wtdash

I concur. Well said.

And we are grateful for that!

I saw that article in CR, which I subscribe to, as well. I’m surprised they allowed CNN to publish that, although CR also partners w/MSN Autos. Lexus, Toyota and Honda have are historically @ the top of CR's lists. Deservedly so, IMHO, as they are the most reliable and have the highest resale value (which justifies the fact that they’re rarely discounted when new). These brands are ‘much better than average” vehicles, whereas Subes fall into the ‘better than average” ratings. But Subes are in the top 5 of all cars….along the lines of Mazda (b4 Ford bought ‘em) and a couple others. NO OFFENSE to Uniberp, but part of the reason CR focuses on mainstream products is to ensure they get a statistically significant amount of responses on their annual questionnaires, which provide their reliability ratings. And they are definitely inclined toward the average consumer – not the enthusiasts that comprise the USMB or other boards. CR takes NO ADVERTISING $$ from anyone – they’re wholly funded by subscriptions and donations (That’s why I get an effing request every month! J). Here’s some info I pulled from “somewhere” that shows a couple Subarus: SPORTS/SPORTY CARS Most Reliable Lexus SC Toyota Camry Solara (4-cyl.) Subaru Impreza WRX Honda S2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse* Least Reliable Pontiac Solstice* Mercedes-Benz SL Mercedes-Benz CLK Mercedes-Benz SLK (V6) Chevrolet Corvette Porsche 911 Ford Mustang (V6) SMALL SUVs Most Reliable Toyota FJ Cruiser* Honda Element Honda CR-V Toyota RAV4* Subaru Forester Least Reliable Kia Sportage *Based on one model year; redesigned or introduced for 2006.

You'll give up about 18-25HP - 130 ('90-94)-137 ('95+) vs.155, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy) but also won't need to run Premium, which the '96 2.5 required. I echo Grossgary - go w/a '95 or newer 2.2 as they are OBDII vs. <'94s OBDI to avoid possible wiring/sensor issues. A '95 exhaust should bolt right up; '96+ are slightly different. Sorry, but I don't know whether the <'94 engines will bolt to your '96 AWD AT. Good luck. P.S. Looks like Nipper types faster!

That's exactly where mine are, too. I'll take it in - after vaca. Thanks for the info!

I'd like to know this too. Mine are frayed (fraid?).

Yeah, I was concerned about it running upside down...or if it rolled back onto its wheels....not sure the Seller knows either.

Local guy on Craigslist selling a '92 SS w/an AT and 195,000 miles. I just want the EJ22T (and the wheels) and the whole car ensures I get all the parts for the swap. Car was a 'soft roll' so the roof, hood and one fender took the hit. It's been sitting in back yard under a tarp for 2 years. Might run, but hasn't been started by seller. No history/maintenance available. Title is available. Asking $950. What say Usmb?

To answer your question, I paid $19.99 for the drain and fill for the rear (and the front) including the gear oil. I used a breaker bar too. They were very tight on my 'new' (to me) '91 VLSD when I recently checked it.

Did the deed this last Friday/Saturday. I had 2 helpers and we replaced the transmission, torque converter, driveline, flexplate, rear axles, left front axle (surprise!), starter and rear differential. As mentioned thru-out USMB the TC was a challenge to line up :-\ . We all spent some time trying to figure it out. Eventually, I figured out what worked was to put the approx. 10" tube piece into the TC, then put both pieces into the tranny, turn it a bit, and it would seat. Used tie wraps/cable ties to hold it in place during the install. W/out the old to 'test' with, I'm not sure we'd have figured it out! I'm going to make a point to post some pics. The rear diff was only a pain as there is more hardware to remove to get the axles out- axle nut, control arms, sway bar, strut...on the front it's just the nut and struts. The front left axle boot was completely ripped, and the inside of the wheel, fender and strut were covered in grease, so that was the surprise:rolleyes: , but was an easy $75 fix w/an axle from Autozone (yeah, I know - not A1 quality but I needed it - NOW) . Outside of stipping a bolt on the pinion/yoke connection, which didn't matter as we replaced them w/the new (er) diff and driveline, there were no other major issues. I did find my left front bearing is shot, as I took it in for an alignment (I didn't 'supervise' the removal of the front struts and mark the alignment bolts) and they couldn't do it due to the bad bearing . Those are E-x-p-e-n-s-i-v-e to repair..$250+!! I did leave the '90 TCU in initially and didn't seem to have AWD - that was until I punched it on a dirt road the rear end felt like it kicked in after 10 feet or so. But the next morning, I could hear the front wheels squeal a bit on take off and I've NEVER broken them loose on dry pavement, so I don't think the AWD was working correctly. So, I swapped in the '91 Turbo TCU last nite and it seemed to be working properly- I 'tested' it on a patch of gravel road and couldn't break it loose ....If I still had only FWD, it should've spun for a little bit...even w/the non-turbo 2.2! Thanks to all for the info on the forum and to 86RUGuy for helping me get the tranny and to GrossGary for his valuable input. UP next??? Maybe a Turbo??? Or something easy like the 50/50 diff lock trick.

