wtdash

Correct...not 'sposed to touch the TB's top screw. They were only on the '90-91 cars, BTW. Sounds like yours has been messed with....should be a post or 2 on here about it. Also, check out the Legacy Central BBS, which is specific to the '89-94 Legacy. The '90-91 Autos had gray top injectors; the 5-speeds were different. No offense to Twitch, but I think you could use any year from '90-94, but you'll need the fuel rails AND injectors for the '90-91 5-speeds or '92-94 as they are different. (PM me if you need injectors.) Also, I hope it doesn't sound like we're asking you to 'throw parts @ it', but everything mentioned has been a useful fix/upgrade on others' cars, and helps eliminate existing issues and future problems. I'd put money on the KS as causing most of your issues...a cracked KS will put the car in 'limp' mode....although @ that point you'd likely get a code. The '95 ('96?) got an upgrade KS w/a white connector, which may be on a used '89-94 that has been fixed....just an option if a used one is avl. GL, TD

Unfortunately, Misfires are common on the '97-99 EJ25. Check the threads on here for what others have done to fix it...or that didn't fix it. :-( Yes, a burnt valve would cause it, but should show up in a poor idle, etc. New OEM plugs and wires? Add those if not. GL, Td

Welcome aboard. Install the new parts and let us know. HIGHLY suggested to use OEM plugs/wires, if you've not already read that on here. Subies are picky that way. NGK and Magnecor are OK replacements, too, IMHO. GL, Td P.s. Telluride is an amazing place!

Can you use a brass/metal 90° piece to connect @ the corners? Like below? They are probably cheaper than an OEM hose. I've cut the hardened parts off hoses and reused them (may be too ghetto, though).

Don't know the rating, but I'd guess around 100-110lph. If you check out my Forester link above you can see how it connected via a plug....I've only dealt w/my '90 Legacy and '98 Forester - both had plugs. So yours was like this? This a kit from Ebay.: A look online shows both plugs and bolt-on connectors....my 'guess' is yours has been replaced by the PO?? I didn't see any pics of OB fuel pump assemblies in a quick Google check. Td

Do the H6 need a valve adjustment? If so, might be worth it to get it all done while in there anyway. I would imagine THAT would add up too....24 valves? My .02. GL, Td

Since I can't update the original thread, i'll add it here. I replaced the starter w/a known good used one w/79K - maybe a little better, but not much. I was then messing w/the Neg. battery terminal and noticed there is a plastic piece that's like a 'guard' around the bottom and causes the terminal to sit 1/8" up on the post. I decided to 'risk it' and cut it off, then reattached the terminal to the post. Besides sitting lower on the post it also allows it tighten up better, as the post appears to be slightly tapered. Results? It cranks better/stronger/faster.....so I'm thinking I had a bad ground all along. TD

They are a common upgrade on turbo cars when upgrading the fuel injectors...I've not read about any reliability issues. I HAVE read they are noisy, but not on my Forester. There are different sizes, too - @ least a 195lph and 255lph. The 195 is plenty for any stock Subaru (including the WRX/STi - as their stock pumps flow around 175lph.) GL, TD

Walbro pumps are <$100, but overkill for a stock engine. I'm not sure about interchange, but NASIOC has 'em for sale, if a WRX/STi, low-mileage/used is an option - LINK - you may need an install kit. (I put an STi pump on my '90 Legacy, w/the aid of a Walbro install kit, IIRC.) Good luck and enjoy the new ride! Td

Yeah 'not worth the effort' is what I'm thinking now, too. Thanks!

I have the EJ25D (Phase 1, DOHC) out of my '98 Forester. It went thru 3 sets of head gaskets per the previous owner - the original set and 2 replacements. They used a local mechanic, in the middle of nowhere MT, who actually knew Subarus from our brief discussion. Supposedly the heads were machined and OEM HG used. But the fact that the HG blew twice leads me to think something else is wrong. The car ran, but not well, and I didn't do any compression tests, etc. before removing it. How do I test / verify / ensure the block is still good before getting the heads done and putting it back together for another project? Can the rod bearings be visually inspected (by a mechanic - not me)? Thanks, Td

Did you check the wiring while the pan was off? There is a POST (I can't find it!) about a dented AT fluid pan that I subscribed to on an Outback...my 1st swap I pushed up on the AT trans pan and dented it. This BROKE a wire that caused some issues - can't recall exactly what - it did also throw a code. Dropped the pan, repaired the wire and I was good to go. Just (another) thought.

