wtdash

Yeah, I checked the rotor cover/shield, 1st, but thanks for the reminder.

1999 OB, Auto, 142K (just did a 2.2 swap). Symptons: rotational metallic noise when turning left or right regardless of whether brakes are applied or not from the front left/Driver's side @ city speeds. No noise straight ahead or above 40MPH. What I've done that didn't work, w/extra (good) parts I have: - put in another CV axle - replaced the caliper mounting plate as the bottom caliper bolt was rusted solid and didn't move in/out. - ensured the rotor cover/shield wasn't touching the rotor. What else should I check? If it is the bearing, should I just replace the hub? Also, is the upper strut bolt the only alignment-related thing to mark? Thanks, TD

Sir John, RE: the flex plate - I remembered to check before I installed it, as this wasn't my 1st engine swap - just my 1st 2.5>>2.2 swap. I learned this one the hard way on a previous swap...had the engine back in and ready to bolt up and WTH? The TC holes didn't line up - ARGH! The '93 turbo TC and flex plate were different than the NA's...live and learn. Thanks TD

You Nailed it! Just sitting and spinning. Replaced the axle and all is well! Thanks to All and Happy Holidays! TD Broken CV:

Yeah, Spaldings told me there were 3 different options for the '96 model year....they said I needed to match the code, but I doubt it. Thanks

Very good site dedicated to the '90-94 Legacy, including the turbo: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php

Edit: 1996 Legacy Brighton 4EAT/EJ22, 180K: Initially thought the tranny was bad, but now...maybe a CV axle broke? Here's the step-son's description: If it is the tranny, per Johnceggleston, HERE, the '95-98 2.2 legacys all used the same tranny, but according to 'car-part.com' and my local wrecking yard I need to match the code. There were 3 Automatic choices that year: - TZ102ZAAAA - TZ102Z2ABA (this one is likely a 4.44 diff ratio and won't work) - TZ102ZABAA I know from the '90-94 years that any of 'em will work if I match it to the rear diff....including the turbos. The '95-98 4eat's behind the EJ22 should be 4.11; the EJ25 are 4.44. Should I also get the TCU for the year that matches the tranny, if different from my '96? Anybody have any feedback? I'm hauling the car home tomorrow and if I have time would like to get the replacement tomorrow, too, to work on over the holiday (yeah - lots o' fun!). Found a few low milers for ~$550. Thanks, TD

I swapped a '95 EJ22 w/EGR (170K) into a '99 OB (142K) that had a failed crank bearing (?) due to the PO forgetting to check the oil. More info HERE. Before I started the engine, I disconnected the coil plug to turn it over w/out actually firing, 2X....I've heard to do this to ensure the oil gets where it needs to be?? The EJ22 was from a wrecking yard and had been sitting for who knows how long in their warehouse. I drained about 2 quarts of oil out of it before refilling and putting on a new filter. After re-connecting the coil, it started right up (NO CEL!!) but had what I believe was Rod Knock (?) for about the 1st 10-15 seconds. Since it went away I let the engine run 'til warm - didn't touch the throttle. No other weird noises and I took the car for a short drive and all seemed well. So, the Question is: Did that 10-15 seconds of rod knock hurt anything? Thanks, TD

Thanks to this site and its awesome members I completed my 1st 2.5 >> 2.2 swap. I swapped a '95 EJ22 w/EGR (170K) into a '99 OB (142K) that had a failed crank bearing (?) due to the PO forgetting to check the oil. Started on 1st try and NO CELs! Here is some swap info I observed: - The '99 4EAT tranny has the 6 bolts, and what a PITA they are to get to on the Driver's side! I removed the driver's side CV axle to get @ 'em. - The EJ22 had the locator pins and so did the tranny - be smarter than me and remove them from one or the other B4 installing the engine. - The original '99 OB starter worked perfect - both upper and lower mounting bolts were still in place. I was unclear on this but since I didn't swap trannys it was a non-issue. - The flex plate from '95 won't work - too small @ least on the '99 w/the newer 4EAT. Rule of thumb seems to be to always match the flexplate w/the tranny - not the engine. - The vac hoses are different as mentioned in previous posts: --On the EJ22 there are 2 that go to the charcol canister. I looped them back into each other. --There were also 2 on the passenger side of the intake manifold on the EJ22. There was one hose w/a T-connector that I found on the EJ25. I took the T-connector from EJ25 and used it to connect the longer hose to the sensor on the passenger strut tower, and put the extra EJ22 hose on the T. - I swapped the AC/Alt bracket from the EJ25 to the EJ22...it may not be necessary but couldn't get that small bracket piece under the AC to work (maybe I just needed a break!). Otherwise, the AC/ALT/PS all connected right up. The PS lines do stick out and won't connect to the EJ22. I removed the brackets from the lines, since they weren't being used. - Note that neither the AC compressor nor the PS pump need to be disconnected from their hoses - just swing them up and out of the way. When removing/installing the engine just go slow and move the AC hoses out of the way as needed. Thanks Again to ALL those providing the info to do this!

