wtdash

4.11 rear diff for '90 & '91 vs. 3.90 for '91 turbo and '92-'94 Automatics.

Interested to know if you've put on the Michelins or got new treads and the result? I've got a similar issue that occurs w/both my all-seasons and studded snows. I thought it may be due to the struts needing replaced....but the CV axles are both from the local Autozone (I know! I know!), so maybe they're the culprit.

I can recommend Louie's Transmission. They repaired (not rebuilt) my '95 Legacy AT transmission (lost reverse/torque bind) and did some other related work to a Dakota I had....but double-check w/the Better Business Bureau as it's been a few years ago. Louies Automotive & Transmission Service 1323 N Monroe St Spokane, WA 99201 Map (509) 483-2354 If you do need to replace it, I would also suggest saving the $$ and finding a used one....unless you're going to keep this car for a long time....it's unlikely you'd get your $$ back out of it if you decide to sell it soon.

Local Subie parts department says fogs listed as "No longer available"...

My '90 has plastic pieces in the exact same place, which look very similar to the pics....but mine may be 'covers' - so maybe those ARE the fogs....although I don't see how you'd every get in there to change 'em out.........I wonder if SoA would still sell the lights...I may call just for s.

RE: the codes: "Blinking once every 1/4sec is normal"...meaning no issues. Sounds fixed? Good luck.

There's a super clean '91 on Ebait (Item number: 110185606101) w/a fog light switch..or is it (below the defroster and cruise buttons)? Here's the front of the car: Where are the lights???

The interlock release lever switch by the panel allows the shifter to move w/out the key inserted. There is no overdrive override switch...shifter must be moved to 3rd. If the 'power' light comes on, their may be a code stored. Check this: http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

Gary, Do you recommend just the Ebait pulleys or the timing belt, too? I've heard to stick w/the OEM belt? Thanks

http://www.geocities.com/kuleshoff/IAC.htm

He had "spiked ice tyres" (thanks for the link)...those probably helped - a little . I thought rally races were mainly flat?? I probably need to get out more! Unfortunately I've not had that opportunity to see much rally driving on snow...But w/35 years of skiing experience, and the steepness of the approach to those jumps, I'm still surprised it can climb that well - heck, who needs a snowmobile!

Yep, I saw it last nite, too. Amazing! I'm a bit skeptical that it's 'for real', but it's kewl none the less. That snow must be very 'firm' to allow the car to drive up?...Looks like tracks going up to the left (boarder's right) of the jump in the pic, and then coming down. I guess w/4wd and front and rear lockers it's possible?

Yes...but how big a problem? Never stopped me from getting where I'm going:) . I just remember to kick it loose so it doesn't freeze too solid.

Should be the same. Call a couple more shops. Also, these should both be fuel-injected - not carbureted (sp?). Also, this should be in the Old Gen...New Gen is Legacy, Baja, Forester, Impreza, SVX, WRX, STI, Tribeca....

Miles were 150K+..... According to the seller (the donor car was long gone), the car it came out of had a grimy looking engine, but the tranny looked comparatively clean/'new'/rebuilt, .....so either I got screwed over, or when they rebuilt the transmission they didn't rebuild the clutches??:-\ Seems I read that some shops may consider that a separate job?? Regardless, I guess I've got more AT/AWD fun ahead. I'll start looking but if anyone has a link to a write-up on whether this can be done w/out completely removing the tranny, please let me know. Thanks for the info guys...It's appreciated!

Yes, on occasion. No TB on the old trans. The AWD worked fine.

'90 Legacy, AT, AWD. Swapped in a '91 Turbo AT, AWD, a few months back. (Yes, I also swapped in the rear 3.9VLSD.) The car shifts fine and runs great w/the 'new' tranny, but it has AWD issues, which look a lot like a bad Duty C solenoid. Symptoms: 1. Torque Bind (TB) - Occasionally. If the front wheels slip when accelerating, there's a slight delay before the rear wheels kick-in. If I then make a turn, TB is apparent. However, if I accelerate slowly/easily (no slip), and then make a turn or pull into my parking space @ work, there is no TB. 2. AT Fluid flushed - No difference. 3. FWD fuse installed = No TB. 4. Code from tranny indicates Duty-C Solenoid: 2-4. I've swapped in the Turbo's TCU and didn't notice any difference - either in TB or the delay. I still have the '90's tranny, and plan on swapping in its rear hub section along w/a new Duty C. Feedback, please!

I did the OB strut swap on my '90 Leg. I have 205/75R-14 all-seasons and 205/70R-15 studded snows that both fit, but the front of the REAR tire is close to the fender - front tires are fine. I read somewhere on here where 215/75R-14 may fit. Also, different mfg. tires have different dimensions, I've noticed. The difference between my two sizes is only about .2" in width and diameter. The tires DO rub just slightly @ full steering lock. I bought the almost new 205/75R-14 off Craigslist for <$60, w/mounting/balancing I was set for about $100 for all 4!

Check out this link: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58%20f69c2cbd I believe, if I read it correctly, '91 is 4.11 (AT or 5MT); the 1995 is 3.9 MT.

I put '97 OB struts on my '90 Legacy w/out a camber issue...didn't even know the Foresters would fit a Leg! Not that it answers your question.... The '95 should be OBDII compliant (even though '96 and newer were required to be OBDII). Try Autozone or another parts store to lend you a scanner. Sounds like the CA sensor is bad and causing the CEL.

The VDC (vs. VDO) had/has a badge on the front fenders. Yours does have an LSD according this site: http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/lsd/lsd.html I have a rear VLSD on my '90, but I've not played w/it yet to see if makes noises when it kicks in (hopefully, it doesn't also 'Kick Out' the rear-end mid-corner!)

Mr. Porcupine, that is one rusted nut! Your cars in the NE pay for having clear roads....we in the NW pay w/worn roads from studded snows.

EJ. EAs died off w/the Loyale in '94, I believe.

To re-emphasize what's likely in the write-up. Mark the top bolt on the strut, as it affects your alignment. If you put it back in the same place you shouldn't need to get it re-aligned. The socket was a 1 1/4 (32mm) on my '90, but that's a distant relative of your OB.

Yeah, we struggled w/the suspension parts when I did mine, too. You were one of the lucky ones then...being able to get your diff out w/out undoing the suspension. I believe you'll see that there's not quite enough clearance/room to just remove the axle...you'll need to undo something....