Myxalplyx

Hey Will, Your RX is beautiful! Damn! I don't see ANY rust anywhere. Nice!

Ah, the car that started my obsession. A 1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon. Man....lotsa fun!

TechWorks Header! *Just making this post easier for me to find when it scrolls down and off the charts*.

That's what I wanted to know. When I ran a 2.25" cat back exhaust on my Outback Sport, it's low end was pretty brutal (used with nitrous). I was always curious as to if the piping diameter was a tad too small and I that maybe I should've went with a 2.5". The torque was really fun though. I don't want to lose any low end torque with the EA82T setup. As a matter of fact, low-midrange torque means everything to me nowadays. Thanks!

Where can I find more magazine articles for the RX turbo here? I was looking for them here can couldn't find them. If I have time, I'll stop by the library and get microfilm print outs of articles for the RX Turbo around that time (1984-1989). I did the same thing for the XT6 a while back and sent the microfilm print outs to a friend on the XT6 group to post up. http://www.ptrlabs.com/xt6/articles/

Very interesting! First off, congrats on running so well in the company you keep in your class. That says a lot of your driving skill and the potential of your car. Ok, why did you choose 2.25" exhaust piping instead of 2.5" or 3"? What happens to head gasket by #3 cylinder is very interesting also. I thought I read in another post that you (or maybe it was someone else) had this problem ironed out?!? If you do find out the reason the head gasket blows out around #3 cylinder, please share it with us. I know I'll take all the necessary precautions to avoid a head gasket blowing out in the future with whatever you peeps (everyone at the USMB) find. I just want to rule out any weak links before turning up the boost.

Nice Justy! If you ever want to upgrade your engine, do something like this--> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/articles/justy-lsr.jpg

Hello Glenn, *Correction* The question should be, 'How slow are they?'.

Faster yes but 'Fast'....uhm.....No. Intake air filter and adapter from your local store or Ebay. Get a custom exhaust made from shops like Meineke and such. Got $$$? Send your engine to Ram Performance. Got more $$$, find a reputable shop to somehow stuff a WRX engine and tranny into your car.

You laugh but remember my dyno runs? I'm only making 0-25hp up there anyways. I'd probably bog worse then launching at 1500rpm. Welp, the clutch would explode from all the speed but the car ain't moving because there's no torque. Sucks! On a more serious note, I'll continue reading and take advice. Thanks maximumBRAT! I'll be trying that out and practice.

Yeah, I asked it. Whatcha gonna do? :cool: I didn't want to ask it for days and searched and searched which led me to this. You see, I like to drag race but I've only drag raced autos for years. Now that I'm learning how to drive a manual trannied RX turbo, it's a totally different animal. I've said it here before but I only know how to drive from video games. And I've been doing pretty good so far (no miss-shifts and only grinded once speed shifting). I just need some pointers on launching. I know what people say when they say their car 'bogs' now. I practiced a couple of times the other day on some back roads. Heck, I tried yesterday as well. I only try this when it has rained out just in case I get a good launch. Then I'd just spin my tires instead of wrecking my tranny. I'm too chicken to launch post 2500rpm and I know I have too. So, any advice on how to launch and get a good 60ft time? I'm all ears. Thanks for any help.

Keep telling you to open up 'Gary's Garage'. I'd travel down to Maryland just for your services. Set it up for appointments only. And thanks again for all of your help in the past and present. I'm working my regular 12hr shift, overtime, supervisor shift detail and detail overtime. I don't see getting off a day until sometime the middle of January (if possible). So peeps with your services would be a Godsend! I'm half kidding but if you did it........$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.

Your daughter is HOT! *Yikes*

I never said I don't see your point. I see both of your points. I'm not getting involved in this though. That's what I'm saying. Just giving Arch some advice on how he can turn the tables in his XT6. The place he chooses to 'turn the tables' is his choice. It's not that I condone it or anything, I'm just not touching on my opinion of street racing. I'd probably seem like a hypocrit anyways since I still have videos of me street racing floating around.

This is going to get out of hand really quick. Wish there was a forum for this. I'm not taking either sides and I'm staying out of it. <----Old school stweet wacer, only track now. Arch, if you want respect, you have to take it. You have to do something to your car to annihilate that WRX. It's possible but staying N/A it won't happen. A nice intake and exhaust help a lot. Try a K&N cone filter and a 2.25" exhaust (eliminating the 2nd cat) back to a 2.25" muffler (I like Dynomax Ultra Flow SS). If you drive a stick, you probably could take an automatic WRX up to 60mph or so (On the track) and a manual up until about 35-40mph. It'll be fun and it's a start.

