davedave

Thanks. What do you think it would cost to have a muffler shop weld in a new section, or for that matter to cut the pipe, and then insert the flex spring joint you posted above? And would I want to go to an individual repair shop that fixes exhausts rather than a chain place like Midas or Meinike.

Thanks for the replies. The problem area is where #7 and #9 connect in lmdew's diagram. So, that is why I thought there was no donut and spring involved. Do the above answers change based on that location? Here is a picture taken from the rear side of the car (red circle is the problem area). The top of the picture is the rear side. The muffler is not in the picture, but it would be above the top side of the picture after an additional bend toward the rear. The tires you see at the bottom of the picture is the front of the car.

lmdew - you said donut gasket, as did heartless above, but then your last response said thin gasket. So, I'm a bit confused. Pardon my ignorance. Is the rounded collar looking thing (circled in red below) the gasket that is going over the 2 pipes to connect them, and the the two pipes are just straight pipes, or is the rounded piece on the pipes actually part of the pipe itself, and the gasket is just the part between that has the broken gap?

Sorry one more question. You said a donut gasket. The connection I am talking about with these 2 pipes is towards the back of the car. So, the bad connection is not the catalytic converter connection. So, I am thinking it's the thinner gasket, but I must admit it looks kind of thick in the picture.

Thanks. I've only posted a couple times in the past, so I don't know who GD is, or where to find the post. But, I think my main question is: How am I going to separate the 2 pipes that are still attached with the 2 very rusty bolts?

I have a 1999 Subaru Forester. I have an exhaust leak between where 2 exhaust pipes connect. The connection between the 2 pipes is all rusted. I think there is a gasket that would need to be replaced, but I'm not sure what to do to overall as I am not sure if the collar looking piece around both pipes is permanently attached or comes off (I think it's attached). I have attached pictures. If it is attached, then how do I fix this? Thanks.

Rooster2, Thanks again. Now - a few dumb questions. (1) When you put in the Trans-X, do you put it in before or after the regular transmission fluid, or does it not matter since it all gets mixed together? (2) You suggested chaning the fluid 3 times (with some drive time in between). Do you replace the filter on the first of the 3 fluid changes, or on the last flulid change? (3) Since it sounds like the filter is going to be a pain to remove, did you find in the past that changing the filter is a must for fixing the problem. Could I do the fluid changes first, and get to the filter sometime later (like a month later), or do I really need to do the filter change now.

Rooster2, Thanks again for the info. I assume I should get an OEM Transmission filter for my 1999 Forester. Is there any place to buy them other than a dealership to get a true OEM version? I looked around on the Internet, but only found non-OEM.

Gloyale - in regard to your post about wanting to know the real CAUSE of the tranny problem, I'd love to know that, but I'm guessing a transmission shop is going to tell me to replace the transmission (thousands of dollars), or do some kind of repair (which I am guessing will cost me at least $500, and most likely more). So, while I'd love to know the cause, going with a cheap solution is certainly worthwhile, especially for those of us that have older cars. If I knew I could get it fixed for $351 (like in your example), then sure, I'd do that instead. But I am guessing that getting out of a transmission shop for $350 with a real fix is very unlikely.

Rooster2, Thanks for the answer. Yes, my 99 Forester does have a spin on filter. So, I guess you're suggesting to change that as well. What's the best way to ensure not overfilling? Should I try to measure the amount that comes out when I drain it, or do I just add some (3 qts maybe?), see how full it is when warm, and if low, add a little more, and check again until I get to the right spot on the dipstick?

Rooster2, Thanks for starting this great thread! I have the forward engagement problem on my 1999 Subaru Forester L. It takes about 1-2 seconds to move forward after moving the shifter into Drive (sometimes accompanied with a little thump when it engages). So, I am going to try the Trans-X. My questions are: (1) Am I supposed to add 1 quart (32 oz) or just the amount that comes in the smaller bottle (15 oz)? (2) My Forester has 98,000 miles on it. The transmission fluid has never been changed (no need for other posters to tell me it should have been changed every 30K miles or so). So, should I just add the Trans-X and see how that goes or should I actually drain out and replace the ATF fluid as well?