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I SO hate those damn things...they are impossible to read. I'm not finding anything definitive. But a bad valve, timing belt issues, extreme weather changes, etc. come up. How many miles? What recent maintenance has been done or issues have occurred? Did you get the codes checked again? TD

In our NW- Subaru-prolific area $1K is a very good deal for a Legacy OB w/bad HG's. Sounds like a Limited trim, so even better. I've 'flipped' about 3 of these and paid over $1500 each time- even after talking 'em down a bit. I've heard/read the same complaint of the Forester's rear seats, too. GL, TD

Hi, I've seen this over on SubaruForester.org...suggest you search on there, too. GL, TD

I know they last longer...are they direct replacements for older cars' bulbs, too?

A couple of things to check: What's the AT's fluid level? Yours also has an AT spin-on filter, I believe. If it were clogged, it may cause your symptoms? GL, TD

After losing Reverse when I had my '95 Legacy's 4EAT Flushed (to address torque bind), I'm hesitant to recommend a flush on any Subaru over 100K that's never had the AT fluid touched. I'm in the drain>>refill 3x camp. Is it a valid argument that a flush can dislodge old fluid deposits leading to leaking seals? I don't know what a flush does internally, but if applies a reverse, or higher-than-normal, pressure to the AT's internals, I can see it being an issue. Thanks, Td

Technically, the XT6 - ER27- in '88-91 qualifies, I believe. Next up was the SVX-EG33 -'91-97. Then the 2001+ Outback had the EZ30 depending on the trim (LL Bean, Limited, etc.).....which is probably what you're after? Td

Best 'guess': You're in 'limp/fail-safe mode' due to the knock sensor, which lowers performance....not sure why there's not a code?? A cracked KS needs fixed regardless - used or new ($50 online).

Sounds like a perfect candidate for replacement transmission. If you can do the work yourself and save the labor, get the used one. If you can't, then getting it rebuilt might be worth it if there are any issues. You'll get years more service out of your OBS....just keep the maintenance up-to-date. Td

Hi, Welcome to the Board. You can search on here for "sell or keep", "replace or fix", or similar terms, to see what others have done. What is the transmission doing that makes it suspect? New gear oil can help in some cases. Is the car solid otherwise? Not rusting out, etc? (If you're from Keizer, OR probably not too bad.) If so, I'd look @ replacing the transmission w/a lower mileage used one... And keep driving it. According to THIS CHART yours is a Push-style (vs. Pull) clutch and has a 3.90 final drive ratio (and the EJ22)....You can use a trans from a Legacy that matches those specs, too. Look on car-part.com for used trans in your area (but it probably won't show the Legacy interchange) for $500....usually can be shipped for another $150. It sounds like you could change it yourself. Watch craigslist or on subaru sites, too. GL, Td

Yes...and as noted by 'grossgary' there are some things to consider putting turbo engine into an NA car....the crossmember is a big one. If you're new to all this, please do yourself a favor and check some of the Build threads on various Subaru forums. GL, Td

See below.

Edit: ^ What he said. :-) You'll find on here that just about everyone recommends OEM wires. I've also seen Magnecor and NGK used. I bought my NGK wires from NAPA (had to order them). Don't go cheap! Plugs - unfortunately, due to their cost, the stock NGK's are again your best bet. But I've had a couple Subie mechanics whom I trust tell me the equivalent copper version are fine, too....you'll just need to change them sooner...but if you've done plugs on the 2.5 DOHC you know it's not a job you'll want to do again soon! Td

'transmission fluid' = Automatic? I wouldn't get back into the T-belt just yet.... Plugs and wires - condition/age?

eulogious, Nice write-up and thanks for taking the time to look into it. Maybe Sticky material? Td

Hi, Are you 100% sure you're T-belt is on correctly? Did you count the teeth on the belt between marks or just go off the marks on the belt and covers? Did you replace all the pulleys?...The belt 'screaching' makes me think a pulley is bad. Did you replace the belt tensioner? Or reuse the original one? If original, did you slowly compress it, per the FSM? GL, TD (500 posts FTW!-Finally!)

