wtdash

^ No offense, but I agree w/everything except rebuilding the turbo. Not a simple job as it can require special tools and some require balancing, so may be easier/cheaper to just buy a used one. BTW, it's an IHI VF40 turbo and I've read that some VF-series are not rebuildable. The VF40 uses different connections between the intercooler and turbo so beware it may not be as easy to swap in a different model turbo from a WRX or STi. What is your car doing that makes you suspect the turbo? GL, TD

FWIW: 1998 California ECU worked fine in my non-CA / Fed 1998 Forester. No CEL. Cold start>>10 mile freeway loop. TD

^ That is cool. The Gear set-hypoid section shows the ratio. Under HERE.

You'll need to know the trim/model of Legacy it came out of, I believe, as the GT may be different from an L....and make sure they're not still using the Legacy Outback as a description. Choices from cars101.com: Legacy L Sedan Legacy L Wagon Legacy L Special Edition sedan Legacy L Special Edition wagon Legacy GT Wagon Legacy GT Sedan I did a quick search of the '03 Legacy Owner's Manual (downloaded from "My Subaru" site) but didn't see it listed in there. Also, looked @ Car-Part.com and looks like 'maybe' the MT have 3.9 and AT's were 4.11, but again you'll need to verify the exact model. I've also read where you can email Subaru of America - w/the VIN # - and they can tell you. GL, Td

I'm going to test this tonight...if you can wait. My '98 Forester is Federal and I was sold a CA-spec ECU (hopefully I'l learn to ask for pics one of these days! ). I bought it as a backup (long story), but wanted to test it anyway. How much is it @ the yard? I'll be selling this one... If it works/No CELs, it should work in any Legacy/Forester from '97-98.

Yours sounds just like my 1998 Forester. Turn the key to On (not Start), and find the little brown button UNDER the dash near hood release. It may be mounted or just hanging loose or even tooked up in the harness. Hold it in after turning the key to On and the lights go off....If you hold it long enought the door locks will cycle which is when you'd synch your remotes - if you had them. Like this: A Search for 'lights flashing' turned up this similar/same: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29276&highlight=lights+flashing

I'm not disagreeing w/the above info, but playing the 'devil's advocate' for a minute, I'd add that the 4EAT must be maintained. Heat is a killer. I've personally replaced 3 4EATs and had one rebuilt. So, if shopping for an auto-equipped Subie, ensure you check it out. And, for the record, I have a turbo 4EAT in my turbo'd '90, running double the stock boost and the transmission is holding up great! TD

Hi Neighbor, Check by the passenger side of the transmission...you'll see a cable near the dipstick for the differential (you may need to remove the big part of the intake to get @ it/see it). This connects to the speed sensor. I'd double-check that it's tight. If it looks OK I'd scrounge up a used one, install it (directions likely on here/online) and see if that fixes it.....that's the easy fix. There have been issues w/the cluster (RPM/Speedo/Gauges), which is a bigger PITA to repair, plus your Odometer gets messed up...I'd find another used one of those too. If yours is an Automatic, a couple of gotchas to watch out for...yours is a Phase 2 4EAT, and according to Subarupartsforyou.com it's the same from late '98-02: 24030AA041 Legacy 1998-2002 Sensor, Speed SPEED SENSOR & HARNESS ASSMBLY FOR 1998-2002 LEGACY AUTOMATIC TRANS CARS ALL (item A) (for cars produced after 11 of 1997) I don't know if you HAVE TO replace the harness w/the sensor or not on the '99+ transmissions. For a 5-speed: 85082AE00A Legacy 1999-2004 Sensor, Speed SPEED SENSOR ASSEMBLY FOR 1999-2004 LEGACY MANUAL TRANS CARS ALL (item A) Also, if you replace the cluster I 'think' they have to match your model, due to the calibration, even though they all look the same (except the Brighton - no RPM). And note that the '96-99 Legacy Outback/GT are very similar so the cluster may work from any of those. EDIT: Since the '99 uses a different speedo/harness, the cluster MAY NOT be compatible from a '96-98....so watch out. GL, Td CDA, ID

This was on my '90 Legacy Turbo (swap). I have a 'universal' CC, 3" In/Out, I bought online 2 years ago. It's directly behind a 3" bellmouth downpipe. When I pulled off my exhaust I heard some rattling. The below 'briquets' came out.....Uh, WTH? Any input is appreciated. Here's look inside to the back of the CC: Magnaflow Hi-flow Cat (94139) Pic: Thanks, Td

Can't confirm this, but your post kinda does. ECU will work w/either trans...so maybe that's part of it????....The ECU has a pin for Automatics (I know the '91-94 Turbo ECUs do since they all work for either trans), and if the harness is 'pinned' then the ECU reacts accordingly. Although my '98 Forester EJ25 w/a 5-speed DOES have EGR, too, .....Here's a '99 EJ22 5-speed Legacy on Ebay w/NO EGR.

