wtdash

+1 My autozone axle lasted 3 months...and vibrated the whole time above 50mph. I installed a used Subie axle for $40 and have had no issues since. P.S. If you do go used, I believe multiple years and generations interchange on the AWD axles....Subies are great for that!

Did you try the one included w/your OBW? I used it on the '97 OB I used to have...in the back w/the jack tools..IIRC....should work on the EJ22, too?

Maybe I missed it: Did the Subaru (?) dealer change just the boot? They didn't fix the CV joint or replace the axle? Did it click b4 they 'fixed' it or only after? Is the clicking definitely coming from the side that they 'fixed'? I've had TB on 2 Subies - a '91 and '95, neither clicked, other than dragging their tires in turns, which isn't the same noise. I thought Subaru fixed this on the '97, but w/your miles it's possible. Yes, change the AT Fluid...if you can have it done 3+ times (during the same visit), I've read it gets a full fluid change and is the most effective....you might get lucky. Did the dealer do an alignment or balance your tires? Does it still vibrate @ 70mph? I had a CV axle replaced w/an aftermarket (b4 I saw how bad they are here) and it vibrated @ 70mph and clicked when new, swapped it out after 3 months. Good Luck.

Is that piston required or suggested when replacing the other parts? Thanks

Time for a new/different MAF?...got any junkyards nearby? Good luck.

You are in Subaru heaven being on the we(s)t side of WA state. And not too far from Portland, OR. Lots of people driving lots of Subarus...I think you're in about as good an environment as it gets for finding a swap-candidate. I watch the Seattle Craigslist from over here near Spokane, WA and get jealous of the selection!

Hopefully, Josh C./Legacy777 won't mind: "...Really all you need to do is add the wires for the pressure sensor, pressure exchange solenoid, and wastegate solenoid. Beyond that, I'd recommend keeping your existing intake manifold wiring harness as it matches the plugs behind the battery. The turbo harness will be different. The only thing you'll need to do is move the coolant temp sensor wires to the driver's side. It's not a big deal, just peal back the tape, move and re-tape....." I underlined the part that may be up for interpretation. I'm not sure that means the connector is different or just a few wires....I'm going w/the latter as Josh is very knowledgeable and would have pointed it out. But I have read that it's a pretty easy swap...that's the main reason I'm attempting it! Edit: Per Josh: "The turbo ECU has the same plugs as the non-turbo ecu. So it's just a matter of adding the pins." There are also some pinout differences between the Turbo and NA: http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/ecupins/.

Hi, Based on what I read your best option sounds like what I'm about to do - Swap an EJ22T out of a '92 Legacy SS w/a bad AT tranny into my '90 Legacy. From everything I've read (a lot!) this is one of the easier swaps. The EJ22T is equal to, if not better than, the EJ20 in durability and since it's made for the US its wiring is very similar. I've been told there are only about 3-4 wires I'll need to run for the turbo sensors. It's also non-interference, I believe. As far as power, the stock EJ22T makes 165HP, as stated, but it's well known that these motors will make 200 easy and 300 w/the right mods and re$ources. I intend to add an intercooler and manual boost control, which should put me in the 200+HP range for less than $100. I spent about $500 on the '92 SS, which was a complete car, so I could ensure I got all the wiring/sensors/computers/etc. Good Luck!

Maybe I missed it, but why swap out a good, known engine? If the HG goes it'll likely give warning signs, and you'll have time to find an engine. I've read on here (I think) that the torque of the 2.2 and the 2.5 are comparable. So towing shouldn't be an issue. If you drive up into the mountains a lot, then the 2.5 may be better. Check out cars101.com....I believe the 2.5 was 155hp in '96; 165hp '97-'05?; and 170hp currently. Good luck.

The adjustment might be covered on here somewhere and I'm sure there's a 'procedure'... but I did it 'by feel'. Sorry, don't know. I've read pros/cons using the FWD mode, but mostly it's frowned upon. And wouldn't see how that would affect the transmission's shifting. Not sure we're on the same page re: the differentials: The front diff is built-in to the tranny (axles attach to the tranny) and would be geared for a 4.11 on the '91, which means the rear diff must also be 4.11. The '94 is 3.9 front and rear. So, you can't mix a '94 Tranny/front diff w/a '91 rear diff.

Oakland must have a pull-a-part? Get a MAF for cheap and if it doesn't work take it back. Good luck.

