wtdash

Hi, This Gear Ratio Calculator may be useful, too. Since I may be looking for a replacement 5-speed for my '98 Forester in the future I've also noticed the 5th gear ratios for other '96-99 Subarus w/the 4.11 FD ratio. On that tranny chart, the OB has the taller 5th gear - 0.871. The GT, Forester, and Impreza RS both have the lower RPM 5th gear - 0.780, if I'm reading it right. I'm surprised since the Forester uses the same height of tires - ~26" - as the Outback (Forester L: 205/70R-15 and Forester S: 215/60R-16). Regarding the 6-speed, I'd look thru NASIOC's threads, as it's a common upgrade for the WRX guys. Plus I think there are some 'gotchas' to watch out for w/the speed sensor changes, etc, on the newer trans. Td

What do you want to 'reset'? Search on here for reading the trouble codes, if that's where you're headed. Otherwise, disconnecting the Negative battery should work...I usually leave it off overnight. GL, TD

+1 That one's a PITA to put back on as you have to remove an AC bolt. Not hard, just extra work! (Yes, been there/done that!):-\ GL, TD

Hi, I'd check for Vacuum leaks and try cleaning the Idle air control valve (IAC). Search on here for both issues, and others. GL, TD

+1 for lifters @ startup. Since you know the history, fix the little things and keep driving it. Get AAA if you're worried about being stranded (provided you have cell coverage on your commute). Cheaper than a new/used car. The hard 1-2 shift seems to be a fairly common issue, but not necessarily bad. I'd suggest replacing (not flushing) the trans fluid if it's been 30K. The rear transfer case can be replaced w/out removing the trans, to fix your AWD, too. EDIT: Pull the CEL codes by doing THIS. The AT light is most likely as stated. I'd get a 2nd opinion on the fuel smell source. How much oil is leaking? When the TB was changed 10K ago, did you/mechanic notice it? GL, Td

The 'goo' was for later phase 2 EJ251 and EJ253 but they also got new HG, as needed, I believe. Td

USDM Legacy's harness connectors are the same '89-91 and changed in '92. The wiring is slightly different between turbo and NA engines too. For instance, the Cam/Crank sensors' wiring is swapped (I always wondered Why? on that one!), but the ECU connectors are the same from '89-94. Td

Check your VIN w/a dealer to see if yours was fixed on a MAF recall. If not, take it in to see if they'll cover it. More INFO. GL, Td

It may be the MAF. Does the car ever die while driving? But immediately start back up? That's what happened on my car when the MAF died. Does the AT transmission shift thru the gears properly - No delays? Have you checked the tranny fluid recently? GL, Td

99% sure your intake manifold has to match the heads so the bolt holes line up....and the head gasket should match the block. But, yeah, the wiring on the EJ22 and EJ20 should be the same.....although we didn't get the EJ20 over here, 'til the EJ20 Turbo in the '02 WRX. I'm not sure in your situtaion, but I know if we in the US put the 2.5 DOHC heads on the the EJ22 it LOWERS the compression ratio, which would produce less power......so do some research. GL, TD

Unless it's one of the recommended ones on here, they don't last. I bought an Autozone one because I had to, and it only lasted 6 months....boot looked fine, too. I also had an original one fail after 180K+ miles...the boot was mostly intact; I only knew it was bad because the car would barely move while one end of the CV joint turned while the wheel/tire did not....and there was a 'bit' of noise. Td

Do some more Searching to confirm, but the EJ25/2.5 from '96-2003? had HG issues- internal and external leaks depending on year. IF you can confirm they've had the latest HG installed, then I'd feel OK buying one, otherwise 'not so much'. Read up on 'torque bind' if you're going w/an Automatic, and wheel bearings for the Impreza/Forester, among a few things that come to mind. GL, Td

Yes..just turn the crank on the front while looking down thru the hole 'til you see the holes in the flexplate. Stick the bolt - if it'll fit- in to hold and then remove the front crank bolt. I HIGHLY recommend using a flare wrench or even an 'easy out' type of socket so as not to strip those 4 darn TC bolts....12mm, IIRC. Treat them w/respect as they will cause lots of grief if you don't. You can get a ratchet/socket on there and kind of wedge it against the side of the access hole for leverage - hard to describe- Depending on your dexterity you might consider removing the TB, which isn't that tough - unplug the TPS/coil pack/IAC, disconnect the coolant lines, mark and remove the throttle/CC cables, and 4 bolts on the TB. GL, Td

Not the greatest pic, but it's just under the throttle body - up to the right of the black plastic cover he's holding, on the back of the engine:

Thanks guys....appreciate the replies.

