wtdash

Sounds like a perfect candidate for replacement transmission. If you can do the work yourself and save the labor, get the used one. If you can't, then getting it rebuilt might be worth it if there are any issues. You'll get years more service out of your OBS....just keep the maintenance up-to-date. Td

Hi, Welcome to the Board. You can search on here for "sell or keep", "replace or fix", or similar terms, to see what others have done. What is the transmission doing that makes it suspect? New gear oil can help in some cases. Is the car solid otherwise? Not rusting out, etc? (If you're from Keizer, OR probably not too bad.) If so, I'd look @ replacing the transmission w/a lower mileage used one... And keep driving it. According to THIS CHART yours is a Push-style (vs. Pull) clutch and has a 3.90 final drive ratio (and the EJ22)....You can use a trans from a Legacy that matches those specs, too. Look on car-part.com for used trans in your area (but it probably won't show the Legacy interchange) for $500....usually can be shipped for another $150. It sounds like you could change it yourself. Watch craigslist or on subaru sites, too. GL, Td

Yes...and as noted by 'grossgary' there are some things to consider putting turbo engine into an NA car....the crossmember is a big one. If you're new to all this, please do yourself a favor and check some of the Build threads on various Subaru forums. GL, Td

See below.

Edit: ^ What he said. :-) You'll find on here that just about everyone recommends OEM wires. I've also seen Magnecor and NGK used. I bought my NGK wires from NAPA (had to order them). Don't go cheap! Plugs - unfortunately, due to their cost, the stock NGK's are again your best bet. But I've had a couple Subie mechanics whom I trust tell me the equivalent copper version are fine, too....you'll just need to change them sooner...but if you've done plugs on the 2.5 DOHC you know it's not a job you'll want to do again soon! Td

'transmission fluid' = Automatic? I wouldn't get back into the T-belt just yet.... Plugs and wires - condition/age?

eulogious, Nice write-up and thanks for taking the time to look into it. Maybe Sticky material? Td

Hi, Are you 100% sure you're T-belt is on correctly? Did you count the teeth on the belt between marks or just go off the marks on the belt and covers? Did you replace all the pulleys?...The belt 'screaching' makes me think a pulley is bad. Did you replace the belt tensioner? Or reuse the original one? If original, did you slowly compress it, per the FSM? GL, TD (500 posts FTW!-Finally!)

Should've clarified...the AT injectors are likely not compatible w/Manual rails (and vice versa) on the '89-91, but, Yes, the rails will interchange/fit the intake manifold mounts. Thanks

Hi, In your pics, the bottom pink ones are EJ22 Turbo injectors and avl. only on the '91-94 SS and '92-94 TW - 5-speed and Automatics - flow ~370cc. The NA versions flow about 250 (I think). So, did you use those as you listed a '90 Manual injector as your replacment? Very surprised your car ran so well, if so. Also, pretty sure the rails are different in the '89-91 AT vs. '89-91 5-speeds. But if your '90 Manual injectors looked the same as the EJ22T injectors, that would mean the '89-91 5-speed rails match the turbos....which isn't in line w/what I've seen online....check out the Legacy Central BBS. Always been curious about WHY Subaru used all these different injectors? Thanks, Td

Just get another used one that can be turned - if yours can't...all the 2.5 Outbacks/GTs/Foresters/Impreza RS w/the PUSH-style hydraulic clutch should work...make sure they use a real FW lathe to resurface it. You can also use an '06-07 WRX FW, but you'll need the matching PP and disk...running that on my '98 Forester in the stock 5-speed. GL, Td

There is another post on here today w/the smell of fuel. His was a loose plug wire, but he had a rough idle. I'd check your plugs and wires - easy stuff - first. Check for vac leaks? Was the HG replaced w/engine in the car? Just wondering if all the 'stuff' got reconnected if it was pulled. No CEL's correct? Td

- 5-speed only avl. on non-turbo version. - Will you carry others/lots of stuff into the mtns? If so you'll want the turbo. Remember, as noted above, altitude affects NA cars more than turbo cars, so if the NA cars feels strong in Sacramento, it'll feel 'less so' in the Sierras. Edit: Going from basically sea level to 6k feet, will be noticeable. - The WRX, which is very similar mechanically to the XT/Turbo, has seen a decline in reliability on CR on the '09 model and is Below Average, whereas the XT is just Average. The non-turbo Impreza is Better than Average, and the Forester is Much Better than Average. - I'd get a 100K extended warranty on the XT model, just for peace of mind. That'll cover your 7 years/14K a year usage. GL, TD

Hi, I found This LINK that shows the '99 was an odd year for the MAF sensor. The 2.2/EJ22 Legacy and the EJ22/EJ25 Impreza/Forester used your 22680AA29A. But they were also used by: 2002-2000 Infiniti G20 2001-2000 Infiniti I30 2001-2000 Nissan Maxima 2001-2000 Nissan Sentra 2.0 Liters Which means you may find one @ a local used parts/wrecking yard. Also, there was a recall on the MAF sensors on the Forester - maybe on the Legacy, too....check this LINK. I'd call your local Subaru dealer, tell them your VIN # and see if the recall has been taken care of. Gl, TD

