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It may be the MAF. Does the car ever die while driving? But immediately start back up? That's what happened on my car when the MAF died. Does the AT transmission shift thru the gears properly - No delays? Have you checked the tranny fluid recently? GL, Td

99% sure your intake manifold has to match the heads so the bolt holes line up....and the head gasket should match the block. But, yeah, the wiring on the EJ22 and EJ20 should be the same.....although we didn't get the EJ20 over here, 'til the EJ20 Turbo in the '02 WRX. I'm not sure in your situtaion, but I know if we in the US put the 2.5 DOHC heads on the the EJ22 it LOWERS the compression ratio, which would produce less power......so do some research. GL, TD

Unless it's one of the recommended ones on here, they don't last. I bought an Autozone one because I had to, and it only lasted 6 months....boot looked fine, too. I also had an original one fail after 180K+ miles...the boot was mostly intact; I only knew it was bad because the car would barely move while one end of the CV joint turned while the wheel/tire did not....and there was a 'bit' of noise. Td

Do some more Searching to confirm, but the EJ25/2.5 from '96-2003? had HG issues- internal and external leaks depending on year. IF you can confirm they've had the latest HG installed, then I'd feel OK buying one, otherwise 'not so much'. Read up on 'torque bind' if you're going w/an Automatic, and wheel bearings for the Impreza/Forester, among a few things that come to mind. GL, Td

Yes..just turn the crank on the front while looking down thru the hole 'til you see the holes in the flexplate. Stick the bolt - if it'll fit- in to hold and then remove the front crank bolt. I HIGHLY recommend using a flare wrench or even an 'easy out' type of socket so as not to strip those 4 darn TC bolts....12mm, IIRC. Treat them w/respect as they will cause lots of grief if you don't. You can get a ratchet/socket on there and kind of wedge it against the side of the access hole for leverage - hard to describe- Depending on your dexterity you might consider removing the TB, which isn't that tough - unplug the TPS/coil pack/IAC, disconnect the coolant lines, mark and remove the throttle/CC cables, and 4 bolts on the TB. GL, Td

Not the greatest pic, but it's just under the throttle body - up to the right of the black plastic cover he's holding, on the back of the engine:

Thanks guys....appreciate the replies.

DA of the day award: Didn't label the wires when I pulled them to swap the engine. The OEM replacements aren't labeled either. There are 2 the same length and the other 2 are both different lengths - one is much longer than the others. Does it matter where they go as long as the right port on the coil goes to the correct cylinder's plug? I've searched and either it's not here or using wrong search terms. I remember my Dakota's V8 had a different length wires and they had to go to the correct cylinder from the distributor....so just checking. Thanks Td

Thanks all....it's 'none of the above'. But I appreciate the replies. (The one empty plug is the 02, but I ID'd that one.) There are 2 wires - 1 white and 1 black w/white stripe - going into the plug. I'm going to just fire it up and see if I get a CEL...hopefully tomorrow. Thanks, Td

Sir N, I went ahead and put it back together before I thought to take a better pic. :-( But thanks for the offer. Td

Hi, There is only 1 wire for each plug of the black/green connectors, as shown in your pic (look @ the green connectors). But I've read on here not to use those for diagnostics on the '95+ cars (they DO work on the '90-94 Legacy/'93-94Impreza). Black is for stored codes; green is for active codes; use both to clear codes....again only 'for sure' safe to use on the older, OBD1 cars. I'm 99% sure your car is OBD2 and has the port under the driver's side dash - usually has a little cover to open - EXAMPLE. I'd find a local auto parts store that'll let you borrow (or do it for you) their scanner. Although I've done my share of 4EAT replacements, I'm no mechanic and can't diagnose your issues. I would start w/a drain/refill/drive a couple miles/shift manually thru the gears, repeat 3x, - Don't Flush it. It'll cost you a few gallons of ATF, which is a lot cheaper than the rebuild/replace tranny option- I wouldn't worry about using synthetic for trouble-shooting. Also, I'd search on here some more about the filter/screen...sure it's been covered. GL, TD

Unfortunately, it's not the O2 as that plug is more oval and I'm very familiar w/it (due to changing it multiple times on previous Subies). But I appreciate the reply. Edit: It's more a triangle shape. :-)