Hmm...adding to hi-jack a good idea? Mid-1992 Legacy's got driver's-only airbags, as did the Impreza since its inception in '93. Both got Dual Air Bags in 1995. Source: Cars101.com

AT Trans fluid Capacity is 8.8 US Qts, per the FSM. Doesn't specify the TC capacity separately.

Just to clarify...the fluid shows on the dipstick, correct? It's a PITA to fill these 4EATs as the difference between Low and Full is about a pint, and fresh fluid can be hard to see on the 'stick...so it may still be low.

The EJ22 had the EGR valve on the Automatic, not the 5-speed, AND the dual-port exhaust heads in '95, which match your EJ25D exactly. The newer EJ22's work too, just make sure it has the EGR and their single-port exhaust header/Y-pipe. Other than minimal vac line rerouting, it's plug-n-play...the Forester's ECU will run it. Also, you checked your heat shields? They've been known to rattle....Just checking the simple stuff, too. GL, Td

Hi, Post your trans ID # so I/we can double-check trans vs. rear diff ratio, but if it drove fine AFTER the swap before acting up, that's not the issue. I briefly drove a car w/a 4.11 trans/3.90 rear dif and it wasn't as bad as you describe. On my own Legacy I had the delayed AWD engagement and fixed it by following the instructions on here to file down the grooves (POST) on the rear output shaft that hooks up to the tranfer clutches. But the fact that the FWD fuse does NOT help, means it's electrical or completely broken.....if the FWD fuse DID work, you'd get rid of the binding since the Duty C disconnects the rear drive....but the binding in a straight line has me puzzled..unless it completely destroyed the tranfer clutches???..... So.....if it's an electrical issue, look under there and see if you find something loose, etc. IIRC, the Duty C is enclosed in the rear housing (PIC), so unfortunately it has to come off to replace - you don't have to remove the trans to fix, but it's still a big job, IMHO. Also, you should be getting the 'Power light flashes' and can then check the codes. If you have a replacement rear housing, I recommend filing down the grooves b4 installing it...save some more grief later. GL TD

99.9% sure it's the roll-connector/ clockspring...same EXACT symptons on my '98 Forester - no Horn/Cruise/ABS light on. Replaced the CS and back in business. Pulling the steering wheel isn't that tough...getting the damn airbag connectors apart and fishing the harness wires out was a PITA though. You'll have no problem w/it. Couple of links for reference #1 and #2....may have to register (free) to see all the pics. GL, TD

Covered extensively on here.. Please SEARCH and come back w/questions. Td

According to this site - right here on the USMB - the phase 2 EJ25 BLOCK started in '99 for all Subarus. The Legacy line - OB/GT - retained the DOHC heads; the rest went SOHC. (No, I don't know why. ) Edit#1: Our friends on SubaruForester.org confirm this HERE. Edit#2: I believe the Phase 2 had the 8 bolts between trans/engine as well. So, that leads me to believe that the '99 DOHC heads should swap over to an original '99+ SOHC engine....and that of course means the engine harness - on the DOHC intake manifold- can be reused to ensure all the sensors and wiring stay the same, which I'm guessing is why you want to swap heads? Edit#3: And since I'm one of many that have done it, you can still swap in a '95 EJ22 (block and heads) from an AT into the '99 Legacy OB/GT and it'll run like stock (just slower). Td

^+1 Stock boost is <9psi. Using an MBC it can be upped to 13 before hitting factory fuel cut. There are 'fuel cut defenders' which can let you go higher. 19psi is the 2-Bar MAP sensor max. The stock VF11 turbo is probably maxed around 14 anyway. Popular upgrade is a WRX TD04 and '06+ IC - but requires custom install to re-route hoses and wiring. You'll want to consider fuel pump and injector upgrades over 14 psi, too. Stock turbo 4EAT is stronger than 5-speed, from what I've read...as stated, keep it cool! The WRX suspension bits should work..not my strong point...there is good info on Legacy Central. GL, Td

The oil line to the turbo or the return line (a rubber-type hose) to the head could possibly develop a leak but neither requires replacing the turbo. Much more likely it's just a cam seal or similar. Has the T-belt been done? If not, that's a good excuse to reseal the easy to-get-to stuff. Side-jack: Yes, turbo cars are higher maintence...but once you're boost addicted you don't much care. :-) (Not sure the Loyale or Jetta (turbo diesel?) are good examples of turbo's performance advantage - they're both kinda slow in NA form anyway.)

Hi, Check out this POST on Legacy Central about 1/2 way down where there are links to the FSM testing of the TPS. Gl, TD

I know just enough to be dangerous, and a detailed explanation makes it useful for the next person w/an issue. I'll update this quote when I replace the starter, which sounds like the route to take. Thanks to all for you input....