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Thanks to this site and its awesome members I completed my 1st 2.5 >> 2.2 swap. I swapped a '95 EJ22 w/EGR (170K) into a '99 OB (142K) that had a failed crank bearing (?) due to the PO forgetting to check the oil. Started on 1st try and NO CELs! Here is some swap info I observed: - The '99 4EAT tranny has the 6 bolts, and what a PITA they are to get to on the Driver's side! I removed the driver's side CV axle to get @ 'em. - The EJ22 had the locator pins and so did the tranny - be smarter than me and remove them from one or the other B4 installing the engine. - The original '99 OB starter worked perfect - both upper and lower mounting bolts were still in place. I was unclear on this but since I didn't swap trannys it was a non-issue. - The flex plate from '95 won't work - too small @ least on the '99 w/the newer 4EAT. Rule of thumb seems to be to always match the flexplate w/the tranny - not the engine. - The vac hoses are different as mentioned in previous posts: --On the EJ22 there are 2 that go to the charcol canister. I looped them back into each other. --There were also 2 on the passenger side of the intake manifold on the EJ22. There was one hose w/a T-connector that I found on the EJ25. I took the T-connector from EJ25 and used it to connect the longer hose to the sensor on the passenger strut tower, and put the extra EJ22 hose on the T. - I swapped the AC/Alt bracket from the EJ25 to the EJ22...it may not be necessary but couldn't get that small bracket piece under the AC to work (maybe I just needed a break!). Otherwise, the AC/ALT/PS all connected right up. The PS lines do stick out and won't connect to the EJ22. I removed the brackets from the lines, since they weren't being used. - Note that neither the AC compressor nor the PS pump need to be disconnected from their hoses - just swing them up and out of the way. When removing/installing the engine just go slow and move the AC hoses out of the way as needed. Thanks Again to ALL those providing the info to do this!

I got about 6 months out of an Autozone CV axle (don't recall the brand), which I also bought since I needed it 'yesterday'. If you have a Junk/Wrecking yard handy I would put in a used one before another Autozone one. You could also call a local Subie mechanic and see where they get theirs...they surely don't want to do the job again in 6 months. Good luck, TD

Check out http://bbs.legacycentral.org/. There is a ton of info specific to the '90-94 Legacy-NA and Turbo. I have the AT in my EJ22T (swapped into a '90), and 'might' get 24 MPG highway, but since I'm a boost addict, I'm usually around 20. This is w/double the stock boost (17psi), w/some other upgrades, including the Revtronix chip, which helps w/tuning. The AT is a strong tranny, if fluid is maintained and kept cool (put a tranny cooler on it to help make it last). The upside to the higher maintenance requirements of the EJ22T is that the block is arguably the strongest Subaru ever made. I'd look @ which one has the best maintenance history, so you know what you're getting into. Have fun, TD

I don't see an EGR on that JDM either, if yours has one. I'd also be wary of future parts replacement on that JDM intake manifold...if you have to replace the IAC, TB, etc, and they're different, getting parts and trouble-shooting will be harder, IMHO. FWIW, I've had/bought 3 EJ25D w/bad HG: 62K, 125K, and 135K. Td

That looks just like the WRX 6-disc player I installed in my '97 OB. Direct fit, but lost the compartment below AND the clock, if it matters to you. GL, TD

The stall test 'normal' values for the Phase 1 4EAT are: Non-turbo: 2550-2950 RPM Turbo: 2850-3250 RPM (Thanks to Legacy777 for this INFO - open this FILE: 4EAT_performance_test.zip.) For reference I found the WRX 4eat Phase II is 3200 RPM Stall Test Results Higher than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following: • Slippage of the forward clutch • O.W.C. not holding • Low/Reverse brake slipping • Overall low line pressure Lower than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following: • Incorrect throttle adjustment • Poor engine operation • Torque converter stator slippage FIXED w/a '92 Turbo 4eat transmission. I used the NA Torque Converter so I didn't have to swap the flex plate. I also used the NA TCU, which was working fine, according the guy I sold the car to. :-)

Smells very burnt.

My replacement transmission is from a '92 Turbo 4EAT. I know they're both 3.90 diff ratio, but the flex plate/torque converters are different. Anyone know if I can use the TC from the bad NA tranny and put it in the turbo tranny? Removing the flex plate is a PITA. Thanks for the help!

1. Checked the plugs and they were tight. Everything around the top of the tranny look untouched/original. I decided not to disconnect and drive it based on others' comments. 2. For the TC Stall test, I floored it w/the brakes on, and it wouldn't go higher than 2500 RPM in D. 3. Please take a look below - very dark, but didn't really see metal in the fluid:

I do NOT have Torque Bind...so doesn't sound electrical....which would be the easy(er) fix. Missed that the 1st time...tranny swapping time. Thanks

Thanks Gary....I'll check the fluid and connectors @ the tranny and under the dash, too. TD

