts to connect to my transmission.) Would/could the valve damage the piston/block in any way? Thanks, Td

I SO hate those damn things...they are impossible to read. I'm not finding anything definitive. But a bad valve, timing belt issues, extreme weather changes, etc. come up. How many miles? What recent maintenance has been done or issues have occurred? Did you get the codes checked again? TD

In our NW- Subaru-prolific area $1K is a very good deal for a Legacy OB w/bad HG's. Sounds like a Limited trim, so even better. I've 'flipped' about 3 of these and paid over $1500 each time- even after talking 'em down a bit. I've heard/read the same complaint of the Forester's rear seats, too. GL, TD

Hi, I've seen this over on SubaruForester.org...suggest you search on there, too. GL, TD

I know they last longer...are they direct replacements for older cars' bulbs, too?

A couple of things to check: What's the AT's fluid level? Yours also has an AT spin-on filter, I believe. If it were clogged, it may cause your symptoms? GL, TD

After losing Reverse when I had my '95 Legacy's 4EAT Flushed (to address torque bind), I'm hesitant to recommend a flush on any Subaru over 100K that's never had the AT fluid touched. I'm in the drain>>refill 3x camp. Is it a valid argument that a flush can dislodge old fluid deposits leading to leaking seals? I don't know what a flush does internally, but if applies a reverse, or higher-than-normal, pressure to the AT's internals, I can see it being an issue. Thanks, Td

Technically, the XT6 - ER27- in '88-91 qualifies, I believe. Next up was the SVX-EG33 -'91-97. Then the 2001+ Outback had the EZ30 depending on the trim (LL Bean, Limited, etc.).....which is probably what you're after? Td

Best 'guess': You're in 'limp/fail-safe mode' due to the knock sensor, which lowers performance....not sure why there's not a code?? A cracked KS needs fixed regardless - used or new ($50 online).