Thanks for the replies......I added another view of the piston damage above. It's a little clearer, and the piston damage more obvious.

^Even though the piston is cracked down the middle? (That's not sarcasm - as I don't know whether the crack is bad or not.) I just looked @ the cylinder wall and there are 2 marks @ the top of the cylinder wall: That's the only damage....but Should the piston be perfectly flush w/the top of the cylinder when @ the top? One side is slightly lower than the other. Due pistons have a bit of 'wobble'? Thanks

2005 Impreza EJ25 SOHC, 70K (i was told) - pulley seized, broke the T-belt and bent a valve. I bought it to take a chance on the piston being undamaged...well... So THAT'S what happens when a valve hits the piston : edit: Here's head: Can I just replace the piston? I've got another set of heads that I was going to use on this. Thanks, Td

Larry, Did he confirm the TB didn't change w/the FWD fuse in (in case the light is burnt out)? Just would want to make sure it's the Duty-C and not the clutches....although it has to be opened up either way. GL, Td

Yeah..that is the Alarm part of the 'keyless entry system'. I've had both - one with and one without. The alarm is an additional upgrade to the keyless system....there is a probably one of these under the hood: As I keep waiting for lightning to strike, I'll offer this respetful disagreement w/Nipper - the Red light is also a button....I believe the description of its function above is correct - o - mundo. And under the driver's side dash is the other button - brown (or black) - that allows the key fobs/remotes to be programmed and to turn off the alarm when the battery is disconnected>>reconnected. GL, Td

?What is the idle speed in Park (assuming this is an AT)? If it's normal could be trans/TC issues.?

Is it tire type or size that's more important? Remember that if you go smaller/bigger you'll also mess w/your powerband. Bigger will spin less RPM @ at a given MPH, but will be slower off the line. INDY is pretty flat? If you've got hills this may matter. But if you go smaller, you'll end up higher in RPM band...and may get a vibration/resonance @ 70MPH you don't care for....you might try driving around in 3rd (AT) or 4th (5-speed) to see if you've got anything to worry about. Another good tire size and comparison calculator is: http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp GL, TD

What is the idle speed in Park (assuming this is an AT)? If it's normal could be trans/TC issues. What's the history of the engine? Did the low idle follow a major service - e.g. Head gasket, etc? Td

Forester struts (EDIT: Take offs>>Top hats + Spring + Strut) are different than Outback.... Check out my POST w/essentially this same setup (FXT struts fit the same as non-turbo Forester struts). The '93 should have the same top hat bolt pattern and bolt up in the rears w/out issue. There will be a noticeable sag in the rear, so be prepared. You can use 'saggy butt spacers' from Paranoid Fabrications if you want to level it out. TD

Check out subarugenuineparts.com for decent online prices and shipping costs. Also, the 'snout' on the transmission may be worn like THIS. If so, I recommend the Tranquil Snout Sleeve kit. I bought mine from performance@smart-service.com. Make sure you get the right one for your car. GL, TD

Check THIS old post about a dented pan...may help, too. GL, TD

Gary, I read on another Subaru forum that on the SOHC (which this is from - a non-turbo EJ25 on a 2005 Impreza), that since there's only one camshaft per head the valves wouldn't/couldn't collide, so it probably did hit the piston to bend.... Can you verify this? Thanks for your help!

Yep...been there/done that, but thanks for clarifying for others. (updated OP to show it's a SOHC.) Td

So, the valves hit each other, not the pistons, correct? Thanks!

2005 Phase 2 2.5 SOHC from an Impreza - non-turbo, 70K miles, bent valve due to idler pulley failure, which caused the T-belt to skip. (According to wikipedia this is an EJ253...which was also used in the '99 Forester/Impreza??) Can I install my Phase 1 EJ25 DOHC heads (edit: from a '98 Forester Phase 1 EJ25D block) on it and go? I've read the '99 Legacy series used the EJ25D heads and Phase 2 block, but 2005 is new enough to make me wonder. (I know I'll only use 1/2 the mounting bolts to connect to my transmission.) Would/could the valve damage the piston/block in any way? Thanks, Td