wtdash

1997

Search on Legacy ej22 or 2.2 and you'll get lots of hits. A kit I recently bought inluded the belt, pulleys, cam seals, and water pump. But the tensioner (not the pulley tensioner) is separate and usually $$...not sure what the opinion is about how often to replace it. On my kit, the pulleys were different from OEM and the stock bolts didn't fit....too long. Search on here...my diagnostic skills are poor, but others have surely covered it.

+2 Buy the car. Unless you know the history, do the timing belt (yes, it's non-interference), which doesn't require pulling the engine, as stated by OLNICK...and when you're in there you'll likely find your oil leak...cam/crank seals. Do the waterpump too. The ebay kits for about $100 include most/all you'll need. Also, I've had 2 legacys w/leaking PS pumps that leaked down the front - SOA sells a rebuild kit pretty cheap, or so I've read - so check it out too. If you DO pull the engine, check the rear main..only touch it if it's leaking, otherwise leave it be. Replace the rear oil separator plate w/the updated metal one. If the MAF is bad, most all '90-98? Subies used the same one - the JECS/AUTOECS MAF....I've pulled half-dozen from a JY and they all worked fine, so don't buy a new one. p.s. Along w/oil leaks, the exhaust heat shields have a 'reputation' too.

Yes. What codes are you getting? td

Replaced the front VSS (#2) and speedo is still inconsistent. Sounds like I need a speedo head? Does it require a new speedo or is it a separate part? Reset the ECU by removing the Neg battery cable, to get rid of the CEL, but it'll be back. I also found the Green connectors under the driver's side dash, but no Black connectors (I do have 'me on my '90 legacy) per this LINK, which could be used to clear the codes. Thanks, Td

1996 Legacy Brighton Automatic, 180K. - Erratic Speedometer under 30mph. Usually works fine above - CEL - pulled codes @ Autozone = Vehicle Sensor A, Code P0500 - Electric VSS on the front of the tranny, near the diff dipstick. Code P0500 doesn't specifiy which VSS and all references I've seen state VSS 1 or VSS 2. Does VSS A = VSS1? From what I've read on here VSS1 is on the back of the tranny and VSS2 is on the front. This LINK also shows the VSS1 is on the back; VSS 2 on back. This POST , w/the exact same CEL info states it's 'on the tranny', but since theirs is a manual, I don't know which one? Since the speedo is affected, my guess it's the front one, but since that part (85082AC012) is $100, I'd rather not make a mistake. Thanks for any clarification!

If this is a hijack let me know, but hopefully it's just adding info... Is it just the bushing that needs replaced or is there something in/on the control arm, too? The bushing is about $60 online...should I just buy a new one or 'pull-n-save' it, if they rarely die? Thanks.

Can you try it w/OUT the driveshaft? Since the FWD fuse should do the same, it probably won't help, but may isolate the issue even more? good luck

Sorry, can't answer 'bulwnkl's' question....But wanted to add a 'heads up' about the Ebay kits. I bought one from 'domesticgaskets' and the smooth idler pulleys didn't come w/bolts and the stock ones were too long, as the kit's pulleys have a deeper recess. Wasn't a big deal, but if this relatively easy maintenance task was done on a late Sunday afternoon after the hardware/auto parts stores close, you may be walking come Monday a.m., unless you re-use the old pulleys!

Check out http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php and http://forums.nasioc.com/. Lots of swap info there. You'll be dealing w/considerably more HP/torque w/the turbo...so upgrading the clutch may be needed, but the tranny itself may be Ok....for awhile. The rear diff will need to match the tranny. I think the clutch is hydraulic on the turbos...but search above. Biggest issue will be engine management (EM) - OBDII on OBS vs. OBDI on EJ22T. You'll need a piggyback computer or similar. Good luck, Td

This isn't going to be as informative as I'd hoped as I didn't get many "before" pics or measurements....not sure WTH is up w/that. :-\ But @ least wanted to share that I installed '08 Forester FXT struts/springs/tophats - the complete assembly - on my '90 Legacy wagon.* I don't know what the difference is between the FXT model and regular Forester struts. I already had '98 Outback (OB) struts on it, which were getting weak. As they were used when I got them, I wanted to get new or almost new this go 'round. In looking around I could have gone w/replacements such as the GR2s, which I've seen on ebay or Monroes I've seen online. But I'd have to deal w/spring compressors and such. But I read on the USMB that Forester's should fit and came across a full set on SubaruForester.org w/only 18K miles. The fronts went in easy. The top hats were a perfect fit. I marked the top strut bolt, for alignment purposes, pulled the old, installed the new. The brake-line attachment is different on the Forester's strut - it's a U-shape, so I just wedged the metal section of the brake-line where the clip was installed on the old strut, and used a zip-tie to secure it on the Forester's. * The rears are more work. When I installed the OB struts the rear top hats' bolts didn't line up, so I took the 'ghetto/cheap/lazy' route and just drilled a new hole for one of the bolts, slightly enlarged the other 2 and the top hats fit. Thankfully, the Forester's rear top hats match the OB's, too. So, I was good to go. I used a floor jack on the underside of the brake drum to push up a bit to level it out so the strut bolts would go in easily. I did the same 'mod' w/the brake lines as the fronts. The ride is much firmer, which I wanted. The front end sits higher, probably a 1/2 inch or more than before, although the struts didn't appear longer. The rear struts on the OB are notably longer - see below. So I've now got more gap between the top of the tire and fender in the front than the rear. But the car seems more level..it had kind of a 'nose-down' appearance w/the OB struts. I wonder if Forester fronts and OB rears might be an ideal combo? I took it in for an alignment and they adjusted both fronts (apparently I didn't get my bolts back in the same place) and the left rear's camber (?). But from the rear it still looks like it's riding on the outside of the tires....not sure it's an issue - they didn't comment on it @ the shop. Here are some pics of a comparison of Forester struts (on the left in the pics) vs. the OB struts: Fronts: Rears: Rears 2: And the only before and after pics I have. Side view w/OB struts and 205/70R-15 snow tires (26.29 in. tall): Side view w/FXT struts and 205/60R-16 tires (25.68 in. tall): Front view w/FXTs: Rear view w/FXTs: Let me know what y'all think. Thanks, Td

