Dinky26

Costs me $2 for the place here where I am and that is the only one within 150 miles of me.

See that is what I was thinking also, over on the Forester forum they recommend doing it this way that I posted earlier on here. All I know is that after doing this way I posted earlier, the brakes seem to be working fine now.

And yes I did replace both cylinder seal kits, that's kinda a PITA. Autozone couldn't even get them, or the person didn't know what they were talking about. Oreilys had a set fortunately, chased them all over town cause the one I talked to didn't do as I asked. .so hard to find good help these days. Darn humans anyway.

Bled the system tonight, I'm thinking there is more than one way skin the ELK, cause I saw one yesterday Brakes are good to go now, I used the recommended Subaru way cris cross ending at the furthest from the MC. Thanks for all the input it's greatly appreciated as always.

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/attachments/f68/171369d1409678255-99-forester-squish-brakes-brake-bleeding-squence.jpg

Oh crap. . . So I could be looking at a piston seal overhaul

I am getting conflicting info on the order into which order of bleeding the system IE: passenger front, driver rear,driver front, passenger rear I am guessing Miles you have done it your way on the vintage of car in question here. Many Thanks for all the input guys!!

No they were not that mushy before hand. Do they need to be quick strokes or just kind of slow and steady?

Those look nice. Let us know how they work. I would like something better for my 86 also .

1999 Forester, auto, front disc, rear drum. For my Nephew I replaced the rotors and pads on the front. Replaced the shoes and the gaskets on the wheel cylinder for the rear. Before I had replaced the shoes on the back I had a brain fart I had taken the drums off at this point and started to flush the system, via the method of.. Front passenger Rear driver Front driver rear passenger Doing the front driver side, it sucked the fluid down quicker Dallas, got done there, and then I saw why the rear driver side blew a boot off the the cylinder and spewed fluid all over wow I felt stupid IDIOT...Brain farts I really hate em . So at this point I figured I should replace the shoes. After finishing there I picked up where I left off with the flush and started with the drivers front side, then I thought I better do the rear drivers, did that and then did a couple of pumps from the front again and finished with the passenger rear. After taking it for a test spin and having the pedal go to the floor, I jacked the front up and had my nephew pump the brakes the left seemed to grab okay but the right didn't seem to at all. So I dropped that wheel off and then it seemed to grab okay, put wheel back on and it continued to grab. Then they started to act like they were getting to a firmer state. When he got home he said they were going back to what they were doing when we tested it. . .I probably should have re done the flush all together at this point, except I was fried . With the flushing should I have restarted the whole process? Could this make the brakes extra soft? Or is there something else I should look at?

Just got word from Skankin, "Hey, my sincerest apologies for not getting this out to you way back last month. I was painting a house at the end of july and the owners asked me to work for them in Dutch Harbor, AK. I only had two days to prepare, and had to throw most of my stuff away. I think I may have accidently scrapped the single groove pully. I got it from an early 1980 Automatic 2nd-gen EA-81. So I know it would fit a 1.8L. I want to say that it was the same as the EA-71 front pulley, but I was never able to compare the two. You could find out using a 1980 parts book or calling the dealer and asking them to look it up on the computer for you (they should still have access to the old parts catalog). As for payment, I will refund you the money as soon as possible. Totally my bad man. But on the brighter side, THERE ARE HELLA SUBARUS HERE! -Justin Not exactly what I was wanting to hear, however at least I'll get my money back at some point. I am still thinking I would rather like to have the single groove pulley , So if any one has one laying around give me a PM I'll buy it. Thanks Reply

Did you replace both fuel filters? The one up by the firewall drivers side & the one on the inside rail next to the fuel pump, which is just behind the bed. If you did both of those then you're probably in the market for a Weber. These carbs perform much better than the Crapitachi did or ever would, there are some that beg to differ though. Webers are much easier to adjust and ect. MPGs shouldn't change much. Your top end and start off the line will be the difference though, you will be amazed, or at least I was. I can't speak of the SPFI swap though. Have not been there, I felt like it wasn't worth the trouble, finding a manifold and ect, to get it all set up.

+1 on what was said above. July 19th I sent him payment and nothing yet either. I'm fortunate that I found a like part at another location and got my Brat back to running again. I'm not going to bash on him either, hard to say exactly what he has going on, do what you have said you were going to do and have committed to though. I'm still hoping he will come good on his word.

+1 for having Subaru do it. The techs there will know what they are doing verses Best Buy where they may not know exactly WTH a Subaru is.

+1 for a lot of work to come if you choose to do that swap. An EA turbo would be less work, those turbos are not that reliable though, especially if they have been abused. How much more power do you really need? If you want a major improvement off the line just swap out the carb for a Weber, that will also improve the top end too.

I'll do the same.

I totally understand you have to cover yourself Snatched, can't say I wouldn't do the same in your situation. My situation is a bit different, I am really in no urgent need now, fortunately since I was able to find another pulley, otherwise had I not found one I would probably be singing a different tune. It is a real pain to find parts for these cars these days, especially if there aren't any JYs close that have cars of the like. Yes shipping is also a pain and end pricey. As for the $$ end of it I look at it like, I personally don't have another choice if it's the only one available at the time I'm hoping that whom ever has the part is going to be reasonable on shipping & not shoot themselves in the pocket also. For these are the ideals that I go by when I am shipping something out. I would have to say that everything I have acquired through this board has been reasonable in all aspects even the item I have yet to receive was reasonably priced with shipping. Most of us here have other aspects to our lives aside from Subaru's and their issues, so I totally understand when this board and aspects that come with it have to take a back seat, largely cause I've been there and it totally sucks when that happens. In the end we all have to do what we need to do.

Yes, I most generally prefer to give people the benefit of doubt most of the time. When they say they're going to do something they didn't do the first, into second much less third time I tend to lose my patience. Especially if that item is keeping me off the road. I do however understand things happen, & in my experiences when it rains it POURS & catching a break seems nearly impossible. So I certainly do hope that everything is going to come together for Skankin in the near future.

I am waiting on a crank pulley from him. Paid him a month ago tomorrow. I was able to find another so not a urgent issue now, I would like to have the other one that I paid for though too. Last time he was active on here was the 8th of August. So I would tend to believe that the past weeks/months have been $£¥#{% up.

Ah ha, Car Quest it is next time then.

Many Many THANKS! ! FOR all of the input on this. Got it all back together tonight, Finally. . Made a 1/2 price shake run to Sonic for celebration! I would have probably ended up leaving the spring in there loose.. .. So thanks again. Oh figured a good way to get the bolt torque set, block a couple of wheels and you're good as gold.

How about TIMKEN, their part number is the same as the one listed for the The National Brand on RockAuto.?.

The Michelin look alright here. Don't have any personal experience though. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?customSizeSearch=&performance=ALL&width=175%2F&ratio=70&diameter=13

Yeah, that is kinda of what I was thinking that I would end up trashing it for as much tapping I was doing to get it to this point. I'm guessing that the spring is kind of covered up so it is not real visible. It is a FELPRO seal, so it shouldn't be crap.

For as hard as the new seal is going in, I don't think a spring will make any difference anyway.