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I'd do a Search here for more info ...Here's my spiel: I did this to my '90 Legacy. All you need are the struts - the complete unit - I got mine from a JY for $150 for all 4. The only issue is on the rear end where the top-hat bolt holes on the '95 may be different than the '96+ OBs (the '95 OB wasn't lifted). But I'd bet they're a direct swap. On my '90 I just drilled a hole to match the top hat and I've had no issues in the last year/10K+ miles. Other people have played around w/different springs and such, but I didn't want to deal w/spring compressors and top hats. I run 205/60R-16 tires on WRX wheels, and I use 205/70R-15 (stock OB tires up 'til about 2000?) for my winter tires. They both rub slightly @ full lock, but otherwise cause no issues and wear evenly. Remember to mark the top strut bolt on the front struts b4 removal - it's oval to adjust the alignment - put it back where you found it and you won't need an alignment (unless it's already out)- I didn't. My speedo is off between 5-8% so I just keep that in mind @ 70mph....in town it's not an issue. Here's a great tool for calculating: http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp Lastly, there are a few links on here about using Forester struts, too, and I know another member put '04 Forester struts on his '95 Legacy....but can't find the link. Have Fun:)

Thanks to ALL for your feedback. It's appreciated! Live and Learn...or just read more USMB posts! I've decided to fix the HG in lieu of trying to make the non-egr 2.2 work. Since I'm reselling this car, and if the buyer is from (nearby) WA they'll need to pass inspection - perhaps including a visual -I don't want to 'fubar' this. CCR in CO (I called them about an intake they sell) told me about Jeremy; a Subie mechanic known as 'SubaruGuru'. He works out of Colville, WA 509-684-3384. He's going to repair the HG for $500 - parts/labor/head machining. I already pulled the engine. He told me he worked @ a Subie dealership for 14 years and has done 'hundreds of head gasktes' and lots of 2.2 swaps, so I'm confident that'll I get a good repair. He said the latest/greatest HG takes care of the issue?? Thanks again!

Can I just replace the intake manifold with one w/an EGR? Or do I need a complete engine w/the EGR?

Hello, I've searched (probably not enough), but only found info on going from egr or non-egr to non-egr. I'm (hopefully) swapping a '95 EJ22 from a manual into a '98 Outback w/an AT (yes, another bad HG). Will I get a CEL because the EJ22 doesn't have an EGR port for the one on the OB? Is there a work-around for this? I plan on reselling the car, and don't want issues w/codes. Thanks

Do the newer 2.2's have the access hole on the top - back, under the intake? If so, that's where I've done mine on a '90 and '93 Legacy. I moved/removed a few hoses/wires and the intake stuff to get @ it. I'm looking to do the swap - 2.2>>>'98 OB (yes, another blown HG) - in the next couple weeks, too. Good luck. Td

I believe this means it is closer to a 50/50 split front and rear. No extra reduction, as there is no 'dual-range' (low and high) 4WD option - unless you have one in your country - you'd know this as you'd have an extra lever. Like this: 4 speed automatics in most cars I've driven have an extra 1/2 a gear before the overdrive....If I have a slight hill, my 4EAT will down shift slightly and the RPMs will rise a few hundred. If it gets steeper, it'll then shift to 3rd and RPMs will rise a thousand or more. If I step on the accelerator enough, it'll skip the 1/2 gear and go straight from overdrive to 3rd. Does that sound accurate?

Okay this is bad news! I just started this swap! Do I dare use the stock one, or get out the sledge and make room?

I just read over on LegacyCentral.org that the ECU/computer needs to match your transmission.....just an idea. Good Luck.

+1 My autozone axle lasted 3 months...and vibrated the whole time above 50mph. I installed a used Subie axle for $40 and have had no issues since. P.S. If you do go used, I believe multiple years and generations interchange on the AWD axles....Subies are great for that!

Did you try the one included w/your OBW? I used it on the '97 OB I used to have...in the back w/the jack tools..IIRC....should work on the EJ22, too?

Maybe I missed it: Did the Subaru (?) dealer change just the boot? They didn't fix the CV joint or replace the axle? Did it click b4 they 'fixed' it or only after? Is the clicking definitely coming from the side that they 'fixed'? I've had TB on 2 Subies - a '91 and '95, neither clicked, other than dragging their tires in turns, which isn't the same noise. I thought Subaru fixed this on the '97, but w/your miles it's possible. Yes, change the AT Fluid...if you can have it done 3+ times (during the same visit), I've read it gets a full fluid change and is the most effective....you might get lucky. Did the dealer do an alignment or balance your tires? Does it still vibrate @ 70mph? I had a CV axle replaced w/an aftermarket (b4 I saw how bad they are here) and it vibrated @ 70mph and clicked when new, swapped it out after 3 months. Good Luck.

