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a: Check in coolant overflow tank for oily residue and bubbles when it's getting hot...that's another tell-tale sign. SEARCH on here, but in general the HG repair runs about $1500 (@ least what I've read). KBB.com lists that as $4400 in Good condition for Private Party (non-Limited). A dealer may give you $3K Trade-In, w/out the HG issue. So, expect 1/2 that. I've bought 3 OBs in the last 2 years w/HG or other 2.5 engine issues. I paid between $1500-$1900 for them, and I live in the what I'd call Subie Central up in the Pacific NW. It does sound like getting it fixed, and fixed right, may be a challenge, so unloading it either thru the dealer or CL may be your best option. You'll likely get a few hundred more thru CL, but your market area makes that a tough call. GL, Td

I know for sure they put those on th '91 EJ22T SS, not sure what else. I think generally they're considered unnecessary, as they didn't put them on the '92-94 EJ22T, but I think it depends more on the application - high HP, etc. Based on that beautiful block, I probably don't have to say this, but ensure your replace those rubber/silicone hose on the oil cooler. Rumor is they're a point of failure. Td

MR. OB99W knows a heck of a lot more than me, so take this or leave it: Get a compression test. I had a 'missfire on Cylinder 4', did a compression test, and turned out to be no compression (OK...it was 30 vs. 170 on the one next to it). I likely have a burnt valve. That #4 cylinder runs the hottest of them all, I've read. This is on a Legacy 2.5, but a close relative to your 2.0. Good luck, td

I'm going to hijack my own thread.... I've done 2 of these swaps/replacements, but both were Automatics ---I've also done 3 other Auto tranny swaps on '90-93 Legacys. This is a 5-speed. With my trusty (?) Haynes manual what 'gotchas' do I want to watch out for? Special tools? Thanks

Yeah...that's what I was thinking/hoping, too. The car is driveable, so I'll check the brakes, and such.... However....If I'm going to resell it, whatever's underneath may be an issue w/a potential buyer if they have it inspected......Hmmmm.

I don't have power tools, so I'll just have to go heavy on the PB. I may take a closer look tonite. Thank-you for the info.

Looking @ a car that spent the 1st half of its life in PA; 2nd half in the Northwest. An under the hood shot has the telltale signs of the rust belt, w/many of the nuts/bolts showing evidence of rust. Where does the rust cause issues if I want to swap in another engine? BTW, this EJ25D has 'low compression' per the owner, not HG failure. Thanks, TD

I'm looking for interchange info between the Phase 2 EJ25 (and the EJ22 Phase 2) between the '99 and 2005 model years. The only thing I know is the Forester I may buy is an '01, which means it should be the MAF-based EJ253. I think I'm making this more difficult than it is, since I'll be swapping intake manifolds anyway, whether it's a MAF or MAP-based system shouldn't matter, as I don't think they're on the engine. They're part of the air intake system, which won't change if I swap motors. Thanks

Anyone got anything? Thanks

Can these two Phase 2 engines be interchanged? Just swap the Intakes? Or is it like the EGR issue w/the Phase 1 EJ25>>EJ22 swap, which will give a CEL w/out the EGR? Edit: And does the EJ22 still work w/either the MAP or MAF-based system? I know I can swap intakes (thanks to 'subaru360') on either the 2.2 or 2.5, too. Based on Wikipedia and a couple other sources these EJ25 SOHC engines came w/either MAF: EJ253 or MAP: EJ251. And what's weird is they weren't consistently applied. The '99 EJ251 (MAP), was replaced by the EJ253 (MAF) in '00, and returned in '05??! :-\ Thanks for any clarification.

To the OP, is it temp related? When the temp gets to 0F or below, my '90 EJ22 clicks from the front passenger side and the RPM fluctuates 500 RPM, 'til fully warm. I replaced that relay(?) behind the glove box w/another used one and still have the issue. Td

Re: Performance....if you're going to pull the engine, send the cams to Delta Camshafts in Tacoma, WA. They have a couple of different grinds they can do. It was about $100/cam last I checked. GL, TD

Check out some of the other Subaru sites about this issue, too..... legacygt.com comes to mind Do you know anyone w/WRX wheels/tires? Maybe swap for a day? I'm thinking tires, but an out of balance tire usually shows up @ 60mph-ish, in my experience. 67K isn't a lot, but as 2nd owner you don't know if the PO tweaked something. I'd take it to a couple of Subaru-specific shops for feedback on how things look underneath. RE: snow tires: The 225 width is too much for winter driving , IMHO. I'd consider a 205-series (if they make it). If you found a set of Forester's 215/60R-16 they might be a good compromise...if they fit over the calipers. Also an aggressive tread makes a difference in 'bite' vs. 'plow'. Good luck, TD

OK...I may take a 'hit' for this comment, but I thought the '95 Impreza was OBD1/OBDI and all the EJ25 were in OBD2/OBDII cars '96-'99. Wouldn't the intake/engine connectors be different? I know the '95 Legacy was OBD2 (although I've heard otherwise, but haven't seen one yet), but not the Impreza. If it has the OBD2 connector under a little plastic cover on the driver's side dash (@ least on Legacys), you're good to go. Just thought you should double-check.

