Myxalplyx

Actually, you'd need about 1125lb-ft of torque to make 150hp at 700rpm. His car must pull like a train. (Take it easy, I know what you meant).

I'm sorry guys if I seem to sound like a prick or anything but I'm going to ask this again. Where is there documented information that states fuel cut is determined by the ECU seeing volume of air over a determined limit (On our EA82Ts)? I've been searching and reading and re-reading and can not find it. There has got to be something somewhere that says this is the case in the later modelled Subarus. I could've overlooked someone posting this info and I apologize if this has been the case. Up to now though, this just seems like it's assumed that it works this way.

Now that's fuel! Damn car gonna cause a forest fire.

I think what Morgan may be getting at is that even with a significant increase in nitrous (Let's say a 100hp shot), the car will still be 'slow'. If for drag racing purposed, that'd probably be a low-high 14 second EA81 depending on the weight of the one this 'high' shot of nitrous would be in. It'd probably not be worth it. Now on a EA81T or EA82T, that's something else. The nitrous on top of the turbo (especially with an intercooler) would do some interesting things. One probably would be breaking a lot of stuff.

Will, What do you mean by 'the stage 3 does need a little care in engagement'? I'm not real familiar with manual trannies and such. If 'care' is not taken (I'm thinking you mean how smoothly you shift), what could I expect to happen? Also, what about availability? If $$$ is given up now, when are the first batches expected to be done? You know how it is with new stuff being made from scratch. Thanks!

*Bump of semi-old thread* My radiator replacement is coming sooner than I expected. Laying under the car removing certain items, I noticed that my radiator is rusted/corroded. You can push lightly on it with your pinky finger and it just seems to turn to dust with various pieces falling to the ground. Not good! My temperature gauge holds in the middle but I'm not one to wait for things to happen, especially when I see something going wrong with it. I'm trying to do as much preventive maintenance as possible before going much further with upgrades. I'm looking at thepartsbin.com and I noticed two radiators for the RX turbo. One is for $101.80 (Radiator Metal tank, G1000-49017), while the other is for $136.96 (Radiator Heavy duty metal tank, G1000-48574). There is no mention of the two being single, double or anthing else row. Can anyone recommend which one I should choose and why? I want to assume the higher priced one is better but sometimes that simply isn't the case. Someone here may have some experience purchasing either one of these radiators. Thanks!

JWX is right! Go with a wet kit. Remember our cars are old. My XT6 had professionally cleaned stock injectors that probably flowed a little better than they did brand new and it still wasn't enough to prevent a lean running condition when running nitrous. Imagine how a stock injector that hasn't been cleaned in 15 years or so might operate. I've had a lot of success running a dry nitrous setup in my Outback Sport. I'm sure others here have had similar or even better experiences with a dry setup. It just doesn't seem as safe to rely on your stock fuel injectors to provide fueling for your car since stock injectors are usually rated not to be able to handle a whole bunch more horsepower than stock. Having fuel injected with the nitrous through a wet kit while having your stock injectors operate as they normally should, should get you a better nitrous/air/fuel mix in your cylinders. If anything, the only thing you'd have to be concerned about is puddling of fuel in your intake manifold.

I have a suggestion. Purchase a new pump. No, seriously! If you are getting the necessary voltage to your pump and the pump isn't turning/pumping, then there's a problem with your pump. You need a new one.

Ok, I purchased access to Autospeed. I keep ending up back at that site reading up on some information about something or another anyways. Here's what I remembered reading previously. " Vane Airflow Meters - Not What They Seem! There are a few other things to note about vane airflow meters: (1) Unlike a hot wire design, the vane airflow meter measures volume airflow, not mass. It's mass which is important, and so a temp sensor is included in the airflow meter. With airflow volume and temperature available, mass can be calculated. (Atmospheric pressure? - for really accurate calculations, it's needed as well!) (2) The insides of the meter - both the mechanicals and electricals - are carefully designed so that the meter is very sensitive around low loads, where good driveability requires a high resolution. This means that, strictly speaking, the output signal is not directly proportional to combustion air intake volume. (3) It is a complete and utter fallacy that vane airflow meters are restrictive. In fact, measurement shows that a large vane airflow meter poses less full-load restriction than a similar sized hotwire airflow meter. (We'll cover this intriguing point in more detail another time.)" The article goes on to talk about a lot of other different stuff about air/fuel ratios and the vane air flow sensor but I'll stop here.

It looks like it is restrictive by its makeup but do you know for sure that it is more restrictive than a MAF (or MAP) sensored car? I say this because maybe a day or two ago, I was reading this article: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2055/article.html I can't access the whole article now for some darn reason. ???? Anyway, I remember reading a sub-section that was talking about vane air flow sensors vs Hot Wire Maf sensors. It stated that the vane air flow sensors causing more restriction is a fallacy/myth/just plain false. They even stated that some vane air flow sensors flow better than comparable maf sensors and they stated why. I saved that link in my yahoo mail but now I can't access the whole article to post up the points it made. Sorry!

Agreed! I am using a Jumptronix digital air/fuel ratio meter for keeping track of the O2 sensor's voltage. http://www.jumptronix.com/whatsnew.htm I'm not sure if that site is down or the pics just aren't coming up. It's possible it's not being sold anymore. If that is so, that's too bad. I really like that air/fuel ratio gauge. It has a switch on the back of it also so you can read battery voltage.

And you'll still have to deal with the headache and money part. It sucks!

This is interesting! I thought all air/water intercoolers needed it's own heat exchanger rather than going through the radiator. I thought they needed their own heat exchanger because going through the radiator wasn't efficient enough since coolant temps would be around what your thermostat's setting is (EX: 195F, 180F, etc). I guess the stock Legacy/WRX air/water intercooler setup also doesn't have it's own water pump as well. ? . Interesting! I could see why any old school EA81T or EA82T owner would want that type of intercooler though. It would seem to be just right for our cars considering the limited bumper space for an intercooler and no hood scoop.

Hey Jay, this is one boring looking car. I like it! The more it has that 'I couldn't hurt a fly' look about it, the better. Now add some surface rust and you'll be set.

That's odd! My ER27 hated it. Always ran too lean using a 50hp shot of Zex dry nitrous. EGT's would shoot over 1600F so I'd shutdown. ??

A 35hp shot is not going to be much fun. It's not worth it.

Teh Old postay you broughteth uppeth. May as well get this done as well before turning up the boost. Darn it!

I'm assuming you have a non-turbo gl wagon. If so, go for a 2" custom cat back exhaust and a freer flowing intake. If funds are still available, ask around this board to see if you can get a lighter weight crank pulley for quicker acceleration. Other than this, things'll start to get expensive.

Ok, I'm looking at EA82 Pistons and where the rings belong. You are looking to fend off detonation by having carefully prepped pistons. What am I looking at vs what? I'm lost!

Added weight? No! Put it in 4X mode and take off like a bat out of hell.

Just looked this up at Napaonline and could not find it. 15038 is a part number for a transmission filter.

I guess it'll help out when the oil leaks start up as well. At least it'll keep it from billowing out of the engine bay.

Thanks Brian! What about the electrical portion? You know, so you can see the gauge at night. I have to do this now. I know you should attach it to a 12v wire somewhere but you can't just tap any ole 12v wire. It has to be a wire that turns on when the lights are turned on. What did you use? (I'm asking you this as a child would or someone not in the know).

No new thread! We need PICS! :-p