Myxalplyx

Count me in! I'll do what I can, $$$ permitting.

Why don't you send it to me with $25.00? I'll put up the other $25.00 and immediately send it off to RC Engineering. Upon return of the injectors, I'll scan the result and send them both back to you so shipping will be evened out. What do you say? We can keep the results to ourselves and charge everyone on the board mucho bucks for an injector upgrade and live happily ever after.

The turbo will be active. You will get a dyno reading where you start recording at. If you start the dyno reading at 2000rpm, that's when the reading will start. The stock turbo's on EA82-Ts reach peak torque at 2800rpm. So there is most likely boost at somewhere off idle all the way up to when the car (or you) shift. Nope! There is a post with the temp difference of before and after intercooler installed. I know I haven't seen anything with before and after hp/torque results. I plan on posting info though but it still won't represent what you'll get even with the same setup. It's just a guideline. Must get passed through motor vehicle first, then the dyno. I hope someone else does a before and after intercooler installed though. Should be interesting.

Or the EA26 that was a .5 Litre... J/K Here is a link to the Subaru super 1000 deluxe EA52. http://www.subaru-global.com/about/history/1965-001.html Look at the super-duper low compression of 6.5. And it's not even turbocharged.

The reason I purchased my RX is "Because I had too" (Looking like Morpheus in deep thought from 'The Matrix').

Section 3-1, page 10 of 1987 Factory Service manual for 4-Door Sedan, Station Wagon, and 3-Door. 4WD, 5-speed, Dual-Range Rear reduction gear: Final 3.900, *3.700 * = Turbo model So there is a 4WD, Dual-Range 5-speed non-turbo 1987 model that has the 3.900 final drive gear ratio. Turbo's have the 3.700 final drive. Man, my FSM's have been becoming useful.

I think the general idea is that it makes so much torque down low, it destroys the autotranny. That's what I gather from reading. This only makes me want it more. I want my AWD XT6 to be a low rpm torque MONSTER and the FWD XT6 to be a high rpm torque runner. The FWD is rebuilt with a shiftkit, tranny cooler and synth fluid. I'm not concerned with destroying that tranny. The other car though *sigh*, I'm ready to put it's tranny out of it's misery. Gary, Perhaps you can dig more into this and become a Megasquirt/Megajolt distributor/installer. I don't want the headaches involved in installing it. Just tuning it perhaps and reaping the rewards from the results. I barely have enough time to change an air filter because of my work schedule lately. :-\ I do hope this is what you guys meant by we don't want to install it on an autotranny. Or is it just not compatible or something?

I already spoke to WJM about this in a IM (Instant Message) but I plan on dynoing my RX really soon. I'm just trying to get it to pass motor vehicle inspection. As a matter of fact, I was going to go yesterday if it passed, straight from motor vehicle. The first dyno session will be comparing the stock intake (which I believe I have in a box) vs a K&N filter mated to the airflow meter. I basically just want to see what it runs stock but since the car had a filter mounted up to the Maf sensor....... The filter was all rusted out so I stuck a ricer filter on it from my garage. If time permits, I'll get a K&N, otherwise I'll test the ricer vs stock panel filter. Pics will be posted up as well as a dyno chart. I already know what to expect from previous dyno runs by members here but what the hell. I'm curious! Besides, it'll be a baseline for further mods. The car will be dyno'd at Xotic Motorsports in Cochranville, PA. I believe the dyno price went up to $60 or thereabouts. Used to be $50. It's $40 for 3 runs on weekends which are dyno days. http://www.xoticmotorsports.com/ I have a question though. What gear should I dyno in (3rd or 4th)? I believe I read about WJM's and another person's run stating 4th gear is best and closest to that 1:1 gear ratio. However, 4th gear was a huge strain on the cars because the cars are so underpowered that it takes a long time to roll it up to 6500rpm. So, what gear do you guys recommend a 4WD RX should be dyno'd in? Thanks!

So, how did everything go? Did you get to dyno your RX?

