wtdash

That IS impressive!

Just replaced the Duty C solenoid AND redid the transfer clutches on my '90 Legacy - fixed the binding and a 1-2 second delay before the AWD kicked in. Buy a NEW solenoid for <$100 - http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ Item: PT040396 VLV AY TRF Price: $85.14 Repairing the transfer clutches is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55651&highlight=bad+gear+good+torque+bind and here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467 Replacement does NOT require removing the trans from the car. Removing/installing info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81591&highlight=transfer+clutch I'd get the transfer clutch out of JY, do the repair, and then do the swap. I did this (and I'm NOT a mechanic) in about 4 hours by myself. My car has very little rust underneath, so if your car came from the NE, expect some grief getting things loose. Good luck.

What did the mechanic do? Some on here have reported flushing the transmission fixed it. But Yes, replacing the rear transfer clutch assembly (removable rear section of the transmission) is likely needed. It is HIGHLY recommended that the Duty C solenoid, aka transfer case solenoid also be replaced when they are in there. Another option is if you or a mechanically inclined friend want to do this, there is a GREAT thread/post on doing this. I'm no mechanic, and I did this myself. Otherwise, it's in the $1000 range @ the dealer. Here's a link on another subie site: http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Good luck!

Yet another post confirming the need to stick w/OEM wires. Why Subes are so picky, I do not know. Congrats on getting it fixed!

Is that a typo?....Mine says Full Time AWD. I doubt that the FWD cars got a sticker. Yes, all 4 wheels on the ground is OK w/the 5 spd...no towing an Automatic w/ANY wheels on the ground. Good luck!

Sounds like the the 'rack and pinion' weren't lined up when either it was made, or less likely installed as it should be 'set' from the factory. If you 100% trust the mech, then he should be your 'expert' source in getting it replaced by the factory. If he's just the closest wrench around, then get a 2nd opinion....go to the 'st(d)ealer' if you must. I'd think you'd notice a much tighter turning radius one way vs. the other, too. Compare it to the old one (or did it go back as a 'core'??)...kinda hard if it's installed...but may shed some light? Good luck.

1990 Legacy L Wagon, 4EAT, Lifted, running 205/70R-15 studded snows, w/a '91 (?) turbo tranny and 3.9 rear LSD. 22.5 MPG* City 20%/Highway80% - 65-70MPH Highway Running 205/60R-16: 25.5 MPG* City 20%/Highway80% - 65-70MPH Highway * This is the 'corrected' amount by using the http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

'03 2.5 (per your 1st post) is PN: 11810AA040 11810AA040 Outback 2002-2008 Engine PCV PCV VALE FOR ALL 2002-2008 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5 (NON H6) (NON TURBO) '03 3.0-Here's a pic of the P/N: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3166&d=1097973143 Here's pic of the comparison: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3123&d=1096256188

UPDATE: Thanks to USMB members (again ), I determined this was the clutches in the rear transfer case. As a interim fix -and because it sounded cool :cool: - I installed the 4WD diff lock switch this fall and it made the 4WD work great, esp. since we've had near record snowfall this winter. Here's a link to the switch: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50264 Since I still had my old tranny, I used its parts to fix the one I installed last summer. I took my old tranny apart and its output hub had the grooves that this and other posts showed: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&page=6 I filed down the grooves. I bought a new Duty C and gaskets and installed in the housing of my old tranny. Finally had an above freezing day (unheated garage) and tore it all apart....here's another post w/instructions: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81591&highlight=transfer+clutch This was not as tough a job as I feared, BUT many of these items were removed last summer when I swapped trannies, so the nuts/bolts were easy to remove. This car also has very little rust, which makes it much easier. Took about 4 hours, since I'd already 'prepped' the rear housing and Duty C, and just swapped parts. The output hub had grooves worse than the original, so I thought I was on the right path. The result? So far, so good. I found some snow and when I punched it had instant traction @ both ends. NO DELAY!! Before, I had a 1-2 second delay before the rear-end would kick in, which was a real drag (pun intended ). Suggestion to anyone swapping in a used tranny, or even a rebuilt one, is to check the rear transfer clutches/hub and replace the Duty C....sure wish I had read up on it before I'd swapped mine!....Live and learn! Thanks again USMB!

Condition Value Excellent $5,855 Good $5,330 Fair $4,650 This if for Private Party in Portland, OR (no offense to Bigbusa). If the car is good to go for another 60K (except gas and oil changes), which it appears it is, then $6K is on the high end.....but what's it worth to you to have all the maintenance done? One thing I continue to see is that West Coast cars are more than East Coast. Don't know if it's the lack of rust or just higher demand for Subies out here. Is 115K on the original clutch low (I drive an AT)? If so, was it driven hard or just a lot of stop-n-go city driving? Sounds like a good deal, if you can get it for $5500 or less.