DA of the day award: Didn't label the wires when I pulled them to swap the engine. The OEM replacements aren't labeled either. There are 2 the same length and the other 2 are both different lengths - one is much longer than the others. Does it matter where they go as long as the right port on the coil goes to the correct cylinder's plug? I've searched and either it's not here or using wrong search terms. I remember my Dakota's V8 had a different length wires and they had to go to the correct cylinder from the distributor....so just checking. Thanks Td

Thanks all....it's 'none of the above'. But I appreciate the replies. (The one empty plug is the 02, but I ID'd that one.) There are 2 wires - 1 white and 1 black w/white stripe - going into the plug. I'm going to just fire it up and see if I get a CEL...hopefully tomorrow. Thanks, Td

Sir N, I went ahead and put it back together before I thought to take a better pic. :-( But thanks for the offer. Td

Hi, There is only 1 wire for each plug of the black/green connectors, as shown in your pic (look @ the green connectors). But I've read on here not to use those for diagnostics on the '95+ cars (they DO work on the '90-94 Legacy/'93-94Impreza). Black is for stored codes; green is for active codes; use both to clear codes....again only 'for sure' safe to use on the older, OBD1 cars. I'm 99% sure your car is OBD2 and has the port under the driver's side dash - usually has a little cover to open - EXAMPLE. I'd find a local auto parts store that'll let you borrow (or do it for you) their scanner. Although I've done my share of 4EAT replacements, I'm no mechanic and can't diagnose your issues. I would start w/a drain/refill/drive a couple miles/shift manually thru the gears, repeat 3x, - Don't Flush it. It'll cost you a few gallons of ATF, which is a lot cheaper than the rebuild/replace tranny option- I wouldn't worry about using synthetic for trouble-shooting. Also, I'd search on here some more about the filter/screen...sure it's been covered. GL, TD

Unfortunately, it's not the O2 as that plug is more oval and I'm very familiar w/it (due to changing it multiple times on previous Subies). But I appreciate the reply. Edit: It's more a triangle shape. :-)

EDIT: well, not really, but I got the engine installed and started it up - No CELs, so hoping/guessing it was 'extra'.. Hi, 1998 Forester - 5-speed. I'm reinstalling the engine and failed to label the plug circled below. I can't find its mate (it might be unused). It's on the 5-speed's bellhousing near where the 3 big, main plugs connect. Thanks, TD

DOH! Yes, it will (if it's an AT w/the EGR)...good catch, MR. G. TD

Not stupid...gotta learn somehow....a Search would tell you that the tires will likely rub on the strut's spring perches, so although the wheels fit the hubs, the tires won't physically fit. The Outback/Forester struts have higher perches, plus they're taller to provide lift (along w/body spacers, etc.). They also may rub as you described. Td

Yes, but the front end will sit higher than the rear- impreza/forester has different rear strut-mount height - see my POST. You can use 'saggy butt spacers' to even it out a bit. If the Forester is the S model (likely w/leather seats), the tires are 215/60R-16 - I have an S in my shop right now. I know the seats will fit, just can't confirm how much higher they are. If they have seat height adjustment you should be OK. TD P.s. If you part out the Forester, please let me know...may be a few items I could use, if it's the gray interior.

.....If the speedo isn't working, there's a good chance one of the 2 VSS sensors isn't getting/sending the correct info to the TCU....although dropping into Reverse is 'new to me'. I forgot to ask, does the Power or AT Light flash when you start it up? If so, check the Codes HERE. I just think you should rule out the easier fixes b4 swapping trans to have the same issues. Td