Myxalplyx

Well, I drove around the neighborhood tonight so I could take my spark plugs out. 2 of them just 'clicked, clicked, clicked' when trying to take it out while the engine is cold (Don't do this. I wouldn't recommend it anyways). Anyway, I took the spark plugs out and got a good look at them. #1 spark plug was kind of dark but not sooty. Looked like it burned well but just a tad rich, #2 spark plug was the same as #1, #3 spark plug had some hard/greenish looking crap on the end of it. The tip of the spark plug wasn't perfectly angled/squared like the other ones. It had the figure like a burnt match of sorts. It was kind of rounded, #4 spark plug was a perfect light brown color. It burnt clean and good. #3 cylinder always have seemed to plague Subarus for various reasons (Sometimes #4). I have plans for more fuel. I never heard any detonation/pinging and the car ran great, even with the #3 spark plug looking crappy. My camera couldn't capture the detail so no pic. Those of you that noticed similar/bad/strange things on your spark plug on #3 cylinder, what are your thoughts on this?

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Yeah that was stupid. Since I'm stupid, I don't know so I guess that evens it out. J/K If they are firmer bushings than your stock bushings you ar replacing, then you will feel MORE vibration from the road. The bright side of this is your car's response to your input (steering, turning, etc) should be quicker and give you more feedback. If they are factory type softness, than you should feel less vibration from the road IF the bushing(s) you replace are worn/bad. You should still experience a quicker response in the way your car handles than the worn/bad bushings you replace.

*sigh* I'm starting to feel like an idiot. I play with car some 15 minutes or so every other day because I'm working like a pig for an upcoming project. So there's little time to work on the RX. Today, I was just trying to locate the fuel pressure regulator. I thought I found it previously but.......I was wrong. You see, one of the pics I provided above is the EGR as DoItSideways stated. The other two pictures I provided is not the fuel pressure regulator. The piece I'm pointing at in the two pics is just to the right of the EGR. This this is connected downstream of the fuel filter. It's called a 'Damper'. What is strange is that my Factory Service Manual (FSM) doesn't show the 'fuel damper' downstream of the fuel filter on the MPFI turbo'd cars. It shows the fuel damper downstream of thefuel filter on the SPFI RXs. On an SPFI car, this damper then connects to the fuel pressure regulator which then goes to the fuel injectors. On an MPFI turbo car, the fuel filter goes through a fuel delivery line right to the fuel injectors. The FPR is connected somewhere else between the left and right sides of the fuel injectors. I'm stumped! SPFI = Fuel Filter ->Fuel Damper ->Fuel Injectors MPFI Turbo = Fuel Filter ->Fuel Delivery Line ->Fuel Injectors My RX Turbo = Fuel Filter -> Fuel Damper -> Fuel Injectors I can not find the fuel pressure regulator to save my life. Teh Newb! I have a 1987 FSM but my car is a 1988 RX turbo so maybe that explains some things. Besides the diagram in the FSM, nowhere else in the FSM is there any mention or picture of the FPR. So I can't determine where it's at on the car. So I am seeking higher wisdom from the higher ups here. Can you tell me where I can physically find the FPR (or what it's next to), so I can install my RRFPR? Yes, I'm slow so please forgive me. Thanks!

Wow! This is excellent Will. Hopefully, some people will jump on this opportunity.

Nope! Who recommended this? Not DeltaCams for older scoobies. Here's what I said in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11592&page=2&pp=10&highlight=DeltaCams Here's what DeltaCams had to say:

http://www.ihi.com http://i-h-i.com/ :-\ Welp.....what does 'I' 'H' 'I' mean? You gotta be specific for the peeps. Ishikawajima-Harima Heavy Industries Company Information: I H I Turbo America W. Rte. 16, R.R. 4, Box 36 Shelbyville, Illinois Country: United States Zip: 62565 Phone: 217-774-9571 Fax: 217-774-3834 Contact: Bruce Renton Email : Now for confusion! Hey Arch, aren't some of the stock turbos VF7s and such? I'm a newb to this stuff so no bashing. :cool:

Paul, You just disappeared from the XT6 board. I didn't bother to call you since I figured you were busy with business ventures. Sorry, I have nothing constructive to add to this thread. I just wanted to say I'm glad to see that you are ok and you are still around. Started to think something had happened to you. I never bothered to go back up to Vac Motorsports to see how things were going. Lemme know when you are 'tired' of your XT6. I'll get a hole cut in that hood in a jiffy. BTW: Let me know when you are ready to race XT6 for XT6. Edit: I just thought of something. Here in Delaware, I'm not allowed to have the hood go 3" over stock. So a 6" hood would have my (your) car fail inspection. Nevermind!

I started going by the 30% drivetrain loss like Will mentioned. When my car was stock, I had gotten about 78hp/95lb-ft of torque to the wheels on the dyno. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24534&highlight=dyno A stock RX turbo makes about 115hp and 134lb-ft of torque to the crank stock. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/specyears.html If you were to take away 30% of each of the stock hp/torque numbers to represent hp/torque loss through the drivetrain, you'd get 80.5hp and 94.5lb-ft of torque supposedly getting to the wheels. Those numbers are pretty close to the dyno numbers. Seems like a pretty good guesstimate. Just remember every car that rolls off the factory line aren't exactly 115hp/134lbs-ft of torque, especially being turbo'd. Also, more variables come in to play because our cars are so old. Despite all of this, the numbers are still pretty close which is good. Let's see! You know that if you had 100hp and you had 30% loss of hp through your drivetrain, you should have 70hp to the wheels. Now, if you took 70hp/.70, it would equal 100hp. If you take 70hpX1.3, it would equal 91hp. Makes sense now?

