Myxalplyx

Dang! Any shinier and I could see my reflection on the internet. They blingin yo!

*In Hannibal Lecter voice from Silence of the Lambs* So tell me Clarice, was it this boost controller that was the cause of the overboost? If it is, I ran into the same problem. I actually plan on putting it back on. Very, VERY picky this boost controller is. <--Yoda

Whatever works. I'm only concerned about safe cylinder temps, decent drivability, reliability and for everything to work consistantly in all weather and types of racing. If this bandaid can do this, I'm in.

Call me a pessimist but the 2nd gray RX in the pics above doesn't look to exciting. The 1st one looks ok. It's a different kind of gray or the lighting of the pic makes it look different. The white colored RXs we got in the states with the white rims looks nice.

Search in the Older Generation of Subarus Forum for the word 'dyno' in the title. You should come up with some useful information from a guy named Will or 'WJM' as well as others. Also, type in '1987 RX Turbo at the drags last night ' in the search title in the same forum. There is a guy with an interestnig solution to adding extra fuel that's needed when the boost is turned up.

This is exactly the kind of device us folks need with the maf voltage controlled fuel cut. We can use this with the extra fuel injector and a HKS fuel cut defenser to get the results we need. Now to shop for an extra injector along with this Hobbs device.

How do you do it if your crank pulley doesn't have a 'nick' in it to show the timing light what the timing is? I'm talking about for the automatic as well as the manual trannied cars. I notice on the automatic XT6s, the Flexplate only goes up to about 28 degrees advanced. I think the crank pulley timing marks can go higher so this is what I need to use. Can I mark the crank pulley with some type of magic marker so the timing light will pick up on it?

How did it go? Did you turn down the timing a bit? Follow the advice of the posts earlier in this thread. You want to turn down the timing slightly. Turning up the timing does make for extra power on premium grade gas though.

Perhaps slightly higher octane gas will help.

Lean AND Hot Isn't this the way we like them though? Oops! Wrong forum. On a more serious note, it does look to be 'too light'. As was mentioned, they should be golden brown in color. If you were not experiencing detonation, change to 1 step colder plug. If you were experiencing detonation, change to a gas octane one step higher than what you previously ran. Also, you should reduce your timing to stock before doing either of the above. I'm sure you may be able to get away with timing advanced a little but stock timing is 20 degrees. It is worth a try. If you are in Sacramento, CA and the weather.com page is reading right, it's pretty hot there these days.

Listen to this man! He may as well been one of the engineers for the XT6. He's helped me countless number of times and continue too. He is one of the reasons why I keep my XT6s.

Power corrupts!

I suggest when you complete this project and you get bored with it, to contact me via PM on info about shipping it to the US...to me. Yes, it's a silly idea. I'm a silly guy who likes silly toys so I'll happily reply to a PM once you are finished.

No! It's running fine so you have nothing to worry about. That simple!

Manny, I have no idea on the 1/4 mile time. I plan on bracket racing it at the dragstrip, probably this weekend. Will find out then. As for manual AWDs on the dyno, I have no idea. I haven't been able to find data of anyone else dynoing their XT6.

