wtdash

It may be completely different going WEST>EAST, but East>West it's $1500+. I can buy cheap(er) Subies from the Far East (say, NJ), but shipping usually breaks the deal.

If you can find a 5-speed FXT, you'll need to 'bring $' as they're becoming as sought after as, well, a clean, unmolested WRX :-) And you really don't want to do a swap, do you? Really? :-) Just not worth it, unless you're really bored, unemployed, have too much $$, etc. It's a full harness swap, not just engine/trans....wiring isn't usually a fun thing. Note to self: Just Stop looking @ those OBXT's for cheap on CL.....

As noted your Phase 1 and 2 Intake Manifolds and sensors are not compatible across phases. Wiring may not be that tough, but it can be a nightmare. Esp. if you don't have an FSM w/the wiring diagrams, etc. There are posts online of peeps that have got this work, but it's never been that clear whether the car actually runs 100%. I'd consider putting the EJ22e ('97) shortblock under the EJ222 ('99) heads, too. They should bolt on as all the EJ are usually compatible, but I've never done this type of swap. And you''d have to research which Head Gasket to use to ensure the coolant/oil ports match. Read This if bored.

See this: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/transmission-code-79.44361/ Did you by chance lift the trans when messing w/the engine? I did that (only once) and it bent the pan and damaged internal wiring .

What year is the JDM engine? Check this for part numbers for ~'99 - '03: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b12/type_3/engine/valve_mechanism/illustration_1/ Or start here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ Choose the EUROPE section as we never had a NON-turbo 2.0 until the ~'11(?) FB20 engine, and I'm guessing you're dealing w/an EJ as the FB had timing chains.

Buy the newest you can afford, but leave room for a repair. My faith in Subarus has waned over the past few years, so i'm a bit of a 'devils advocate'.....do your research, make sure to get a PPI/Buyer's Inspection, Autocheck/Carfax (see attached for cheap links I've used), and one-owner w/maintenance records is worth a premium, too. I've recently 'converted' to a believer in extended warranties due to the complexity of newer vehicles, but prefer the Manufacturer version vs. the 3rd-party, potentially 'fly-by-night', versions. If you're buying a 'CPO' from a a dealer they should be available. You can potentially get (buy) peace of mind to 100K. 200K? Maybe.

Hi, Is this your trans ID ??- usually on the bellhousing / back of engine: TR580KHDBA Or posted on the door jam or (used to be) by the driver's strut tower under the hood. Found it on ebay, and search online only shows 2013 interchange on a Subaru parts website: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2013_Outback-Limited/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-ASSEMBLY-TR580KHDBA/49239603/31000AJ140.html Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT Base 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT Limited 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT Limited w/EyeSight 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT Plus 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT Premium 2013 Subaru Outback 2.5L CVT Premium w/EyeSight 2013 Doesn't mean it won't work from something older/newer, but you'd want to dig a little deeper. I'd be more cautious about something this (relatively) new and its interchange options. Used seem to be going for $2500. check out car-part.com for other used as well. Saw some there w/less than 100K on your side of the US.

^Just to clarify for others....this is the WHEEL size. Not the rotor size. Per Cars101.com: L, LS, LSi: 10.2" vented front disc, 10.5 rear disc = Tire, Wheel: AWD- all season P185/70HR14, 5.5jj; FWD- all season P175/70HR14 5jj; Single-piston CaliperSport sedan / Touring Wagon (turbo): 10.9" vented front disc, 10.5 vented rear disc = 15" wheel; 195/60R15 ; Dual/Twin-piston Caliper

Hi, Please start your own thread so not to Hijack....since your ? isn't related to this. To answer: The '99 5MT should be fine, but note you'll need to change the Rear Dif to match the trans (should be 4.11). '01 is PHASE 2 and not compatible w/Phase 1 (pre-'99) stuff. It'll bolt up, but the electronics are different and your TCM/TCU can't control it...and nope...can't just swap the TCU either. :-( p.s. the 5MT doesn't care (as much) about Phase 1 vs. Phase 2, but you may still need to change the speedo cable connection, Neutral safety switch and Reverse switch to match the '96 system.

If the JDM engine was 'bad' from the get-go, you may not be able to fix it - easily. They do occasionally have damaged JDM's get thru. A Compression test would help confirm. Might want to pull a plug wire - one at a time - to see if the engine runs worse or same. IF it doesn't change then that cylinder is 'DOA'. But I'd think you'd get a Misfire code on that cylinder if it was bad???? Hopefully one of the Mech/Tech guys will post up.....no offense to 1LuckyT.