Old post, but wanted to update since it's fixed (can't edit the original post). Swapped in a used IAC and my high idle when cold is gone, and seems to have fixed a surging idle once warm it also had . For the record, the wiring harness was from a '91 turbo - my engine and IAC were from a '93 turbo. The replacement IAC was from a '91...shouldn't matter, though. I'll have to wait 'til next winter to see if fixed the <0 degrees F issue, too.

I'd take this up on a Porsche site. They may be significantly different than a Subaru, even if they're both flat 4's. On a Subaru the a leaking oil separator plate allows oil to drip on the exhaust, etc. Please start a new thread. Don't 'hijack' an existing one. Good luck, Td

I have a hard 1>>2 shift, also ('96 Legacy Brighton). This [/url] LINK and this LINK describe and show the 4EAT 'dropping resistor' as well as discusses the Duty Solenoids. Looks like a Duty A or B could also cause the issue as they control shifting? Td

I bought the short block w/a bunch of other turbo parts, incl. heads and intake, from a guy locally....and they were all used when he got them, too. So hard to say. But I (am) was too much of a noob to check for these issues when I bought it.

Looking for confirmation on what I'm afraid is bad news: When I was putting in the rear main seal on my EJ22T project, the crank would move in/out-forward/aft a good 1/8". Rumor is this means the bearings/rings need replaced, which of course requires splitting the engine open...... Not currently in my bag of mechanical skills. The engine has roughly 160K on it, so maybe it's due anyway. I was told the engine may run this way for awhile (or Not), but could cause further damage to the block rendering it junk. Comments welcomed before I put anymore time into this. Thanks Td

Here's an option. Found it HERE: I imported my Legacy last summer it is a 2 litre twin turbo (GTB) has been modified to run the turbo's in parallel plus quite a bit more With this set up the VOD (valley of death,the lag between the first turbo and the larger second one kicking in) is no more and pulls very hard from around 3000 rpm to the redline

It was a used one I got from a local Subie shop. It lasted 1.5 years longer than the new one from autozone:rolleyes:. Thanks

Weird issue this weekend when I swapped in my 'new-to-me' Forest FXT stuts (Pics and post to follow soon). When I removed the driver's side front strut, the whole hub just flopped outwards, and when I tried to push it back upright it wouldn't go initially. After a few more tries I finally got it to go back in so I could install the new strut. Both inner/outer boots looked good - not tears/rips/leaking grease. After getting everything put back together I now have the click of a a bad CVJ/DOJ - when accelerating/turning/etc. So, my guess it was on its way out anyway? Thanks

Well done! Look forward to hearing how it runs/drives. And as usual, the install looks great. Do you have your engine mod list posted - turbo/injectors/etc?

Seats and struts should swap. Check out rs25.com for turbo'ing the DOHC. Check out http://www.subaruforester.org/ for related info, too. Have fun.

Welcome to the board. This issue is in the Top 5 on here. Please SEARCH for more info.. Here's MINE to get you started. Good luck. P.s. Better to start your own Post than 'hi-jack' another's.

Drain and replace 2x more and see....cheaper than fixing it. Be careful refilling as it's easy to overfill...I've read on here that the difference between Low and Full is about a pint - not much!

Pic of IAC (thanks Legacy777): And a cleaning method from HERE: Dirty IAC valve. The procedure has been posted a couple times on other sites, but in short you have carbon dust build up that is making the idle controller stick. Easiest way to clean: Remove pcv valve Remove top (electronic portion) of IAC Remove hose for the IAC at the intake side Fill hose with plenty of carb cleaner, while turning the valve Fill the tube again and this time blow while turning, air and cleaner will escape through the PCV valve hole Repeat as needed. You should feel ZERO drag when turning the valve. Reassemble and try it.

$1250 for a '96 Legacy Brighton, 180K. Clean and runs well.