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wagondragon

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Everything posted by wagondragon

  1. wagondragon
    Yeah, i knew i should have done the timing belt... I thought i "trusted" the guy i was buying it from. And he said that it was done recently, along with the timing belt. And also i got some spiel about the transmission computer causing the hard shifts because of sport mode and learning your driving... Honestly i feel like an idiot now. On both counts. definitely got screwed on the car. Now to decide what to do about the transmission. Thought about a coolant flush and checking the solenoids, but if its a bad torque converter or clutch packs im not sure if i want to mess with them. Maybe i just need to find a lower mileage used transmission? Like JDM? Ive never opened up an auto tranny before, and i fear parts would be expensive anyways. Thank you guys for your responses!
  2. wagondragon
    I recently purchased a high mileage 2008 Subaru Outback (200,000 miles) with an automatic transmission. After driving it more, i started experiencing an occasional miss shift. ( only when shifting up into a higher gear would the RPM's climb and then catch hard.) And It always had a hard shift down into 1st gear (or neutral?) only when I'm coming to a stop. This happens almost every time i come to a stop after the car has warmed up, and less often when its cold. I checked the transmission fluid when i bought it, and it didn't seem bad. Ive since done a partial drain and refill of the transmission pan ( about 3-4 quarts worth ) But that didn't seem to help. I also tried adding some Lucas transmission fix ( very thick additive ) Which didn't seem to help, or hurt. A few weeks ago, my wife was driving the car and the timing belt broke, she was unsure if it was the timing belt breaking, or if the car was in the middle of a miss shift. Until the car died a moment later. I have since had the heads done, and have the engine put back together waiting to be put back in the car. But i am superstitious that the transmission might have caused the timing belt to slip, and that im putting all my money and time at risk by re installing the motor into the car with an iffy transmission. Am i crazy? The theory goes like this... Maybe an old tensioner, and a sudden spike in RPM from the transmission failing to find a higher gear, and then a sudden and violent clunk into said gear. May have cause the belt to slip off the sprocket, and ultimately break? As i was putting it back together i noticed there is no timing belt guide above the main crank. ( the manual says that it may not come equipped, or be necessary.) I think im going to put the motor back in, and test drive it more. hoping to find a solution to the odd shifting characteristics. But wanted to know if anyone had ever even heard of a bad transmission being able to break a timing belt before? IF at least to calm my fears. *Forgot to say that the timing belt did not look worn, or dried out in any way before it broke*
  3. wagondragon
    That's what i am figuring, but i was hoping for a more definitive answer?
  4. wagondragon
    Hey, i recently bought a rack and pinion complete kit off of rock auto for my 1985 Subaru GL Wagon. It is a manual steering unit. I'm pretty sure its the wrong part since even with my tie rod ends screwed all the way out they wont reach my wheel hub... Thought everything else seemed fine. After actually READING what i bought it said its for a hatchback... Doh! What is odd is that it says it should fit. Are the tie rod's a different length from the hatchback to the wagon? Can i just buy the correct length tie rods and swap them? I've been looking but haven't found anyone stupid enough to have this issue before... This is what i bought... http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=30875&cc=2000001&jsn=353&jsn=353
  5. wagondragon
    Bad syncro probably, is it a manual or automatic? Autos tend to have that issue ive heard. Never had issues with mine, but switched to a 5 speed anyways. Better mpg... If it is the syncro you will have to split the case and dig into the gears.
  6. wagondragon
    My 3AT was the exact same way... your allot better off with a 5MT... i cruised at just around 3k at 55-65 when i swapped my 3AT for the 5MT... like a dream come true. i get alittle over 31mpg on the highway with that 5MT. Honestly, i cant imagine going back to the that crappy auto...
  7. wagondragon
    How do you get the mixture right for the carb?
  8. wagondragon
    I'm very interested in this... if it works. I would love to see a video of it in action from someone on usmb. How do you get the fuel mixture right? Also doesnt it put a drain on your battery / alternator?
  9. wagondragon
    As the car temp rising so does the pressure in the cooling system with the cap ON. If you let the car rise to normal operating temp and try to take the cap off. it will blast out the top. Dont do that. Let the car sit and cool down while it is OFF, give it a good 10 mins or more. Then take the cap off and turn the car on, let it run to normal running temp and let the Tstat open. Make sure once the Tstat is open you are getting flow, this should be evident when the drivers side radiator hose begins to heat up. And you should begin to see swirling in the radiator with the cap still off. ( make sure your fluid level is the same level or just a tad below the radiator cap filler extension.) That will tell you your pump is working. If you have head gasket issues, like Bird said you will see a steady stream of bubbles coming up. ( small bubbles ) After awhile the fluid will heat up and expand and start flowing out, so at this point either put the cap back on or turn it off so you wont waste fluid. The best home test ive seen is running it on the road, and feeling the fins for dead spots. Or getting a line off your water heater in your home, and running hot water through it. feeling for cold spots, aka blocked passageways.
