Myxalplyx

BTW: Why no air/fuel ratio chart?

Congrats Will! That is awesome. Wish I was at home now (I'm at work). I have two questions for you. Can you send me the original dyno files so i can save them on my computer? This way I can compare our dyno information somewhere in some dark room all by myself. Also, how did you get your picture file to display horsepower and torque the same time? Whenever I go to convert the original dyno file, I have to convert it to an Adobe Acrobat format then to a JPG file. In the middle of this, it will not carry over horsepower and torque at the same time. It will only carry either or. I hate this! Thank! And again, congrats! It's about dang time you showed your dyno results.

Awe man! That sucks! Good luck receiving your goods. I can understand this getting to be frustrating after the 2nd time you called him and not getting a tracking number.

Hey all, I know some people here have installed aftermarket cams (camshafts) with their EA81 or EA82 N/A cars. Usually, people who get aftermarket cams advance their timing to help with idle and to gain some extra hp/torque. This can vary between +5 to +10 more degrees advanced timing from what I've read. My question is what octane have some of you folks used with an aftermarket cam grind and advanced timing? Is it necessary or advised to run higher octane (Ex: 93 octane) or is 87 - 89 octane usually just fine?

I'm not familiar with N/A EA82s but I have two XT6s. XT6s are basically an EA82 x 1.5. An intake and exhaust should work well for your car. Go with intake piping that is the same diameter as your throttle body. If you have bigger diametered intake tubing, just try not to go over .5" more than your throttle body's diameter. As for your exhaust, I'm at a lost. What is the stock exhaust piping size anyways? For some reason, I'm coming up with 1.5" as being the size you should go with [(2.25"/6)*4] since 2.25" works well with the XT6. I'm sure that's not the proper way to calculate this. Perhaps 1.75" - 2.00". I'll go with 1.75" so no low end torque is lost. Get one of the guys (Garner) to make up a pulley for you. This way, your acceleration is increased slightly due to the lighter weight of the pulley.

$395

I loved the drifting video. More, more, more!

Thanks a bunch! I'll look into it tomorrow. I was unscrewing the wrong nuts. I need to get used to making arrows and such in my pics. I'll practice that tonight. Vanislru, I'll try your suggestion on lifting.

On another note: I'm still having trouble with the engine mount(s). I removed the two 14mm nuts that I thought you guys were referring too from each side of the engine, underneath the engine mounts. A picture would be worth a thousand words. I'll continue to look in my FSMs to be extra sure but I'm thinking I'm looking at the wrong nuts. :-\ Lol! Warning! I found it dangerous to lift the engine from the oil pan. The shape of the oil pan can allow your jack to slide around. This happened to me when I was trying to jack the engine up using the oil pan. I thought it was balanced but since the oil pan isn't entirely flat, it slid a few inches. You can imagine the look on my face despite 4 other jacks being on the sides of the car. Also, the oil pan compressed in slightly due to the lifting. I didn't like that too much either but I can live with it. Still not high enough since the whole car seemed to be lifting as well. Here are a few pics of stock EA82T andTechworks (TWE) parts. Header/Uppipe combos. TWE header/uppipe on top while the stock unit is on the bottom. This picture is of the stock VF7 turbo (Did I get this right?) and the TWE Garret GT17 (From a Saab). The stock turbo unit is on the left while the TWE turbo unit is on the right. Here's a pic of the stock downpipe and the TWE downpipe. The TWE downpipe is on the top while the stock downpipe is on the bottom.

Hey Spanky_Pete, The price for my header/uppipe and downpipe was: Header -> $399US Down-pipe -> $219US (for use with the GT17 turbo). GT17 Turbo -> $395US As for Garner (or anyone else who wants to know), here are the diameters of various things I measured under the car earlier today. Mind you, I may have made a mistake in my measuring but I did the best I could. Stock engine exhaust port 2" Header-Uppipes Stock: Inlets- 1 1/2", Outlet(Uppipe)- 1 3/8" Techworks: Inlets- 1 7/8", Outlet (Uppipe)- 1 5/8- 2" *Note* Outlet of uppipe is oval in shape. Turbos *Note: Turbo inlets were difficult to measure since they are recessed somewhat inside the turbo housing.* Stock VF7: Inlet- 1 5/8", Outlet- 1 6/8" Techworks Garret GT17: Inlet- 1 7/8", Outlet- 2 1/2" Downpipes Stock: Inlet- 2", Outlet 1 6/8" Techworks: Inlet- 2 1/2", Outlet 2 1/2"

Wow! I thought that Legacy was a gem of an engine with tons of potential. You sure you want to do this Junkie?