Should've clarified...the AT injectors are likely not compatible w/Manual rails (and vice versa) on the '89-91, but, Yes, the rails will interchange/fit the intake manifold mounts. Thanks

Hi, In your pics, the bottom pink ones are EJ22 Turbo injectors and avl. only on the '91-94 SS and '92-94 TW - 5-speed and Automatics - flow ~370cc. The NA versions flow about 250 (I think). So, did you use those as you listed a '90 Manual injector as your replacment? Very surprised your car ran so well, if so. Also, pretty sure the rails are different in the '89-91 AT vs. '89-91 5-speeds. But if your '90 Manual injectors looked the same as the EJ22T injectors, that would mean the '89-91 5-speed rails match the turbos....which isn't in line w/what I've seen online....check out the Legacy Central BBS. Always been curious about WHY Subaru used all these different injectors? Thanks, Td

Just get another used one that can be turned - if yours can't...all the 2.5 Outbacks/GTs/Foresters/Impreza RS w/the PUSH-style hydraulic clutch should work...make sure they use a real FW lathe to resurface it. You can also use an '06-07 WRX FW, but you'll need the matching PP and disk...running that on my '98 Forester in the stock 5-speed. GL, Td

There is another post on here today w/the smell of fuel. His was a loose plug wire, but he had a rough idle. I'd check your plugs and wires - easy stuff - first. Check for vac leaks? Was the HG replaced w/engine in the car? Just wondering if all the 'stuff' got reconnected if it was pulled. No CEL's correct? Td

- 5-speed only avl. on non-turbo version. - Will you carry others/lots of stuff into the mtns? If so you'll want the turbo. Remember, as noted above, altitude affects NA cars more than turbo cars, so if the NA cars feels strong in Sacramento, it'll feel 'less so' in the Sierras. Edit: Going from basically sea level to 6k feet, will be noticeable. - The WRX, which is very similar mechanically to the XT/Turbo, has seen a decline in reliability on CR on the '09 model and is Below Average, whereas the XT is just Average. The non-turbo Impreza is Better than Average, and the Forester is Much Better than Average. - I'd get a 100K extended warranty on the XT model, just for peace of mind. That'll cover your 7 years/14K a year usage. GL, TD

Hi, I found This LINK that shows the '99 was an odd year for the MAF sensor. The 2.2/EJ22 Legacy and the EJ22/EJ25 Impreza/Forester used your 22680AA29A. But they were also used by: 2002-2000 Infiniti G20 2001-2000 Infiniti I30 2001-2000 Nissan Maxima 2001-2000 Nissan Sentra 2.0 Liters Which means you may find one @ a local used parts/wrecking yard. Also, there was a recall on the MAF sensors on the Forester - maybe on the Legacy, too....check this LINK. I'd call your local Subaru dealer, tell them your VIN # and see if the recall has been taken care of. Gl, TD

Cool! Sounds like you need a new mechanic! The unburned fuel (smell) was the clue...he just went to fuel pump vs. ignition issue. TD

Hi, Since no one who knows for sure has responded, I'll suggest that the FP could be the culprit even @ 105K. On older Subies the fuel pump is accessed from the top - directly behind the rear seats, pull up the carpet and there should be a cover. Remove that and you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly. Like THIS. And another LINK for the older Outbacks. GL, Td

Google is your friend! Compression: Here's one proper way, per a Google search: -Make sure the engine has been warmed up before beginning the test, to ensure that the oil has been warmed up. A cold engine will not test correctly. -Disable the ignition module or coil. -Insert the compression tester into one cylinder spark plug hole at a time. -Hold the throttle to full open position to ensure the engine gets adequate air intake. -Crank the engine continually for at least five to 10 full revolutions to obtain an accurate reading on the compression tester. -Record the reading for each cylinder. If any of them vary 10 percent or more from each other a problem may exist in one or more cylinders. If the variance is greater than 10 percent, specialized testing equipment may be required to fully diagnose the problem. -If all cylinder readings are within 10 percent of each other, no further testing is required and compression is considered optimal. Not sure what the NA compression reading should be, but appears having them all w/in 10% is more important than the actual #???....(Turbos compression is about 150psi) Idle screw: I don't have FSM info for the '90-91 (check THIS ), but does the TPS have white marks on the side screws? Are they lined up? If so, maybe the TPS wasn't touched and you can just adjust the idle screw so RPMs are about 700. Do it a bit and let it settle...@ least on mine it was slow to respond. Timing: Check this LINK . (Anyone know what happened to Endwrench?) Here's ONE w/PICs. Keep @ it, TD