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Turbo an EJ25 - read this THREAD . It deals w/the newer SOHC EJ25s, too. There are kits out there, but not cheap. Td

I didn't see it answered, but on this engine, doing only one HG is probably OK....esp. if it's still in the car. GL, TD

Does the POWER light (on the dash) blink when you start it up? If so check out Mr. JC's POST on reading the codes. GL, Td

Thanks...I was hoping one of you smart 'lifted' guys would know something. 1. cut where the arrows point 2. swap the pieces 3. weld them back together w/a sleeve over the cut ends Any concern that the welding heat messes w/the needle bearings? '98 Forester on the left; '08 Impreza (ends have same spline count as '04 WRX rack) on the right

I have an '04 WRX rack and pinion that I was planning on putting in my '98 Forester, as mine's leaking and the WRX's has a quicker steering ratio. The steering shaft's knurled end in the Forester has a more coarse spline (?) than the input pinion shaft on the WRX so the '98 Intermediate Steering Shaft won't work and vice versa. Can a machine shop swap the Intermediate Steering Shaft u joints? So one end matches the WRX and the other the Forester's? Also, I'm guessing I can't just swap the pinion gear 'box' as that's probably part of the WRX's quicker steering ratio? Thanks, Td Edit: Found THIS and THIS after more searching: And then I read this POST by DOHC_Holiday: EDIT: I ended up swapping the pinion gears from the old '98 into the newer WRX rack: We'll see how it works out!

Never mind. Td

I agree w/MikeC03 about the head gaskets - if they aren't done, start saving ($1500-2000) for the repair, as I'm now convinced they are a 'maintenance' item like changing the T-belt. Once changed the car is good for another 150K+ miles...IF it's had/will have regular oil changes. I've seen and read about crank/rod bearing failures....not the car's fault - poor owner maintenance....but that's the same for any car. Search on here for more info about other maintenance items. The EJ22 was only avl. in '95 (not a real OB) and '96 but only w/the 5speed. If you come across an OB w/the EJ22 swapped in (commonly done), it's not a bad way to go. But if you're spending a lot time @ 8-10,000 feet, you may miss that extra power. GL, Todd aka powder pig :-)

I don't like to share 'maybe' info, but since you've not got much response: Other members run the 205/75R-15, but they have the OB struts. I think the 75's are too tall and will hit the bottom of the '95s spring perch. GL, Td

Just to be clear, are you talking about just the Intake Manifold (IM) vs. the heads? DOHC IM won't work on SOHC heads, but you could put '96-99 heads DOHC heads on '99, which is what the '99 OB/GT are (Phase 2 block w/the Phase 1 DOHC heads). Use the heads, IM and harness and go....I think...I'm still unclear on the compatibility of Crank Sensor (and possibly a couple of others) from the Phase 2 EJ25 blocks. Search on here as it's been covered. GL, TD

Not to be a 'butt-in-head', but taking the driving class helps you find your limits. And yes, handling can be more fun than speed. Fast cars lose to better drivers/better handling cars all the time. Have fun, Td

Pistons are cast but coated in the EJ22T...check this LINK for more info, but essentially: "........and the pistons were given a dished crown (which lowers the compression ratio from 9.5:1 to 8.0:1), stronger rings, longer wrist pins and a molybdenum coating."

The '99 2.2 is the Phase 2, which may not matter if you reuse the '91 heads/intake manifold/harness. But the crank sensor may not be compatible w/the '91's wiring ECU. The easy swaps are the '89-94 Legacy...the wiring harness connectors changed in '92-94, but just swap the harness...it can be done w/out removing the intake manifold. The '95-96 short block should also be a direct swap. Remember that the '95+ are OBD2 and have different ECU/wiring. GL, TD

Thanks Josh. The Forester/OB have the 'heavy duty 10.7' dual-piston, which I'm wondering if it's really worth upgrading to the WRX 11.4 dual-piston? Maybe just get better pads? On the other hand, after 170K miles maybe they need replaced or rebuilt. For EM - Is "Open Source ECU" the same as Megasquirt? The COBB AP didn't include the '98 MAF-based systems, just the '99 and newer MAP, from what I've found so far. Right now I leaning heavily towards a Greddy Ultimate. I've hear it's a PITA to tune, but there's a THREAD on NASIOC that is for my same setup, so it'd be pretty much a 'plug-n-play' from my end. Thanks, Td

