Myxalplyx

Did you know that GM designed the cooling system of the 80's model Subarus? Look here--> http://www.GMcoolingsystems.com Just kidding! My EA82T was reliable. Never did get to crank up the boost. Previous owner took care of it but it rusted to death. Engine ran very strong until the end. I hated the engine compartment though with all the rubber hoses. Seems like anything could go wrong with so many rubber hoses as compared to my XT6. Also Phoenix, I am a long time subaru fan however I respect your opinion and it is valued. More people should listen to what everyone has to say. Even the experienced can learn something. Glad you are a part of this site. Another thing, I owned a Pontiac Grand Prix GTP, brand new in 1994. Car was excellent and I loved it. It even had its own problems but I expected it. I purchased it following Consumer reports data that it would have electrical, trimming and hardware problems. And it did. I owned it for less than 3yrs and sold it 300 miles before my mileage warranty ran out. This was the only car my wife shedded tears that I sold. WTF? She hates my subarus. The EA82T was one of the more likable ones. Onward with the FAQ!!!

This is friggin crazy! Below 32k? Really nice score. Car is nice inside and out. Engine bay looks great.

That's awesome! I am glad it worked out for you. Um...have you logged onto--> http://subaruxt.com/ ?

1) Make sure the car is in tip-top shape before running nitrous, 2) Once in tip-top shape, if you plan on running a dry nitrous setup, send your injectors out to be cleaned and be sure your fuel pump is working properly, 3) If a wet kit, be sure your fuel pump is working properly, 4) Dry - I would not recommend anything over 60hp shot. Wet, I would not recommend anything over 80hp. Start off slowly in any case with a 40-50hp shot. Remember, you'll even with a low jetting, you'll be spraying somewhere around half the hp/tq your car is already making. Just imagine a 230hp WRX spraying 115hp shot into its engine. Take baby steps and be safe. I had planned on running nitrous on my RX turbo just before it kicked the bucket. The plan was to have the first RX turbo in the 13s in the 1/4. It rusted to it never came to be. Inspect your car thoroughly to be sure all parts are running as it should. Then go for it.

I am in love with that Justy. It is just about everything I ever would have wanted in trying to make a Subaru fast and the model I'd choose to do it in. Omg!! I am stoked!

Good luck on whatever you choose Psyko. Can not wait to see what you plan on doing to the XT6.

So Subex!! Are you going to go ahead with this project?

With 15psi, I say he will make between 200-250hp. Depends on his compression. Good luck with the project. Looks nice! I agree, 15psi is not alot. Just need to keep it cool and give it fuel.

Going to check it out now. Cab, If you see this, can you send me your dyno file if you have it? I save everyone's dyno file and compare them to mine and analyze for days/weeks/months (because I have problems). I am talking about the file in .drf format. That is awesome being naturally aspirated and all. My RX turbo dyno'd at about 79hp stock. You are only 8hp off from it. Nice! I just looked over at NASIOC. I did not see any pics over there.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/ea-performance-page/subaru-ea-performance.html "The thermostat is one of the most overlooked performance enhancements. By reducing the operating temperature of the engine a number of things happen. First, volumetric efficiency is increased. That is when the engine runs cooler the air/fuel mixture entering the engine is also cooler. A cooler mixture means the mixture is more dense. The higher the mixture density the more that can be packed into the cylinder. You would be surprised how much more responsive the engine becomes just by changing the thermostat from 195°F to 180°F. The next step would be a 170°F thermostat. 170°F thermostats for the EA series engine are hard to find however almost any 170°F thermostat with a 54mm diameter will work. The little 'jiggler'' valve is not required but its preferable. The valve helps to purge air in the system and allows a slight flow of water around the thermostat to eliminate any temperature differentials between the area around the thermostat and the engine itself. Second, with the combustion clambers running cooler a lower octane fuel can be used. Or if you're looking for better low-end torque, you can advance the ignition timing a few degrees without having to worry about detonation. (Author's note: After installing a 160°F thermostat the performance increase was negligible. However, I was able to advance the ignition liming another 2° and use 87 octane[R + M/2] gasoline with NO detonation at all!)"

