wtdash

The '99 2.2 is the Phase 2, which may not matter if you reuse the '91 heads/intake manifold/harness. But the crank sensor may not be compatible w/the '91's wiring ECU. The easy swaps are the '89-94 Legacy...the wiring harness connectors changed in '92-94, but just swap the harness...it can be done w/out removing the intake manifold. The '95-96 short block should also be a direct swap. Remember that the '95+ are OBD2 and have different ECU/wiring. GL, TD

Thanks Josh. The Forester/OB have the 'heavy duty 10.7' dual-piston, which I'm wondering if it's really worth upgrading to the WRX 11.4 dual-piston? Maybe just get better pads? On the other hand, after 170K miles maybe they need replaced or rebuilt. For EM - Is "Open Source ECU" the same as Megasquirt? The COBB AP didn't include the '98 MAF-based systems, just the '99 and newer MAP, from what I've found so far. Right now I leaning heavily towards a Greddy Ultimate. I've hear it's a PITA to tune, but there's a THREAD on NASIOC that is for my same setup, so it'd be pretty much a 'plug-n-play' from my end. Thanks, Td

Hi, I'm buying a 1998 Forester S in the next week or so that has 170K miles and the infamous failed Head Gaskets. It will be receiving an EJ22T block w/the EJ25's DOHC heads/JDM EJ20K turbo cams/TD05-16G turbo and other related goodies. I intend to Auto-X the car, but it's also going to be my daily driver, too, so needs to be reliable. While the engine is out and it's accessible, I'm very interested in what suggestions for updating/upgrading are out there? Here's a partial list I've started due to the car's mileage: - WRX/STi Rack and related suspension pieces. - STi Brake booster (if it'll fit the SF) - WRX brakes - 11.4" vented twin-caliper piston. - Are they worth it and do I need the calipers/pistons/brackets? (Running 16" wheels for now) - Clutch- was replaced @ 80K, but since it has 90K on it, it's due - Looking @ an upgrade that can handle (ultimately) 250hp/300 ft-lbs. - Will the rear wheel bearings strand me if they go? They're original. If I get some warning I'll just let 'em be. - Engine management for the turbo (15-20psi): fuel/timing/boost control - Fuel Pump - Walbro? Thank you!

I thought the 'touring wagon = turbo' - Per CARS101.com. I'd also be suspicious of an actual HG issue....check all the other options related to the cooling system 1st. TD

John, A couple of comments, as I've done a swap, which I realize isn't the same as 'de-turboing' a turbo engine. 1. You'll need to swap the exhaust manifold, since the up pipe goes into the turbo...unless you can make your own 'adapter' between the up pipe and down pipe. 2. If you use an NA exhaust manifold you'll need the NA crossmember as the Y-pipe won't fit...trust me on this one - been there, done that. 3. If you run the NA ECU, you'll need to swap the cam/crank sensors @ the ECU connector - I would think the extra wiring for the Turbo's sensors will just be ignored by the NA ECU. 4. Gas MPG will be less-compared to an NA, as the Turbo's compression is 8.0 vs. the NA's 9.5:1. The best I get w/my EJ22T is 25mpg highway (going easy on the boost); the EJ22e regularly got 28MPG. The EJ22T engines are solid and very similar to the NA in terms of maintenance. If you do come across one they are worth it and I think you'd enjoy the extra power, even if you leave it stock. For us boost-addicts, they are too much fun!

Also, the '95 had EGR on the Automatic cars and possibly all '96+ EJ22's. So you'd have to tap your '89-94 EJ22 for the EGR's lower connection. SEARCH on here for more on EGR issues...comes up on the EJ25>>EJ22 swap. The intake manifold from the newer EJ22 should fit the older model, which will keep the proper sensors. The Phase I ('89-98 EJ22) all used the same intake manifold bolt pattern, from what I've read on here. Td

Just to add a bit to Josh's info above. The US didn't get the Turbo wagon 'til '92. The '91 Turbo was avl. as a sedan only. The turbo wagons had upgraded interiors (leather?) and had a rear badge - 'Touring' - to ID it. And both of us have swapped a Legacy turbo EJ22T into our '90 Legacy's (Josh also swapped in a complete AWD drivetrain, too!). If it was swapped, ensure that the Seller knew what they were doing...it's not that difficult, but there are sensors/wiring/ECU/Drivetrain/etc that need to be changed. The EJ22T and non-turbo EJ22e are very solid engines and rarely blow HG. Makes me think there's something else wrong in the tuning or the swap that caused the HG to go. A rebuilt trans is a definite plus, but be sure it's a Turbo trans (they have a 'J' in the part number). Td

I've read on here that flushing a high(er) mileage AT is risky; better to just Drain/Refill/Drive repeat 3X. Also, the tranny fluid level is very sensitive; I've also read on the USMB that it takes just a Pint (not a quart) to go from Low>>Full on the dipstick. And it happened to me on a '95 with <120K miles. It had a bit of torque bind and was slow to engage when shifted to R or D. I had it FLUSHED and lost reverse. Had to have it rebuilt. GL, Td

Please quote reference....this is the 1st I've ever heard of this (unless it was in Europe/Japan/Aussie).