Wow! No comments? :-\

Car: 1989 2.7ltr Subaru XT6 (AWD/Autotranny) Mods: JC Sports Intake, ProECM Pulley, Custom-made Rallispec Header, 2.5" aftermarket cat and exhaust, 2.5" Dynomax Ultraflow SS muffler. Extras: Using 93 Octane today and bumped up ignition timing Car nickname: Redrum Took the XT6 to the dynoshop today to see how ignition timing affects horsepower and torque. I'll be posting a few dyno plots to show what you can expect. Since this car is an auto, I always dyno from the bottom of first gear all the way to the top of 3rd gear. This is to simulate full throttle runs like on a dragstrip to get real world numbers. Also, I dyno the XT6 in FWD mode. I did this previously because my tranny was bad and it would not shift into the next gear in AWD. Plus all the wheels would not move at the same time. Now that the tranny is fixed, I try to stay consistant with dynoing in FWD mode. Drivetrain losses in FWD mode is still 33%. Also, for some reason the car would not stay in gear that long as it used to do. It shifts a little earlier coming out of 3rd gear. Before it shifted post 6000rpm but today it was earlier. I do not know why as the 'Power' mode light did come on. Perhaps I haven't driven it around enough to learn the new settings of the ECU. Oh well! The first dyno plot is comparing HP figures of 20 degree timing (stock/base timing ) vs a ignition timing brought up to about 26-27 degrees. I had to use the Flexplate since my pulley does not have a 'nick' in it for me to see timing with while using a timing light. This plot shows a hp increase in all gears that seem pretty even throughout. Look at the point I chose on the dyno chart. At base timing, I made 117.24hp while with ignition timing at about 26-27 degrees the car made 124.20hp. About a 7hp increase. The next dyno graph is a torque comparison of the base 20 degree timing vs 26-27 degrees of timing advance (on 93 octane). The point I chose to show an example is in 3rd gear. Stock 20 degree timing shows 118.61lb-ft of torque while the 26-27 degree run shows 125.38lb-ft. 6.77lbs of torque gained. Not too bad! These next plot sbelow show where the car is at now vs when it was completely stock. Note, I did runs with and without the Rallispec header installed and they were pretty much the same. So to simulate the gains I'm showing below, all you should need to do is install an intake, exhaust (2.25" or 2.5") and bump up your ignition about 6-7 degrees. Putting the ignition up further showed not difference in hp or torque. I bumped it up once to around 32 degrees base. Stock at the example point I chose was 107.14hp. Now it is 124.14hp. Stock torque at the point I picked was 105.23lb-ft Now it is 121.86lb-ft I didn't choose peak hp/torque because my shifts from 1st-2nd gear and 2nd-3rd gear throws the reading off. This is why I show the whole graph. If I had a manual tranny, I could show the gain as a whole in 3rd gear but I don't have one so.....

The green connectors in the trunk (of an XT6 anyways).

Myx is bored as well too. Join the crowd. I've been sleeping as far as mods with the RX turbo goes. I know what I must do. I've been hopping and skipping aroudn betwen the rides. I just installed a Borla header on the 2.2ltr Outback Sport and want to dyno it.....but it has a nasty exhaust leak. Hrrmmm Then the RX is handicapped by not being able to up the boost because of the Maf voltage and the fact that upping the boost is suicide since my fueling is on the ragged edge as it sits. I have an HKS fuel cut defenser but it's pointless until I get that extra injector installed or slightly larger ones. As for the XT6s, one (Nightrider) is just sitting on the side. No point modding that one after testing it with nitrous. The engine is a little weaker than it should be so I'm not all that enthusiastic about it. Now Redrum (AWD, XT6) just came out of the tranny shop. Feels great now that it shifts right. Simple mods have gained up to 20hp before the tranny upgrade. If the dyno shop is open tomorrow, I'm heading up to play with ignition timing and see what can be gained with that. If I can gain another 8-10hp with that, it will be a total of 30hp gained with intake, exhaust, pulley and ignition advanced. I'm going to be to laughing at those 2.5RS peeps. Here's where I was at last before the tranny rebuild. So maybe tomorrow I can give something refreshing to look at. I want to be reading about someone elses old school skooby running 14s, 13s, 12s or some really cool dyno numbers. So I sit and wait and watch.

Will, Please post up pics of your setup when you are done. The main challenge I read about this type of setup (where you have the intercooler inlet facing the firewall) is the turbo to intercooler piping. Yes, of course you can pipe to it. It is just that people have told me that with that setup, the inlet is facing the wrong way. I was always told it would be much better to make it face the passenger side or the front of the car based on how our turbos sit. What's you take on this? I still have my air/water intercooler setup in the garage that I posted about a while back before installing my air/air unit. Here's my air/water on the right hand side.

When you are standing in front of the car facing the engine, the engine layout is as follows. Cylinders: #3 #4 #1 #2 > < <-----You

Could you share with us what cylinder you found the 60 and 90 in? Was it #3 cylinder that was 60 and #1 being 90? I'm curious!

Does anyone have a 'scrap' intercooler they can send me? I'll pay for shipping. I'll test it out on my Impreza to see if there are any gains or loses with one installed. I'll even have a fan on top of it. Lol! I understand the 'theory' behind it and thay it there really shouldn't be any gains....if anything a loss. However, I'm one to test things out, just to see what happens. You never know when you could stumble some part of physics that someone overlooked (Like the intercooler acting as an engine resonance muffler somehow). Bah! U could always test it out....just to see what it does. Again, it could very well be a waste of time but if you enjoy these types of things and testing things out (like me), something interesting always seem to come out of it.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23028&highlight=Curb+Weights