Myxalplyx

They list a radiator for a manual trannied RX for $138.88. What I don't see is if it's for an RX or RX turbo. Are they one in the same? Is this a good price for a radiator? I'm trying to keep everything in tip top shape and cool before cranking up the boost more. Thanks! Edit: ThePartsbin lists a heavy duty radiator for the RX turbo for $136.92. Subaruparts.com list one for: $255.23 (Part# 45181GA651) Thepartsbin and my parts book lists warnings about the radiator and fitment with aftermarket or dealer installed A/C units. What gives?

Congrats on your build up. I hope it really rips. Do you mind sharing with us the details on the fuel pump and reworked injectors? I'm talking about model/part# of walbro fuel pump, where to get it, part# of RC injectors, injector flow rate and how it fits. Thanks!

Patrick, my guess would be 'Yes'. If you were to upgrade your fuel injectors from 180ccs to 450ccs, you would have a really bad idle, if any idle at all. The 450cc injectors flow 250% more than the 180cc injectors. No good for stock ECU. On the otherhand, I encourage you to try them out. First hand experience is a learning experience. Good luck!

Nice knowing you! Your knowledge of the RX will be missed. Hey, weren't you the guy arguing with me about never getting any 1/4 mile times on that ultimate RX? I hate you!

Man, I really like that 1st pic. Looks like it'll be my desktop pic for a while now. Thanks!

Dagnabit! I call Radio Shack but there's nothing on the box the thermometer comes in that states what temps are safe to use this product in. I'd guess because they wouldn't expect you to put it in an oven or freezer or something. Ahh...it seemed cheap and cool so I was willing to try it out.

Hello guys, I was looking for a voltmeter of sorts to hook up to the 02 sensor to monitor air/fuel ratio (Yes, I'm nuts). Browsing around at the Radio Shack site, I came across this: http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=63-1039 It's only $15.00 and it can monitor two types of temperatures. Since it can monitor two temps, I'm assuming there are two probes. Only issue is to how much heat these things can take. I wouldn't think it's overbuilt to the point it can take 250F temps but you never know. I'm doubting it but just in case it can withstand sub 300F temps (the probe), couldn't something like this be used to monitor before and after intercooler temperature? "This handy thermometer displays the temperature both inside and outside your vehicle in large digital numbers, making it easy to read at a glance as you cruise down the road. Plus, the built-in voltmeter lets you quickly see if your battery or charging system is working improperly, so you can fix any problem before it has time to become serious and possibly leave you stranded. As an added security feature, the Ice Alert function notifies you with light and sound if the temperature outside is cold enough to produce icy roads and hazardous driving conditions." What do you think?

Patrick, No biggie! Your thoughts aren't thread jacking. It's just the kind of info that's useful actually. You jacked it up to 42psi base fuel psi from what? I don't know what the base fuel psi is (I should've looked in the FSM when I was home). If that fuel pressure regulator on Ebay is just fine and it's adjustable from 1:1 to higher like 2:1 or 3:1, then I'll take a swing at it. I appreciate all the help.

Gary, this is what I was getting at. I wanted to get one that doesn't adjust the base pressure BUT you can adjust the ratio of increase you where you want it to (1:1, 2:1, 3:1). I don't want to adjust the stock fuel pressure as around town driving is just fine. I just want to adjust the rate of increase of fuel pressure based on how much boost I'm running. So, when I test it out, if 2:1 isn't enough, I can adjust to 3:1......test......not enough.......4:1. The one I posted about above doesn't seem clear as to if it's just a 1:1 fpr or adjustable. The words interchange throughout the ad. I emailed/PMd the seller.

Can someone tell me if this would work on an EA82T? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7951680750&category=33553&sspagename=WDVW If I can use this, is this to be put in upstream (before), downstream (after) or in place of the stock fuel pressure regulator.

Oh....I know it's easy. I just wanted to see/read about the show and their results. I'd mainly be interested in an average Joe's result at the track or dyno.

I know! I've bee reading about this over and over again. This is beyond me though. I understand how an SAFC or extra injector works. I'd need one or two people I could depend on to get the Megasquirt going and have it operating correctly in ALL conditions (cold, hot, humidity, partial boost/high load *Hill/4 people*, idle). I know some peeps have gotten it to work like OddComp. I'm just not fluent in that kind of stuff. Once I grasp it, I feel I'd be a little expert with it because I'd delve until I can't learn anymore with it. It's just the getting started part. MegaSquirt installers and tuners are needed. It's not that simple! Has anyone installed this on their RX turbo and have been driving it around as a daily driver? I'll get to reading more on that Megasquirt thread to catch up. An additional fuel injector and controller seems interesting. I know ProECM sells such a product. http://www.proecm.com/Fuel_M1.htm Dave there was trying to sell me that back when I was playing with one of the XT6s. Anyone here tried this? What Gravityman points out seems similar to this.

What show was this on? I'm looking for dyno pull info about this product.

I made a mistake with the trap speed I posted. The average improvement is not by 6.6 seconds but by 6.6mph. My apologies!