No shame here! I bragged in NASIOC 'Proven Bragging Forum' that I the lowest 4wd turbo'd Subaru dyno numbers and no-one could top me. No one stood up so my record stands.

No, you are not! You can purchase a Techworks header/uppipe combo, downpipe and an upgraded turbo. It doesn't have to be a used turbo. You could purchase a new Legacy turbo or another one that fit their uppipe/downpipe combination. I'm assuming your 'etc' would also include custom parts. I was going to say you could purchase a new intercooler but you'd still have to customize your piping. So as far as 'new' parts, I'll just state what I have above.

You sound like Morpheus from 'The Matrix'.

Will, I had planned on continuing this later today. The ones you say NOT to remove are the ones I show in the pictures right? Do you happen to see the nut your are referring to in ANY of my pics? If so, which one? Thanks! These are the kinds of things I need to know. Remember, I'm a 6yr old working on the car. You mention only ONE nut to remove to lift the engine vs two. It seems you suggest differently than what Garner posted. Interesting!

Hrrm, just think of this. Suppose that for 'x' amount of flow the EA82T shows 2 volts. If you switched to a Legacy Maf and its 2 volts was equal to 'x+20cfm' or something like that, your range of cfm before getting to 4.7 volts or so would be broader. This would broaden your range before hitting fuel cut wouldn't it? Try it out! If you don't, I know I will someday. Woot!

Subaru marketing from the '80s: "Inexpensive and built to stay that way" Unfortunately, I've dumped way more money in my XT6s than what they are worth. The POSs!

Hey Qman, I'm not one of those few. I am a skeptic and doubter of a lot of stuff. If a trap speed at a 1/4 mile track with curb weight info was provided, then that's something that's believable. It's just that you see so many people with hp/torque quotes that it's hard to believe anything anymore. I'm nobody important. I've just been pretty vocal on the boards lately even though I've been lurking here for ages. I have a lot of respect for you 'Q' so please don't take my words the wrong way. Will's enthusiasm is addictive but the 85hp gain (from the 115hp stock or so) to the crank seems hard to believe. Remember this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10369&page=1&highlight=dyno That was with a 9.5:1 compression ratio and various mods. To get 200whp would seem to need quite a few mods to get there. The dyno plots are gone but it wasn't much. Maybe a 35hp gain or so. Need to see it posted back up. I'm sure he's probably gotten quite a few more horses since then but 200hp's worth? I dunno! It'll be exciting to see what he comes up with. Sorry if I offended! I actually hope you have 160hp and you are under-guesstimating yourself. Anyways, take care.

What if I don't want to let you let me believe what I want to? I have that right and I may excersize it. I am in control of my own destiny even if someone else doesn't let me. :-\

The bar is removed/raised. Thanks guys! I'll get to this tomorrow. Garner, I'll give you the diameter of the stock exhaust port, inlet to header, uppipe outlet, inlet to turbo, outlet from turbo and inlet to downpipe if you want it. Actually, I've already measured the downpipe. I'm not expert but I did the best I could. Stock downpipe inlet seemed to be 2" and outlet 1 6/8". Techworks downpipe inlet is 2 1/2" and outlet is 2 1/2". I took pictures of them on the ground as well as the stock turbo and GT17 turbo. I've always liked pics. I'll post them up when I get a chance. I have to run out to pick the wifey up and go food grocery shopping.

That video of the 'crash' was pretty funny. "I better get behind the rock", "Oh sh**" How did your passenger side rear rim do? Where you still on the gas as the car slided because it seemed that should have helped you some. It looked like you just started going sideways with no pedal action.