Replace tranny...see this thread...if interested. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77466&highlight=4eat+install

Mike, Old post, but I'm doing this job soon. Is the issue above separate from getting the TC in correctly? I've read where it's a challenge to get the TC seated correctly, too. Thanks

I don't know how much lift overall by just replacing w/OB struts and springs, but likely @ least 2 inches....I know that when I first got in the car after the swap it was noticeably higher. Swapping top hats depends on your tool selection. I've never done Subaru top hats, but I've heard it's easier to remove the top hats if you loosen 'em (don't remove!) while they're still installed, but if you have a vise/work bench, probably not a big deal. Then you'll need the spring compressor, which if you have power tools makes it an easier job, too.

Gary, What's your opinion on TC's...should it be replaced w/new? I've got the replacement scheduled for next weekend...provided I can get the seals from the local dealer in time.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75024 On my post above I stated I was looking for a used replacement for my '90 Leg AWD Wagon due to a couple issues. Although the issues haven't gotten any worse, I"m planning on doing the swap w/in the next month. I bought a '91 4EAT and rear VLSD, both out of a Turbo (Mucho Thanks to 86ruguy for his help!) that I'm ready to install. I also got the Torque Converter, driveline, TCU, starter, Flexplate and rear axles. Mr. Grossgary suggested the TC seal, ring seal around the torque converter shaft and the rear output shaft seal.....there's also a 'graphite' seal, which may be included in Gary's list?? He also states to leave the rear main alone, unless it's leaking (it's not- yet), as it is tricky to replace. I have a Haynes manual and will likely enlist the help of a family friend who's a Jeep fanatic - he has the tools and a shop. Any other links or books/manuals I should get? This will be my 1st project of this magnitude, but this doesn't sound like it's technically challenging as much as labor intensive. I've done a search here and thru Google, so I have some info to go on, (esp. about ensuring the TC seats properly) but any additional details are appreciated. Also, any info specific to checking-out the VLSD is welcomed. Thanks!

I did a direct swap of front and rear struts from a '97 OB (used) onto my '90 AWD Legacy. I drilled 2 new holes in the rear as I didn't want to deal w/swapping top hats. I believe I used the outer bolt hole as a guide. Mine do not fit perfectly inside the hole in the top of the strut mounting location - they're off by 1/2" or so, but snugged up tight and don't squeak. If you drill 3 new holes using the OB top hat as a guide they might fit like the originals. Other than the top hat issue, installation was easy enough - and I'm no mechanic. I did struggle making room for the struts in the front and rear but found a lever to pry the wheels down far enough to get the struts in. For the brake line, you'll need to remove the clip and cut the brakeline mounting bracket thru one side and bend one end up and the other down to get the hose out. I've had no issues w/spacing of the rear sway bar or any other suspension parts. I have 205/75-R14 tires, which do rub on the front @ full lock. I have 205/70-R15 studded snows that are essentially the same dimensions, and fit too. There's less than an inch between the front of the back tire and fender edge. I've not had the car offroad to test full travel, however. I took it in for an alignment and it was just barely off in the front - ensure you mark the locating bolts/nuts/spacers when removing. The car drives straight w/no issues. It does respond quickly to steering input, but maybe just more noticeable as my old struts were.....old! I have over 4K miles on the swap and so far, so good. Good luck.

Our Co. car was an '03 Forester and the dealer did the brakes @ 32k (2005) for free....said it was part of the warranty? I was totally surprised/happy as I always thought after 12K it was considered 'owner maintenance'. Any chance your '04 qualified for this, too?

Buy this from the guy in Yakima? Regardless, have fun w/it.

My guess is Spokane Hoopfest traffic heading back. 20,000 plus competitors (6,000 3+ member teams), quite a few from Seattle I'd bet, would cause some grief. This is common on holiday weekends, too. I used to live over there and had the 'pleasure' of doing the Ellensburg to summit stop-n-go.

'90 Legacy Wagon w/"power" locks. Passenger-side interior door lock button/switch (Gen1 don't have a dedicated lock/unlock switch) will not stay unlocked while pulling the interior handle; pulling the handle causes it to lock. I have to hold the button "open" while pulling the handle to open the door. Also, occurs from outside if the button is not completely open on the inside. I took it apart but can't figure out if something's missing or just broken. Or whether it's related to the handle or the door latch mechanism itself. The power locks do work on the passenger door, BTW. Thanks for any insight.

Put me in for a set, too, please. I believe the '90-'94 models are the same, but would like a '90-'91 to be sure. This is the front driver and passenger seat belts, and the trim on the B-pillar, along the headliner and down to the windshield (or do you Canadians call it a Windscreen? ). I'd take blue or gray. Thanks, Td

Pretty sure that's an OBDII, because the '95 2.2 is a frequent donor to '96-98 Outbacks w/the 2.5. Everyone says it "bolts right up" - including all the wiring.

The EJ22 is a great engine. Regarding non-interference, only the EJ22 non-turbos prior to '97 are non-interference, according to what I've read here and elsewhere. Here's a Wikipedia link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine "The SOHC EJ Subaru boxer engines were non-interference engines through 1996. "

I pulled all the belts and the noise is still there, so still unknown. I did try to remove the heat shield under the front cat (as suggested by Subie shop), but the bolts are rusted/heat welded? so that won't be done anytime soon..no rattles coming from it regardless. I did put 800+ miles on the car over the weekend, w/out incident. Car ran perfect, shifted great going up/down 2 passes and got 28+ MPG @ 70 mph (OR) - 75 mph (WA). I'll drive it as is and keep an eye out for another tranny. Thanks all for the feedback.