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Does the Power light flash? It can store old codes, too, w/out flashing each time it's turned on. Did you try to pull the codes from the TCU? Here's how: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html Any torque bind when turning on dry pavement? My '90 did the same thing but only took 1-2 seconds for the AWD to kick in. I had to file down the grooves on the rear output shaft to fix. There are a couple posts on here about that procedure. Good luck.

Hmm, I know the shop that you're referring to and this isn't the 1st misdiagnosed issue I've heard/read about. Does the Power light flash w/the key on? Here's how to read and pull the Trans error codes: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html You'll be looking for 'previous problems'. Are you sure the torque converter was properly seated? It's a pain to get back in just right. There are posts here about doing it.

From Legacy Central (they deal specifically w/the '90-94 Legacy): http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm You should also be able to just disconnect the negative battery cable for 1 hour, but not sure if this completely clears the codes or just resets the ECU (not the same thing). Good luck!

Codes are: 45: Pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve (I have an FCD installed) and 49: Air flow sensor - Left over from when I temporarily had a different MAF installed. Both should have been cleared, since I removed the Neg. batt. cable for over an hour after putting the stock MAF back in, and finished the FCD installed. Car runs fine once warmed up!

I noticed this O-ring was loose when I cleaned the IAC, but not having an extra lying/laying around I put it back where I 'think' it went. Does it go around the 1st step or the 2nd step above the base? In the pic below the 2 steps are visible (thanks JC/Legacy777):

UPDATE: I briefly (maybe 2 secs) got a CEL this am.....likely was there yesterday, too, but today I was looking for it. However, the RPMs did not surge like yesterday. I'll pull the codes tonite. There was also a clicking noise coming from the front dash - w/the defroster on and off. What relays sit under there? At the risk of being focused on the wrong thing, I think this is due to the super cold weather. We're to stay well before freezing, w/overnite temps below 0, for the next week!

This is a '90 Legacy w/a '93 EJ22T swapped in - 130K miles. Has had a high idle (1800+) til fully warm since the swap - I've check vacuum lines. Cleaned the IAC and got a little better. I swapped the front Coolant sensor out a week ago, which made no difference. This a.m. on a 0 degrees day (-20 wind chill) started it up and it idled high but started to surge 500+ RPM - to 2500 RPM for just a second then would return to the 1800 RPM...also, the cooling fans would cycle on/off @ the same time. After 5 mins it the surging ceased and after 10 mins the idle returned to normal - 700 ish RPM once it was warm. The heater was on HEAT only- neither the Heat/Def nor the Def were on. Any feedback is appreciated.

Sorry, but only the Sport Sedan (turbo) had the 3.90 VLSD in '91.....you should have a sticker on your rear diff (see my earlier post) w/info. Td

Low temps and high humidity/snow/etc? How about sticking brakes? Even though the parking brake released, did it or another one stick after stopping? Is it still doing it? Or did it eventually go away after driving it awhile? Yeah, Mr. Nipper said it 1st, (edit) the torque bind is usually felt in turns - the rear wheels act like their being dragged along, like driving a 4WD (not AWD) vehicle on dry pavement....and more of an AT tranny issue.

Check this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87708 Maybe it's worth a shot. Does yours make any unusual noise when accelerating? Mine did and had the delay...I tried a Lucas additive (didn't know about the above), but didn't help, so I swapped it out for another used one. Good luck. Good luck.

I can't tell you how hard it was since it's relative to your experience. For me, this was my 1st swap and 1st turbo experience. Only my 2nd engine pull. I replaced the tranny in the same car last summer w/the help of 2 much more experienced helpers. I did it all myself and also had another car to drive while I did it....took about 3 weeks, working after work and on weekends....this includes the time I spent cleaning up the engine while on a stand, putting in new plugs and timing belt kit, configuring the updated TD04 turbo and intercooler I added, etc. Here's a partial list of things you'll need: - turbo's cross member for the up-pipe (I re-used my NA's R&P - swapped w/out removing the R&P) - turbo's p/s hoses (my NA's rubbed on the turbo's downpipe & are still tight) - turbo's exhaust - turbo's sensors/harness - 3 -4 on the pass. strut tower + the wiring to the ECU - turbo's ECU - there are also a wiring swap w/the cam and crank sensors - modify your NA radiator hoses to work w/the turbo's reservoir tank - The turbo radiator is too tall - @ least on my '90. - Tranny? I installed a Turbo 4EAT last summer, so I was good to go. An NA 5-speed or AT should bolt up, but how long will it last? Since you have the whole car, it'll make it easier since everything you'll need is right @ hand. Check out the http://bbs.legacycentral.org site...lots of info - I couldn't have done it w/out it and Legacy777 - thanks JC! BUT I'd do it again! The power boost is great and it was overall a fun project (except when the TC came loose just as I was getting the engine in! ) Have Fun!

