Myxalplyx

Man, that muffler screams 'look at me'. Not sure if I want anyone noticing my muffler like that. It look ok though. Kinda reminds me of a dog when its....ah nevermind.

Hrrmm, I think the price for my header/uppipe and downpipe just went up in price another 50%. Thanks!

So does anyone want to theorize why the power hump is there after the installation of an intercooler (in the 2400rpm to 3500rpm or so)? This is the 2nd time I've seen this jump in hp/torque in that range. Also, since it jumps that high, why isn't that horsepower/torque maintained? It just drops off just as suddenly as it came in, then it tapers off slowly.

15psi on a 93 Loyale Wagon, running 15.3s in the 1/4 mile? Nice! Can anyone tell me the curb weight of a manual trannied 1993 Loyal Wagon? I'm just curious! Edit: Nevermind, I found it. "WEIGHT (lbs)- curb weight: AWD Wagon - 2,635, AWD sedan - manual 2,490, auto 2,510 Front wheel drive: Wagon manual 2,490, auto 2,510, Sedan - manual 2,355, auto 2,395" From: http://www.cars101.com/oldsubaru.html#1992%20Loyale Looks like the car is trailered.

I like the wheels on this: Seems like they'd be hard to clean though as I had wheels like that on another car. They are 4 lug to boot. Makes the car look GT'ish.

Thanks guys! Any help is appreciated. I'll look the the FSM tomorrow as well. *yawn* I'm out! Oh yeah, btw! I wanted to make a correction to what I said earlier about the header lengths. The header/uppipe combo IS NOT equal length. I had a good look at it earlier today and it was quite obvious. The passenger side is shorter. How much shorter has to be measured. If I get around to it, I'll post up numbers. I need to focus on the other stuff before I forget something (I do that easily).

Hey folks, Well, I'm slowly getting there. I have a few questions I need to ask though. People, if you aren't familiar with your car and various hoses, before taking hoses apart LABEL ALL YOUR HOSES. I felt like a kid at xmas when the kit came in and I know better because I label all my hoses when I do stuff like this. Unfortunately this time I didn't label anything so now I'm stuck. There are 3 hoses coming from those thingamajiggas on the passenger side shock tower. You guys speak of these everytime we talk about fuel cut or what not. Well, 3 of those hoses now have nothing to go to. I have two places to plug them into but I need some assistance. I'm not even sure if I can just leave one off or if it was just off before. ???? Here are the hoses. The 4th hose you see in the pic below is attached to that little 'disc' on the right side of the pic. There's something else I need to take care of. My stock turbo-intercooler piping is 1.75". The turbo's outlet is now 2" so I have to get bigger piping. I'll go about doing this tomorrow. Here's my 2nd problem. The turbo that I have doesn't have a maf sensor to turbo inlet connection like the stock unit. The turbo inlet detaches. What's good about this is that it can be rotated and clamped depending on your setup. What's bad about it is.....I don't have a clamp to keep it together. Can I get a clamp for it at Home Depot or some other hardware store? Last but not least, be aware that you'll need to redo your whole exhaust system. The downpipe does not exit where your stock catalytic converter begins at. I'm going to need to get another cat converter and redo the exhaust piping. I'll probably get another muffler as well. I have something in mind. As for the cat converter, I'm looking for a 2.5" one from Summit racing that isn't too long. I hope I could've given some insight as to the coolant to turbo inlet/outlet and oil to turbo inlet/outlet lines. I don't know how the location of the uppipe and the stock turbo's position affects how these things hookup. I know with the turbo I have, I had to extend all the hoses, get extra clamps and a couple of 'elbows' in the lines for bends. They are done now but just want to bring these things to your attention. I'm wondering how this intake is going to look once it's together. I'll eventually do that over rather than use the stock piece (if I can use it). Looks like the brunt of the work is done for now. Hope things hold together. Signing off......................the unmechanic.

Mr.Radon, Nice to see you on this side of the pond. Hate to say it but you won't get much love here on these boards as far as the XT6 is concerned. Seems they are sort of a black sheep in the whole old-school scooby scheme of things. I just know I've never gotten many responses on anything XT6 related. Good luck finding some info.

From your sig, it looks like you are there. If anything, maybe change the header and/or downpipe but we don't even know if that's necessary. All Will did was crank the boost up to 14-15psi to get his numbers. Come on, take up the Will's Challenge. Nice list of mods btw.

That's because I'm retarded! But retarded strength always wins over. :-p Yeah, the exhaust lengths appear to be pretty much equal. I never measured it out though. Exhaust diameter and heat determines velocity. Exhaust length determines how good it scavenges. That's why you can always read someone saying an equal length header makes more hp/torque than an unequal length header.

Ah great! A little competition never hurt nobody. You guys can't let Will get away with this.

I understand the 'no low range' part but why would it be a problem because it's too short? I thought because it has practically no overhangs, it would do pretty well. Remember, I'm not experienced at these things. Also, I'm surprised no-one inquired what the big 'power' hump in the middle is for.