Thanks Guys! I'm going to swap horns from one of the other cars.

Wow! I didn't realize the RXs had all those things. No wonder they are heavier than the earlier modelled scoobies.

They always check it here as well as emissions and OBDII computer if it's post 1996. Delaware thinks it's California or something, I dunno. If he wants louder, maybe that's what I should shoot for. Some hellas to scare the 'Hella' out of him and give him a heart attack. Any aftermarket horns that are straight bolt on? Man,I really don't feel like getting into heavy modifications before going through motor vehicle. And yes, the XT6s are louder but I was wondering what you guys thought from the video. I'm devising a plan of attack. I need to get it on the road. The Outback Sport kicked down twice today picking my son up, then I went about stripping the belt tensioner bolt on it trying to tighten a belt up. This is not a good Soob day.

Or Feces? 'Cause if dey see dat brat in da hood, dey wood say, "Dats da shi*"

I ask because my car (1988 RX) didn't pass motor vehicle inspection today for 3 reasons. One of the 3 reasons was because of the horn. My horn isn't loud. It is audible but not loud yet I got failed for it. There wasn't a decibel meter or anything used. Do older modelled subarus normally have a muffled/weakish sounding horn or is there just something wrong with mine? Here is a little movie I made of the horn sounding. It doesn't sound to bad to me. What gives? http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr?i=wNTk5ODI1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D The other two reasons it failed is because of a side marker light (easily fixable) and the fuel tank wasn't holding pressure properly. Guy said something about a hose going to the fuel tank may need replacing or something. *sigh* Any input on this is welcome also. Thanks!

Funnay! Get some pics up of that baby.

First thoughts are fuel filter or bad injector(s). Change the fuel filter first since it's a cheap fix. Getting the fuel injectors clean can be expesive. If you have tuned up your car (spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap), that would eliminate a possible electrical problem (or at least lessen it). Try the fuel filter first though. Seems you aren't getting enough fuel.

Well, on another note, if you are cheap and you picked up a system for cheap, it could save you money in the long run. How! Well, if you are pinging on low grade octane in N/A form, of course your car has a problem. If that problem is carbon deposits on your piston tops, then (from what I've read here and elsewhere) WI would help remove carbon deposits and keep the engine clean. If you ran this for a couple of months or so (using low octane fuel since you can now with WI), you may be able to clean those deposits off, freeing you up to be able to use low octane again instead of going 1 or 2 grades higher in octane because of detonation. That's just a stretch though. I agree with you. Just being objective!

Here is a set of Subaru 1.8ltr turbo injectors. I just took a picture of them only 5 minutes ago. I don't know what year or model Subaru they came off of, just that they are supposed to be 1.8ltr turbo injectors. SubaruTex, I no longer have an Apexi SAFC. It was stolen out of my OBS Impreza in a shop (supposedly broken into ). I would consider getting another though. I remember being unsuccessful getting it configured in an XT6. The Sensor Calc and the Sensor Numb settings where the big issue. Apexi USA nor Apexi Japan could help. I had a guy in a shop (Hiro at Dynamic Motorsports) talk to the guys in Japan in Japanese. They simply said I had to have the XT6 there so they could look at it but could not tell me how to determine what exactly the Sensor Calc and Sensor Numb meant. If I understood those, it would be much easier to install on cars that are not on their list of cars it can be installed on. Once it was installed on the XT6, it ran dangerously lean. And it kept getting leaner the higher in the rpm band it was. I have dyno charts showing the car going from 13.5:1 upwards to 15.0:1 air/fuel ratio and EGTS were soaring past 1600F. I had to keep shutting down early to prevent major engine damage. Damn settings!