Hi, I'm buying a 1998 Forester S in the next week or so that has 170K miles and the infamous failed Head Gaskets. It will be receiving an EJ22T block w/the EJ25's DOHC heads/JDM EJ20K turbo cams/TD05-16G turbo and other related goodies. I intend to Auto-X the car, but it's also going to be my daily driver, too, so needs to be reliable. While the engine is out and it's accessible, I'm very interested in what suggestions for updating/upgrading are out there? Here's a partial list I've started due to the car's mileage: - WRX/STi Rack and related suspension pieces. - STi Brake booster (if it'll fit the SF) - WRX brakes - 11.4" vented twin-caliper piston. - Are they worth it and do I need the calipers/pistons/brackets? (Running 16" wheels for now) - Clutch- was replaced @ 80K, but since it has 90K on it, it's due - Looking @ an upgrade that can handle (ultimately) 250hp/300 ft-lbs. - Will the rear wheel bearings strand me if they go? They're original. If I get some warning I'll just let 'em be. - Engine management for the turbo (15-20psi): fuel/timing/boost control - Fuel Pump - Walbro? Thank you!

I thought the 'touring wagon = turbo' - Per CARS101.com. I'd also be suspicious of an actual HG issue....check all the other options related to the cooling system 1st. TD

John, A couple of comments, as I've done a swap, which I realize isn't the same as 'de-turboing' a turbo engine. 1. You'll need to swap the exhaust manifold, since the up pipe goes into the turbo...unless you can make your own 'adapter' between the up pipe and down pipe. 2. If you use an NA exhaust manifold you'll need the NA crossmember as the Y-pipe won't fit...trust me on this one - been there, done that. 3. If you run the NA ECU, you'll need to swap the cam/crank sensors @ the ECU connector - I would think the extra wiring for the Turbo's sensors will just be ignored by the NA ECU. 4. Gas MPG will be less-compared to an NA, as the Turbo's compression is 8.0 vs. the NA's 9.5:1. The best I get w/my EJ22T is 25mpg highway (going easy on the boost); the EJ22e regularly got 28MPG. The EJ22T engines are solid and very similar to the NA in terms of maintenance. If you do come across one they are worth it and I think you'd enjoy the extra power, even if you leave it stock. For us boost-addicts, they are too much fun!

Also, the '95 had EGR on the Automatic cars and possibly all '96+ EJ22's. So you'd have to tap your '89-94 EJ22 for the EGR's lower connection. SEARCH on here for more on EGR issues...comes up on the EJ25>>EJ22 swap. The intake manifold from the newer EJ22 should fit the older model, which will keep the proper sensors. The Phase I ('89-98 EJ22) all used the same intake manifold bolt pattern, from what I've read on here. Td

Just to add a bit to Josh's info above. The US didn't get the Turbo wagon 'til '92. The '91 Turbo was avl. as a sedan only. The turbo wagons had upgraded interiors (leather?) and had a rear badge - 'Touring' - to ID it. And both of us have swapped a Legacy turbo EJ22T into our '90 Legacy's (Josh also swapped in a complete AWD drivetrain, too!). If it was swapped, ensure that the Seller knew what they were doing...it's not that difficult, but there are sensors/wiring/ECU/Drivetrain/etc that need to be changed. The EJ22T and non-turbo EJ22e are very solid engines and rarely blow HG. Makes me think there's something else wrong in the tuning or the swap that caused the HG to go. A rebuilt trans is a definite plus, but be sure it's a Turbo trans (they have a 'J' in the part number). Td

I've read on here that flushing a high(er) mileage AT is risky; better to just Drain/Refill/Drive repeat 3X. Also, the tranny fluid level is very sensitive; I've also read on the USMB that it takes just a Pint (not a quart) to go from Low>>Full on the dipstick. And it happened to me on a '95 with <120K miles. It had a bit of torque bind and was slow to engage when shifted to R or D. I had it FLUSHED and lost reverse. Had to have it rebuilt. GL, Td

Please quote reference....this is the 1st I've ever heard of this (unless it was in Europe/Japan/Aussie).

You'll also have to contend w/the oil/water return lines from the turbo. The EJ20 turbo heads should have the plumbing, but not your non-turbo block. Have fun, TD

'96 is MAF-based, like my '93, and my car had similar symptons when it failed....it would die, but would always restart immediately. good luck, TD

What's the powertrain warranty on your 2007? I think US models is 5years/60K miles....might want to take it in sooner than later to get it diagnosed.

Likely under either the passenger side footwell/carpet area or the driver's side dash.

Nicely done write-up and pics. Thanks for the info.