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Their 'interchange' lists are very limiting. They only include cars w/the exact same transmission. Most of the time if the FD Ratio matches, the trans will work among EJ/EG/EZ-engine based Subarus. But like noted above the '98 is a Push-style and the '00 is a Pull, per this ubiquitous trans chart. It'll still work, but they'll need the '98's clutch/PP/FW and shifter fork/slave cylinder, etc. Gl, Td

Two last comments...your brake bias will change. I don't understand all the technical details, but Legacy777/Josh has a spreadsheet that provides the hard numbers, if interested. And remember you can't go back to smaller wheels. 15" won't clear the WRX brakes either. Td

A good upgrade are the brakes from a '96-99 Outback or Forester...they are the same/similar to the brakes on the '91-94 Legacy Turbo. A better upgrade is the WRX setup mentioned above. I've done both the OB and WRX upgrades, and you'll need the calipers/pads, rotors, and brackets. The brackets will bolt right up to your hubs. NASIOC has the WRX items for sale on regular basis and usually less than $150 for a complete front setup. Remember, your original spare tire won't fit the fronts, so you'll have to swap back to front if you get a flat. GL, TD

I'm sorry that I don't have a "Been there, done that- Fixed", but something I've read about to try, is pouring water on the sensor (not the wires/plug) to see if it helps eliminate possibilities 1 by 1...I'M NOT sure this is the smartest idea, but a local Subaru mech I trust DID tell me 'Subarus are very resilient to water'....his reference was to spraying down the engine bay to clean it, but should apply here, too. Also, check the knock sensor for cracks. Common issue w/the <'95 EJ22's. A bad KS will put the car in 'limp mode' but should still drive. GL, TD

According to my Owner's Manual: The maximum trailer weight is 2000#. Max. tongue weight is 200#. If the trailer weight exceeds 1000#, trailer brakes are required. It makes no distinction between sedan or wagon, FWD or AWD, or 5-speed vs. Automatic. I did see this on 'cars101.com' for the '98 and '99 Legacy, which isn't a whole lot different than the '93: 1999, 1998: manual trans 1000#, automatic trans 2000# Tranny coolers: I mounted a small one in front of the radiator. IIRC, I routed it from the trans, into my extra cooler, then into the stock cooler built-in to the radiator. I also disconnect it in the winter as I've read it'll keep it too cool, and won't shift into OD. GL, Td

There are many posts on seating the TC in the transmission - it's kind of a PITA, and it'll mess up the tranny's pump if not seated correctly. You also may want to replace a couple of the seals on the shaft connected to the TC. I hold the TC in place w/Zip-ties, 'til the engine is in, otherwise if the TC gets bumped and comes loose you'll be starting over - remove the Zips before tightening the bolts. When refilling the trans, do a little @ time, since it's easy to overfill. Car should be running, go thru the gears, and then check the fluid - Repeat. I've read on here there's only a PINT (not Qt) difference between Low and Full on the dipstick. GL, Td

Hi, This Gear Ratio Calculator may be useful, too. Since I may be looking for a replacement 5-speed for my '98 Forester in the future I've also noticed the 5th gear ratios for other '96-99 Subarus w/the 4.11 FD ratio. On that tranny chart, the OB has the taller 5th gear - 0.871. The GT, Forester, and Impreza RS both have the lower RPM 5th gear - 0.780, if I'm reading it right. I'm surprised since the Forester uses the same height of tires - ~26" - as the Outback (Forester L: 205/70R-15 and Forester S: 215/60R-16). Regarding the 6-speed, I'd look thru NASIOC's threads, as it's a common upgrade for the WRX guys. Plus I think there are some 'gotchas' to watch out for w/the speed sensor changes, etc, on the newer trans. Td

What do you want to 'reset'? Search on here for reading the trouble codes, if that's where you're headed. Otherwise, disconnecting the Negative battery should work...I usually leave it off overnight. GL, TD

+1 That one's a PITA to put back on as you have to remove an AC bolt. Not hard, just extra work! (Yes, been there/done that!):-\ GL, TD

Hi, I'd check for Vacuum leaks and try cleaning the Idle air control valve (IAC). Search on here for both issues, and others. GL, TD

+1 for lifters @ startup. Since you know the history, fix the little things and keep driving it. Get AAA if you're worried about being stranded (provided you have cell coverage on your commute). Cheaper than a new/used car. The hard 1-2 shift seems to be a fairly common issue, but not necessarily bad. I'd suggest replacing (not flushing) the trans fluid if it's been 30K. The rear transfer case can be replaced w/out removing the trans, to fix your AWD, too. EDIT: Pull the CEL codes by doing THIS. The AT light is most likely as stated. I'd get a 2nd opinion on the fuel smell source. How much oil is leaking? When the TB was changed 10K ago, did you/mechanic notice it? GL, Td

