wtdash

No turbos in the US from '95-'01. This is the EJ25D engine in the '96-'99 Legacy GT, LSi, Legacy Outback, SUS, '98 Forester and Impreza RS.

I was thinking stuck parking braked due to cold, but that doesn't explain smoke???

Sold car 2 years ago. local kid bought it, hooned it, and now HG need done. :-( He texted me last month to ask what HG I used (EJ22T).

HI, I kinda went thru this exercise w/a WRX (yes, I made the mistake of buying an Auto-equipped WRX - Can you spell LAG?). I looked this up HERE. Not exactly yours, but may worth a read.

The lid for the fuses under the hood ID's the fuses. As does the cover for the fuses under the dash (for Legacy @ least.) Also,Google found this: https://www.autogenius.info/subaru-impreza-1992-1998-fuse-box-diagram/

^+1 Check fuses - if it was 'trashed' likely blew 1 or 10.

^EG33 may be longer than the EZ? Found this on here, per Emily @ CCrE: EZ30: Engine lengthEZ30 = estimated 445mm = 17.5" - but assuming this is w/OUT the crank? And a very informative EG33 site i came across.

That Subaru w/that EJ25D and w/those tires would be a 'GT' (non-turbo) in the USA. They should be fine, but MIGHT rub on the back strut spring perch. Also, your MPG and quickness (0-60) will we be negatively affected...a bit. Got any mates w/a REX (WRX)? Those should be 55's, too. Could bolt-on to test.

Manual button won't apply on the '95+ models. ......My mistake on that. I know I've got it to work on the '95-'98 models, but can't recall HOW. I had a '98 OB that I had to diagnose. I found this, too- "EndWrench" was Subaru tech support for USA mechanics (I believe). They published a bunch of articles that had inside info. Used to be a website which is no longer online, but this site 'captured' many of them: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/Files/

I'd read/try this, too: https://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html Specifically for the Gen 1 ('89-'94) Subarus, but supposedly works for Gen 2 ('95-'98) too - which are both considered Phase 1. The one you posted states it should work on Phase 1 & 2, which I find doubtful?? I didn't compare the instructions.

Just a little different option...Michelin recently released more versions / sizes of their Crossclimate - avl. thru TireRack - in the US. Top-rated by CR. They are $$ as in $$$. Wanted to put them on our '18 CR-V, but couldn't justify the $1K when I could buy a set of dedicated snow tires AND Wheels for <$400 off CL. But run 'em year-round and get 75K tread life.

Hmmm, it's been a few years, but I completely removed mine and it went back together fine. I've read that you need to 'secure' the steering wheel, but likely you've already done that step - if it really matters. Just mark an alignment point on both the shaft and u-joint for reinstall.

Yep on Automatics; 5-speeds had the metal one like on the '91-'94 turbo - thought those were incompatico.

100%>>.. '98 is only year. ...'99+ No.

'92-'98 ('99 SUS/GT/OB) 2..2 (NA) and 2.5 are all compatible....Green Label versions...AUTECS (USA) and JECS (japan).

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm we call that a MAF (mass airflow). The '92-'98/'99 green label MAF (JECS and AUTECS) are all the same on the 2.2 and 2.5 Subaru non-turbo. Not sure if the aftermarket parts are good for the MAF.

OM: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/1998/Owners Manual/ It's a '98 but '99 is very similar. FWD fuse is under the hood by the passenger side strut tower.

Gotcha...Duty-C isn't 'smart'...it just varies its amount of engagement on input from TCU, and reports back...If it's not reporting back =AT Temp light flash

If you check the FWD fuse and it's mechanical, I'd spend the $$ on 2-3 gallons of ATF (and I noted your ATF looks good): .....and then go drive it in figure 8's in a parking lot - and not the interstate :-). Sometimes it'll free it up...yes, it worked for me. Your car has obviously sat a lot w/those low miles, so may just need some new ATF and some drive-time. Also, I DO NOT recommend it being power or chemically flushed by a shop as it can cause issues w/the seals in an older trans...I lost Reverse...yes, yes, I did...and had to have it rebuilt. :-(

Maybe I missed it and GD is (very) Likely correct, but the flashing AT light tells you there is a code stored in the TCU (trans computer), which is separate from the ECU. SEARCH on here/online to find out how to retrieve the actual code...also called a 'handshake'. Use the FWD fuse under the hood - you read the Owner's Manual, right ?? - to determine if it's mechanical (clutch pack(s)) or eletronic (Duty C). If the TB/torque bind goes away w/the FWD fuse IN it's the clutch packs.....you can guess the other option. :-) GL, TD p.s. you ran an Autocheck or Carfax to confirm those extremely low 46K miles?

I probably suggest this too often: CTS - coolant temp sensor. Remember - on yours there is the single wire for the gauge and next to it is the actual sensor to the ECU....you want the latter.

Yes, But, Do Not Buy. Those are cheap for a reason...they're cheap. And the 5 5-star reviews all read like some ONE (person) used Google translate for us gullible Americans. You'd be better served to buy a set of WRX '02-'07 struts and 'ghetto' the rear mount holes to fit them (you'll need to enlarge 2 about 1/4-1/2").

Phase 1 vs Phase 2

I 'think' that the '99 had the issues w/the cluster wiring - surface solder joints get disconnected w/age. Read this...https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1785548. some of it may be relevant. I'd bet if you fix the P0500, the others go away.