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I had a '98 OB (Phase I - 2.5) that had the piston slap - it had 114K miles. I took it to 3 shops (no dealers) and none could really diagnose it - other than suggest a rebuild. That was about the time I found this site and learned about the issue. If it does go away, then it's likely p-slap. I read where Subaru actually considered this normal. Here's a link: http://www.butkus.org/subaru/piston_slap/subaru_piston_slap.htm The movie link doesn't work, but looks like it was covered by warranty, which tells me maybe it's NOT normal? Here's a Subaru letter saying it's normal: http://cs.senecac.on.ca/~selmys/subaru-letter.txt here's the original link: http://cs.senecac.on.ca/~selmys/subaru.html Would different weight oil help? Probably not since it's above the oil? Good luck

Yep, I was able to reuse one hole (I think it was the inner one), and drilled the other two. The top of the hat does NOT fit in the hole if you do this, but in my case it's only off 1/4 inch and tightened up fine, which I could live with. If you do a lot of muddy/wet driving I 'spose stuff could get up in there, so seal it w/something if that's a concern. If you drilled 3 new holes it should fit in the hole, but check for clearance on the inside of the wheel well, regardless. I didn't have the tools to swap hats, so I just said WTH, and did it...this is a $2000 car that only I drive; not a new OB XT for the family. And if it doesn't work for whatever reason? Pull 'em out and swap hats. Nothing to mark in the rear, that I recall. Also, you'll figure it out, but when dealing w/the brake lines, I pulled out the metal tab that holds 'em in place, cut the bracket in the middle so I could move one side up and the other down to get the line out. This could be an issue if you're in the NE Rust-land and they break, but mine were rusty and are still intact.

Yes, you'll need old style 'top hats' for the rears... or you can drill new holes....which I've been running since March '07 w/no issues. Except for the rear top hats, everything bolted up the same. I've NOT done any serious off-roading so not sure if there's rubbing @ full tilt. Also, if you have the rear anti-sway bar as my '90 does, it might rub the gas tank - although mine doesn't. Remember to mark the front strut adjustment bolt (top one?) BEFORE you loosen/remove it. If you put it back where it was, your alignment (if correct beforehand) should still be good - mine was when I took it in to be checked. Sorry, no info on height difference.

If I didn't say it someone else would re: searching 1st. There's lots of info on overheating here. I didn't see a list what trouble-shooting you've done, the link gives a place to start...w/out having to tear into the motor again. I filled mine slow and still had a big air bubble. I fixed it following the info in the link....and so have others.

Welcome to USMB. Please use the Search function, as it's the quickest way to find answers....plus it's part of 'forum etiquette' - not just here, but on all sites....to look first and then ask. Check out this link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Setright+radiator I bet you have air trapped in the system. Good Luck

I'm in the 'fix it camp' too. The HG should be <$1500 job - not a cheap repair, but cheaper than a new car. Look on Car Talk's website (the NPR guys) for local, reputable mechanics. Or AAA can recommend some too. Also, I know it's a long-shot, but my old '90 Legacy had a similar HG-like issue after I flushed the radiator due to an air bubble. I re-filled the system from the top hose and all was good. Any chance it just needs burped? Do a tranny flush, which may help, but likely the delay in the 4EAT won't get worse.....Mine didn't. Also, here in the Northwest $5k is cheap for a '99 OB w/130k...even though it seems we have about 1/2 the OBWs in the US driving around - they are everywhere. But still hold their value. If I could get 'em for $3k 'round here, I'd replace my '90! So, cut yourself some slack. When winter shows up, you'll be glad you got it! Good Luck!

Pics posted in "my photos". I included info w/each pic, but if someone has a better way to post, please let me know. Also, any constructive criticism is welcome, as I don't know the 'proper' names of some of the tranny and TC parts.

Yep, find the post by Setright. Here's the link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Setright+radiator I had the same issue. Essentially, he fills it from the top radiator hose. On my '90 EJ22 I filled everything up thru the radiator, and then there is a bleeder hole on the top of the radiator. I undid it just enough to let steam/air/water come out and filled from the top radiator hose (on the passenger side on my car) and when water started coming out the release valve I was done (I did this w/the car running) - closed it all back up and no probs since.

I concur. Well said.

And we are grateful for that!

