wtdash

YOU ARE THE WINNER. I'm not clear on Why, since I can't log my MAF voltage, but I swapped in a WRX MAF, which can flow more air before maxing out, and the Misfire is gone! Thanks for your and everyone else's input. Todd

Dude...You just read my mind, I was looking @ the Equus Innova 3160 5 mins ago.....and didn't catch that piece about the ABS for Big3 only. I'm comparing the 3130 and 3140(OBD1, too) after reading your post. Thanks, Td

This was recommended by a couple of tuners and is close to the stock WRX gap. I believe the stock EJ22T is same as the NA @ .044, but w/the higher boost levels (~18 psi) I expect to achieve, I was told to narrow the gap. Currently running the BK6RE; Had the PFR6B (JDM EJ20) in before. Thanks

Yeah, I keep finding things that should work, w/out the cost of the SSM...even some scary cheap ones on ebait. Thanks for the replies.

Edit: FWIW, I was able to use a 'home-built' SSM plug to USB adapter on my laptop with Evoscan. This POST shows the info. Used a FTDI chip cable to USB adapter along w/a Subaru Metra. The Evoscan has both OBD1 and OBD2 compatible ROM (?) files that'll work. The parameters aren't alll there (or functional) but I was able to log RPM vs. AFR's along w/a few other basic EcU functions. I posted in the wrong forum (WTH? Am I a Noob?) about scan tools for issues on my '98 Forester HERE. After searching for a couple of days it appears there are multiple versions of the SSM. And it appears that '99 was a change-over year, @ least on Imprezas, and probably Foresters. Anyone know for sure? I need to be able to do real-time data logging and some of the 3rd-party software supports the SSM (such as ecuExplorer), but appears to depend on the version. Thanks!

Plugs were brand new and gapped per the Tuner's recommendation - .030. Wires aren't new but only 1-2 years old. I should've included that info in the OP. Please see above.

Hi, I'm trying to tune my '98 Forester w/a Greddy Emanage Ultimate Piggy-back system after installing a turbo along w/other supporting mods....it is connected to the stock ECU. Whenever I get to 4800-ish RPM the car starts to stumble and run poorly and if I keep my foot in it throws Misfire codes on all 4 cylinders. Otherwise, the car runs well. I was @ tuning shop this weekend and the tuner's software didn't go back far enough to read what the ECU was doing in real time, so we couldn't figure out what it might be doing/seeing to cause it to misfire. Is there anything I can use to see what the ECU is doing in 'real time'? Background info: Here's the good news from yesterday's Dyno tune in Arlington, WA (near Seattle) - I'm in N. Idaho: 1. About 230/230 @ 13 psi. My goal was 250/250 @ 18psi - maybe even 20psi- which we almost reached @ just 13, so there's a possibility I can see 275/275. 2. The car cruised over and back mostly trouble-free. It threw the Misfire code climbing the pass on the way over, even though I tried to stay out of boost. Bad News: 1. Couldn't duplicate it consistenly. Most of the time the car would hit about 4800 and misfire and fall off. 2. We replaced plugs , gapped by Dom (tuner) to .030 - No Change- (I had put 300 miles on mine getting there w/out the correct tune so we thought 'maybe' that was the issue) 3. We disconnected the EGR vac lines - Dom thought there might be an issue - No Change 4. We changed my vac lines as the pressure sensor (the one that connects to the stock map sensor) was on the same vac line as the stock Fuel Press. Reg.. - No Change. 5. We gave up @ 5p.m. after starting @ 10:30a.m. :-(. (Dom had numerous other customers show up - busiest Saturday he's had - so we worked on it intermittently.) The car runs/idles better (not perfect), but whenever I get to about 4800 RPM, it starts to stumble and if I keep my foot in the thottle it throw the CEL for 'misfire' on all 4 cylinders....plus occasionally I get the P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold which is probably just a secondary code due to the Misfire. Since my car's ECU is old, Dom couldn't 'read it' real time to see exactly what, if anything, the ECU was doing to cause the misfire. His scan tool is only '99+. Dom says it's most likely electrical/electronic vs. mechanical. The AFR's were fine right up to the point of failure...it's like something in the ECU says "No More" and causes the misfire, but Dom really didn't know what to check. Thanks Todd

Correct - The brackets only hold the radiator in place. Time for a repair or replace. It might be worth it to rinse the area off, and making sure you're properly protected, see where it's leaking w/the car running. On the non-turbos the cooling system is pretty basic, so it shouldn't be too hard to find a leak. GL, TD

What year and model/engine? The EJ22 stock plug should be replaced, but the EJ25's platinum should be OK to 60K, which is good since they are a PITA to replace. The wires should be replaced if sparking. I'd double-check how they're routed to ensure they're not in harm's way. Td

Neither did mine ('90 L Wagon), but I think it's for the Height Adjustment avl. on the LS/LSi models?? Yep - see below. (sorry for the off-topic Hi Jack) Also, for posterity sake here's the LINK to the USMB's Repair Manual thread on this. Although the pics are 'dead' the description is still pretty good and he gives a diagram of the pin-out to ID the correct wires. This worked great when my tranfer clutches were causing issues and I had a delay in AWD....w/this mod I just hit the switch (when it was slippery) and had AWD all the time. Edit: Found a pic Thanks to Legacy777: Td

I've put OB struts on my Legacy and the shop had no issues aligning it....if you note the front top bolt orientation, and put it back it'll be close, @ least it was in my case. They are plug and play from a '98>>'95. The spacers aren't necessary, although they may gain you some lift....there are posts about it on here...somewhere. The only 'issue' is the rear tires will be closer to the front of the rear fender's lip. I 'think' the locating/trailing arms need to be from an OB to fix that, but wasn't worth the trouble in my experience. I ran the 205/70R-15 (same as OB tires) w/out issue. Bigger tires will fit and there's more info on that here, too. Also, you have either a 3.9 (5-speed) or 4.11 (AT) FD ratio in your '95, and w/the bigger tires you'll take a hit in performance, as the OB has a 4.44 (if it was an AT). I never noticed it, but if you do a lot of mountain driving, you might. GL, Td