Going off what (little) technical knowledge I have, I thought since the rotational mass was less, it freed-up HP, even if minor?

Per Cars101.com: The 2000 -? OB has LSD and the 2000-2002+? Forester (X) S had LSD...these were pre-turbo.

Check out this site too: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ A little more info...the stock Legacy Turbo - EJ22T - put out 160HP/180ft-lbs torque @ 8.7psi - this is CRANK HP - not @ the wheels. That was on a closed-deck, performance-built block and internals. I just swapped one into my '90 Leg wagon, and w/12psi, I might be @ 190HP (based on 1psi=10HP that I keep reading about). The EJ22e in yours is an open-deck and not designed for lots of boost, since it's got a higher comp. ratio than the EJ22T. Going w/cams (Delta) can net you 160+HP (common w/the airplane crowd), but you'll need some eng. management (EM) to run it. A lightweight pulley 'may' net 5HP. An ignition upgrade, such as MSD, may add ???HP. Read/Search as there are more options out there....just some things to consider. Have Fun!

I don't believe in '98 the OB had an LSD. Subaru is a bit inconsistent w/their (V)LSD applications. Here's a reference for you: http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinycontent/rewrite/tc_28.html Also, did you check the back of the rear diff - this an older one, but should work as an example:

Didn't think about them for exhaust...but I'll call 'em up. Thanks

I have an Turbo down pipe and WRX cat-back I need 'customized' to fit my '90 Legacy EJ22T Wagon. It needs lengthened and re-bent. If you know of a shop, please let me know!

Yes..older post...but i was going to post this pic the day site went down! Same Code/Same reason (bent tranny pan-broken wire)/Same result Thanks for the info...it fixed my issue!

Wanted to add that these tire sizes work well w/the OB struts. I've tried them all - you may get some rubbing @ full steering lock : 205/70R-15 - Stock size for '96 - 99 Outback and '98-02 Forester, I believe. On the rear tires, there is very little clearance between the fender @ the front of the tire..... be advised if using 4-wheel tire chains, for example. 205/60R-16 - 16" wheels from newer Legacy/Baja/Forester/Impreza/WRX will work....but not SVX/Tribeca (18")/STI (17") '05+ as they are a 5x114 bolt pattern. 205/75R-14 - If you just want to fill up the wheel well, these work on the stock rims and are very close to the 205/70R-15. Have Fun!

On my '90 w/OB struts and 205-70R/15s @ 70 MPH the speedo was slow by 5 MPH according to the GPS...BUT i can't verify it was correct b4 the lift and wheel upgrade...so your mileage will vary . Just don't want anyone getting a ticket!

Wow, tough crowd!:-\ Hmmm, I read the can, read many posts here and elsewhere online (albeit most were about the intake; not the crankcase). Not sure what else I woulda/coulda/shoulda done....other than leave well enough alone. I'll get that oil changed, b4 I incur any more wrath. The good news is that the car has ran fine the last 2 days. Unfortunately the slight idle problem persists....but that'll hopefully be rectified w/a 'little' swap I have planned. Thanks again for the input. USMB Rocks!

Yes, I did read where it might be hard on seals, even though I put in less than 5 oz. of the stuff..might just change the oil No CELs...but this is OBDI, so it may not be as 'sensitive' as the OBDIIs? Thanks

Nope...did I miss something? I thought it was like an 'oil treatment'. The instructions HERE don't mention doing an oil change.....so I figured I'd wait 'til my next LOF.

All those items are about a year old. I've read more online and I'll just give it another few days to 'work thru the system'. (I hope!) Thanks

'90 Legacy. Due to some idle issues and 150K on the Odo, I decided to do a Seafoam treatment. I used the PVC inlet and put 1/3rd thru the intake, 1/3rd in the crankcase, and 1/3rd in the tank. There was 1/4 tank of gas left when I put in the Seafoam, but I filled it the next day. It ran rough even after the exhaust ran clean - acted like ony 2 - 3 cylinders were firing. Took it for a short drive and smoothed out - back to 'normal'. The next day started up and ran rough for the 1st 2 minutes, but then smoothed out again by the time I got to work (~5 min. commute). I changed all 4 plugs that night in case one got fouled. Next day ran fine but I went over a speed bump a little fast and the car ran rough for a few seconds, but smoothed out. This a.m. the car started to run rough again after a couple minutes of commuting....never did smooth out b4 I got to work. Any ideas?