EDIT: well, not really, but I got the engine installed and started it up - No CELs, so hoping/guessing it was 'extra'.. Hi, 1998 Forester - 5-speed. I'm reinstalling the engine and failed to label the plug circled below. I can't find its mate (it might be unused). It's on the 5-speed's bellhousing near where the 3 big, main plugs connect. Thanks, TD

DOH! Yes, it will (if it's an AT w/the EGR)...good catch, MR. G. TD

Not stupid...gotta learn somehow....a Search would tell you that the tires will likely rub on the strut's spring perches, so although the wheels fit the hubs, the tires won't physically fit. The Outback/Forester struts have higher perches, plus they're taller to provide lift (along w/body spacers, etc.). They also may rub as you described. Td

Yes, but the front end will sit higher than the rear- impreza/forester has different rear strut-mount height - see my POST. You can use 'saggy butt spacers' to even it out a bit. If the Forester is the S model (likely w/leather seats), the tires are 215/60R-16 - I have an S in my shop right now. I know the seats will fit, just can't confirm how much higher they are. If they have seat height adjustment you should be OK. TD P.s. If you part out the Forester, please let me know...may be a few items I could use, if it's the gray interior.

.....If the speedo isn't working, there's a good chance one of the 2 VSS sensors isn't getting/sending the correct info to the TCU....although dropping into Reverse is 'new to me'. I forgot to ask, does the Power or AT Light flash when you start it up? If so, check the Codes HERE. I just think you should rule out the easier fixes b4 swapping trans to have the same issues. Td

But it goes thru the gears, incl. Reverse fine? If so, then I'd just have the rear transfer case repaired....they don't even have to drop the trans to do it. You've tried changing (not flushing) the AT fluid, too? Td

$900 is steep, unless the miles are verifable AND low. $150 seems too cheap. I've paid around $400 each for the 3 I've bought. I may get some flack for this statement, but I wouldn't buy a 4EAT over a 100K unless I KNEW it'd been serviced regularly...I've put 3 of these in Subarus myself. But just like any other part on any other car, if maintenance is neglected it'll eventually cost you more in the end. I think a warranty on the labor and parts is worth it......But check w/another shop, if avl., for a quote. I'd also ensure the shop is familiar w/Subies. Lastly, ensure you're getting the correct trans for your car....FWD vs. AWD, Legacy vs. Impreza, etc.....there's also the final drive ratio to consider, which may differ....just because it's a Subaru 4EAT doesn't mean it's correct. But you should also be able use other years, too. Ok, off my soap box! GL, Td

Go to tirerack.com, choose the Wheels section, enter the correct vehicle info for what they fit ('08 Avenger), click one of the wheel choices and it will give you the bolt pattern, or Search online for 'bolt pattern'. Your Impreza is 5x100, and it has to be exactly 5x100 - not 5x108, 5x114.3, etc. Then go to http://www.1010tires.com/Tiresizecalculator.asp and compare tire sizes. Those in the ad are much taller than your Impreza's, and may rub/screw up your speedo/slow down your acceleration/etc. GL, Td

To address the 5-speed swap question: It all depends on your skill level, time the car can be out-of-commission, and access to the necessary tools and work-space. There are detailed swaps online - read a few to get an idea what your getting into. Cost will depend on a bunch of factors, so you'll need to do some research there, too. But finding a dual-range 5-speed will be almost impossible as they were never offered in the US for the Legacy/Impreza/Forester. They do show up for sale on here and other US Subie sites, but don't hold your breath. The Aussies got 'em - not sure who else. GL, Td

You'll need the GOH-M24 Subaru remotes (or equivalent). I'd just buy 1 or 2 on ebay, program 'em (info HERE) and go from there....unless your aftermarket one includes some advanced functions - remote start, etc. GL, Td

+1 on the connector check. Did you check for CEL codes before/after the swap? GL, TD

^^Thanks for the pic....I was wondering if this worked on the old and new tensioners. Td

The O-ring is on the lower part of the block behind the oil pump....Check out the Beer Garage....worked for me. GL, Td