I (and a lot of help from friends) replaced my tranny and a left front axle this summer on my '90 Leg. Due to finding out on Sunday afternoon that the front left boot was torn, and that only (N)Autozone had mine available I bought one. As it was my 1st big time mechanical repair, I was borrowing a friend's garage and tools, and I needed it for work the next day, I 'fixed' it then and there. Less than 6,000 miles later it was creaking/groaning when accelerating (but not clicking :-\ ), vibrating thru the steering wheel, and felt like my tires were out of balance on the freeway! Thanks to this site I was able to swap it out w/another one in about 30 minutes (amazingly simple). I'll return the bad one for credit if possible, but if I have to take another one, it's going to Ebait. It now makes no weird noises and rides almost smooth on the highway (I'm still on studded snows that may be due for a balance). One thing I'm unsure of is whether running Outback struts may have caused more stress due the angle, leading to premature failure??....but I had the right/passenger side replaced (b4 I realized how easy it is!) about a year ago and it's still going strong. Anyway, Thanks USMB members!

Will that 2.5 have the upgraded HGs? Might as well do the TBelt, too. When ready post the TW here as well: legacycentral.org They like their turbos! Good luck w/the 2.5.

Going w/bad strut..based on the tire wear. Over a 100K on the Forester? Probably due. And yes, one could go south while the other is fine. Also, Foresters are know for rear wheel bearings going out, too. Good luck.

I'm not going to pretend to know more than 3 mechanics who said it's rod-knock, but I had a mechanic tell me the same thing, and after I sold an OB (for a loss) I'm pretty sure it was actually 'piston-slap'...after reading about it on USMB. Is it loud @ start-up but goes away after it's warmed up? That's what piston-slap does and it's not a big deal...other than disconcerting as heck. The CRV and RAV4s are pretty good @ holding their value...If you can find one. In Co. Springs, I'd say you're in 'prime Subie/4WD' land, which explains the inflated values...the good news is that if the OB is clean (not rusted) and reasonable miles you may get your money back. $2500 for a clean OB may be just the ticket for someone there who is willing to do the swap. Plus, CCR isn't too far away (Denver) and they can put in a 2.2 for $3750 (last I read). If you haven't put any $$ into it and are not able to swap in a 2.2, then I suggest selling it and getting the <96 Legacy. Sounds like it will fit your budget and should be as reliable as anything else for the money. Sorry you got a bum deal - been there done that, too.

The link 'johnc' supplied is a good one. From my experience, my speed wasn't off by much, if @ all.......using my buddy's GPS, the MPH shown on the GPS matched my speedometer. 'Though I don't know how accurate GPS' are 'sposed to be. If the GPS was correct it's a letdown, as I thought I was getting better MPG since my bigger tires should be off by about 8%. But as my car is a '90 Legacy, it could use a different VSS.

For what it's worth...I plugged an 02 WRX 6-CD/Cassette into my (old) '97 Outback - totally plug and play. Only neg was I lost the clock..and I could live w/that. I'm leaning toward a bad replacement....'though 2 bad is hard to believe, but no - power/lights/etc....makes me wonder if you've got a bad ground or such? Good luck.

The snow is getting deep here in N. Idaho....and the berms of plowed snow are getting tall. So I parked my '90 Wagon w/its '91 auto and rear 3.9 VLSD into the side of one, and 'stuck' it there..... (BTW, I have the 4WD Diff Lock Mod installed and it was in use.) ....I wanted to see if 3 wheels were spinning. But I only had one @ the front and one in the rear. I'm confused because I expected to see both rears turning. The back end kicks out if I punch it in slippery conditions....isn't that a 'sign' of an LSD? And I don't recall that happening on my other Legacy AWDs??? Even had a little excitement on snow/ice covered Snoqualmie Pass when it downshifted to 2nd to pass a few cars and the rear end went sideways @ 40. My passenger wasn't quite so enthused, though. I got the VLSD used w/unknown mileage. Do they wear out? And if so, are they serviceable? If I jack up the rear end and both wheels spin in the same direction a valid test for a VLSD? It does have the 'sticker' labeling it as a 3.9 VLSD, too. Thanks as always!

