Myxalplyx

I just read about two more people receiving their header/uppipe and downpipe combo. Anyone else receive theirs and maybe install it yet? I'm waiting on one more part (An intake clamp for a Saab) to come in before completing my install.

Man, but this downpipe is great. http://www.subspeed.com/Downpipe.htm Factory bolt-on, O2 sensor ready and it uses the stock mounting points to screw on. Nicey!

Wow! That sight is back up huh? Nice! Now I can do some more research about his RX turbo project that I read about 100X before, when I didn't even have an RX. I just liked reading it before. Now I can use it. http://www.subspeed.com/Rx.htm

Nice point Gary! If our fuel system is optimum though, why did my air/fuel ratio change from an optimum 12.0:1 air/fuel ratio to a 13.0:1 between dyno runs? It even went up to 14.0:1 and all I had done was a pulley install. Perhaps playing with the maf sensor screw could've 'Garnered' better results.

Why stop there? The EA81 is damn near EA82s and XT6s right? Go back to the Subaru 360 or 1600s. Now THAT'S old school.

Why am I doing this-->

I never knew this! Now I know how to 'shift-on-the-fly'. Ha!

Brian, You RX looks great with the new shoes on. I've been pondering whether to go to a larger size. I have the 185/70R13s you speak of. The highway driving does get a little nervous at high speeds. I wasn't sure if it was just the width of the tread (thinking 205s would be better), the wheel size of 13 or both. It's interesting that you'd mention this. Makes me wonder!

I've never had an engine fail using a K&N air filter. I have 5 cars with K&N air filters on them. I never noticed any power loss or loss in performance attributed to dirt getting in. I've had my Outback Sport going on 8 years now and it's running stronger than ever (2nd engine though...my bad..hehe). Even still, no problems because of the filters letting in too much dirt or because of restriction. I'm going to read up more on that site. I can't understand how something that is dirtier be less restrictive. I mean, how can air flow through more dirt/debris easier? Time to read! *Edit* Looks like we have to do our own independant test to know for sure. "However, if a filter is using "better airflow" as their marketing tool, remember this....Does it flow better? At very high airflow volumes, probably. BUT, Our trucks CAN'T flow that much air unless super-modified, so what is the point? The stock filter will flow MORE THAN ENOUGH AIR to give you ALL THE HORSEPOWER the engine has to give. And this remains true until the filter is dirty enough to trip the air filter life indicator. At that point performance will decline somewhat. Replace the filter and get on with it." I don't understand this point. If the Delco unit flows better than type 'B' air filter, why would type 'B' air filter flow better at high airflow volumes? What is considered 'high airflow volumes'?

I would say it's a toss up between two vehicles. Pick a late model RX turbo with FT4WD and manual tranny or Pick a manual tranny AWD XT6. The RX turbo from my understanding has a rally heritage and a good suspension. The XT6 however was the FASTEST SUBARU IN THE 80's ERA hands down. Although the XT6 is maybe 200-400lbs heavier than an RX turbo (depending on the year), it has gobs more torque and hp than the RX Turbo stock for stock. How do I know...well.....I dyno tested them of course. My 1989 AUTO AWD XT6 vs my 1988 Manual trannied RX Turbo. Both are stock in these dynos. Look at what you start off with from scratch. 34hp more And just over 40lb-ft more torque. This is an automatic XT6 mind you. For rallying, a manual will have more hp/torque stock with more N/A torque low down in those revs that'll get you up and going in a hurry. No waiting for a turbo to spool up. No praying for that little bit of hp/torque to your wheels to keep you ahead of your competition. I'd be willing to bet that an AWD XT6 will hand a FT4WD RX turbo it's booty all day long stock for stock. Subiesport, I'll go one up and say that if you want an auto/AWD XT6 to rally, I'd be willing to let you folks drive mine for as long as your project merits. It has an intake/exhaust and pulley on it (for an extra 20hp and 19lb-ft of torque throughtout the powerband). I still have the stock pulley and intake if you need it. The tranny needs some elbow grease (it's a little slow). I'll provide a tranny cooler to help keep things cool. I have a SmallCar shift kit in the garage. Put those things on and have fun with it. Just make sure it's drivable when you return it, whenever you folks are finished with it. I have 4 other cars to drive. If you are interested, PM me. Also, if you guys want to get a little wild with the project, I have various turbo parts you could use as well as nitrous (Zex or NOS) on two other Subarus that you could use. I also have an extra set of cams you can modify to your choosing. All this for free and no hunting. :-p Have fun!

What makes you say that it might not work?

Heck, the auto couldn't handle the 3.3's power. I know it could if it was properly cooled (via tranny cooler) but factory stock, it wasn't the case. Put a shift kit and tranny cooler on that baby and the skies the limit. Actually, a shift kit and tranny cooler seems like it would be the ticket on most autos.

Oops! I meant Friday (the 21st). Oh well!

I'm expecting a gain since your setup was poorly put together.

Correction! It may be cheaper if you know what you are doing. Me working w ith MS&EDIS would be like asking a 3yr old to swap your cams for you. I feel like an expert with piggybacks though (controlling them anyways).

Man that sucks! Tomorrow is your birthday. It'll be a new beginning. Can't wait to hear about the results.

Quotes! Unfortunately, I typed in that part# at the Autozone website and an adapter didn't come up. :-\

Well, I just found out today that the clamp I need to connect the intake piece is a factory only part. I need to stop at a Saab dealership and order it. The part name is 'Clamp HOS' and its part# is 30566014 with some additional numbers that may be 034070. I'll be off to order this part from some local Saab dealership tomorrow. Meanwhile, I need to take my strut brace back apart due to me forgetting to install the O2 sensor. Oops! No biggie! *tomorrow* Last but not least, finished getting those rubber hoses together. Then I can fire it up and hope no oil, coolant or exhaust gas leaks out of the hundred clamps I have now.

I've never gotten a 'Yes' to a question like this. It was always the, 'If it doesn't fit, you can simply drill a hole into it to make it fit'. Or you may here the 'this will fit' until you get it then it'll be 'Oh, I heard from a friend of mine that it was a direct fit'. Good luck bud! The one in the picture you posted looks to be darn close. You may as well purchase a drill and some bits and become friends with it. I always swayed away from trying to modifying anything to make it fit. I have a drill now so I wouuldn't hesitate. If you find one that definitely fits without ANY modification, please post up. L8Rs

Hey Austin, I'm right there with you on this one bud.

Will is going down and he knows it. Look, he's shaking in his boots now. His days are numbered. I can see the fuel cut dilemma bothering me so much that I end feeling like selling the car. It'll be interesting to see how things turn out.

Yes, they help. Thanks! I 'stole' the circled pics from another thread in which I took this pic and someone modified it to help me...yet again. And I know better to label/mark rubber hoses. I just went about tearing at stuff like a moron. Oops!

Use the circles as a guide. I need to know where the two hoses on the bottom right-hand side of the blue circle plug into. I also need to know where the two rubber hoses on the right side of the green circle (at 3:00 position) plug into. Here's my situation below: The car will almost be drivable after figuring this out. I need to fix an intake piece as well.

I never took into consideration your name is 'A Dog'. The irony!

That RX is BEAUTIFUL! It looks like the cooling system is taking a hit though with the lights obstructing airflow.