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I would add to the above: - Rear wheel bearings seem to be a frequent maintenance item, but you're still on the low side for miles @ 90k - TSB HERE - There may be a TSB for the HG leak - more info HERE If your car is local, check the Subaru dealer to see if the car has been in for the above or other issues. - I've heard a few people complain about a lack of room in the back seats, so if you haul adults it may be an issue; probably not w/the kidlets. Note: You may need to create an account on 'scooobymods' to view the links.

Check out Ebait Motors (ebay)...I use it for just this kind of stuff, and cars101.com may have pics specific to your car.

Hello, '97 OB? You'll likely need an OBDII scanner (or is Canada different?). I'd do just a REPLACEMENT of the AT fluid - not a FLUSH. Flushing can bring out other issues....in my case I lost reverse. If it is the clutches or the Duty C this can be fixed w/the tranny in the car for <$1000 (US). There's a detailed write-up on here that I used successfully, if you're mechanically inclined/brave. Good luck.

Some of the previous models of Geo's didn't get great reviews - the A/T-S may be better. Here are the top 4 from a 'leading consumer mag': Goodyear Assurance TripleTred Michelin X Radial (Club Tire) Hankook Mileage Plus II H725 Yokohama Avid TRZ Don't know pricing, but Michelin's aren't cheap!

I did a quick check online (autozone - do not buy from them!) and the part numbers are the same for both of your years/models of Legacy - the only diff (pun intended) is Left and Right...on the rear CV axles only. However, when I looked on 1st Subaru Parts website, there is a listing for '95-97 and '98-2000 for the Legacy.... I don't know what, if any, difference there is. I also thought they were all the same, so I had to look for my own info. Also, since there is no distinction for '96-97 axles between Outback and L models online, the rear diff ratio shouldn't matter. Since you have the '98 axles, too, I guess you're good to go...however, swapping a rear diff is a PITA....esp. twice.

Seats look good and appear to have the same adjustments...put some sheepskins on them, if it's a looks thing. Have fun.

Yes, but it's not fun. I'd Search on here about tricks on changing plugs - could save a lot of time....the 2.5 is even tougher to change. Get the codes. Good luck.

Searched but not yet found. Thanks

In Turkey, do you have the same warranty as US - 3 years/58,000Km for basic and 5 years/97,000Km for powertrain? If so, take it to the dealer. They should fix it under warranty. My old Legacy acts the same way when it's -18C/0F and colder temperature. I believe I have a bad temperature sensor or a MAP pressure sensor (I have a turbo). Good luck. P.S. Does Turkey drive on the left or right side of the road?

The Aussies get all the cool stuff. Would this work (requires a hitch), or too big?

90-99 Fronts are bolt on from legacy or outback....obviously you'll get a lift w/the '96 - '99 Outbacks. '98 - '04 Foresters are also rumored to fit...there are pics on here somewhere....don't know about Imprezas. Remember to mark the top(?) bolt as it adjusts the camber for the front suspensoin. Put it back where you found it and you shouldn't need it re-aligned. The rears will need the top hats changed for '95 + (didn't know the '91s were unique), or you can 'ghetto' it like I did and just drill one hole - 10K miles and no issues. good luck

I would search on here about compatibility, since the '95 is a different generation and the '92 TCU may not like the '95. Also, in '95 they went back to a 4.11 diff ratio for the automatics so you'll need to swap the rear diff (PITA). Automatics only: - '90-91 - 4.11 diff - '92 - 94 - 3.90 diff - '95 - ? - 4.11 diff (ej22 only)

+1 Check out this dedicated '90-94 Legacy site: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ The ECU wiring is different (cam and crank, etc.), wiring on intake and for turbo (of course) is different....you might be able to run the NA engine off the turbo ECU, but would likely cause a bunch of CELs, which may make it run poorly. I just swapped an EJ22T into my EJ22 NA....I had a complete donor car, which made it much easier. Many would argue the EJ22T is the best turbo engine Subaru ever built. If you've got a bad one, it's an exception - not the rule. I'd be interested in how your friend's was maintained/driven and # of miles.

hello, What's a 'tune' assembly? Tube? As in the filler tube? If it is tube then not likely as they are different body styles. Call Subaru dealer for part numbers and compare. Td

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp This will allow you to compare tire sizes to the stock size and even tells you how much your speedo will be off....nice tool. Good luck.

Found this LINK: Imprenza <sic> models have the ECU and test connectors located behind the right side of the dash, instead of the left. Hope it helps.

I'm putting a set of stock heads on an EJ22T that have been 're-surfaced' per the original owner, but don't know if the rocker assemblies were removed to do this. If they were I probably need to bleed the HLA's, correct? Is there anyway to tell if they need bled? According to the FSM, it looks to be a PITA. Thanks!

I hate to disagree when I'm not in the same tech league, but according to this site: http://www.obdii.com/connector.html the '95 Legacy - A/T models only - were OBDII. And I had a '95 Legacy w/an AT, and remember it having the connector...although I don't recall its 'build' date. This also makes some sense as the '95 2.2 w/AT (and EGR) is the preferred engine of choice to replace the 2.5 in Outbacks/LSi/GTs. Thanks

That's an early '95....so likely it's OBDI, but just in case, do you have one of these OBDII connectors under the dash?

This is called 'hi-jacking the thread' and is heavily frowned upon as it interferes w/the thread's progress. Please SEARCH 1st (your question is answered elsewhere on this site) and if you don't find it then start your own Thread. Thanks

Look underneath @ the tranny pan...if it's dented you likely have this ISSUE. Pull the codes - Autozones let you use the OBDII scanner for free. Good luck. TD

Gloyale, I'm replacing the 4EAT on a '93 Legacy SS w/in the next couple of weeks. I'll try to get it out w/out dropping it, too....and take pics if I succeed. If I can't, do I just remove/loosen the 4 bolts or do the P/S lines and steering linkage need disconnected too? Which isn't a big deal, I guess. The engine is out of the car (in my '90 now ), and we replaced my '90's 4EAT last summer from underneath...w/2 helpers it wasn't too bad, but I'll be doing this one solo. Thanks, Td

Sounds like the TC isn't seated properly. It should spin freely w/the engine/tranny bolts connected - (not the TC/flex plate bolts). Check this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925&highlight=seat+torque+converter Also, check the model number on the tranny to compare, and search on here for info. Remember! The diff ratios- front and rear must match. The OB AT is 4.44; regular Legacys are 4.11. You can swap these, but you'll also need to swap the rear diff. Don't know what the plug in the tail shaft is for. Good luck.

So....did you pull the codes? If you want 'electronics' info that's my 1st suggestion. Takes 5 minutes and you don't have to drive the car. Big snow, indeed!! 30 inches in my front yard in the last 18 hours!

Sir Nipper, it looks like you're the winner!