wtdash

It was a used one I got from a local Subie shop. It lasted 1.5 years longer than the new one from autozone:rolleyes:. Thanks

Weird issue this weekend when I swapped in my 'new-to-me' Forest FXT stuts (Pics and post to follow soon). When I removed the driver's side front strut, the whole hub just flopped outwards, and when I tried to push it back upright it wouldn't go initially. After a few more tries I finally got it to go back in so I could install the new strut. Both inner/outer boots looked good - not tears/rips/leaking grease. After getting everything put back together I now have the click of a a bad CVJ/DOJ - when accelerating/turning/etc. So, my guess it was on its way out anyway? Thanks

Well done! Look forward to hearing how it runs/drives. And as usual, the install looks great. Do you have your engine mod list posted - turbo/injectors/etc?

Seats and struts should swap. Check out rs25.com for turbo'ing the DOHC. Check out http://www.subaruforester.org/ for related info, too. Have fun.

Welcome to the board. This issue is in the Top 5 on here. Please SEARCH for more info.. Here's MINE to get you started. Good luck. P.s. Better to start your own Post than 'hi-jack' another's.

Drain and replace 2x more and see....cheaper than fixing it. Be careful refilling as it's easy to overfill...I've read on here that the difference between Low and Full is about a pint - not much!

Pic of IAC (thanks Legacy777): And a cleaning method from HERE: Dirty IAC valve. The procedure has been posted a couple times on other sites, but in short you have carbon dust build up that is making the idle controller stick. Easiest way to clean: Remove pcv valve Remove top (electronic portion) of IAC Remove hose for the IAC at the intake side Fill hose with plenty of carb cleaner, while turning the valve Fill the tube again and this time blow while turning, air and cleaner will escape through the PCV valve hole Repeat as needed. You should feel ZERO drag when turning the valve. Reassemble and try it.

$1250 for a '96 Legacy Brighton, 180K. Clean and runs well.

Google found THIS, which says 4.11, but no specific model listed. Also, search on car-part.com as they will show part numbers occasionally. Good luck.

Auto? In P or D make any difference?

Same question popped up about a week back....HERE. Should help, too. P.s. Check the rear wheel bearings, too. Good luck, Td

Is there a key code on the valet key or in the Owner's manual? A locksmith should be able to make one from that info, too. Good luck.

If the timing belt covers are melted, that is also a sign of a badly overheated engine - per a Subaru mechanic (not me) who has done 'hundreds' of HG repairs. good luck p.s. Have your friend spend some time on this forum reading about the 2.5 and the 2.2 swap....he might change his mind....esp. after seeing the cost of a replacement 2.5 vs. a 2.2.

Search on here to confirm, but the Forester/Impreza got the SOHC 2.5 in '99, too. (Legacy/Outback in 2000.) Per cars101.com: 1999 Forester Engine - new Phase II 2.5 liter 4 cylinder, 16 valve SOHC (single overhead cam) Boxer engine as opposed to Phase I DOHC (double overhead cam) 1999 Impreza:Full time All-Wheel-Drive New for 1999: new Phase II 2.2 and 2.5L engines,.....

Here's some updated info: All AWD; '90-91 Non-turbo 4EAT = 4.11 '91-94 Turbo 4EAT = 3.90 '92-94 Non-turbo 4EAT = 3.90 '95-? - EJ22 + 4EAT = 4.11 Here's one REFERENCE. FWD 4EAT are 3.70 - for the 1990 @ least - HERE.

Learn something new every day. I replaced the wipers last nite and they were 2" shorter than OEM, which now makes sense as they were likely 'shortened' to not hit on the Edgeguard??? Althought they still hit/rest on the bottom Edgeguard when turned off. Thanks for what I believe to be the 'final answer'.

For a windshield replacement? Well, I know the PO was computer geek and the guy b4 him a professor @ local college.....enough said? Or maybe a bit too much. Thanks for the info!

We just got a '96 Legacy Brighton and it has a strange plastic trim around the outside of the windshield. It's about 4" wide on the bottom and top and 2" on the sides, thicker than any tint film I've seen, and is stuck under the windshield's original moulding. It's falling off now and I intend to remove the rest of it.....just curious as to its purpose??? The PO didn't know either. The original top-edge tint is visible in this pic, and it's barely any wider??

Car doesn't pull when brakes are applied - either when they work well or badly. I've not checked the line w/a vac gauge....don't have one...yet. I'm thinking it's the brake booster, since it's doing it in cold or warm weather. And since there's a different part number for the Turbo vs. NA, my original '90 NA booster may be wrong for the '93 Turbo. I read on LCBBS that a '97 Impreza 'single diaphragm' (my '90 is dual) might be a good replacement/upgrade. And mine is a NON-ABS and has 4 brake line connections...looks like the ABS only have 2? Anyone know what other Subarus will fit? Thanks

Search on here and I bet you'll find the missing EGR will throw a code...that's why the '95 Automatic w/EGR is used (learned this one the hard way). Since your sis is maintenance-challenged, you'll likely ensure whichever engine you swap in is 'good to go' for another 60- 100k anyway, so the interference issue should be moot. Make sure you get the Y-pipe for whichever you use - dual vs. single port. Good luck.

- Tried the WD40 trick on the vac hose - no luck. - Installed another hose from my '93 SS donor and still not fixed. (I don't know the condition of this hose - never drove the car.) But this a.m. it was about 25 degrees F when I started the car and headed out -city driving. I hit the brakes 2x and they seemed OK. I accelerated up to about 35, just got into boost (EJ22T swap), and then hit brakes to slow down and there was almost no stopping power! I pushed harder and still not better. I released the brakes and pumped them a couple times and they felt 'dead' - like they do when pushed w/the engine off. So, I'm thinking there's more to this than just a hose. Also, I forgot to add in the OP, that I also installed SS brake lines on the front. Brake booster? Master cylinder? Calipers? As stated in the OP, I swapped in Forester calipers/rotors of unknown mileage - How would I know if they need a rebuild? Thanks for any more feedback.

Hmm, that could be the issue as I recently installed a hood scoop for my turbo swap, which lets in air right where the vac line is. I'll give the WD40 trick a try until I can replace the hose/check valve. Thank- you

Temps have been right around freezing.

Rear discs (drum parking brake).

'90 Legacy 160K - AT/AWD/NO ABS. When braking, sometimes I can push the pedal as hard as I can, and the car will slowly come to a stop; Other times, I can lock up the tires (non-abs). I can pump the brakes and it seems to help bring back full stopping power. Also, I swapped in '99 Forester front brakes - calipers and rotors- no difference, although the car seems to stop better when the brakes are working properly. Pads and rotors both good. I've bled the brakes twice in the last 3 months w/this procedure: - Remove most of the brake fluid from MC; fill w/new fluid. - Connect the 'one-man bleeder' kit's hose to the bleed valve w/collection bottle above bleed valve. - Open bleed valve. - Slowly push brake pedal to floor and release. - Check hose for bubbles. - Repeat until no bubbles. - On last brake pedal push, keep pedal depressed, and tighten bleed valve. In this order: right front>>left rear>>left front>>right rear . Also, I tested the MC by pushing the brake w/key off, and holding while starting the engine. The pedal moves very little (maybe a 1/8"-barely noticeable) after engine is running. What's it sound like? Thanks