Their 'interchange' lists are very limiting. They only include cars w/the exact same transmission. Most of the time if the FD Ratio matches, the trans will work among EJ/EG/EZ-engine based Subarus. But like noted above the '98 is a Push-style and the '00 is a Pull, per this ubiquitous trans chart. It'll still work, but they'll need the '98's clutch/PP/FW and shifter fork/slave cylinder, etc. Gl, Td

Two last comments...your brake bias will change. I don't understand all the technical details, but Legacy777/Josh has a spreadsheet that provides the hard numbers, if interested. And remember you can't go back to smaller wheels. 15" won't clear the WRX brakes either. Td

A good upgrade are the brakes from a '96-99 Outback or Forester...they are the same/similar to the brakes on the '91-94 Legacy Turbo. A better upgrade is the WRX setup mentioned above. I've done both the OB and WRX upgrades, and you'll need the calipers/pads, rotors, and brackets. The brackets will bolt right up to your hubs. NASIOC has the WRX items for sale on regular basis and usually less than $150 for a complete front setup. Remember, your original spare tire won't fit the fronts, so you'll have to swap back to front if you get a flat. GL, TD

I'm sorry that I don't have a "Been there, done that- Fixed", but something I've read about to try, is pouring water on the sensor (not the wires/plug) to see if it helps eliminate possibilities 1 by 1...I'M NOT sure this is the smartest idea, but a local Subaru mech I trust DID tell me 'Subarus are very resilient to water'....his reference was to spraying down the engine bay to clean it, but should apply here, too. Also, check the knock sensor for cracks. Common issue w/the <'95 EJ22's. A bad KS will put the car in 'limp mode' but should still drive. GL, TD

According to my Owner's Manual: The maximum trailer weight is 2000#. Max. tongue weight is 200#. If the trailer weight exceeds 1000#, trailer brakes are required. It makes no distinction between sedan or wagon, FWD or AWD, or 5-speed vs. Automatic. I did see this on 'cars101.com' for the '98 and '99 Legacy, which isn't a whole lot different than the '93: 1999, 1998: manual trans 1000#, automatic trans 2000# Tranny coolers: I mounted a small one in front of the radiator. IIRC, I routed it from the trans, into my extra cooler, then into the stock cooler built-in to the radiator. I also disconnect it in the winter as I've read it'll keep it too cool, and won't shift into OD. GL, Td

There are many posts on seating the TC in the transmission - it's kind of a PITA, and it'll mess up the tranny's pump if not seated correctly. You also may want to replace a couple of the seals on the shaft connected to the TC. I hold the TC in place w/Zip-ties, 'til the engine is in, otherwise if the TC gets bumped and comes loose you'll be starting over - remove the Zips before tightening the bolts. When refilling the trans, do a little @ time, since it's easy to overfill. Car should be running, go thru the gears, and then check the fluid - Repeat. I've read on here there's only a PINT (not Qt) difference between Low and Full on the dipstick. GL, Td

Hi, This Gear Ratio Calculator may be useful, too. Since I may be looking for a replacement 5-speed for my '98 Forester in the future I've also noticed the 5th gear ratios for other '96-99 Subarus w/the 4.11 FD ratio. On that tranny chart, the OB has the taller 5th gear - 0.871. The GT, Forester, and Impreza RS both have the lower RPM 5th gear - 0.780, if I'm reading it right. I'm surprised since the Forester uses the same height of tires - ~26" - as the Outback (Forester L: 205/70R-15 and Forester S: 215/60R-16). Regarding the 6-speed, I'd look thru NASIOC's threads, as it's a common upgrade for the WRX guys. Plus I think there are some 'gotchas' to watch out for w/the speed sensor changes, etc, on the newer trans. Td

What do you want to 'reset'? Search on here for reading the trouble codes, if that's where you're headed. Otherwise, disconnecting the Negative battery should work...I usually leave it off overnight. GL, TD

+1 That one's a PITA to put back on as you have to remove an AC bolt. Not hard, just extra work! (Yes, been there/done that!):-\ GL, TD

Hi, I'd check for Vacuum leaks and try cleaning the Idle air control valve (IAC). Search on here for both issues, and others. GL, TD

+1 for lifters @ startup. Since you know the history, fix the little things and keep driving it. Get AAA if you're worried about being stranded (provided you have cell coverage on your commute). Cheaper than a new/used car. The hard 1-2 shift seems to be a fairly common issue, but not necessarily bad. I'd suggest replacing (not flushing) the trans fluid if it's been 30K. The rear transfer case can be replaced w/out removing the trans, to fix your AWD, too. EDIT: Pull the CEL codes by doing THIS. The AT light is most likely as stated. I'd get a 2nd opinion on the fuel smell source. How much oil is leaking? When the TB was changed 10K ago, did you/mechanic notice it? GL, Td

The 'goo' was for later phase 2 EJ251 and EJ253 but they also got new HG, as needed, I believe. Td

USDM Legacy's harness connectors are the same '89-91 and changed in '92. The wiring is slightly different between turbo and NA engines too. For instance, the Cam/Crank sensors' wiring is swapped (I always wondered Why? on that one!), but the ECU connectors are the same from '89-94. Td

Check your VIN w/a dealer to see if yours was fixed on a MAF recall. If not, take it in to see if they'll cover it. More INFO. GL, Td