You'll also have to contend w/the oil/water return lines from the turbo. The EJ20 turbo heads should have the plumbing, but not your non-turbo block. Have fun, TD

'96 is MAF-based, like my '93, and my car had similar symptons when it failed....it would die, but would always restart immediately. good luck, TD

What's the powertrain warranty on your 2007? I think US models is 5years/60K miles....might want to take it in sooner than later to get it diagnosed.

Likely under either the passenger side footwell/carpet area or the driver's side dash.

Nicely done write-up and pics. Thanks for the info.

a: Check in coolant overflow tank for oily residue and bubbles when it's getting hot...that's another tell-tale sign. SEARCH on here, but in general the HG repair runs about $1500 (@ least what I've read). KBB.com lists that as $4400 in Good condition for Private Party (non-Limited). A dealer may give you $3K Trade-In, w/out the HG issue. So, expect 1/2 that. I've bought 3 OBs in the last 2 years w/HG or other 2.5 engine issues. I paid between $1500-$1900 for them, and I live in the what I'd call Subie Central up in the Pacific NW. It does sound like getting it fixed, and fixed right, may be a challenge, so unloading it either thru the dealer or CL may be your best option. You'll likely get a few hundred more thru CL, but your market area makes that a tough call. GL, Td

I know for sure they put those on th '91 EJ22T SS, not sure what else. I think generally they're considered unnecessary, as they didn't put them on the '92-94 EJ22T, but I think it depends more on the application - high HP, etc. Based on that beautiful block, I probably don't have to say this, but ensure your replace those rubber/silicone hose on the oil cooler. Rumor is they're a point of failure. Td

MR. OB99W knows a heck of a lot more than me, so take this or leave it: Get a compression test. I had a 'missfire on Cylinder 4', did a compression test, and turned out to be no compression (OK...it was 30 vs. 170 on the one next to it). I likely have a burnt valve. That #4 cylinder runs the hottest of them all, I've read. This is on a Legacy 2.5, but a close relative to your 2.0. Good luck, td

I'm going to hijack my own thread.... I've done 2 of these swaps/replacements, but both were Automatics ---I've also done 3 other Auto tranny swaps on '90-93 Legacys. This is a 5-speed. With my trusty (?) Haynes manual what 'gotchas' do I want to watch out for? Special tools? Thanks

Yeah...that's what I was thinking/hoping, too. The car is driveable, so I'll check the brakes, and such.... However....If I'm going to resell it, whatever's underneath may be an issue w/a potential buyer if they have it inspected......Hmmmm.

I don't have power tools, so I'll just have to go heavy on the PB. I may take a closer look tonite. Thank-you for the info.

Looking @ a car that spent the 1st half of its life in PA; 2nd half in the Northwest. An under the hood shot has the telltale signs of the rust belt, w/many of the nuts/bolts showing evidence of rust. Where does the rust cause issues if I want to swap in another engine? BTW, this EJ25D has 'low compression' per the owner, not HG failure. Thanks, TD

I'm looking for interchange info between the Phase 2 EJ25 (and the EJ22 Phase 2) between the '99 and 2005 model years. The only thing I know is the Forester I may buy is an '01, which means it should be the MAF-based EJ253. I think I'm making this more difficult than it is, since I'll be swapping intake manifolds anyway, whether it's a MAF or MAP-based system shouldn't matter, as I don't think they're on the engine. They're part of the air intake system, which won't change if I swap motors. Thanks

Anyone got anything? Thanks

Can these two Phase 2 engines be interchanged? Just swap the Intakes? Or is it like the EGR issue w/the Phase 1 EJ25>>EJ22 swap, which will give a CEL w/out the EGR? Edit: And does the EJ22 still work w/either the MAP or MAF-based system? I know I can swap intakes (thanks to 'subaru360') on either the 2.2 or 2.5, too. Based on Wikipedia and a couple other sources these EJ25 SOHC engines came w/either MAF: EJ253 or MAP: EJ251. And what's weird is they weren't consistently applied. The '99 EJ251 (MAP), was replaced by the EJ253 (MAF) in '00, and returned in '05??! :-\ Thanks for any clarification.

To the OP, is it temp related? When the temp gets to 0F or below, my '90 EJ22 clicks from the front passenger side and the RPM fluctuates 500 RPM, 'til fully warm. I replaced that relay(?) behind the glove box w/another used one and still have the issue. Td