I saw that article in CR, which I subscribe to, as well. I’m surprised they allowed CNN to publish that, although CR also partners w/MSN Autos. Lexus, Toyota and Honda have are historically @ the top of CR's lists. Deservedly so, IMHO, as they are the most reliable and have the highest resale value (which justifies the fact that they’re rarely discounted when new). These brands are ‘much better than average” vehicles, whereas Subes fall into the ‘better than average” ratings. But Subes are in the top 5 of all cars….along the lines of Mazda (b4 Ford bought ‘em) and a couple others. NO OFFENSE to Uniberp, but part of the reason CR focuses on mainstream products is to ensure they get a statistically significant amount of responses on their annual questionnaires, which provide their reliability ratings. And they are definitely inclined toward the average consumer – not the enthusiasts that comprise the USMB or other boards. CR takes NO ADVERTISING $$ from anyone – they’re wholly funded by subscriptions and donations (That’s why I get an effing request every month! J). Here’s some info I pulled from “somewhere” that shows a couple Subarus: SPORTS/SPORTY CARS Most Reliable Lexus SC Toyota Camry Solara (4-cyl.) Subaru Impreza WRX Honda S2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse* Least Reliable Pontiac Solstice* Mercedes-Benz SL Mercedes-Benz CLK Mercedes-Benz SLK (V6) Chevrolet Corvette Porsche 911 Ford Mustang (V6) SMALL SUVs Most Reliable Toyota FJ Cruiser* Honda Element Honda CR-V Toyota RAV4* Subaru Forester Least Reliable Kia Sportage *Based on one model year; redesigned or introduced for 2006.

You'll give up about 18-25HP - 130 ('90-94)-137 ('95+) vs.155, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Legacy) but also won't need to run Premium, which the '96 2.5 required. I echo Grossgary - go w/a '95 or newer 2.2 as they are OBDII vs. <'94s OBDI to avoid possible wiring/sensor issues. A '95 exhaust should bolt right up; '96+ are slightly different. Sorry, but I don't know whether the <'94 engines will bolt to your '96 AWD AT. Good luck. P.S. Looks like Nipper types faster!

That's exactly where mine are, too. I'll take it in - after vaca. Thanks for the info!

I'd like to know this too. Mine are frayed (fraid?).

Yeah, I was concerned about it running upside down...or if it rolled back onto its wheels....not sure the Seller knows either.

Local guy on Craigslist selling a '92 SS w/an AT and 195,000 miles. I just want the EJ22T (and the wheels) and the whole car ensures I get all the parts for the swap. Car was a 'soft roll' so the roof, hood and one fender took the hit. It's been sitting in back yard under a tarp for 2 years. Might run, but hasn't been started by seller. No history/maintenance available. Title is available. Asking $950. What say Usmb?

To answer your question, I paid $19.99 for the drain and fill for the rear (and the front) including the gear oil. I used a breaker bar too. They were very tight on my 'new' (to me) '91 VLSD when I recently checked it.

Did the deed this last Friday/Saturday. I had 2 helpers and we replaced the transmission, torque converter, driveline, flexplate, rear axles, left front axle (surprise!), starter and rear differential. As mentioned thru-out USMB the TC was a challenge to line up :-\ . We all spent some time trying to figure it out. Eventually, I figured out what worked was to put the approx. 10" tube piece into the TC, then put both pieces into the tranny, turn it a bit, and it would seat. Used tie wraps/cable ties to hold it in place during the install. W/out the old to 'test' with, I'm not sure we'd have figured it out! I'm going to make a point to post some pics. The rear diff was only a pain as there is more hardware to remove to get the axles out- axle nut, control arms, sway bar, strut...on the front it's just the nut and struts. The front left axle boot was completely ripped, and the inside of the wheel, fender and strut were covered in grease, so that was the surprise:rolleyes: , but was an easy $75 fix w/an axle from Autozone (yeah, I know - not A1 quality but I needed it - NOW) . Outside of stipping a bolt on the pinion/yoke connection, which didn't matter as we replaced them w/the new (er) diff and driveline, there were no other major issues. I did find my left front bearing is shot, as I took it in for an alignment (I didn't 'supervise' the removal of the front struts and mark the alignment bolts) and they couldn't do it due to the bad bearing . Those are E-x-p-e-n-s-i-v-e to repair..$250+!! I did leave the '90 TCU in initially and didn't seem to have AWD - that was until I punched it on a dirt road the rear end felt like it kicked in after 10 feet or so. But the next morning, I could hear the front wheels squeal a bit on take off and I've NEVER broken them loose on dry pavement, so I don't think the AWD was working correctly. So, I swapped in the '91 Turbo TCU last nite and it seemed to be working properly- I 'tested' it on a patch of gravel road and couldn't break it loose ....If I still had only FWD, it should've spun for a little bit...even w/the non-turbo 2.2! Thanks to all for the info on the forum and to 86RUGuy for helping me get the tranny and to GrossGary for his valuable input. UP next??? Maybe a Turbo??? Or something easy like the 50/50 diff lock trick.