Wow, that sucks!

Start with the basics: Change filters (air, fuel), Replace spark plugs/wires, distributor cap and maybe ignition coil. Replace PCV valve Check all your vacuum lines and if they are old and brittle, just replace them. If clamps are loose, tighten. See how things go from there.

Whatever became of this project SubaruTex? This story never ended. *Old Post Bumpay*

Nah, I won't be using header wrap. I too much rain and snow where I'm at. Maybe if I lived in Southern California. I just hope I'm able to get everything installed smoothly as well as the rest of you. Heck, I hope we get our parts we've ordered. I'm a pessimist so.............

Damn! That's beautiful! Whoever you sell that car too is going to be very very happy.

Get something that will retard timing just after a shift and then advance it thereafter. Or have more fuel added just at the beginning of each shift (with a fuel computer, aftermarket ECU, etc) and keep adding it until the pinging is gone. After this point, reduce fuel to where you have it at now further up the rpm range. I'm just throwing things out there until you get some more concrete answers. In the meantime, you should either reduce your boost or retard the timing until you get that squared away. Oh yeah, you can go with higher octane fuel also if it's available to see if it helps. What octane of fuel are you using anyways?

I was thinking of taking this approach. Putting one right in the return line seems to be the ticket. I'm posting this to remind myself when I look again (I'm at work as always).

Bumpay! I'm on a roll today bumping up old posts. I thought I'd add something interesting here that I just read (again) at the NASIOC site. The price will seem high to 85% of the people here but I'm thinking of getting it. This is info I'd REALLY like to know. "Intercooler temp gauge. These gauges where in high demand. I sourced them and have 20 instock. These gauges include two Temp probes and fittings and the electronic meter. You install one probe after the turbo outlet pipe and one probe before the throttle body. There is a three position switch. A position for before the intercooler and after. The middle position shows the difference in temp between the probes. Very usefull on finding the best and most effiecient boost setting on your car in the ambient temps you are in. You will also noticed trends in temp rises with TMIC's while at lights ect. I love mine. As I push boost higher and higher I found that past a certain amount of boost air temp out of the turbo shot through the roof. $250 each blow out price" From here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8161780&posted=1#post8161780

Bump for a really really good thread. I was/am looking for fuel pressure regulator (and Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator) info and came across this. Really informative! *Back from da dead* Here's something interesting I just read at NASIOC about the use of RRFPR. "Stock fuel pumps can produce about 55 psi max in most cases. Since the WRX and STI both use a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure increases with boost pressure. Base fuel pressure on both cars is 43 psi static at idle. The FPR raises fuel pressure in a 1 to 1 ratio. This means for every lb of boost you add you gain 1 lb in fuel pressure. The reason fuel pressure increases is not so much to provide more fuel on boost but rather to combat the pressure the injector tip sees in the intake manifold. let me explain: The injector is being fed with 43 psi of fuel pressure and fuel sprays out into the intake tract at 43 psi. If you add boost of say 10 psi you now have 10 psi of pressure forcing fuel back into the injector. The injector is now fighting the boost pressure to inject fuel. This is differential pressure across the tip of the injector. The overall actual pressure is really 33 psi now. Since we have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator we gained 10 psi in fuel pressure as we created that 10 psi of boost pressure. The injector sees 53 psi of fuel pressure now due to the rise. Since the injector tip sees the 10 psi of boost we have an actual pressure of 43 psi.. In other words the pressure stays the same due to the increase in fuel pressure by the FPR. From http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=668778

I'll try this again. This question isn't just to you Skip but anyone here that can answer. Are there any RRFPRs that any of you recommend using that will fit on our EA82-Ts? I don't want to go out and purchase just any ole RRFPR and have it not fit to my car. I'm not going to utilize it just yet. I have to get an intercooler in place and open up the exhaust. After these two mods and installing an air/fuel ratio and EGT gauge, then I'll play with boost. Oh BTW: I am now reading this..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6985&page=1&highlight=RRFPR Seems to be a good read. I'm searchin'!