wtdash

Low temps and high humidity/snow/etc? How about sticking brakes? Even though the parking brake released, did it or another one stick after stopping? Is it still doing it? Or did it eventually go away after driving it awhile? Yeah, Mr. Nipper said it 1st, (edit) the torque bind is usually felt in turns - the rear wheels act like their being dragged along, like driving a 4WD (not AWD) vehicle on dry pavement....and more of an AT tranny issue.

Check this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87708 Maybe it's worth a shot. Does yours make any unusual noise when accelerating? Mine did and had the delay...I tried a Lucas additive (didn't know about the above), but didn't help, so I swapped it out for another used one. Good luck. Good luck.

I can't tell you how hard it was since it's relative to your experience. For me, this was my 1st swap and 1st turbo experience. Only my 2nd engine pull. I replaced the tranny in the same car last summer w/the help of 2 much more experienced helpers. I did it all myself and also had another car to drive while I did it....took about 3 weeks, working after work and on weekends....this includes the time I spent cleaning up the engine while on a stand, putting in new plugs and timing belt kit, configuring the updated TD04 turbo and intercooler I added, etc. Here's a partial list of things you'll need: - turbo's cross member for the up-pipe (I re-used my NA's R&P - swapped w/out removing the R&P) - turbo's p/s hoses (my NA's rubbed on the turbo's downpipe & are still tight) - turbo's exhaust - turbo's sensors/harness - 3 -4 on the pass. strut tower + the wiring to the ECU - turbo's ECU - there are also a wiring swap w/the cam and crank sensors - modify your NA radiator hoses to work w/the turbo's reservoir tank - The turbo radiator is too tall - @ least on my '90. - Tranny? I installed a Turbo 4EAT last summer, so I was good to go. An NA 5-speed or AT should bolt up, but how long will it last? Since you have the whole car, it'll make it easier since everything you'll need is right @ hand. Check out the http://bbs.legacycentral.org site...lots of info - I couldn't have done it w/out it and Legacy777 - thanks JC! BUT I'd do it again! The power boost is great and it was overall a fun project (except when the TC came loose just as I was getting the engine in! ) Have Fun!

Going off what (little) technical knowledge I have, I thought since the rotational mass was less, it freed-up HP, even if minor?

Per Cars101.com: The 2000 -? OB has LSD and the 2000-2002+? Forester (X) S had LSD...these were pre-turbo.

Check out this site too: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ A little more info...the stock Legacy Turbo - EJ22T - put out 160HP/180ft-lbs torque @ 8.7psi - this is CRANK HP - not @ the wheels. That was on a closed-deck, performance-built block and internals. I just swapped one into my '90 Leg wagon, and w/12psi, I might be @ 190HP (based on 1psi=10HP that I keep reading about). The EJ22e in yours is an open-deck and not designed for lots of boost, since it's got a higher comp. ratio than the EJ22T. Going w/cams (Delta) can net you 160+HP (common w/the airplane crowd), but you'll need some eng. management (EM) to run it. A lightweight pulley 'may' net 5HP. An ignition upgrade, such as MSD, may add ???HP. Read/Search as there are more options out there....just some things to consider. Have Fun!

I don't believe in '98 the OB had an LSD. Subaru is a bit inconsistent w/their (V)LSD applications. Here's a reference for you: http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinycontent/rewrite/tc_28.html Also, did you check the back of the rear diff - this an older one, but should work as an example:

Didn't think about them for exhaust...but I'll call 'em up. Thanks

I have an Turbo down pipe and WRX cat-back I need 'customized' to fit my '90 Legacy EJ22T Wagon. It needs lengthened and re-bent. If you know of a shop, please let me know!

Yes..older post...but i was going to post this pic the day site went down! Same Code/Same reason (bent tranny pan-broken wire)/Same result Thanks for the info...it fixed my issue!

Wanted to add that these tire sizes work well w/the OB struts. I've tried them all - you may get some rubbing @ full steering lock : 205/70R-15 - Stock size for '96 - 99 Outback and '98-02 Forester, I believe. On the rear tires, there is very little clearance between the fender @ the front of the tire..... be advised if using 4-wheel tire chains, for example. 205/60R-16 - 16" wheels from newer Legacy/Baja/Forester/Impreza/WRX will work....but not SVX/Tribeca (18")/STI (17") '05+ as they are a 5x114 bolt pattern. 205/75R-14 - If you just want to fill up the wheel well, these work on the stock rims and are very close to the 205/70R-15. Have Fun!

On my '90 w/OB struts and 205-70R/15s @ 70 MPH the speedo was slow by 5 MPH according to the GPS...BUT i can't verify it was correct b4 the lift and wheel upgrade...so your mileage will vary . Just don't want anyone getting a ticket!

Wow, tough crowd!:-\ Hmmm, I read the can, read many posts here and elsewhere online (albeit most were about the intake; not the crankcase). Not sure what else I woulda/coulda/shoulda done....other than leave well enough alone. I'll get that oil changed, b4 I incur any more wrath. The good news is that the car has ran fine the last 2 days. Unfortunately the slight idle problem persists....but that'll hopefully be rectified w/a 'little' swap I have planned. Thanks again for the input. USMB Rocks!