Replace tranny...see this thread...if interested. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77466&highlight=4eat+install

Mike, Old post, but I'm doing this job soon. Is the issue above separate from getting the TC in correctly? I've read where it's a challenge to get the TC seated correctly, too. Thanks

I don't know how much lift overall by just replacing w/OB struts and springs, but likely @ least 2 inches....I know that when I first got in the car after the swap it was noticeably higher. Swapping top hats depends on your tool selection. I've never done Subaru top hats, but I've heard it's easier to remove the top hats if you loosen 'em (don't remove!) while they're still installed, but if you have a vise/work bench, probably not a big deal. Then you'll need the spring compressor, which if you have power tools makes it an easier job, too.

Gary, What's your opinion on TC's...should it be replaced w/new? I've got the replacement scheduled for next weekend...provided I can get the seals from the local dealer in time.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75024 On my post above I stated I was looking for a used replacement for my '90 Leg AWD Wagon due to a couple issues. Although the issues haven't gotten any worse, I"m planning on doing the swap w/in the next month. I bought a '91 4EAT and rear VLSD, both out of a Turbo (Mucho Thanks to 86ruguy for his help!) that I'm ready to install. I also got the Torque Converter, driveline, TCU, starter, Flexplate and rear axles. Mr. Grossgary suggested the TC seal, ring seal around the torque converter shaft and the rear output shaft seal.....there's also a 'graphite' seal, which may be included in Gary's list?? He also states to leave the rear main alone, unless it's leaking (it's not- yet), as it is tricky to replace. I have a Haynes manual and will likely enlist the help of a family friend who's a Jeep fanatic - he has the tools and a shop. Any other links or books/manuals I should get? This will be my 1st project of this magnitude, but this doesn't sound like it's technically challenging as much as labor intensive. I've done a search here and thru Google, so I have some info to go on, (esp. about ensuring the TC seats properly) but any additional details are appreciated. Also, any info specific to checking-out the VLSD is welcomed. Thanks!

I did a direct swap of front and rear struts from a '97 OB (used) onto my '90 AWD Legacy. I drilled 2 new holes in the rear as I didn't want to deal w/swapping top hats. I believe I used the outer bolt hole as a guide. Mine do not fit perfectly inside the hole in the top of the strut mounting location - they're off by 1/2" or so, but snugged up tight and don't squeak. If you drill 3 new holes using the OB top hat as a guide they might fit like the originals. Other than the top hat issue, installation was easy enough - and I'm no mechanic. I did struggle making room for the struts in the front and rear but found a lever to pry the wheels down far enough to get the struts in. For the brake line, you'll need to remove the clip and cut the brakeline mounting bracket thru one side and bend one end up and the other down to get the hose out. I've had no issues w/spacing of the rear sway bar or any other suspension parts. I have 205/75-R14 tires, which do rub on the front @ full lock. I have 205/70-R15 studded snows that are essentially the same dimensions, and fit too. There's less than an inch between the front of the back tire and fender edge. I've not had the car offroad to test full travel, however. I took it in for an alignment and it was just barely off in the front - ensure you mark the locating bolts/nuts/spacers when removing. The car drives straight w/no issues. It does respond quickly to steering input, but maybe just more noticeable as my old struts were.....old! I have over 4K miles on the swap and so far, so good. Good luck.

Our Co. car was an '03 Forester and the dealer did the brakes @ 32k (2005) for free....said it was part of the warranty? I was totally surprised/happy as I always thought after 12K it was considered 'owner maintenance'. Any chance your '04 qualified for this, too?