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I think you can, but will have to remove the suspension....but how did you replace the differential? Did you remove one side of the suspension, like the link w/the instructions suggested?

Well done! I wish I knew what that noise was....does it do it in all gears, e.g. D, 3, 2, and 1 thru all RPMS? Any chance it's a wheel bearing? @ least the AWD is working....you'll need that soon!

I think I've just reached my 'level of ignorance', as I don't know what to tell you about the fluid on top, nor do I know the best way to clean it out. Unless someone else chimes in or you 'google it', I'd call a tranny/diff shop and get their recommendation.

Wow...that sounds like my old OB...except mine was white.. I pounded a nail thru the heat shield -not the exhaust!- which stopped the rattle. I had a rust bubble on the driver's side rear wheel arch. You may just need to clean the contacts on the window switch - since you're 'old school' that should be a familiar task?? Oh, did you check for Subie leaks? Cam, valve cover, rear main (rare, but $$) seals? They're usually not a big deal but because they leak on the exhaust, your wife may not like the smell!

It sounds like you're saying there are 2 fluid containers in the diff? The 'good' stuff on top; and the not so good on bottom? I'm pretty sure it's all the same, though. Does it turn freely by hand? If so, you're probably fine. Also, I found this on 'endwrench': http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/GearRatiosInfoF99.pdf I hope yours is still OK. Good luck w/the install.

Welcome to the New Gen... To add to the above: The head gaskets will cost a min. of $1500, unless you're a mechanic. One thing visually to check is the coolant overflow tank. If there's any oily film or it looks 'grimy', the HG is on its way out....although it could've been done and they didn't clean it out afterwards. Also, make sure on the test drive the temp gauge rises to just below midway and doesn't move once warmed up. If it fluctuates @ all, that may be another sign. With the torque bind (TB), there may be a procedure, using the FWD fuse under the hood, to identify whether a tranny flush will fix it or not....a little searching will describe TB in more detail - Nipper here on USMB is an expert. Drive the car in circles/figure 8's to test for this - it should be nice and smooth, if you feel any 'dragging' you've got it. Expect $900+ to fix - the tranny doesn't need rebuilt, but rear clutches do, which requires a lot in labor to drop the tranny. I'd also check for rust on nut/bolts under the hood- common on NE cars anyway...it isn't a real issue 'til it's time to replace suspension/drive train parts, which can cause issues when replacement time comes around. Regardless of these issues, I'd still buy another one. I like the way they drive and get around in the snow great! $3000 is a good price IF it checks out okay...maybe there are records in the glove box?? Good luck.

If you're referring to the one holding up the rear of the tranny (not the diff itself), it does not....otherwise, I'm not sure.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=211571&sid=e48c3ef81a2c5bb471b7f95 27f7f5096 This is the link to the writeup on replacing the rear diff. Remember, you may need an alignment when done, unless suspension stuff is marked before it's removed (rear struts don't matter).

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?p=211571&sid=e48c3ef81a2c5bb471b7f9527f7f5096 This is the link to the writeup on replacing the rear diff. Remember, you may need an alignment when done, unless suspension stuff is marked before it's removed (rear struts don't matter). EDIT: What a DA I am! I got this confused w/another thread I'm helping on...regardless, here's an interchange chart as it sounds like you'll be replacing your rear diff: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58 f69c2cbd This is for USDM models, so not sure how valid it is for you Int'l guys.

I saw your post on legacyentral, too. I wanted to add you 'may' be OK driving in FWD mode to save $$ on replacing the rear diff, but I've read mixed reviews on doing that. It's supposedly a diagnostic mode, so it may damage your tranny over time...can't say for sure.

Actually, you have many choices. If you check that link I gave above, all listed as 3.9 from '91 Turbos to '94 will work for your rear diff. Doesn't have to be an Auto either, I'm pretty sure. I'm not good diagnosing noises...but hopefully it's the rear diff vs. the tranny itself. Does the noise go away w/the FWD fuse in?

Only the diff. The axles can stay. There is a great write-up on this - may be on USMB...I just saw it a couple days back, but now can't find it:mad: ....I'll let u know if/when I do. What I remember is you'll need to get the correct punch to remove the inner roll pins, remove the bolts that hold the diff up, disconnect the driveline, and likely have to disconnect some rear suspension pieces to gain enough room to drop the diff out (Note: I didn't try this, but it seems like you should/could be able to put the rear tires up on ramps- not on jacks - and this would allow the rear diff to drop low enough that the axles would come out, since the wheels would be compressed up by the weight of the car vs. hanging in the air if on jacks??? I'm likely missing a key issue w/this idea, otherwise it would be documented that it works!!!:-\ ). None of it was technically challenging, but some of the bolts were way tight - make sure you either have a breaker bar or air tools, and hitting the bolts/nuts w/WD40 or PB Blast the night before could make it go a lot smoother if you have rust to contend with. Good luck!

You could use the FWD fuse under the hood to diagnose it, too. Find the empty parking lot w/snow, punch it; repeat w/the FWD fuse installed. If there's no difference you've got no AWD. It could just be worn tires, since you couldn't keep up w/that other Subie. And if you haven't heard, Subies need all 4 tires replaced @ the same time - don't replace just 2. It is bad for Subie AWD trannys to have tires unevenly worn. Studded snows are popular up here in the NW around Spokane. We get a lot of temps right around freezing during the winter, so on many mornings we'll be iced up, but by mid-morning it's thawed out. It also explains why we have so many potholes! I, too, am jealous of your Tahoe snow! Good luck.