The 'goo' was for later phase 2 EJ251 and EJ253 but they also got new HG, as needed, I believe. Td

USDM Legacy's harness connectors are the same '89-91 and changed in '92. The wiring is slightly different between turbo and NA engines too. For instance, the Cam/Crank sensors' wiring is swapped (I always wondered Why? on that one!), but the ECU connectors are the same from '89-94. Td

Check your VIN w/a dealer to see if yours was fixed on a MAF recall. If not, take it in to see if they'll cover it. More INFO. GL, Td

It may be the MAF. Does the car ever die while driving? But immediately start back up? That's what happened on my car when the MAF died. Does the AT transmission shift thru the gears properly - No delays? Have you checked the tranny fluid recently? GL, Td

99% sure your intake manifold has to match the heads so the bolt holes line up....and the head gasket should match the block. But, yeah, the wiring on the EJ22 and EJ20 should be the same.....although we didn't get the EJ20 over here, 'til the EJ20 Turbo in the '02 WRX. I'm not sure in your situtaion, but I know if we in the US put the 2.5 DOHC heads on the the EJ22 it LOWERS the compression ratio, which would produce less power......so do some research. GL, TD

Unless it's one of the recommended ones on here, they don't last. I bought an Autozone one because I had to, and it only lasted 6 months....boot looked fine, too. I also had an original one fail after 180K+ miles...the boot was mostly intact; I only knew it was bad because the car would barely move while one end of the CV joint turned while the wheel/tire did not....and there was a 'bit' of noise. Td

Do some more Searching to confirm, but the EJ25/2.5 from '96-2003? had HG issues- internal and external leaks depending on year. IF you can confirm they've had the latest HG installed, then I'd feel OK buying one, otherwise 'not so much'. Read up on 'torque bind' if you're going w/an Automatic, and wheel bearings for the Impreza/Forester, among a few things that come to mind. GL, Td

Yes..just turn the crank on the front while looking down thru the hole 'til you see the holes in the flexplate. Stick the bolt - if it'll fit- in to hold and then remove the front crank bolt. I HIGHLY recommend using a flare wrench or even an 'easy out' type of socket so as not to strip those 4 darn TC bolts....12mm, IIRC. Treat them w/respect as they will cause lots of grief if you don't. You can get a ratchet/socket on there and kind of wedge it against the side of the access hole for leverage - hard to describe- Depending on your dexterity you might consider removing the TB, which isn't that tough - unplug the TPS/coil pack/IAC, disconnect the coolant lines, mark and remove the throttle/CC cables, and 4 bolts on the TB. GL, Td

Not the greatest pic, but it's just under the throttle body - up to the right of the black plastic cover he's holding, on the back of the engine:

Thanks guys....appreciate the replies.

DA of the day award: Didn't label the wires when I pulled them to swap the engine. The OEM replacements aren't labeled either. There are 2 the same length and the other 2 are both different lengths - one is much longer than the others. Does it matter where they go as long as the right port on the coil goes to the correct cylinder's plug? I've searched and either it's not here or using wrong search terms. I remember my Dakota's V8 had a different length wires and they had to go to the correct cylinder from the distributor....so just checking. Thanks Td

Thanks all....it's 'none of the above'. But I appreciate the replies. (The one empty plug is the 02, but I ID'd that one.) There are 2 wires - 1 white and 1 black w/white stripe - going into the plug. I'm going to just fire it up and see if I get a CEL...hopefully tomorrow. Thanks, Td

Sir N, I went ahead and put it back together before I thought to take a better pic. :-( But thanks for the offer. Td

Hi, There is only 1 wire for each plug of the black/green connectors, as shown in your pic (look @ the green connectors). But I've read on here not to use those for diagnostics on the '95+ cars (they DO work on the '90-94 Legacy/'93-94Impreza). Black is for stored codes; green is for active codes; use both to clear codes....again only 'for sure' safe to use on the older, OBD1 cars. I'm 99% sure your car is OBD2 and has the port under the driver's side dash - usually has a little cover to open - EXAMPLE. I'd find a local auto parts store that'll let you borrow (or do it for you) their scanner. Although I've done my share of 4EAT replacements, I'm no mechanic and can't diagnose your issues. I would start w/a drain/refill/drive a couple miles/shift manually thru the gears, repeat 3x, - Don't Flush it. It'll cost you a few gallons of ATF, which is a lot cheaper than the rebuild/replace tranny option- I wouldn't worry about using synthetic for trouble-shooting. Also, I'd search on here some more about the filter/screen...sure it's been covered. GL, TD