No offense to your mechanical aptitude, but are you sure the shift lever is adjusted correctly? I had to re-adjust mine when I replaced it. It sounds like it's slipping out of gear...not actually the tranny slipping. And your rear diff was swapped too, correct? The '91 is a 4.11; the '94 is 3.90. Good luck.

Temp sensor?

If your alignment is 'known good' now, mark the location of the FRONT Upper bolt (it's oval shaped) on the strut mount before touching it and put it back exactly, your alignment should be fine...Mine was when I put OB struts on my older Legacy....took it in just to check and they told me it was 'in spec'. Have fun w/it!

No CEL...but need to check/pull codes....Cleaning the IAC was on my 'to do' list.....maybe just sooner than later. Thanks Gary

Hello, '90 Legacy AWD Automatic N/A 2.2 - 151K When engine is warm and I restart, the RPM bounces between 500 and 1000 for about 15 seconds, and then settles down. Recently started getting slight stumble/hesitation when engine's cold and I accelerate. Runs great otherwise and MPG is 22/28. Recent new plugs, Subie (!) wires, and O2 sensor....and the bouncing RPM did it b4 any of this was changed, too. ...I'm thinking IAC or temp sensor?? Thanks

Can't comment on replacing clutch plates...didn't get that far into it. My tool collection is incomplete, but was adequate for this job...I don't have any air tools. I got the solenoid seals and the big seal between the transmission and transfer case...no header gaskets. I dropped the entire exhaust...the cat bolts were heat-welded, and didn't want to fight 'em.

That IS impressive!

Just replaced the Duty C solenoid AND redid the transfer clutches on my '90 Legacy - fixed the binding and a 1-2 second delay before the AWD kicked in. Buy a NEW solenoid for <$100 - http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ Item: PT040396 VLV AY TRF Price: $85.14 Repairing the transfer clutches is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55651&highlight=bad+gear+good+torque+bind and here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467 Replacement does NOT require removing the trans from the car. Removing/installing info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81591&highlight=transfer+clutch I'd get the transfer clutch out of JY, do the repair, and then do the swap. I did this (and I'm NOT a mechanic) in about 4 hours by myself. My car has very little rust underneath, so if your car came from the NE, expect some grief getting things loose. Good luck.

What did the mechanic do? Some on here have reported flushing the transmission fixed it. But Yes, replacing the rear transfer clutch assembly (removable rear section of the transmission) is likely needed. It is HIGHLY recommended that the Duty C solenoid, aka transfer case solenoid also be replaced when they are in there. Another option is if you or a mechanically inclined friend want to do this, there is a GREAT thread/post on doing this. I'm no mechanic, and I did this myself. Otherwise, it's in the $1000 range @ the dealer. Here's a link on another subie site: http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Good luck!

Yet another post confirming the need to stick w/OEM wires. Why Subes are so picky, I do not know. Congrats on getting it fixed!

Is that a typo?....Mine says Full Time AWD. I doubt that the FWD cars got a sticker. Yes, all 4 wheels on the ground is OK w/the 5 spd...no towing an Automatic w/ANY wheels on the ground. Good luck!

Sounds like the the 'rack and pinion' weren't lined up when either it was made, or less likely installed as it should be 'set' from the factory. If you 100% trust the mech, then he should be your 'expert' source in getting it replaced by the factory. If he's just the closest wrench around, then get a 2nd opinion....go to the 'st(d)ealer' if you must. I'd think you'd notice a much tighter turning radius one way vs. the other, too. Compare it to the old one (or did it go back as a 'core'??)...kinda hard if it's installed...but may shed some light? Good luck.

1990 Legacy L Wagon, 4EAT, Lifted, running 205/70R-15 studded snows, w/a '91 (?) turbo tranny and 3.9 rear LSD. 22.5 MPG* City 20%/Highway80% - 65-70MPH Highway Running 205/60R-16: 25.5 MPG* City 20%/Highway80% - 65-70MPH Highway * This is the 'corrected' amount by using the http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

'03 2.5 (per your 1st post) is PN: 11810AA040 11810AA040 Outback 2002-2008 Engine PCV PCV VALE FOR ALL 2002-2008 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5 (NON H6) (NON TURBO) '03 3.0-Here's a pic of the P/N: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3166&d=1097973143 Here's pic of the comparison: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3123&d=1096256188