Myxalplyx

Wow, thanks for the responses. Seems you can get anywhere from a ' it's kinda quiet' to 'It's loud'. I thought it would be the same across the board. Looks like the only thing to do is get a muffler but do a straight pipe without a muffler first just to see how it sounds like. Now, I'll thumb through some old posts to see exactly which straight through muffler is a direct bolt on but is relatively quiet. Thanks all!

Like the title says, who's running an EA81-T and/or EA82-T without a muffler? How does the car sound (is it loud or not)? I know this is a subjective question but I'm still contemplating what muffler to get but heck, if I can run without one, so be it. Thanks!

Try around $45! :-p

He's happy with the wing he has. Isn't that what it's all about? :-\ BTW: Can you tell me how to add 30-40hp to an RX for $200?

It ran as in it idled or you were able to drive around like this? Are you able to drive around without the Maf sensor hooked up? That's strange!

I would bet that the voltage range would be different. I know I tried to use an SVX Maf sensor on one of my XT6s and it was a no go. Worked for a split 2nd and no more. The voltage range would have to be the same so the ECU would receive the correct readings. This voltage I am talking about is the signal from the MAF to the ECU. I wouldn't be surprised if our Maf sensor is one of those 'one-off' deals like the bolt pattern of our wheels................The POS.

Intercooler, Exhaust, Boost controller.

:-\

I was thinking the same thing.

Really nice looking project you got going on there SubaruTex. Can't wait to see it all come together.

What kind of autotranny is in it?

Guys, Your approaches may be too complicated. We all know the cylinder temps are too high because the combustion chambers get 'too' hot. Simply doing things like a lower thermostat, oil cooler and intercooler should be enough to thwart detonation. At the least, a good intercooler should be enough. Riding around with post 200F intake temperatures seem ridiculous to me, I don't care how low your compression ratio is. And some of us are riding with low (or lower) octane gas. Just remember Subaru's slogan from back in the day, "Inexpensive and built to stay that way". That's just a cool way of saying something was built cheaply. Again, keep boost in check by not running your turbo out of its efficiency range. Reduce coolant temps by getting a slightly cooler thermostat. Install an oil cooler. Install an intercooler. If auto, heck install a tranny cooler. Even that may help reduce engine bay temps. Cool!

Aha! So that would be the answer to the detonation and timing being retarded. Too much heat! The efficiency range of the stock turbo is around 13psi right?

If the code is still the fuel temp sensor, be sure your coolant level is high enough for it to read coolant temperature. Also, check out the coolant temp sensor plug connection. It may be corroded. You would see a 'fuzzy, greenish' bacteria/fungus covering the metal like it was some fungus in a coral reef. Sometimes this greenish stuff will form on your wires by the connetor but you'd have to remove the wire cover to see it. If you do notice this green stuff, use sandpaper to sand it down. I haven't found a spray bottle of stuff to spray on and remove it. Sand it down until it's light covering or completely gone. Then cover the metal with dielectric grease to help ease reformation or corrosion. This is from my and some other's experience with the water temp sensor on the XT6.

*Bizzump*

I swear, if that car was in my state (Delaware, especially in the Wilmington Vicinity), people would up and down call it an old school Datsun. It'd probably get stolen in due time as well. :-\ Those old school Datsuns are used to be raced with. 78' Datsun 1600CS-e 1977 Datsun 1400 GL

You'd change your horsepower (gain some) the higher you raise boost (to a certain point due to heat). It's not recommended unless you are familiar with all the pro's and con's of raising boost. I'm being very general with my answers. This may be getting off subject though so I'll stop here.

What ECU code does your car throw after it dies? Could be vacuum, ignition timing, low fuel pressure, etc. See if the ECU is reading something.

A boost controller is a device that is used to control how much boost pressure your turbo will make in the intake manifold. There are manual boost controllers and there are electronic boost controllers. A boost controller does not come stock on your car so you will not have one on your 88GL turbo wagon. Will has a "GReddy Profec B-Spec II electronic boost controller". The info I'm about to post is from a Sport Compact Car article I remember reading about boost controllers in a comparison test. Here's some info on the Greddy Profec B-------> "PRofec stands for Pressure Offensive Controller. What that means we're not really sure, and we don't care. The PRofec-B is really good. GReddy's "basic" model features a dual solenoid design similar to the Blitz SBC i-D. The solenoid assembly is somewhat bulky, but mounts easily enough in the engine compartment. An additional pressure signal must be brought to the back of the control unit in the cabin. Our tester came housed in a translucent blue case, which lets you see all the electronic bits inside. When lit up at night, it looks like a cross between a UFO and a holiday ornament. Basic black is available for a few bucks more. Where the PRofec-A must be trained in the ways of your turbo, the B model comes out of the box smart. GReddy specifically recommends this unit for sequential cars and problem cases. Straight-away boost is responsive, though further tuning can be made with the balance dial. High and low boost each get their own dial, all of which normally sit flush, and pop out for adjustment. Toggling between high and low boost is accomplished either by the mode button on the control unit, or through the use of GReddy's optional wireless remote switching system. Mount it on your steering wheel, shifter, key chain or girlfriend. Controller: GReddy PRofec-B Pro: Super simple, works great. Con: Sensitive knobs. Cost: $420 in black, $399 in blue, remote switch: $128. Source: GReddy Performance Products Inc. (949) 588-8300 www.greddy.com Aesthetics: Looks like a Xmas tree ornament. Ease of installation: Yes. Clarity of instructions: Fine. Available on Web site. Features: High, low boost, adjustable response. Performance: Grrrreat!" From here: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0207scc_boostcontrol/

Some questions: How much boost are you running in 'high boost' conditions?

Thank you Skip! This is exactly the info I needed. And thanks for the congrats!

Be sure to inform us on how to install this device. I think I'd like to have something cool like that. Of course I won't use it yet though. *cough*

Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question but I can not find my horn on my 1988 RX. I went to change it out today but couldn't locate it. I believe there is supposed to be a 'high' and 'low' horn (at least it looks this way in the FSM). I looked in the engine bay and couldn't find it. I expected it to be in front or near the radiator. The FSM doesn't show its location (or their locations). Can anyone help me? Thanks!

Ahhh! The Book of Reprints <----Lightning flashes and thunder sounds. Sounds important like you'd expect Moses to be carrying it around with tablets. Sounds like a good idea to me. Why don't you send your small 'database' to someone or post it up here or something? Please! Just in case a virus hits your computer or something crazy. We'd have a second resource. Not that something like that would ever happen to you. *cough*