Good to see you have gotten a baseline data on your car. Need more info about your car though. What is it's current state of tune (mods)? Still stock? It is turbo right? Thanks for putting up this info. Also, don't forget if your car is turbo, you can get upwards to 35whp just by installing exhaust parts and changing the turbo (Ex: Techworks parts). This is without turning up the boost and keeping your same air/fuel ratio.

So, what are you considering as a swap or retrofit? If you are planning on a 6 cylinder to swap in, I'd say consider the XT6. If 4 cylinder turbo, go with the lighter XT turbo. And what Gary said!

Good pics! Keep the covers off until you can get some new ones. Just try to stay away from going too far off the road, if you do.

OMG!! That sucks!! Literally..

Not sure Gary! This is foreign territory for me.

I was wondering what that cogged piece is myself. Sorry to read about your misfortune. Will stay tuned!

Gary! Me no hijacker...just over-excited that someone else was thinking of doing this. I would like to see him go through with it...or even you. Haven't tried looking for a shop again. Big YES for 4.44 gears in AWD automatic. Yes, going in tranny with modified valve body (or so the shop said anyways). What do you got cooking in your brain Gary? And why are you awake so late? BTW: Just got back up from the basement scavenging for parts. Found these--> Is this all that is needed for a 4.44 swap? If so..Subex..at least you know what you need to do. I'm ready like...yesterday. I provided the little calculation above to give Subex an idea on what he could expect with the swap/upgrade if he were to do it. Also Subex, I have read stories that it would help but am not sure. I would gladly be a guinea pig though. Just hate sitting around wondering how things would be. Life is short. Are you going to go ahead with the swap/upgrade? Don't give up that easy. These 'little' things add up.

I was trying to have this same thing done on my XT6. I have the 4.44 gears for the front and the rear. Was talking to TomsSVX on the SVX board to do the hookup for me since I do not know how. I just need it installed. I a ready to go. I KNOW the car will be faster. Here's what I posted at the XT6 site. *Added for personal reference* Gear ratio torque "What many car enthusiasts don't know, or simply overlook, is that you can get more performance out of the power you already have. Power (more accurately, torque) is never delivered directly from the flywheel to the pavement, without first being multiplied by gear ratios in the transmission and differential. The math is pretty simple: A car with a 4.0:1 gear ratio puts 33% more torque to the wheels than a car with a 3.0:1 gear ratio with no increase in engine torque. "My estimates using above 33%---> 3.70 to 4.11 = 16.5% more torque 3.70 to 4.44 = 23% more torque I am going to keep a close eye on this thread. (Headed to the garage 1:57am in the morning to scavenge the 4.44 parts).

Or try a 4.44 gear swap in an auto (If that is what you have). That's for another thread though. WJM and his ideas.

Brian, That is a beautiful setup. Seems like the car should have came like that from the factory. Would be nice to see someone sell that as a kit. The brackets that stand the intercooler up is sweet.

Not to go to far off topic but maybe this link will convince you to get an intercooler installed (Especially being higher compressioned and all). http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15554&highlight=inlet+temp

Use what the owners manual says to use. If it pings, use the next higher octane. I used 93 octane because I was wuss and didn't want to try and wait to hear ping, detontation, etc on a lower grade octane. Also, I remember that thread that was posted with the inlet temperature of a non-intercooled EA82T. I loved that thread and the numbers. Hot air is not good. I thought of cylinders #1 and #3 overheating and the cooling system problems people have had over the years. I thought of headgaskets going bad and leaking. Using 93 octane gave me a warm, fuzzy feeling inside, even when it was intercooled. Car ran great even though the body went all to hell. Hrrm...I think that is all. :cool:

I wish I could say yes. Must be WJM or someone else here though. My plans were to get the RX in the 13's, in the 1/4 mile. I just wanted to be able to say I was the first to do it.

I am talking either dry or wet. I have only ran a wet system on one of my XT6s once. It made about 40whp or so on the dyno but the power was not smooth. My #3 cylinder had really low compression on it so maybe that was a factor. I just wished I had a chance to use the happy juice on the EA82T. Looking for those who has and their feedback.

Beautiful looking RX. After you fix it all up, get rid of the funky smells and get bored with it, shoot me a PM.