If you do put the 205/55R16s on after the lift, you won't fill up the wheel wells....if it matters. I lifted my '90 Legacy and just bought some WRX rims w/a set of 205/55R16s. I'm going to sell the tires and get 1-2 or sizes bigger, as I personally don't like the look of all the extra space. But the shorter tire will help w/acceleration. My 205/70R15 studded snows fit tight, and do lightly rub @ full steering lock - something I can live with. Regarding power...CAI are questionable and may screw up your MAF, from what I read, and don't use the oil-covered filters as they deposit a film on the MAF and cause issues. Lightweight (but not underdriven = smaller) pulleys may help.

Hi...I'm in Coeur d'Alene.....I have a '90 Legacy L wagon I lifted w/OB struts and tires. The '98-2000 Forester is another great Sube, but w/the Phase I('98), II('99-00) EJ25 it loses some points. The Forester XT w/a turbo didn't arrive 'til '04, I believe. If you plan to ADD a turbo to the EJ25 you'll have a bunch of work ahead. If your fellow Forester owners have experience modding the engine that will help a lot. As far as MPG, the OBW and Forester should be very similar: Forester EPA economy: Manual - 21 city / 28 highway Automatic - 22 city / 27 highway Automatic Which isn't too far from your Legacy L....and I think it's more based on how you drive it and keep it maintained and tuned up. If a lift is more important than power then putting OB or Forester struts on your '96 is an easy option (everything I've read says they'll both fit your Legacy - up to '99 from an OB and up to '04 from a Forester). Used struts should run about $250 shipped (I used car-part.com-Spaldings wanted $75 each), and a set of 15'' 205/70R-15 (stock OB and Forester tire size) should be avl. on Craigslist....if you're not in a hurry. Have Fun!

I had a similar issue on a '00 Forester. IIRC I found this on the Web a few years back: I used warm water that I lightly sprayed in w/a misting bottle (not a direct shot/stream of water), wiped it clean and then I used a vaccum w/the crevice attachment to suck out any water. Worked well. I would ensure that all power is off, and time it so the car can sit for a few hours/overnight to dry out completely....maybe even point a fan @ the controls to help it dry off. Good luck.

Probably telling you what you know....but the '96 w/the Automatic has 155HP vs. the 165HP of the '97+ EJ25s, and the 2.5 required Premium. Also, if it is an auto that's a lot of miles on the original 4EAT..I'd plan on a replacement/rebuild b4 too long. Good luck.

2.2 has less HP/Torque, even on the newer Phase II. From cars101.com: 1998 GT:Engine: 2.5 liter DOHC fuel injected 4 cylinder 16 Valve boxer engine, 165 horsepower, 162 Ft lbs torque @4000rpm 1998 Legacy: Engine: 2.2-L, 135 horsepower, 4 cylinder boxer engine, 16 valve single overhead cam, multiport fuel injected (140 ft lbs torque), electronic distributorless ignition 1999 Legacy: Engine: Phase II 2.2L 4 cylinder boxer engine Horsepower: 142 hp at 5600 rpm, 149 ft. lbs torque at 3600 rpm _____________________________________________________________ I would also 'burp' the cooling system as previously mentioned...but the 'floaters' in the overflow are a bad sign. If it is the HG and as you only have 102K miles on your 2.5....I'd fix it as the 2.5 'should' be good for another 100K+...should be around $1500 for the repair-more @ a dealer. But the CCR engine DOES come w/a warranty. Good luck.

Does your LL Bean have VDC? if not then maybe it's a Subaru handling trait. From this month's issue of a 'leading consumer mag' on their road test of the new Legacy 2.5i: "If a driver enters a corner too quickly and lifts off the throttle, the Legacy's tail can slide out and could cause the car to spin. Stability control should correct this problem, but it is not available on the trim level of our base 2.5i. ........It loses major points for handling that gets tricky in emergency maneuvers. " It's a newer gen then yours, so I don't claim to know if the suspensions are the same. And this is a pet peeve of mine w/Subaru...as not everyone is a skilled driver: "Electronic stability control helps, but is only an option on higher-end versions and is not available on our base test car. " Td

The $600 difference is worth it for the warranty alone, IMHO. I've read on here and elsewhere that the 2.5 may have other issues once the miles add up...ask Mr. Nipper. I agree that the extra HP of the 2.5 is required @ 8,000 feet. I've read that the main complaint of Subie owners in the Rocky Mtn states was about a lack of power due to the altitude. And since yours is a 5-speed, you don't have to worry about the extra cost of fixing the 4EAT.

I don't read 'palms' or have a 'crystal ball', but I also see you having another Subie in the family when you get to Maine. And yes, by all means, drive it more!