Myxalplyx

With this in mind, do you think an upgraded turbo (such as the legacy units) that people have been using would help with this issue? It would seem that since it's a bigger turbo, inlet air temperature at the same psi would be lower. Also, I thought I read that the turbo sits a little higher and further back. This would move the heat higher up (which is better since heat rises) and further back (which is better since engine air flow travels towards the firewall) which should help prevent or reduce the #3 cylinder head cracking issue.

Hey Will, Just for the record, I'm on the 'Mod the EA82T engine for power' team. However, I keep seeing that 200hp figure tossed around. That's a helluva figure to just say lightly. You got to show some people some proof man. Of course you don't have to prove anything to anyone but it would be great to show where you were at and where you are/were when you got to that holy grail 200hp number. That's 85hp more than stock. I know it's not impossible but that's quite a jump. I can see that some people'll take this for a joke or something. That's not cool! I already know you stated you will be dyno'd. Cool! If ANYONE here has some data to show the stock hp figures/power and the 200hp figure/power, that would be excellent. It doesn't have to be a dyno. Track trap speeds are good as well. That's all....thanks! BTW: Will/WJM.....our parts are coming in tomorrow *Giddy with excitement...tee-hee-tee-hee* Unfortunately, my RX turbo has one flat tire (brand new Kumhos I got). I ordered another one on Thursday so hopefully it'll be here so I can put it on and have some dyno numbers for you guys next week. It's all I can think about. The TWE parts will be dyno'd at some further date. The non-mechanic I am have to try to install it myself. I'm nervous about it.

So, how are things going with this monster?

Yeah but is it turbocharged? I mean, I can't see THAT much hp and torque coming out of an N/A ER27 and it be drivable. I'm no expert but I have an ok amount of mods on my XT6 and it's nowhere near those numbers.

Well, the heads crack with it being just stock. Unless you solve the problem near #3 cylinder as to why it gets bad over there and not as bad in other places, you may be limited. I'll guesstimate and say around 200hp to the crank is where you may start running into cylinder head heating issues really quickly. Again, it's an issue stock but I think it'd be accelerated and slap you in the face by then. An even truer answer to your question is......I don't know.

Hey guys, Huck at the XT6.net was posting about that older modelled GTech Pro and got some of us wanting to get one ourselves. I missed mine ever since it was stolen. Since the units are so cheap now, I decided to order a new one off of Ebay for $36.90 *shipping included*. I ordered mine on Dec 28th and got it Dec 31th. SERVICE! Anyways, I know some of you may have yours but haven't posted your results and such. I plan on posting results and the corresponding mods I have with those results. If any of you have one, can you please post your results and such to this thread. We do not need to discuss the accuracy of the GTech Pro unit vs the drag strip. The purpose of this thread is so that some of us can compare before and after mods to show how effective they are. That is what I plan on showing. We can also compare to each other. At some point I'll be testing both XT6s, the RX turbo and perhaps the Impreza. Here are the weights I'll be using on the GTech Pro unit. Me = 205lbs 1989 FWD/Auto XT6 = 2800lbs (Weighed on truck scale) 1989 AWD/Auto XT6 = 2975lbs From here: http://www.cars101.com/oldsubaru.html#1991%20XT 1988 FTWD/Manual RX Turbo = 2640lbs http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23028&highlight=Curb+Weights I will be entering the weight of the car plus my weight as a total in the GTech Pro unit. Again, if you've alredy tested some runs or plan to, please post up your results. Thanks! That's all for now.

Well, the middle of December has passed. Someone should've ordered some by now. I'm wondering just how light these wheels are.

I was talking about purchasing archemitis's ER27 engined hatch. Or perhaps Dave's (of ProECM) turbocharged XT6 (which I was showing parts pics of).