Just bought a '92 Legacy L sedan to fix and put back on the road.....it has automatic tranny issues. -140K Miles Car won't move @ all in 1st. Moves in 2, 3 & D, but has only one gear - 3rd- Doesn't shift up or down - Hey, it's a CVT! Reverse works, but car is slow to engage. I drove it home on back roads @ up to 45 mph, and started to whine the longer I drove it (just like the ol' 4EAT in my '90 except all its gears still worked 'til I swapped in the turbo 4EAT). Once up to speed (30+) it would accelerate up to 50, and it climbed the previous owner's steep 1/4-mile long driveway w/out too much complaint.Tranny fluid doesn't look too bad, but does smell 'crispy'. NO TCU codes stored, either. I found this POST from Feb. '09, w/the same symptoms, although the car was OBDII. I'll do Nipper's TC test tomorrow: In that same post OB99W suggested an endwrench article that stated it was in 'limp' mode, which could be electrical or mechanical....since there are no codes, I'm guessing it's mechanical, which means repair the tranny's internals or replace it? Just wanted to confirm it's beyond a flush/refill/pray. Thanks TD

Correct From Cars101.com: 2.2-L, 135 horsepower, 4 cylinder boxer engine, 16 valve single overhead cam, multiport fuel injected 140 ft lbs torque, electronic distributorless ignition Old style is my semi-educated guess.... For reference, I had an early '98 OB (mfg. date 8/97) that still had the old style tensioner...different engine, but I've read the EJ22 and EJ25 used the same timing pulleys and tensioners so very likely SOA didn't change either engine 'til '98-ish. TD

Just to add to the above.... The Phase I EJ22 was the '90-99 (per Wikipedia). Multiple changes thru-out the years, such as moving to single-port heads in '96, and head/valve changes making the engine interference in '97, but they remained Phase I. TD

Hi, FYI - best to start a New Thread, rather than hi-jack this old one ('07). I'd check over on 'nasioc.com' and 'subaruforester.org'. GL, TD

I know there's a law (Magnuson-Moss?) against manufacturers (dealers?) requiring buyers to service their cars @ the dealer to maintain the warranty. If your warranty is provided by Subaru, it may be covered by the law.

I've had 2 experiences w/these - 2 different companies - both before I had Subaru(s). One was for some brake work that was covered; the other was an internal tie rod that wasn't. Unless you get the 'bumper-to-bumper' coverage (even then there are things not covered, which are considered 'maintenance items', etc.), it's too easy for the company to disallow the claim. Best option is to set aside the $$ each month for repairs....if you don't use it, it's there for a nice downpayment on your new Subaru!

FWIW, I just asked about a '99 Forester for sale - I know it's a different engine, but maybe this info from the Seller will help:

I didn't see it above, but usually a fluid change (not a flush) requires 3-4 'drains>>refills'. The fluid is in the tranny and the torque converter, so drain>>refill>>drive>>repeat. This procedure replaces the majority of the fluid. Also, the difference between a Low fluid level and Full is about a pint, so best to keep track of what you drain and refill w/same amount...if you started @ the Full mark. And just for the record, I (and maybe others on here) recommend against doing a FLUSH of the AT fluid on high mileage AT. It can dislodge stuff that is actually helping keep the tranny functioning. I know from personal experience.

Swapped the MAF and installed the Bosch Universal sensor..yeah, it's a PITA and I got it wrong the 1st time....car wouldn't even run. But the idle is much better, smoothest it's been in weeks. And NO CODES after a 15 minute drive. I'm guessing the injector codes were related to the failure of the MAF/O2? Thanks, TD

'90 Legacy w/a '93 EJ22T swapped in. I've had some recurring engine issues the last few weeks where the engine will just die. A couple times while idling, a couple times while accelerating, and 2 times when coming to a stop/slowing down @ an intersection. I've also had it cut-out for a brief second, but continue running. Car always starts right back up and NO CEL. After doing some driving last nite w/the car running well - didn't die once- the CEL comes on but the car continues to run fine. I pulled the codes and found: Error 14-17 for Injector #1-4 Error 23 - MAF Sensor Error 32 - O2 sensor I've read that the MAF could cause these symptoms?? I've got another MAF I can try. Also, the O2 sensor isn't working right as the voltage doesn't change...I'm using the Revscan software from Revtronix that can read multiple parameters..... but doubt it would cause the car to stall. Anyone think the Bosch O2 sensors are OK? They're avl. locally for $50 and I don't have time to order one....leaving for VACA tomorrow. Thanks for any feedback! Td

After reading this LINK about TB and this LINK (near the bottom) about someone else's experience, I decided to give it a go. I had just replaced the transmission and the used replacement had TB and delayed AWD...took 1-2 seconds for the rear wheels to kick on any slick surface. Since I still had the old 4EAT laying(lying?) around, I pulled the rear housing off, filed down the grooves, and waited for day off. That way I could just take it apart and put it back together w/out the delay of filing the grooves. The only new part I installed was the Duty C - I didn't mess w/the plates. In my case the Duty C wasn't bad (the FWD fuse still worked) but I didn't want to have to go back in there to fix it again. I'm no mechanic, but it wasn't too difficult. It fixed the delay 100% and the TB about 95%. TD

Please describe/show pics of "Homemade teflon strut spacers in the rear". I had '08 FXT struts on my '90 and the front sat about 1" higher than the back. Did the spacers fix that? Thanks, TD

2 things I can think of are the Ignitor/Igniter (?) - dead center on the engine side of firewall, and the coil pack, including the plug that connects by the throttle body. Not sure how to test either, but I know they'll keep it from firing. Checked for Codes (CEL)? - Instructions HERE.

Unfortunately, the dealer is correct. It's 'torque bind', infamous and well-covered on here. If you're handy, you can fix this yourself. And if the FWD did fix it, it's a mechanical issue - not electrical. Check this LINK for repair info. Td