wtdash

Torque bind is AT AND AWD only, as far as I know.

Yeah, $1400 @ the most, esp. since it's only 2WD. Make sure you check the CVs. W/154k they're either done or will need done shortly. If you can fix the stuff yourself, that's a plus. If you want to fix the AC, it'll cost you big as it's the old stuff.....if you live on the we(s)t side of WA, you'll probably live w/out it?? Remember DON'T fall in love w/the 1st car you see....look @ a few others.

If I remember (no longer have the car ).....I pulled mine thru an access hole w/a rubber grommet under the rear left side where the pigtail connects. Dang it - I also did our RAV4 and hope I"m not confusing the two. I had about every piece of molding off the back inside of the RAV to run it. I know the OB was easier, regardless, and I know it was run to the outside, as I didn't want it getting in the way of the hatch opening/closing. Good luck!

Found this on Autozone's repair site: Position the rocker cover on the cylinder head and install the retainer bolts. Tighten the bolts .... 4 ft. lbs. (5 Nm) for 2.2L and 2.5L engines. When I did my '90 2.2L they didn't get tighter; the bolts just got tight and stopped - I couldn't turn them anymore to make 'em tighter even if I wanted; that's all the farther in they went. Yours do sound stripped, but why all 4??? That doesn't make sense. Unless, the previous owner/mechanic tightened them too much? If you pull the cover and put the bolts in w/out 'em does that give you any clues? Good luck.

Gal called in w/a 2000 Outback. About 4 times inside a year the car would get hot and a white mist would come into the cabin from under the dash; and 4 times the dealer replaced the heater core, which did fix it for a few weeks and up to 3 months one time. After the first or 2nd (?) heater core, the dealer also flushed the radiator and a white powder was discovered in the heater core (I think that's where she said), with a milky substance in the coolant. The dealer has ruled out a HG due to the lack of oily residue in the cooling system, but Click and Clack said that is still the likely culprit. They said the dealer should test for emissions/carbon-related substances again. What say U(SMB)?

Did you try resetting the computer - remove the negative battery terminal for 30 mins - ? If the light came on immediately after it came unplugged, I'd try it. That EA doesn't have a rear O2 sensor, does it? It would cause a CEL if it 'got confused' when wet. Good luck

Sounds like you got it, but another check is if your OB has the bleeder screw on the passenger side, like my '90 Legacy...If it does, open it just enough to let out either steam or coolant - air = bad; coolant=good. I fixed my air bubble by filling from the the top heater hose. Credit goes to Setright's write-up.

The OEM pulleys should be interchangeable. I have an (cheap - off ebay) underdrive pulley that I used on both a 97 OB 2.5 and a 90 Legacy 2.2.....I took it off the 2.2 as it was noisy, but seemed to help MPG on both. 2+ MPG on the 2.5.

Wheel bearings? I've heard about the rears going out and/or maybe a TSB on them?

I don't know the answer to your question, but do agree that drive by wire is still "in its infancy". In addition to our '90 Legacy AWD, we bought an '07 RAV4 w/the V6. There's plenty of power (0-60 in 7 secs.), but I have to "play nice" w/the go pedal when accelerating, as there's a definite pause before the horses decide to get onboard if I just floor it. I don't even need the second 1/2 of the pedal travel as it doesn't use it! I'm an avid reader of Consumer Reports and there have been more and more cars w/this same delay - many are VWs and Audis (which makes sense). I don't understand Why?.... Don't the Mfgs. test drive these before putting them into production? Maybe they are designed that way, but I don't understand it.....it actually makes it MORE dangerous when merging/pulling into traffic!

My Bad.. I should've given credit where it's due. There's no site that specifically stated this (that I found). But between USMB's/Legacy Central's (bbs.legacycentral.org) Legacy777, USMB's johnceggleston, Car-part.com (search on differential or carrier), ebay items, and a couple other posts here (that I can't find:mad: ) I pieced this together.

Here's what I've found out for 2.2 non-turbo 4EAT Gen 1 legacy: The tranny wil fit, but the rear diffs are different: '90-'91 = 4.11 '92-'94 = 3.90 If there is a 3.90 LSD (did they make this?) I'd change the rear otherwise I'll keep looking. Thanks

I've seen posts that it will, but Car-part.com shows '90-91 separate from '92-94 when searching. I did see where even a '95 should work. I've got a line on a 48k mile 1994 for $350 that I'd like "just in case". Any seals need replaced if it's been sitting? Thanks!

Looks like they're using Nada - see below. Try KBB RETAIL: Brighton: Condition Value Excellent $8,010 L: Condition Value Excellent $8,410 Nada: Clean Retail Value Base Price$6,225$7,925 Mileage - 188,000 miles-$1,950-$1,950 TOTAL PRICE$4,275$5,975* Good Luck! And don't give up too quick! P.S. This is for N. Idaho...should be comparable to Big Mtn area.

I'm installing OB struts on my '90 Legacy and will put on larger diameter tires, but is there a reason to go to a 15'' rim? A 205/75R14 is very close in width and height to a 205/70R15. Thanks

An easy test for air lock/air on my '90 Legacy was to get the car warmed up and open the bleeder screw/valve on the passenger side of the radiator. If steam comes out, you've got it; if coolant flows out, you don't. Look for a post by Setright to replace/fill the coolant w/the best results. Good luck and hope it's not the HG.

By Help....will it make more power?

Will a '91 Legacy Turbo intake help (fit?) my '90 Legacy EJ22? Here's the item # 140093281455 and ebay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-94-Subaru-Legacy-Turbo-intake-manifold-92-93-EJ22T_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36474QQitemZ140093281455QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Howdy, I've got a '90 Legacy. Will the newer Legacy/impreza stereos fit? I know an 04 6-CD in dash fit my 97OB.... Thanks

If you don't mind the HP loss, the '95 2.2 is a straight swap for a '97-99?. I paid $1500 for HG repair (incl. head work), resealed the engine (don't forget the tranny sep. plate) to stop other leaks, and new pulleys. Good luck

Yep, under the front passenger seat or already removed. I had this setup, but when the Changer went to heaven (actually resold on ebay), I replaced it w/an '04 Impreza 6-CD/cassette IN-DASH - fit perfectly....but lost the radio's clock.

On LegacyCentral: http://legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm Seems logical, but I wouldn't call $750 inexpensive (although it's a dealer quote). Compared to a rebuild, maybe it is.:-\

Saw a '94 Legacy Ti on Ebay and I've seen Mi's too. What are these in comparison to an L, LS, or LSI?

97 OB (HG done @ 125K), 141K, AT. Symptons: Starts fine, runs fine, but idle stays around 1100 when warm UNLESS I put in N or P for a second or 2. When shifted to N or P idle goes up to 1500, then settles down to normal warm idle ~ 700rpm with in a couple seconds.

I think I fixed it. It may have been a barely loose plug wire. I'd been in there the week before taking off an underdrive pulley (2MPG!), and bumped it....unless it just needed me to open the hood and say "boo!"