Or purchase this from someone who had already did the grunt of the work. *hint*

I can understand the turbo part but why would it rule out the fuel system? I don't know if the fuel system is designed the same N/A as their turbo counterpart. If they aren't the same than I understand now. I hope this isn't a cooling issue as far as the coolant and/or oil flow passages. This would seem difficult to remedy. :-\

I wonder if Mr Rogers used this technique to fabricate exhaust manifolds on racing V8 in his spare time.

It's interesting that you mention what you did for the passenger side fuel injectors and all. I remember reading that one of the reasons that side had problems was because of the amount of heat the turbo produces near #3 cylinder. What you propose may be the case as well. I remember reading about this same thing at NASIOC. It always seemed that there was a problem at the #3 cylinder (sometimes #4 for some people). The same things were brought up there as was brought up here (turbo's positioning to failed cylinder and the design of the fuel rail). I've also seen an mention of the water jacket design maybe being different near #3 cylinder. Can't remember were I read that at. Does anyone here have any pictures of the design of the fuel rail that they can share with everybody so we all can have a better understanding of what's being talked about? I'm at work but I wouldn't mind taking a pic when I get settled at home.

I agree with your thoughts. I'm assuming our exhaust port size is 1.5" since that's the diameter of the stock exhaust piping. Hope someone finds out. If it is and the Techworks header/uppipe is 1 7/8, man....that's slowing down the velocity. On top of that, if you have a larger turbo, then it'll be even more lag. Our low compression, poor air flow and low displacement only compounds things. It'll be interesting to see what people experience with the parts. Good luck on your custom build. Crush bends aren't the end of everything and can work quite well.

Lol! Interesting to see where this post is leading too. Has anyone read the SVX links? We don't even know what problems we may run into until someone actually goes to Michael and tries to set something up. I know I haven't provided the address and all yet. I'm just awaiting a response. I'd be more than happy to persue this myself guys but like I said, I'm too far away. I know all of our ECUs aren't the same and different things would have to be addressed. However, this is a start. More power to you peeps trying to read the codes and do this yourself. Lots of $$ can be had if you are successful. I don't care if Yoshio, ECUtune or Jim Wolf from Nissan does the reflash. It would be nice to rid our cars of fuel cut, make bigger injectors run like stock and gains in torque amongst other things. Read up some of the SVX links provided if you haven't. Those peeps are really happy of their tune. I'm talking about 'mail ordered', non-dyno tuned, same reflash used for different modifications.........Reflash. And those people are happy. Ah well, it was worth a try. Cheers!

You don't happen to be talking about Yoshio of Japanese Automotive right? I was considering going with him about a year ago on one of my XT6s. I can't remember the price but I didn't want a 'mail tune' and hope for the best approach. I'd need to be there on the dyno and getting the relflashes tested. So I opted out but Yoshio was cool about everything.

Hey all, In another post, I posted that I had sent an email to Michael of ECUtune to develop a reflash for us EA82T owners in order to gain some performance out of our cars. Michael has done an ECUTune reflash for the SVX and the people over at SVXNetwork.com are going nuts over it. A link is provided to some of the post(s) at the ECUtune site. Some of the things that a reflash can do is remove any speed limiters, change timing and change fueling for performance or fuel economy, change parameters so you can run on lower octane successfully (this has been done for the SVX folks), setup the ECU for nitrous, setup ECU for bigger fuel injectors, etc. The options seem great. He'd need at least 10 of us who are willing to do this before he starts any research and development. He'd also need someone available that can be the 'guinea pig' of sorts so that tuning can be done on their vehicle. I'd do it but unfortunately I'm too far away. I'm asking for the exact location of his shop so that maybe someone here can go for it. He's located in Florida I think. The price I wouldn't say is written in stone but it's starting at $250 if you must see a number. The SVX folks actually got theirs for cheaper (around $179 I believe) and then it went up. If you are interested, please reply. You can already count me as one person who is willing to sign up. Also, if you have an EA81T, feel free to post up as well. Thanks! http://www.ecutune.com/ http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20374&highlight=ecutune http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16539&highlight=ecutune http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21344&highlight=ecutune 1: Kevin aka Myxalplyx *1988* 2: Vanislru *1986* 3: 4: 5: 6: 7: 8: 9: 10: --Carfreak, 1984 (maybe in summer) --Jeepman775, Possibly if $$ comes together *Guinea Pig/Tester* =

*Bump* Anyone?