Hrrm, ok cool! I just thought that Subarus typically rung between 1450-1550F stock. I know my Outback Sport did, whether it was turbo'd or N/A. 1550F was when it was pretty hot and humid outside during the summer. That's why I mentioned what I did about 1300F. Good luck! It looks nice though.

He sure did! That's why I was specific with my question in asking---> Not that you couldn't drive around daily with his setup but he said it drove like crap. Will pointed out what I wanted to know somewhat. Will says they are a direct fit. Bingo! What's confusing is that he said it drove like crap until the ECU got used to them. What do you mean by this? Did the ECU get used to them idle wise and driving wise and all was fine or did it have to get used to it every time the car was started and warmed up? When the ECU got used to it, did it still drive somewhat crappy, drive similar to the stock injectors or better? Sorry if I'm sounding 'anal' but I'm sure these details some peeps want to know. If they don't, I do. I'm the type who won't sit on something like this and will get it in a heartbeat. So I have to be sure what to expect (or think I know what to expect). Thanks for your input Will.

Good thread except for one thing............................. Has anyone installed a Nissan fuel injector on their EA82T and if so, exactly which one? I don't want to be the fool who purchase one and then someone says, "Oh yeah, that one doesn't fit because (insert reason). You'll have to do (enter mods here) and it MIGHT work". I've been down that road a few times throughout the years. Which fuel injector(s) have been installed on an EA82T and can be daily driven on while at the same time provide more fuel? Thanks!

1300 degrees celsius right? If it's Fahrenheit, there's going to be trouble.

When are you going to the track? What 1/4 mile time(s) are you expecting? What about trap speed?

For Realz!

I understand fully! Thank you Skip and DoItSideways. I was concerned that putting the aftermarket RRFPR downstream of the stock unit could somehow damage the stock unit making it malfunction, even seize up or something. Sometimes I may get carried away with questions and trying to be careful with the simplest of things. I'm learning though. I'll tinker with it over the weekend. Thanks again! *I'll be back later with fuel injector questions no doubt* I'm going to have to remove them at some point to send out. Tune up the car and get some more numbers with more boost.

Yeah, I like those alot as well. I really enjoyed seeing the videos of Gus Mahon (may he rest in peace) and other turbominivan owners tearing it up. If you want advice on turboing that minivan and how to go about it, talk to...ready for this?.......'TurboMinivan' at NASIOC. He owns a Forester XT now also. I can't remember if he went any further with is mods on the XT but I remember sending him PM's about his turbo'd minivan a while back. L8Rs...

Wow! Todd, that looks very nice. Should be nice for turbo spoolup as well. Way to go! Wish I had this done before installation to help protect my power steering lines and the oil pan. Ah well! I don't know how long I'm going to keep this car anyhow. :cool:

I need to meet more of your friends. I LIVE for this stuff. Will, I used to be degraded in my Outback Sport and I even degraded it myself. Things just happened to enable it to get faster and faster. What fun that was. This is the reason why I went to the older scoobies in the first place. To hear the laughs and ridicule. I'm working towards the day I can film my RX (or XT6s) whoop up on a WRX, EVO, STi, SRT4, Cobra (Take your pick) at the track and I have some videos up of it. I'm slowly working towards it. It should make for some good comedy relief. I can't wait! Hopefully it happens. "Never look for respect. Let it come to you, then take it." Kevin Thomas (Myxalplyx)-USMB 2-11-05

This is the reason why. I had previously asked this in another thread: From this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30186&page=1 No-one else said anything different so I took it that I needed to remove the stock FPR and put the rising rate on in place of it.

Simple fact of the matter is, I don't know how. All I see are a bunch of vacuum hoses, some screws/bolts and hard lines. I remove this one main bolt on top of the fpr but besides that, it won't budge. I can see the manifold vacuum hose, fuel inlet (from fuel filter, which hard wires through the top of the fpr) and the fuel return. I just can't seem to remove the fpr itself. Can someone offer the newbie some advice on doing this? Thanks! I hate you! I removed this at first thinking it was the fpr. Oops! Looks like it's some type of recirculation from maybe the exhaust port or something. I dunno! The hard pipe on it went down and under the car. I didn't bother to see where. I'm just going to hook it back up once I figure out this fpr removal thing.

Awe man, this is good information. Now I know where I'll be getting my radiator from. My current radiator turns to fine dust when you press on it.

Nice! At least some people got a part# or two so they can try this themselves. Good thing you didn't go out and get one of those 'ghetto' air filters. They aren't as good as a K&N (well some of them anyways). The ones with the 'pantyhose wire' filter makes more power but they don't filter anything smaller than dirt.

Thank you! This is EXACTLY what I needed to know before sending my injectors off to RC Engineering. I was planning on doing this very soon. May as well get starts ASAP. Big Mucho thanks!