  10. wagondragon
    It sounds to me like your not having over heating issues at all then? you said that the temp gage doesnt get much higher than the middle? The gurgling sounds like air in your heater core. maybe try lifting the front up or parking on a hill while you run it, and fill to the top? Is the fluid level consistently going down? if you run it and lay under the engine bay is there any drops? Are you getting white smoke? if the answer is no to these i dont think anything is wrong. maybe look into getting a new radiator cap? if your leaking from the overflow reservoir while you drive or while the motor is at temp, that might be a source of your leaking.
  11. wagondragon
    Is it fuel injected? I had a similar problem, turned out to be a bad ECU. But there are loads of things to check before its worth replacing that. Allot of which can be tested with a volt meter. I would think that once the fuel line is pressurized the pump would shut off? I dont know, just thinking out loud. Since it sounds like you have ruled out the fuel pump. I would take the fuel line going to the carb or injectors off, and turn it over. make sure your getting flow, maybe put a pressure tester there to make sure your getting the right pressure. I did that with mine in the engine bay right off the intake, was pretty easy and rules out a few things.
  12. wagondragon
    Have you checked the flatness on your intake and the adapter plate?
  13. wagondragon
    Well, good news is the damage to it isint that bad... my uncle is a machinist and he seems to think after cleaning up some of the surfaces it should still work. Since im not going to be using the high low often if at all, at this point in time. It should only effect the longevity of the part. Which if i dont use it... Wont be an issue. IF its not too much trouble the part number would be great to have to future reference! I asked a local subaru parts department/ dealership about it and they said they dont make them anymore. (assuming we were both on the same page) But it doesnt surprise me that they wouldn't make anymore OEM. Anyways, thanks. Ill take a picture of it before i put it back in. And ill post here what happens. Wish me luck!
  14. wagondragon
    Well, when fiddling with it trying to take it apart i tried shoving it back in. ( i know stupid ) And the synchro for the high low got partially sheered. So now im trying to find a replacement. I got the halves apart now after viewing your walkthrough. I just need to order the parts, and figure out where i can get a synchro.
  15. wagondragon
    Haha, so anyone know where i can get a new synchro?
  16. wagondragon
    Alright, thank you. Has anyone seen the trans manual locally?
  17. wagondragon
    Sorry, I cant find anything with the search sometimes... i googled, and searched here... Could you link me your write up? Also do you know where i could find the manual? I read #2 someplace, but i have no context as to what book series that is...
  18. wagondragon
    So im trying to replace my manual transmission input shaft seal, and after removing the 3 bolts ive been unable to remove the plate. I cant find anything on it in my manual. Its a 5 speed manual dual range trans out of an 87 gl wagon. IVe got it about an inch out, but it doesnt seem to be a plate like i thought before its more of a shaft with an oring... im confused, and since i have no guide to go off of.... i need help!
  19. wagondragon
    Yeah, the kit basically covers all the various options that model could have had, aka TBI or carb, they use different gaskets. If you intend on owning other soobs you might want to hold onto the spares. I recently bought a FI system and needed the gaskets for that. So i saved some money. like grossgary said, whatever you take off should give you all the info you need for what gaskets/seals are supposed to go where. The left overs is trash to some, gold to other like myself... penny pinching car hoarders.
  20. wagondragon
    I wonder if the previous owner fixed the radiator being cracked, as he was talking about in that post. Are you in contact with the previous owner? you might get allot of good info from him. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/71510-ideas-on-swaping-a-weber-carb-on-ea82%C2%B4s/?do=findComment&comment=1027134 This is an excellent write up on webers, you can see what he did with his intake there. But its also just a good read for knowing how your system works, and making sure its all set up correctly.
  21. wagondragon
    So i have an extra EA82 that has about 90k on it, it was running well until the head gasket went. When i took it apart i noticed one of the cylinders had a pitted rust spot about a quarter of an inch square near the end of the piston stroke. I dont remember it smoking, but it probably was to some extent. Would it be worth boring and getting enlarged pistons if i could do the boring myself? I'm currently going to school as a machinist and may have the correct machines to do it at home. But ive read that the EA82 is not worth boring for cost reasons. Has anyone had a bore job done on their EA82? how did it work out for you? Any and all discussion on this topic is welcome and appreciated.
  22. wagondragon
    Go fast around corners? might contribute... i know from personal experience.
  23. wagondragon
    Yeah, MR_Loyale hit it on the head. Been there many times. Just gotta get away from it for awhile.. come back when your refreshed, and head is clear. Spark, Fuel, Air.
  24. wagondragon
    Fixed! It was the ECU all along... damn dirty thing... thankfully there was ONE 87 in my area that was FI. Started right up when i swapped it out. Next to check if all the components i want to swap over to my 85 are good. Thanks for the feedback fellas!
  25. wagondragon
    Forgot to mention its AT, hoping to swap a 5 speed in there from the donor car i recently bought. That should increase my milage significantly
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