Is that piston required or suggested when replacing the other parts? Thanks

Time for a new/different MAF?...got any junkyards nearby? Good luck.

You are in Subaru heaven being on the we(s)t side of WA state. And not too far from Portland, OR. Lots of people driving lots of Subarus...I think you're in about as good an environment as it gets for finding a swap-candidate. I watch the Seattle Craigslist from over here near Spokane, WA and get jealous of the selection!

Hopefully, Josh C./Legacy777 won't mind: "...Really all you need to do is add the wires for the pressure sensor, pressure exchange solenoid, and wastegate solenoid. Beyond that, I'd recommend keeping your existing intake manifold wiring harness as it matches the plugs behind the battery. The turbo harness will be different. The only thing you'll need to do is move the coolant temp sensor wires to the driver's side. It's not a big deal, just peal back the tape, move and re-tape....." I underlined the part that may be up for interpretation. I'm not sure that means the connector is different or just a few wires....I'm going w/the latter as Josh is very knowledgeable and would have pointed it out. But I have read that it's a pretty easy swap...that's the main reason I'm attempting it! Edit: Per Josh: "The turbo ECU has the same plugs as the non-turbo ecu. So it's just a matter of adding the pins." There are also some pinout differences between the Turbo and NA: http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/ecupins/.

Hi, Based on what I read your best option sounds like what I'm about to do - Swap an EJ22T out of a '92 Legacy SS w/a bad AT tranny into my '90 Legacy. From everything I've read (a lot!) this is one of the easier swaps. The EJ22T is equal to, if not better than, the EJ20 in durability and since it's made for the US its wiring is very similar. I've been told there are only about 3-4 wires I'll need to run for the turbo sensors. It's also non-interference, I believe. As far as power, the stock EJ22T makes 165HP, as stated, but it's well known that these motors will make 200 easy and 300 w/the right mods and re$ources. I intend to add an intercooler and manual boost control, which should put me in the 200+HP range for less than $100. I spent about $500 on the '92 SS, which was a complete car, so I could ensure I got all the wiring/sensors/computers/etc. Good Luck!

Maybe I missed it, but why swap out a good, known engine? If the HG goes it'll likely give warning signs, and you'll have time to find an engine. I've read on here (I think) that the torque of the 2.2 and the 2.5 are comparable. So towing shouldn't be an issue. If you drive up into the mountains a lot, then the 2.5 may be better. Check out cars101.com....I believe the 2.5 was 155hp in '96; 165hp '97-'05?; and 170hp currently. Good luck.

The adjustment might be covered on here somewhere and I'm sure there's a 'procedure'... but I did it 'by feel'. Sorry, don't know. I've read pros/cons using the FWD mode, but mostly it's frowned upon. And wouldn't see how that would affect the transmission's shifting. Not sure we're on the same page re: the differentials: The front diff is built-in to the tranny (axles attach to the tranny) and would be geared for a 4.11 on the '91, which means the rear diff must also be 4.11. The '94 is 3.9 front and rear. So, you can't mix a '94 Tranny/front diff w/a '91 rear diff.

Oakland must have a pull-a-part? Get a MAF for cheap and if it doesn't work take it back. Good luck.

No offense to your mechanical aptitude, but are you sure the shift lever is adjusted correctly? I had to re-adjust mine when I replaced it. It sounds like it's slipping out of gear...not actually the tranny slipping. And your rear diff was swapped too, correct? The '91 is a 4.11; the '94 is 3.90. Good luck.

Temp sensor?

If your alignment is 'known good' now, mark the location of the FRONT Upper bolt (it's oval shaped) on the strut mount before touching it and put it back exactly, your alignment should be fine...Mine was when I put OB struts on my older Legacy....took it in just to check and they told me it was 'in spec'. Have fun w/it!

No CEL...but need to check/pull codes....Cleaning the IAC was on my 'to do' list.....maybe just sooner than later. Thanks Gary

Hello, '90 Legacy AWD Automatic N/A 2.2 - 151K When engine is warm and I restart, the RPM bounces between 500 and 1000 for about 15 seconds, and then settles down. Recently started getting slight stumble/hesitation when engine's cold and I accelerate. Runs great otherwise and MPG is 22/28. Recent new plugs, Subie (!) wires, and O2 sensor....and the bouncing RPM did it b4 any of this was changed, too. ...I'm thinking IAC or temp sensor?? Thanks

Can't comment on replacing clutch plates...didn't get that far into it. My tool collection is incomplete, but was adequate for this job...I don't have any air tools. I got the solenoid seals and the big seal between the transmission and transfer case...no header gaskets. I dropped the entire exhaust...the cat bolts were heat-welded, and didn't want to fight 'em.