I got about 6 months out of an Autozone CV axle (don't recall the brand), which I also bought since I needed it 'yesterday'. If you have a Junk/Wrecking yard handy I would put in a used one before another Autozone one. You could also call a local Subie mechanic and see where they get theirs...they surely don't want to do the job again in 6 months. Good luck, TD

Check out http://bbs.legacycentral.org/. There is a ton of info specific to the '90-94 Legacy-NA and Turbo. I have the AT in my EJ22T (swapped into a '90), and 'might' get 24 MPG highway, but since I'm a boost addict, I'm usually around 20. This is w/double the stock boost (17psi), w/some other upgrades, including the Revtronix chip, which helps w/tuning. The AT is a strong tranny, if fluid is maintained and kept cool (put a tranny cooler on it to help make it last). The upside to the higher maintenance requirements of the EJ22T is that the block is arguably the strongest Subaru ever made. I'd look @ which one has the best maintenance history, so you know what you're getting into. Have fun, TD

I don't see an EGR on that JDM either, if yours has one. I'd also be wary of future parts replacement on that JDM intake manifold...if you have to replace the IAC, TB, etc, and they're different, getting parts and trouble-shooting will be harder, IMHO. FWIW, I've had/bought 3 EJ25D w/bad HG: 62K, 125K, and 135K. Td

That looks just like the WRX 6-disc player I installed in my '97 OB. Direct fit, but lost the compartment below AND the clock, if it matters to you. GL, TD

The stall test 'normal' values for the Phase 1 4EAT are: Non-turbo: 2550-2950 RPM Turbo: 2850-3250 RPM (Thanks to Legacy777 for this INFO - open this FILE: 4EAT_performance_test.zip.) For reference I found the WRX 4eat Phase II is 3200 RPM Stall Test Results Higher than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following: • Slippage of the forward clutch • O.W.C. not holding • Low/Reverse brake slipping • Overall low line pressure Lower than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following: • Incorrect throttle adjustment • Poor engine operation • Torque converter stator slippage FIXED w/a '92 Turbo 4eat transmission. I used the NA Torque Converter so I didn't have to swap the flex plate. I also used the NA TCU, which was working fine, according the guy I sold the car to. :-)

Smells very burnt.

My replacement transmission is from a '92 Turbo 4EAT. I know they're both 3.90 diff ratio, but the flex plate/torque converters are different. Anyone know if I can use the TC from the bad NA tranny and put it in the turbo tranny? Removing the flex plate is a PITA. Thanks for the help!

1. Checked the plugs and they were tight. Everything around the top of the tranny look untouched/original. I decided not to disconnect and drive it based on others' comments. 2. For the TC Stall test, I floored it w/the brakes on, and it wouldn't go higher than 2500 RPM in D. 3. Please take a look below - very dark, but didn't really see metal in the fluid:

I do NOT have Torque Bind...so doesn't sound electrical....which would be the easy(er) fix. Missed that the 1st time...tranny swapping time. Thanks

Thanks Gary....I'll check the fluid and connectors @ the tranny and under the dash, too. TD

Just bought a '92 Legacy L sedan to fix and put back on the road.....it has automatic tranny issues. -140K Miles Car won't move @ all in 1st. Moves in 2, 3 & D, but has only one gear - 3rd- Doesn't shift up or down - Hey, it's a CVT! Reverse works, but car is slow to engage. I drove it home on back roads @ up to 45 mph, and started to whine the longer I drove it (just like the ol' 4EAT in my '90 except all its gears still worked 'til I swapped in the turbo 4EAT). Once up to speed (30+) it would accelerate up to 50, and it climbed the previous owner's steep 1/4-mile long driveway w/out too much complaint.Tranny fluid doesn't look too bad, but does smell 'crispy'. NO TCU codes stored, either. I found this POST from Feb. '09, w/the same symptoms, although the car was OBDII. I'll do Nipper's TC test tomorrow: In that same post OB99W suggested an endwrench article that stated it was in 'limp' mode, which could be electrical or mechanical....since there are no codes, I'm guessing it's mechanical, which means repair the tranny's internals or replace it? Just wanted to confirm it's beyond a flush/refill/pray. Thanks TD

Correct From Cars101.com: 2.2-L, 135 horsepower, 4 cylinder boxer engine, 16 valve single overhead cam, multiport fuel injected 140 ft lbs torque, electronic distributorless ignition Old style is my semi-educated guess.... For reference, I had an early '98 OB (mfg. date 8/97) that still had the old style tensioner...different engine, but I've read the EJ22 and EJ25 used the same timing pulleys and tensioners so very likely SOA didn't change either engine 'til '98-ish. TD

Just to add to the above.... The Phase I EJ22 was the '90-99 (per Wikipedia). Multiple changes thru-out the years, such as moving to single-port heads in '96, and head/valve changes making the engine interference in '97, but they remained Phase I. TD

Hi, FYI - best to start a New Thread, rather than hi-jack this old one ('07). I'd check over on 'nasioc.com' and 'subaruforester.org'. GL, TD

I know there's a law (Magnuson-Moss?) against manufacturers (dealers?) requiring buyers to service their cars @ the dealer to maintain the warranty. If your warranty is provided by Subaru, it may be covered by the law.

I've had 2 experiences w/these - 2 different companies - both before I had Subaru(s). One was for some brake work that was covered; the other was an internal tie rod that wasn't. Unless you get the 'bumper-to-bumper' coverage (even then there are things not covered, which are considered 'maintenance items', etc.), it's too easy for the company to disallow the claim. Best option is to set aside the $$ each month for repairs....if you don't use it, it's there for a nice downpayment on your new Subaru!