Hello Manny, I posted about this earlier in the thread. I'm happy with the results.

Thanks Tex! I'm REALLY concerned about fuel. Seems like the more things that are getting done, the car is running leaner and leaner. I would like to run a 12.0:1 air/fuel ratio or thereabouts to be safe. I'm trying to follow the trend of the WRXs and how they tune. For a turbocharged car, running 13.0:1+ is a big no-no. I'm not saying my car represents all the rest of the EA82Ts (or EA81Ts) but this is something of big concern to me. I'm going to send my fuel injectors out to RC Engineering and see if they can get me some larger fuel injectors. Whatever our stock fuel injectors are, I'd like to get some that are between 40%-50% bigger. From there, I'll get a RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator) and an SAFC. If I could get the SAFC installed properly, I feel I can tune it along with a RRFPR to exactly where I want it to be. An EGT and fuel pressure gauge is a must also. I'm not touching the boost until then. As a matter of fact, I'm considering turning it back down for a bit. These air/fuel ratios are ridiculous. I'm hoping Will (WJM) may put up some air/fuel ratio charts of his runs so we can take a look at them as well. I've been going back to that thread but haven't seen anything. Perhaps this is just something on my car. Have fun boosting! I hope folks are keeping an eye on their air/fuel ratios when they are cranking up the boost, especially in the 12-14psi range (non-intercooled). Something to think about.

Cool Videos! Thanks for posting them.

The bottom-side of my RX's frame rails is looking bad. I dunno. I'll get a couple of cans of rustoleum and see how it goes.

Well, if the boost to wastegate line had a leak in it, wouldn't it make the wastegate actuator go back and forth. It would be letting air escape to the exhaust then go back through the turbo. Just a thought!

I'm thinking that you are just feeling the transition from off turbo to turbo spooling up to full boost.

As far as my fuel, clutch and tranny will take me. As for the hp and torque, I should be losing 30% through the drivetrain. 30% through the drivetrain gave me 113hp and 136lb-ft of torque at the crank according to the stock dyno numbers. This pairs favorably to our 115hp/135lb-ft of torque stock according to Subaru. Using 30% drivetrain losses and the TechWorks dyno numbers of 113.40whp and 121.66lb-ft of torque, power numbers at the crank should be around 162hp and 173.8lb-ft of torque. Right there with a stock 2.5RS. In this case, power gains would be 49hp and 37.8lb-ft of torque at the crank, at stock like boost. I guess it all adds up to how you want to read the dyno chart. I forgot to mention something interesting. Even though the header diameter is larger, the turbo is larger and the intercooler a decent size, nowhere in the dyno chart is there evidence of turbo lag. I was happy to see this and did not expect it. Also, like many of you have said previously, it looks like the exhaust eliminated the severe power drop-off after 5500rpm. I can't tell you how happy I am to be able to rev to 6500rpm now.

More pics of RX at Dyno shop! Note, an intercooler fan was used this time.

Hello All, Car: 1988 RX Turbo (Manual/FT4WD) Mods: 'Stock' Autozone Cone Filter Mods: Now K&N Cone Filter Garner Pulley Techworks Header GT17 Ball Bearing Turbocharger Techworks Downpipe 2.5" Cat, 2.5" Custom exhaust, 2.5" Flowmaster Ebay Manual Boost Controller I did 3 runs only. No tuning! Boost was set at 9-10psi. Stock boost was between 8-9psi. Here is a dyno chart of the 3 runs I did. This next dyno chart is a comparison of my stock baseline horsepower run vs the TechWorks run I did today. A gain of 34.16hp around the same boost psi. Not bad! Now lets take a look at the torque graph. A gain of 26.47lb-ft of torque at about the same boost pressure. After I get a RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator), an EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) gauge, a fuel pressure gauge and my fuel injectors cleaned, it's time to up the boost. Better have an extra clutch and flywheel ready. More pics to follow of car in shop. Enjoy!

Thank you Patrick! I have mine installed. I was playing with boost around the neighborhood. I have it hooked up similar (I think) to what you were saying). Vacuum boost reference nipple to MBC inlet. MBC outlet to that pressure sensor on shock tower. Pressure sensor to the Wastegate It seems to work really well. Really, really sensitive. Between turning the knob from a '9' position to a '12' position will make the boost jump up to 17-18psi or so. I have it set between 9-10psi. I'm going to leave it here so I can some dyno runs in. Today is 'Dyno day' at the dyno shop which means tons of people are up there. On top of this, I my wife wants to go to the mall......NOW. Furthermore, I have to go to work in 4 hours. But I'm still going to try to get my 3 runs in. Even still, it'll be so busy, I don't know when my runs will emailed to me. Uggghhhh! I gotta think of something. I'm out! Oh yeah! I misplaced my digital camera so I couldn't take pics earlier. I'll post up so peeps can see. I'm learning a lot. Thanks guys!

What if you are a person who's not so experienced at adjusting your suspension settings? Is there an off the shelf setting you can get? Thanks!