Will or anyone else here...... Do you have the part# for the stock uppipe and downpipe gaskets? I want to replace mine with new ones to prevent any leaks. Thanks!

I'll be testing my baseline 'stock' (K&N open air filter was installed when tested) vs K&N open air filter and Garner Pulley. I already have a baseline. I just need to test with the Ganer pulley installed. Then I'll test the K&N/Garner Pulley combo vs K&N/Garner Pulley/Intercooler setup. The intercooler should be interesting because sometimes my boost pressure doesn't seem to be as high as it was stock. It'll be 8psi one day and another day it seems to be betwen 6-7psi. I do know it spools up slower than stock. Hopefully the dyno runs'll show all this. *Ok back to topic*

I'm awaiting a response about the ECUTune reflash and will post in a new thread. Meanwhile, I have one question about the fuel cut problem. I noticed alot of people say it's monitored by the ECU via the airflow sensor and that a certain voltage (5v or more for instance) is what triggers the cut. A countdown of sorts happen and if air flow is still creating a post 5V reading to the ECU from the air flow sensor, then the fuel cut occurs. Is there any documentation anywhere that this is what takes place on 87+ turbo'd Subarus? I mean, where does it say the airflow sensor is what sends and voltage to the ECU to trigger a fuel cut situation? I just want to be able to read further on this. Thanks!

This is why I'm afraid to check in my dash for myself. My car is down at the moment due to a flat tire yesterday but I have 3 dyno appointments next week. I don't want to fudge things up to a point where it's undrivable. Maybe afterwards.

Let me get this right Will because I think I'm a little thrown off by your diagram. Are you looking for 'Detail D' by looking for 'Detail A' (in which you found) because #27 in 'Detail D' is the Fuel Cut unit? :-\

So, Will.....you were the only one to experience slippage while using a stock XT6 clutch? It seems others have had success using a stock XT6 clutch as well as a stock EA82-T clutch. Hrrmm......so what's the consensus here? Also, have anyone here called Paul Eklund of Primitive Enterprise to see if he still carries an upgraded XT6 clutch setup? I'm going to go with a stock XT6 clutch setup for $89 as posted earlier. I mean, a stock XT6 puts out over 40lb-ft of torque more than a stock RX turbo at lower rpms. It must can hold up to some abuse from a modified EA82T. Does anyone have any proof as to how much extra torque a modified EA82T puts out?

Could you explain in more detail? I mean, in colder climates, the air is much denser so the heater element in a mass air flow sensor (hot wire type) would be harder to heat up, which would increase the voltage signal in the sensor. That would mean fuel cut would/could be experienced at stock boost levels at say -10F temps for example. What is it exactly that determines fuel cut sense some people don't experience it at all? Is it necessary in order to run higher boost, you have to 'heat' up the air prior to the airflow sensor so that the air isn't too dense, so the sensor element doesn't become too hard to heat up? That would explain why some people in warmer/hotter climates wouldn't experience the 'fuel cut' problem but it must be more than this. I had to actually read up on air flow sensor (hot wire maf sensor in particular) to see how they work. The flapper maf is the one that senses volume (like the older turbo'd subes) so it would seem better fit for them to be used to cut fuel if it was totally dependant on volume. Why go to a hot wire maf sensor to measure air volume to cut fuel when the previous sensor would've measured air volume/flow better? This all just seems confusing to me.

I'm glad you said this. I was about to ask if the coolant from the turbo could just be routed to another location rather than the head. However, if the FSM holds true, then you pose an interesting question. Inquiring minds want to know. :-\