peacewize

Got my other rims on there and my studs off today and some factory mud flaps for the front

i too find interest in this topic, been itching to go to a car meeting for a couple months now

finally picked up a d/r trans. Also finally fixed the wheel bearing in the back to. It was getting so loud it was unsettling to drive, ahh silence now

Cool man you finally got one a swapped it. Good job!

I have a blank off for the right side you can have

By beefier I just mean stiffer. I load my car pretty full of people and tools and I don't want to rub when I'm loaded with bigger tires. Seems like I under estimated how much the shocks do.

Thank you that is good info. I am still a bit confused because I thought "strut" referred to the spring and the shocks together. I think I remember someone saying xt sway bars being larger? That is what I'm looking for essentially, "beffier" parts thanks again to everyones help.

Well bare with me since I don't know too much details about suspensions but right now if feels very soft. I get a ton of body roll around corners even at low speeds. As for lift or tires I'm thinking on going to 25-26" tires and I want minimal or preferably no lift. Iv read about toyota coils and Honda springs but am curious how they handle on the streets like that. If possible I want a happy medium between street and off-road use. I want to be able to hit some light trails and mud but this is my dd so nothing crazy

I have an 88 dl 4wd wagon and im looking to upgrade my springs and shocks and I was wondering what the best options for a direct fit replacement. Would a different model/ year have a better suspension that I could order for?

I think it might not look bad with that front end. Try it wouldn't take much to put back to stock

Hi everyone. I have been considering a frienken motor but came accross a pretty good deal on an EJ25 with accessories and everything so I decided for simplicity reasons (and so i can run on cheaper gas) to do a straight EJ25. its out of a 2001 forester. Ive been trying at wits end to figure out what i need as far as wiring goes and i need to do it quickly before they crush my doner car. right now i have the pig tail from the engine to the ecu and where it splits and goes up to the dash it has been cut off. also i cut out the relay box and grabbed any misc. wires under the hood like the battery cables. Some things to note is my dash is as basic as it gets. I dont care about using the stock temp gauge since i want to use a more accurate aftermarket temp/ oil pressure/ voltmeter. also i want to use the EJ 25 alternator but use my A/C compressor and PS pump (or should I use the foresters?). My two main concerns right now are if theres any relays/ plugs in the forester that I didnt get (under the dash?) and will my stock fuel pump be enough? Thanks for any help

Oh yeah I got some sweet seats to for the front. Need to make some brackets for them but Ill post a pic when i get them in

So its been a while since I updated and now everythings different on here (im computer illiterate) but I have not abandoned this project. I recently found a mechanical passenger mirror (harder than i thought) some good shocks for the rear gate and a couple different motors for the rear window washer. Also my gf bought me a sweet CB radio that i mounted in. Last I sold my truck (finally) and picked up an EJ25 (ecu/ harness/ everything) out of an '01 forester that got rolled this winter.

well 350's arent really that big when you look at them in my opinion. but if that can be done maybe step up to a 454. or a 4bt (if you can find one) or the triton v10. something no ones asked but are you going to fit this under the hood? Because if you ditch the hood than your options are fairly limitless if you have the time and effort anythings possible

My apologies if this has already been asked. Currently i run a very underpowered ea82 cover less, so naturally my next step is to ej swap it. This car is my dd so i want to keep it reliable. I know quite a few people have done frankenmotors but the most ive seen posted so far is 10k on one. The other thing is that Im pretty hard on cars, I once jumped a celebrity station wagon over an entire street at 55mph, are these motors ok with some abuse? Price wise its going to cost similar to swap either so I want to know if the hp/tq gains in the frankenmotor are noticeable enough to make it worth it. Also if i do frankenmotor swap which ecu do i use? ive read some say 2.2 and some say 2.5 ecu so im a bit confused.

The only thing I'm jealous of is that since moving back to eastern wa the nearest pap is over an hour and a half away. I miss the days of wondering around the yard for hours swiping good parts. Nice looking car very clean work I love it. Just an idea but what about covering the brake lines with shrink tubing?

So on my way to schmucks yesterday to rent a fuel pressure tester I mashed the gas in a last effort to try and have it do something while accelerating that would give me more insight to my problem but it didn't. It accelerated perfectly, and when I down shifted it was cruising perfectly. No hesitations or hiccups. I pulled over and let it idle for a bit and it ran fine in fact almost better like smoother. Drove all day without a hint of a problem. Randomly I would start it up and let it idle in disbelief as it ran flawlessly. The only logical conclusion I can come up with is something was in the fuel line that finally sucked through. If only I could fix everything like this anyways my real hope is that it won't give me any trouble until I can ej swap it later this year. Don't want to do it in haste because my cars dead.

That's not a green t shaped connection on the drivers firewall by chance is it? I plugged it together and I could hear my pump prime and then a squirt in the engine and then a couple seconds later it would do it again until I started it. I thought it was wierd so I unplugged it and left it how I found it. If so it looks about 99% it's my fpr unfortunately I looked them up and its around $100 for one.

No gas came out but the motor didn't do anything different. Fuel pressure regulator would make sense, if I'm accelerating hard the car acts fine but I can't always be accelerating lol. Is there any definitive ways to check the reg or is the fact it didn't do anything when unplugged sign enough?

Just went out and farted with it some more. Don't see any arcing from the plug wires. Seemed to idle ok until it kicked down. Sprayed everything couldn't find any vac leaks. Exhaust smells rich so it's definitely getting fuel. I just remembered I read these things have problems with the dizzy cap or rotor. I'm gonna investigate that next.

It's spfi not a carb. Fuel filter is fairly new but that doesn't mean there couldn't be water freezing up in there. I unplugged the maf and nothing happened. Maybe dirty/ frozen?. I don'tknow how to check the codes I'll do a little search real quick. As for the intake gaskets I replaced those when I pulled the motor but anythings possible, it's a car after all. Early I went out to start it and I had to pump the gas like my old Chevy or it would just turn over and not fire. All symptoms lead me to wonder if it could be the fuel pump but from my experience when a fuel pump fails it goes all at once. Anyone ever had a fuel pump act like this?

Couple days ago my dl started acting up while driving it would hiccup or sputter randomly. It's been in the 20' s so I thought maybe the gas so I added a bottle of ISO heat on my last fill up but it's gotten worse. Now it's idleing bad, looping. I'm thinking either a sensor or vac line. Checked all vac lines they looked good. Also I think I'm loosing oil through the valve seals. Don't think it's related but Idk. Here's a vid. Any help appreciated thank you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rK1mje4w-XU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Nice, what's it out of?

Surprisingly it didn't snow at night. With all the blankets and padding in the back it was still a pretty quite drive. I'm going to try and fix it this week. Can't wait until the next event

88 dl wagon 187k