No offense to Manarius.... I'm 99% sure the '90 and '91 Legs are 4.11; '92-'94 are 3.9. This is for the 2.2 Non-turbos, Automatic, AWD. I replaced mine in July and had to figure this out and make sure I got the right rear diff. I don't understand how the AWD can work on your car, regardless of the TCU you're using,...that's a mystery. But maybe the pulling to one side is indicative that it's the wrong diff. Here's a link that's a bit hard to follow, but shows the Legacy rear diff history: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=13500&sid=7add370daf15909c801cba58f69c2cbd

My '90 Leg wagon does this too. I thought it was just the cooler weather. Does yours do it regardless of temp?

In the NW (Spokane or Seattle), this is a <$6500 (Private Seller) car w/stock stereo...HG issue or not. I've seen these on Ebait for $3500, but they also have more NE rust (no offense) than metal in places. I bought a '97 from a guy in FL, and even after having it shipped it was still $1000 under local book value @ the time. IMHO, it's all about location, location, location.

Definitely stiffer, but my stock struts were gone, so not really a fair comparison. I also bought used (60K) replacement struts....so your new ones will be firmer yet.

I had a '98 OB (Phase I - 2.5) that had the piston slap - it had 114K miles. I took it to 3 shops (no dealers) and none could really diagnose it - other than suggest a rebuild. That was about the time I found this site and learned about the issue. If it does go away, then it's likely p-slap. I read where Subaru actually considered this normal. Here's a link: http://www.butkus.org/subaru/piston_slap/subaru_piston_slap.htm The movie link doesn't work, but looks like it was covered by warranty, which tells me maybe it's NOT normal? Here's a Subaru letter saying it's normal: http://cs.senecac.on.ca/~selmys/subaru-letter.txt here's the original link: http://cs.senecac.on.ca/~selmys/subaru.html Would different weight oil help? Probably not since it's above the oil? Good luck

Yep, I was able to reuse one hole (I think it was the inner one), and drilled the other two. The top of the hat does NOT fit in the hole if you do this, but in my case it's only off 1/4 inch and tightened up fine, which I could live with. If you do a lot of muddy/wet driving I 'spose stuff could get up in there, so seal it w/something if that's a concern. If you drilled 3 new holes it should fit in the hole, but check for clearance on the inside of the wheel well, regardless. I didn't have the tools to swap hats, so I just said WTH, and did it...this is a $2000 car that only I drive; not a new OB XT for the family. And if it doesn't work for whatever reason? Pull 'em out and swap hats. Nothing to mark in the rear, that I recall. Also, you'll figure it out, but when dealing w/the brake lines, I pulled out the metal tab that holds 'em in place, cut the bracket in the middle so I could move one side up and the other down to get the line out. This could be an issue if you're in the NE Rust-land and they break, but mine were rusty and are still intact.

Yes, you'll need old style 'top hats' for the rears... or you can drill new holes....which I've been running since March '07 w/no issues. Except for the rear top hats, everything bolted up the same. I've NOT done any serious off-roading so not sure if there's rubbing @ full tilt. Also, if you have the rear anti-sway bar as my '90 does, it might rub the gas tank - although mine doesn't. Remember to mark the front strut adjustment bolt (top one?) BEFORE you loosen/remove it. If you put it back where it was, your alignment (if correct beforehand) should still be good - mine was when I took it in to be checked. Sorry, no info on height difference.

If I didn't say it someone else would re: searching 1st. There's lots of info on overheating here. I didn't see a list what trouble-shooting you've done, the link gives a place to start...w/out having to tear into the motor again. I filled mine slow and still had a big air bubble. I fixed it following the info in the link....and so have others.

Welcome to USMB. Please use the Search function, as it's the quickest way to find answers....plus it's part of 'forum etiquette' - not just here, but on all sites....to look first and then ask. Check out this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Setright+radiator I bet you have air trapped in the system. Good Luck

I'm in the 'fix it camp' too. The HG should be <$1500 job - not a cheap repair, but cheaper than a new car. Look on Car Talk's website (the NPR guys) for local, reputable mechanics. Or AAA can recommend some too. Also, I know it's a long-shot, but my old '90 Legacy had a similar HG-like issue after I flushed the radiator due to an air bubble. I re-filled the system from the top hose and all was good. Any chance it just needs burped? Do a tranny flush, which may help, but likely the delay in the 4EAT won't get worse.....Mine didn't. Also, here in the Northwest $5k is cheap for a '99 OB w/130k...even though it seems we have about 1/2 the OBWs in the US driving around - they are everywhere. But still hold their value. If I could get 'em for $3k 'round here, I'd replace my '90! So, cut yourself some slack. When winter shows up, you'll be glad you got it! Good Luck!

Pics posted in "my photos". I included info w/each pic, but if someone has a better way to post, please let me know. Also, any constructive criticism is welcome, as I don't know the 'proper' names of some of the tranny and TC parts.

Yep, find the post by Setright. Here's the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Setright+radiator I had the same issue. Essentially, he fills it from the top radiator hose. On my '90 EJ22 I filled everything up thru the radiator, and then there is a bleeder hole on the top of the radiator. I undid it just enough to let steam/air/water come out and filled from the top radiator hose (on the passenger side on my car) and when water started coming out the release valve I was done (I did this w/the car running) - closed it all back up and no probs since.