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In Turkey, do you have the same warranty as US - 3 years/58,000Km for basic and 5 years/97,000Km for powertrain? If so, take it to the dealer. They should fix it under warranty. My old Legacy acts the same way when it's -18C/0F and colder temperature. I believe I have a bad temperature sensor or a MAP pressure sensor (I have a turbo). Good luck. P.S. Does Turkey drive on the left or right side of the road?

The Aussies get all the cool stuff. Would this work (requires a hitch), or too big?

90-99 Fronts are bolt on from legacy or outback....obviously you'll get a lift w/the '96 - '99 Outbacks. '98 - '04 Foresters are also rumored to fit...there are pics on here somewhere....don't know about Imprezas. Remember to mark the top(?) bolt as it adjusts the camber for the front suspensoin. Put it back where you found it and you shouldn't need it re-aligned. The rears will need the top hats changed for '95 + (didn't know the '91s were unique), or you can 'ghetto' it like I did and just drill one hole - 10K miles and no issues. good luck

I would search on here about compatibility, since the '95 is a different generation and the '92 TCU may not like the '95. Also, in '95 they went back to a 4.11 diff ratio for the automatics so you'll need to swap the rear diff (PITA). Automatics only: - '90-91 - 4.11 diff - '92 - 94 - 3.90 diff - '95 - ? - 4.11 diff (ej22 only)

+1 Check out this dedicated '90-94 Legacy site: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ The ECU wiring is different (cam and crank, etc.), wiring on intake and for turbo (of course) is different....you might be able to run the NA engine off the turbo ECU, but would likely cause a bunch of CELs, which may make it run poorly. I just swapped an EJ22T into my EJ22 NA....I had a complete donor car, which made it much easier. Many would argue the EJ22T is the best turbo engine Subaru ever built. If you've got a bad one, it's an exception - not the rule. I'd be interested in how your friend's was maintained/driven and # of miles.

hello, What's a 'tune' assembly? Tube? As in the filler tube? If it is tube then not likely as they are different body styles. Call Subaru dealer for part numbers and compare. Td

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp This will allow you to compare tire sizes to the stock size and even tells you how much your speedo will be off....nice tool. Good luck.

Found this LINK: Imprenza <sic> models have the ECU and test connectors located behind the right side of the dash, instead of the left. Hope it helps.

I'm putting a set of stock heads on an EJ22T that have been 're-surfaced' per the original owner, but don't know if the rocker assemblies were removed to do this. If they were I probably need to bleed the HLA's, correct? Is there anyway to tell if they need bled? According to the FSM, it looks to be a PITA. Thanks!

I hate to disagree when I'm not in the same tech league, but according to this site: http://www.obdii.com/connector.html the '95 Legacy - A/T models only - were OBDII. And I had a '95 Legacy w/an AT, and remember it having the connector...although I don't recall its 'build' date. This also makes some sense as the '95 2.2 w/AT (and EGR) is the preferred engine of choice to replace the 2.5 in Outbacks/LSi/GTs. Thanks

That's an early '95....so likely it's OBDI, but just in case, do you have one of these OBDII connectors under the dash?

This is called 'hi-jacking the thread' and is heavily frowned upon as it interferes w/the thread's progress. Please SEARCH 1st (your question is answered elsewhere on this site) and if you don't find it then start your own Thread. Thanks

Look underneath @ the tranny pan...if it's dented you likely have this ISSUE. Pull the codes - Autozones let you use the OBDII scanner for free. Good luck. TD

Gloyale, I'm replacing the 4EAT on a '93 Legacy SS w/in the next couple of weeks. I'll try to get it out w/out dropping it, too....and take pics if I succeed. If I can't, do I just remove/loosen the 4 bolts or do the P/S lines and steering linkage need disconnected too? Which isn't a big deal, I guess. The engine is out of the car (in my '90 now ), and we replaced my '90's 4EAT last summer from underneath...w/2 helpers it wasn't too bad, but I'll be doing this one solo. Thanks, Td

Sounds like the TC isn't seated properly. It should spin freely w/the engine/tranny bolts connected - (not the TC/flex plate bolts). Check this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=seat+torque+converter Also, check the model number on the tranny to compare, and search on here for info. Remember! The diff ratios- front and rear must match. The OB AT is 4.44; regular Legacys are 4.11. You can swap these, but you'll also need to swap the rear diff. Don't know what the plug in the tail shaft is for. Good luck.

So....did you pull the codes? If you want 'electronics' info that's my 1st suggestion. Takes 5 minutes and you don't have to drive the car. Big snow, indeed!! 30 inches in my front yard in the last 18 hours!

Sir Nipper, it looks like you're the winner!

Does the Power light flash? It can store old codes, too, w/out flashing each time it's turned on. Did you try to pull the codes from the TCU? Here's how: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html Any torque bind when turning on dry pavement? My '90 did the same thing but only took 1-2 seconds for the AWD to kick in. I had to file down the grooves on the rear output shaft to fix. There are a couple posts on here about that procedure. Good luck.

Hmm, I know the shop that you're referring to and this isn't the 1st misdiagnosed issue I've heard/read about. Does the Power light flash w/the key on? Here's how to read and pull the Trans error codes: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html You'll be looking for 'previous problems'. Are you sure the torque converter was properly seated? It's a pain to get back in just right. There are posts here about doing it.

From Legacy Central (they deal specifically w/the '90-94 Legacy): http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm You should also be able to just disconnect the negative battery cable for 1 hour, but not sure if this completely clears the codes or just resets the ECU (not the same thing). Good luck!

Codes are: 45: Pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve (I have an FCD installed) and 49: Air flow sensor - Left over from when I temporarily had a different MAF installed. Both should have been cleared, since I removed the Neg. batt. cable for over an hour after putting the stock MAF back in, and finished the FCD installed. Car runs fine once warmed up!

I noticed this O-ring was loose when I cleaned the IAC, but not having an extra lying/laying around I put it back where I 'think' it went. Does it go around the 1st step or the 2nd step above the base? In the pic below the 2 steps are visible (thanks JC/Legacy777):

UPDATE: I briefly (maybe 2 secs) got a CEL this am.....likely was there yesterday, too, but today I was looking for it. However, the RPMs did not surge like yesterday. I'll pull the codes tonite. There was also a clicking noise coming from the front dash - w/the defroster on and off. What relays sit under there? At the risk of being focused on the wrong thing, I think this is due to the super cold weather. We're to stay well before freezing, w/overnite temps below 0, for the next week!

This is a '90 Legacy w/a '93 EJ22T swapped in - 130K miles. Has had a high idle (1800+) til fully warm since the swap - I've check vacuum lines. Cleaned the IAC and got a little better. I swapped the front Coolant sensor out a week ago, which made no difference. This a.m. on a 0 degrees day (-20 wind chill) started it up and it idled high but started to surge 500+ RPM - to 2500 RPM for just a second then would return to the 1800 RPM...also, the cooling fans would cycle on/off @ the same time. After 5 mins it the surging ceased and after 10 mins the idle returned to normal - 700 ish RPM once it was warm. The heater was on HEAT only- neither the Heat/Def nor the Def were on. Any feedback is appreciated.

Sorry, but only the Sport Sedan (turbo) had the 3.90 VLSD in '91.....you should have a sticker on your rear diff (see my earlier post) w/info. Td