Yes, I did read where it might be hard on seals, even though I put in less than 5 oz. of the stuff..might just change the oil No CELs...but this is OBDI, so it may not be as 'sensitive' as the OBDIIs? Thanks

Nope...did I miss something? I thought it was like an 'oil treatment'. The instructions HERE don't mention doing an oil change.....so I figured I'd wait 'til my next LOF.

All those items are about a year old. I've read more online and I'll just give it another few days to 'work thru the system'. (I hope!) Thanks

'90 Legacy. Due to some idle issues and 150K on the Odo, I decided to do a Seafoam treatment. I used the PVC inlet and put 1/3rd thru the intake, 1/3rd in the crankcase, and 1/3rd in the tank. There was 1/4 tank of gas left when I put in the Seafoam, but I filled it the next day. It ran rough even after the exhaust ran clean - acted like ony 2 - 3 cylinders were firing. Took it for a short drive and smoothed out - back to 'normal'. The next day started up and ran rough for the 1st 2 minutes, but then smoothed out again by the time I got to work (~5 min. commute). I changed all 4 plugs that night in case one got fouled. Next day ran fine but I went over a speed bump a little fast and the car ran rough for a few seconds, but smoothed out. This a.m. the car started to run rough again after a couple minutes of commuting....never did smooth out b4 I got to work. Any ideas?

I'd do a Search here for more info ...Here's my spiel: I did this to my '90 Legacy. All you need are the struts - the complete unit - I got mine from a JY for $150 for all 4. The only issue is on the rear end where the top-hat bolt holes on the '95 may be different than the '96+ OBs (the '95 OB wasn't lifted). But I'd bet they're a direct swap. On my '90 I just drilled a hole to match the top hat and I've had no issues in the last year/10K+ miles. Other people have played around w/different springs and such, but I didn't want to deal w/spring compressors and top hats. I run 205/60R-16 tires on WRX wheels, and I use 205/70R-15 (stock OB tires up 'til about 2000?) for my winter tires. They both rub slightly @ full lock, but otherwise cause no issues and wear evenly. Remember to mark the top strut bolt on the front struts b4 removal - it's oval to adjust the alignment - put it back where you found it and you won't need an alignment (unless it's already out)- I didn't. My speedo is off between 5-8% so I just keep that in mind @ 70mph....in town it's not an issue. Here's a great tool for calculating: http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp Lastly, there are a few links on here about using Forester struts, too, and I know another member put '04 Forester struts on his '95 Legacy....but can't find the link. Have Fun:)

Thanks to ALL for your feedback. It's appreciated! Live and Learn...or just read more USMB posts! I've decided to fix the HG in lieu of trying to make the non-egr 2.2 work. Since I'm reselling this car, and if the buyer is from (nearby) WA they'll need to pass inspection - perhaps including a visual -I don't want to 'fubar' this. CCR in CO (I called them about an intake they sell) told me about Jeremy; a Subie mechanic known as 'SubaruGuru'. He works out of Colville, WA 509-684-3384. He's going to repair the HG for $500 - parts/labor/head machining. I already pulled the engine. He told me he worked @ a Subie dealership for 14 years and has done 'hundreds of head gasktes' and lots of 2.2 swaps, so I'm confident that'll I get a good repair. He said the latest/greatest HG takes care of the issue?? Thanks again!

Can I just replace the intake manifold with one w/an EGR? Or do I need a complete engine w/the EGR?

Hello, I've searched (probably not enough), but only found info on going from egr or non-egr to non-egr. I'm (hopefully) swapping a '95 EJ22 from a manual into a '98 Outback w/an AT (yes, another bad HG). Will I get a CEL because the EJ22 doesn't have an EGR port for the one on the OB? Is there a work-around for this? I plan on reselling the car, and don't want issues w/codes. Thanks

Do the newer 2.2's have the access hole on the top - back, under the intake? If so, that's where I've done mine on a '90 and '93 Legacy. I moved/removed a few hoses/wires and the intake stuff to get @ it. I'm looking to do the swap - 2.2>>>'98 OB (yes, another blown HG) - in the next couple weeks, too. Good luck. Td

I believe this means it is closer to a 50/50 split front and rear. No extra reduction, as there is no 'dual-range' (low and high) 4WD option - unless you have one in your country - you'd know this as you'd have an extra lever. Like this: 4 speed automatics in most cars I've driven have an extra 1/2 a gear before the overdrive....If I have a slight hill, my 4EAT will down shift slightly and the RPMs will rise a few hundred. If it gets steeper, it'll then shift to 3rd and RPMs will rise a thousand or more. If I step on the accelerator enough, it'll skip the 1/2 gear and go straight from overdrive to 3rd. Does that sound accurate?

Okay this is bad news! I just started this swap! Do I dare use the stock one, or get out the sledge and make room?

I just read over on LegacyCentral.org that the ECU/computer needs to match your transmission.....just an idea. Good Luck.