This evening, I went about uninstalling the downpipe, turbo and header/uppipe to do the exhaust gasket again. I previously only used four stock nuts on the exhaust ports but the Techworks installation guide suggests using the four stock nuts and four10mmX1.25mm pitch bolts. Look at this pic! Forgive my nasty finger. It's a mixture of car crap and Titanium Dioxide from my job (I just got off work). Here are the extra two holes in the cylinder head exhaust port I was talking about. One is on top and one is on the bottom. Notice the new OEM stock gasket is covering up these holes halfway. This is what I was mentioning earlier. You'll have to cut the exhaust gasket a bit to gain access to the two additional bolt holes (per exhaust port) so that you'll have a secure connection. So, I'll be going out tomorrow to get 4 of these 10mmX1.25mm pitch (even though I alread have two) bolts. Trust me, I want to get this done quickly but I want to get it done right the first time. Good thing I took everything apart again too. I still had an old exhaust gasket in place on the passenger side exhaust port. Duh!

What do you folks think of this? http://members.cardomain.com/liftedjusty88 "my lifted justy 4" lift 27" mud terrian tires cage etc."

I've read that the Toyota Previa Maf adapter fits as well.

So, is anyone going to put up the hp/torque challenge to Will? <------Looks around the room?

Find all the old posts that said it's impossible or it couldn't be done. BTW: You are still going to get some people that'll say things like this: 1: Well, your torque spiked up to it's peak point so that doesn't count, 2: You haven't ran for any considerable time to show that it's reliable, 3: You only did this once (like a one time 1/4 mile run). You have to do this at least twice for verification, 4: You ran your dyno in STD instead of SAE so whatever the conditions were, they aren't corrected, Shall I go on? Keep them coming! I'm just starting ish! Hah!

There's something about the picture below that I wanted to point out. I ran across this dilemma last night while installing the TWE header/uppipe combo. Take a look at the header exhaust port flange. Notice the difference between the TWE header flange (which has 4 holes) and the stock header flange (2 holes). Your stock header comes with two gaskets (one for each exhaust port) that is shaped like the exhaust port. However, it's recommened in the TWE installation guide that you use the two exhaust port nuts to tighten it down as well as two 10mm nuts. So you'll be tightening it down at all 4 holes rather than just using the two stock holes to tighten it down. Whatever you do, do not install the stock gaskets without slightly modifying them. The stock exhaust port gaskets interfere with the other two holes that will be needed to screw in the other two bolts. The stock gasket covers the hole the bolts need to go into about halfway so you'll need to slightly cut the outer edge of both exhaust port gaskets to make the additional two bolts (per exhaust port, 4 total) be able to fit. I'm only using the stock exhaust port nuts to hold the TWE header on but I know I need to do this right. You only want to do this once as I have to go back and uninstall my downpipe, turbo and header again (once again lifting the engine) to get this damn gasket right. I don't want ANY exhaust leaks. If you do this, you only want to do it once. Just a word of warning. *On a side note, one of the driver's side exhaust port studs came out while trying to unscrew the nut attached to it. The threading inside seems like it may have to be retapped. I'll get another stud and see how that goes.* If I have time after work, I'll take a picture so you can see what I mean by how the stock gasket(s) interfere with the intstallation of the 4 additional bolts.

Cool, thanks for the info but what octane gas were you running during all of this? My distributor is turned just about all the way up. I just don't want to go overboard with 93 octane when I could use 89. I've been using 93 octane ever since I advanced the timing so I wouldn't screw up anything. My hearing sucks so I don't rely on that for detonation detecting.

This is one approach. Another approach would be to get a RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator). This would help out at wide open throttle (WOT) situations. Around town driving is something else altogether. Perhaps an SAFC would work. I like the Legacy injector idea. This is going to far though. Can anyone here post what the pinouts are on the Legacy maf sensor? You know, what is ground, what is the hot wire, etc. This would be a starting point to figuring this out. I'll ask around and see if I can post up a pic or something. If someone has an FSM they can scan, if they could post a pic of EA82Ts maf sensor's pinouts, that would be helpful also. Here's an example of what I'm talking about. This is a scanned pic out of an XT6 FSM. It shows the XT6s maf sensor and what each corresponding wire is/means. I posted this up in an attempt to use an SVX Maf sensor from this thread: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1862&start=0 Perhaps a note or pic of the voltage range would be helpful as well.

This was in reference to one of my XT6s that has Delta Cams. :cool: Sorry! I should've been clearer.

Will, Are you experiencing clutch slippage between 4300rpm and 4900rpm at 12psi and above? Also, get with me in PM if you can. I need advice on the dyno file conversion to display horsepower and torque at the same time.

Hey Manny, 75% drivetrain loss? What is his tranny made of.....bricks? J/K I know what you meant.

Thank you!

Thanks! I'm faimiliar with those big wavy lines. Looks like it wants more fuel at the higher boost pressures. MMMmmmmm! This made my day! Yay!