Off the top of my head, it cost me between $25-27 per injector (6 injectors on XT6 = around $160 plus shipping). You basically end up with a practically new injector with new o-rings to boot. And you will get a chart showing the before and after cleaning. I think it's worth it, especially if you plan on modifying your car in such a way that it demands more fuel. It's less strain on the injectors since they will be flowing more and not working so hard. I don't know why I haven't mentioned this earlier but I can't assume that the turbo injectors are 185cc. I had a set of Subaru 1.8ltr turbo injectors that I purchased from Ebay a while back for turbocharging an XT6. I remember holding them up to a set of XT6 injectors and finding out it wouldn't fit. Here are XT6 injectors after being cleaned at RC Engineering:

Seems simple enough. Thanks! I thought there was tensioner screw like there is on my XT6s, which you'd screw in and it moves a pulley.....tightening the belts.

I'm willing to bet (I'd probably lose) that the stock 1.8ltr fuel injector's flow is 185cc. I pick this number because that's what my XT6 fuel injectors flow (from testing at RC Engineering). Since the XT6 is basically an EA82 engine with 2 additional cylinders, there would be no reason to change the type fuel injector for use.

Your picture of the head and the gasket itself is worth a thousand words. So thank you.

Not sure that it matters to some here but I didn't see some of this in the specifications section at ultimatesubaru.org. I'm looking at a 1987 FSM and it has all this info in it. I figure since I'm not doing anything right now, that I may as well put this up so people can check it out as a reference in the future. These are all 1987 Modelled cars (4-Door Sedan, Station Wagon and 3-door) curb weights. 4 door Sedan *All 2WD* DL SPFI 5MT: 2195lbs DL SPFI 3AT: 2255lbs GL SPFI 5MT: 2260lbs GL SPFI 3AT: 2295lbs GL-10 SPFI 3AT: 2415lbs GL Turbo MPFI 5MT: 2385lbs GL-10 Turbo MPFI 5MT: 2435lbs GL-10 Turbo MPFI 3AT: 2470lbs Station Wagon *All 2Wd* DL SPFI 5MT: 2330lbs SPFI 5MT: 2300lbs *Puerto Rico Model* DL SPFI 3AT: 2385lbs GL SPFI 5MT: 2395lbs GL SPFI 3AT: 2435lbs GL-10 SPFI 3AT: 2535lbs GL Turbo MPFI 5MT: 2530lbs GL-10 Turbo MPFI 5MT: 2565lbs GL-10 Turbo MPFI 3AT: 2595lbs 3-Door *2WD* DL SPFI 5MT: 2240lbs GL SPFI 5MT: 2320lbs GL SPFI 3AT: 2360lbs GL Turbo MPFI 5MT: 2445lbs 3-Door *4WD* GL SPFI 5MT D/R: 2460lbs GL SPFI 3AT: 2480lbs Full Time 4WD RX Turbo MFPI 5MT D/R: 2640lbs Understand that I could have made a typo somewhere. I'll correct it if I did. I'm using this as a reference as well as other curb weight posts.

Hello SubaruTex, I'm assuming you still have the SAFC. Remember this post---> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6093&page=2&pp=10&highlight=SAFC On page two, I had asked you about the Sensor number and Sensor Calc settings because I never could get it to work on my XT6. Did you ever figure out what those numbers where? If so, perhaps some of us could utilize it on our cars. Thanks! BTW: You did post up this link: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/fcd/diy_fcd.htm So we do have other options. I am curious though as to what the setting are. I have a Hyper SFC in the garage but I've always loved the use of the Apexi units. The new ones have some really nice features.

I know this is basic and elementary to most of you here but I'm not a mechanic. I'm at work right now digging through some FSMs trying to figure this out. I just want to know how to tighten the accessory belts on a 1988 RX. The driver's side accessory belt seems to have a tensioner screw behind it that I tried to tighten clockwise. It reached a point where it just 'pops' and seem to not want to tighten anymore. I can't find where there should be a tensioner screw on the passenger side. My belts squeal like a pig during start-up and driving. They appear to be in good condition but seems that they could be a bit tighter, especially the driver's side belt. Since I'm at work, I can't take a pic right now of the screw I tightened but it's behind the driver's side accessory belt. Can anyone help? Thanks BTW: If you know the part# for the accessory belts, that would help also. I may end up replacing them just because.........