I figured that I'd probably have some questions about the installation (or removal of stock parts) so I may as well make a thread about it. Since I'm no mechanic, I have to be very careful about what I'm taking apart and such since I'm not familiar with a lot of parts in application (only on paper). Techworks instructions state, "Removal of the engine mounts and raising the front of the engine slightly,will allow easier fitment of the TechWorks Engineering header/up-pipe. (Please note that we have not remove engine mount fasteners for any of the installs we have performed in house)." I don't quite understand what it means to remove the engine mounts but keep the fasteners in place. ??? Also, I'm trying to identify where the engine mounts are. Remember, talk to me like you would a 6 year old. I don't mind since I'm trying to learn about this stuff. So here are a couple of pics. I'm assuming this is a passenger side engine mount. I'm talking about the piece to the bottom right of the open exhaust port. If so, is this one of the bolts I need to remove/loosen to raise the engine slightly? Here's another pic: This is what looks like an engine mount on the driver's side of the car. Is the rusted bolt in the center another one of the bolts I need to remove/loosen to raise the engine? There's also another bolt underneath this 'engine mount' (if this is what this is) that looks like it's attached to the driver's side one. Here: See this bolt ^ (In the middle section, in the dark area, kinda rusty). It looks like it's on the bottom side of the driver's side engine mount. Do I have to do anything with this bolt also (If I'm getting the engine mount locations correct)? I can't remove the stock header because of the head shield that's wrapped around the passenger side exhaust port section. I tried to be creative getting it out but it seems to get pretty snugg in that hole (You can see it on the first pic, bottom right). Thanks for any help. BTW: If I run into any more problems (which I know I will), I'll just ask them in this thread instead of posting more threads. So far I've gotten all the intake plumbing removed, the downpipe, and the turbo including the oil and coolant lines. Oh...and anothe important question. At what point on the engine do I put my jack to do the raising? The last thing I want to do is try to raise the engine at a bad location and have my jack go through something.

This is something I've been concerned about myself. Usually cams are known to move the powerband around instead of providing a gain throughout the powerband. I know some folks here stated they've noticed their topend improve but I'd be concerned about the bottom end as well, maybe even more so. Since we have such low compression and low displacement, a loss of bottom end on top of this could make for a scary onramp experience. Good point Calebz!

We are still talking about what we believe is the case and no documented info. The info provided is really informative though. Thanks guys! I think I may have a lead on some interesting info that you guys would want to read. I'll report when I get home from work in about 2 more hours. It may or may not be one step further to what EXACTLY is going on here. I'll report once I get home if my red eyes don't burn out of my head. I've been looking all night for some fuel cut info on the internet and came across something(s). Edit: Arrrgh! I'm to sleepy to look much further. Check this patent out by "Abstract not available for JP60222537 Abstract of corresponding document: GB2157853 The cylinders of the engine are divided into two notional groups, and the control system is provided with an engine speed sensor, a throttle closed sensor, and a fuel cut off circuit responsive to a signal of the throttle sensor provided engine speed N is greater than n1 for producing a fuel cut off signal. A cylinder group selecting circuit responds to the fuel cut off signal by disabling fuel injectors in one of the groups of cylinders, and then disabling fuel injectors in the other group after a delay. When engine speed N is less than n2 fuel supply is resumed in the same two stage way. Patent number:JP60222537Publication date:1985-11-07 From here: http://v3.espacenet.com Lots of information about Subaru Fuel Cut device and lots of diagrams. I'm beat after working 12hrs and can't search through this when I get home. See if you can find any further information on Funi Heavy Industries fuel cut patent and exactly how they go about. Again, lots of useful diagrams. Would be more useful if you could read Japanese. More info: "Abstract not available for JP1032040 Abstract of corresponding document: US4846127 An idle switch is provided to respond to release of an accelerator pedal of a motor vehicle, for producing an idle signal. A large increment of the engine speed after the production of the idle signal is detected and an engine speed increase signal is produced. The increment is compared with a predetermined value and an immediate cutoff signal is produced when the increment is larger than the predetermined value. In response to the immediate cutoff signal fuel supply is immediately cut." Patent number:JP1032040Publication date:1989-02-02

There could be other things that sound similar to it. Just like Phaedras, I still do not know what pinging would sound like. People say like a can of marbles but I've heard this sound in one of my XT6s before and was told that it wasn't pinging. I posted a video of it at the XT6.net site: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3221&highlight=pinging but have since taken it down. It sounded just like small firecrackers going off as I was approaching 85-90mph. Air/fuel ratios was getting leaner and leaner still since the intake is routed out through the passenger side foglight. I guess you'd have to hear it at least once to know what it really sounds like. I am not looking forward to hearing it....EVER. Here's another video from the thread I posted above. A guy responded and said you could hear pinging in his XT turbo. http://x35performance.com/xt/100_5068.MOV *Save-As*