Cool! Sounds like you need a new mechanic! The unburned fuel (smell) was the clue...he just went to fuel pump vs. ignition issue. TD

Hi, Since no one who knows for sure has responded, I'll suggest that the FP could be the culprit even @ 105K. On older Subies the fuel pump is accessed from the top - directly behind the rear seats, pull up the carpet and there should be a cover. Remove that and you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly. Like THIS. And another LINK for the older Outbacks. GL, Td

Google is your friend! Compression: Here's one proper way, per a Google search: -Make sure the engine has been warmed up before beginning the test, to ensure that the oil has been warmed up. A cold engine will not test correctly. -Disable the ignition module or coil. -Insert the compression tester into one cylinder spark plug hole at a time. -Hold the throttle to full open position to ensure the engine gets adequate air intake. -Crank the engine continually for at least five to 10 full revolutions to obtain an accurate reading on the compression tester. -Record the reading for each cylinder. If any of them vary 10 percent or more from each other a problem may exist in one or more cylinders. If the variance is greater than 10 percent, specialized testing equipment may be required to fully diagnose the problem. -If all cylinder readings are within 10 percent of each other, no further testing is required and compression is considered optimal. Not sure what the NA compression reading should be, but appears having them all w/in 10% is more important than the actual #???....(Turbos compression is about 150psi) Idle screw: I don't have FSM info for the '90-91 (check THIS ), but does the TPS have white marks on the side screws? Are they lined up? If so, maybe the TPS wasn't touched and you can just adjust the idle screw so RPMs are about 700. Do it a bit and let it settle...@ least on mine it was slow to respond. Timing: Check this LINK . (Anyone know what happened to Endwrench?) Here's ONE w/PICs. Keep @ it, TD

Correct...not 'sposed to touch the TB's top screw. They were only on the '90-91 cars, BTW. Sounds like yours has been messed with....should be a post or 2 on here about it. Also, check out the Legacy Central BBS, which is specific to the '89-94 Legacy. The '90-91 Autos had gray top injectors; the 5-speeds were different. No offense to Twitch, but I think you could use any year from '90-94, but you'll need the fuel rails AND injectors for the '90-91 5-speeds or '92-94 as they are different. (PM me if you need injectors.) Also, I hope it doesn't sound like we're asking you to 'throw parts @ it', but everything mentioned has been a useful fix/upgrade on others' cars, and helps eliminate existing issues and future problems. I'd put money on the KS as causing most of your issues...a cracked KS will put the car in 'limp' mode....although @ that point you'd likely get a code. The '95 ('96?) got an upgrade KS w/a white connector, which may be on a used '89-94 that has been fixed....just an option if a used one is avl. GL, TD

Unfortunately, Misfires are common on the '97-99 EJ25. Check the threads on here for what others have done to fix it...or that didn't fix it. :-( Yes, a burnt valve would cause it, but should show up in a poor idle, etc. New OEM plugs and wires? Add those if not. GL, Td

Welcome aboard. Install the new parts and let us know. HIGHLY suggested to use OEM plugs/wires, if you've not already read that on here. Subies are picky that way. NGK and Magnecor are OK replacements, too, IMHO. GL, Td P.s. Telluride is an amazing place!

Can you use a brass/metal 90° piece to connect @ the corners? Like below? They are probably cheaper than an OEM hose. I've cut the hardened parts off hoses and reused them (may be too ghetto, though).

Don't know the rating, but I'd guess around 100-110lph. If you check out my Forester link above you can see how it connected via a plug....I've only dealt w/my '90 Legacy and '98 Forester - both had plugs. So yours was like this? This a kit from Ebay.: A look online shows both plugs and bolt-on connectors....my 'guess' is yours has been replaced by the PO?? I didn't see any pics of OB fuel pump assemblies in a quick Google check. Td

Do the H6 need a valve adjustment? If so, might be worth it to get it all done while in there anyway. I would imagine THAT would add up too....24 valves? My .02. GL, Td

Since I can't update the original thread, i'll add it here. I replaced the starter w/a known good used one w/79K - maybe a little better, but not much. I was then messing w/the Neg. battery terminal and noticed there is a plastic piece that's like a 'guard' around the bottom and causes the terminal to sit 1/8" up on the post. I decided to 'risk it' and cut it off, then reattached the terminal to the post. Besides sitting lower on the post it also allows it tighten up better, as the post appears to be slightly tapered. Results? It cranks better/stronger/faster.....so I'm thinking I had a bad ground all along. TD

They are a common upgrade on turbo cars when upgrading the fuel injectors...I've not read about any reliability issues. I HAVE read they are noisy, but not on my Forester. There are different sizes, too - @ least a 195lph and 255lph. The 195 is plenty for any stock Subaru (including the WRX/STi - as their stock pumps flow around 175lph.) GL, TD