You can pop a fuse in the FWD socket by the front passenger strut tower. This will show you the difference, too....It's not recommended to drive around in FWD mode for miles and miles (although some do) and it doesn't help w/MPG either.

Per this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine The EJ203 is Phase 2 / II engine. You'd need a Phase 1 / I engine. So, your IM won't fit regardless. Easiest swap is the '95-98 USDM EJ22e. It's been covered on here a lot. There is a Phase 1 JDM EJ20D DOHC (NOT the EJ20G/K/R turbo versions), listed in that link too, which should work w/your IM, but not sure those were ever imported to the US for swaps. Not sure I've ever seen one.

There is the AVO kit, which is specific for the NA/Non-turbo Subaru and is your best OTC (over the counter) fix for an addiction to speed. Go read up on RS25.com, as that'll be your new home for turbo info....also look on NASIOC.com. READ before posting on either of those as your questions will be answered....by reading what others have already done. And, no oil cooler on the '99 2.2. On Subarus it's usually (always?) part of the oil filter housing.

HI, New: IMpreza (incl. WRX) from 2002-2007 will fit the '95+ Legacy, and there are 'quick struts' on Amazon (and likely Ebait)....can't comment on quality. You may need to get 'saggy butt spacers' due to front to back height differences. Used: Subaru struts usually last a while. You can find the lowest mile used set @ your local yard or online (watch out for shipping costs) from a '95- '99 Legacy or Outback. The OB will lift it about 2+" but there in CO you might like the added ground clearance for thost West Slope (?) snow storms. :-)

Some 'body' driving their Subie wagon in a less than responsible way? HERE

You've got a code stored in the TCM / TCU / AT computer. You'll need to search on here about how to read the TCM - AT computer - codes. May be under "secret handshake" . Yes, seriously. On the pre-'99 models it was a series of steps that would then cause the AT temp light to flash the stored code. Repeat - the flashing tells you there's a code(s) stored but not what the issue is. We can't help until you get the actual code. Or you find what needs reconnected??

NGK on the plugs/wires? Not sure if the '04 were as picky as the earlier models...but why tempt the fates. 2000-2004 Outback had NO MAF, so you're not blind. :-) It's an EJ251 vs EJ253 thing (kinda) Only the turbocharged models had a MAF in '04 - STI, WRX, FXT, Baja turbo...IIRC.

For future reference and others...you can put some tape (or similar) on the bolt head to get it to stick / wedge into the socket to hold it. Then use an extension to reach down and reinstall the bolt. Once it's snug the socket should release. Just be extra careful not to cross-thread it! There's probably an even better way that Mech's know. :-)

The '99 had an issues w/the gauges / dash cluster. Search on the fix, which I believe involves soldering. Also, the 5-speed may still use the same speedo sensor as older models that may wear out / break. It's on the passenger side near the gear oil dipstick. Looks like this and that tab on the end breaks off:

Hi, Most of the JDM stuff 'seems' to need to use the USDM's crank/Cam sprockets(gears). Maybe Japan Direct knows, too. And does your '03 have EGR? If so, you'll need to either drill and tap the head on the EJ20 or try a workaround. Likely other stuff...but I've not done this swap, but it's been done a LOT so search online, too. Remember - that same engine was used on the Impreza, Outback and Forester so any of those Subaru forums would be relevant.

Edit: What's your skill set and what's wrong w/the '05? If the heads are good on the '05 it should work on the '03 block. I'd do the HG on any used Subaru engine I bought regardless.

I've read that the cheaper versions are OK, too. Just need a long extension and 12mm(?) socket. Note its orientation when removing to install same. And if there's been any work done on the car around the KS area, it could be unplugged or damaged wiring....and be careful with those wires as they are 20+ years old and getting brittle. p.s. ...the '95 and older were known to crack, but was supposedly fixed on newer models.....so a used one will work too. A KS from a 2.5/EJ25D should work too.

Those LGT seats may sit really low since you'd sit extra high w/the reverse (Impreza>Legacy), but the LGT should have a height adjustment - on the Driver's seat. And for the generations of Subaru you're working on I've yet to see one that had bolted on rails...welded, I believe. But swapping seat belts isn't a big deal.....usually.

And if your OBS has the Automatic, then your 2.2 has EGR. The '94 won't. Here's an easy workaround LINK.