I don't see it mentioned, so throwing it out there...Is the fluid fresh? I'd hope so on the rebuilt, but changing out the fluid has worked for some. Since you sound unsure of whether it was rebuilt, I'd also double-check the transmission ID on the bell-housing if there's a '2 ' after the 'Z' like this TZ102Z2ABA, it should be the correct one (thanks to johnceggleston). If it's a letter, it's got the wrong diff ratio....and someone swapped in a non-OB tranny. Td

If the car isn't .05 & .10 you to death...keep it. $900 sounds like a lot, but it's only a few car payments, rather than 3-4 years of payments for a new(er) car. I don't know the laws in NY, but can you order the cat online, and have a shop put it in? Or even go across statelines to find a shop? I had this done for about $150 - parts (ebay cat) and labor. Seal up the sunroof (and pull the fuse) as mentioned above. I used the black electrical tape, which worked well (but it was also 60+ degrees outside). This worked on an ol' '93 Legacy SS 'your results may vary'. Good luck, TD

The '94 Legacy is a 4.11 (non-turbo), and the chart shows 3.9, so I'd question its validity, too.'' Edit: I searched too and that chart shows up on a LOT of links. Here's a POST w/the same tranny and may (or not) help.

Yeah, I checked the rotor cover/shield, 1st, but thanks for the reminder.

1999 OB, Auto, 142K (just did a 2.2 swap). Symptons: rotational metallic noise when turning left or right regardless of whether brakes are applied or not from the front left/Driver's side @ city speeds. No noise straight ahead or above 40MPH. What I've done that didn't work, w/extra (good) parts I have: - put in another CV axle - replaced the caliper mounting plate as the bottom caliper bolt was rusted solid and didn't move in/out. - ensured the rotor cover/shield wasn't touching the rotor. What else should I check? If it is the bearing, should I just replace the hub? Also, is the upper strut bolt the only alignment-related thing to mark? Thanks, TD

Sir John, RE: the flex plate - I remembered to check before I installed it, as this wasn't my 1st engine swap - just my 1st 2.5>>2.2 swap. I learned this one the hard way on a previous swap...had the engine back in and ready to bolt up and WTH? The TC holes didn't line up - ARGH! The '93 turbo TC and flex plate were different than the NA's...live and learn. Thanks TD

You Nailed it! Just sitting and spinning. Replaced the axle and all is well! Thanks to All and Happy Holidays! TD Broken CV:

Yeah, Spaldings told me there were 3 different options for the '96 model year....they said I needed to match the code, but I doubt it. Thanks

Very good site dedicated to the '90-94 Legacy, including the turbo: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php

Edit: 1996 Legacy Brighton 4EAT/EJ22, 180K: Initially thought the tranny was bad, but now...maybe a CV axle broke? Here's the step-son's description: If it is the tranny, per Johnceggleston, HERE, the '95-98 2.2 legacys all used the same tranny, but according to 'car-part.com' and my local wrecking yard I need to match the code. There were 3 Automatic choices that year: - TZ102ZAAAA - TZ102Z2ABA (this one is likely a 4.44 diff ratio and won't work) - TZ102ZABAA I know from the '90-94 years that any of 'em will work if I match it to the rear diff....including the turbos. The '95-98 4eat's behind the EJ22 should be 4.11; the EJ25 are 4.44. Should I also get the TCU for the year that matches the tranny, if different from my '96? Anybody have any feedback? I'm hauling the car home tomorrow and if I have time would like to get the replacement tomorrow, too, to work on over the holiday (yeah - lots o' fun!). Found a few low milers for ~$550. Thanks, TD

I swapped a '95 EJ22 w/EGR (170K) into a '99 OB (142K) that had a failed crank bearing (?) due to the PO forgetting to check the oil. More info HERE. Before I started the engine, I disconnected the coil plug to turn it over w/out actually firing, 2X....I've heard to do this to ensure the oil gets where it needs to be?? The EJ22 was from a wrecking yard and had been sitting for who knows how long in their warehouse. I drained about 2 quarts of oil out of it before refilling and putting on a new filter. After re-connecting the coil, it started right up (NO CEL!!) but had what I believe was Rod Knock (?) for about the 1st 10-15 seconds. Since it went away I let the engine run 'til warm - didn't touch the throttle. No other weird noises and I took the car for a short drive and all seemed well. So, the Question is: Did that 10-15 seconds of rod knock hurt anything? Thanks, TD